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      03-28-2015, 06:46 PM   #1
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Control Arm Bushing Upgrade for XI?

I've been searching everywhere, maybe I'm just blind. I'M looking for a thrust arm/upper control arm/traction strut bushing upgrade for my XI. I've been fighting wheel hop for some time now, replaced the traction struts but the oem bushings are just too soft and there is still movement.

Can anyone help me out and point me in the right direction towards an upgrade? Polyurethane maybe?

Are the M3 bushings the same diameter? I'm lost at this point. I'd hate to have to fill my old traction struts with some aftermarket material, seems like it won't hold up to the abuse.

Any help would be appreciated.
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      04-18-2015, 04:36 PM   #2
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I was wondering the same thing. I hope someone has some answers.
I am weary of polyurethane though. They tend to squeak after a few months but maybe there is no other option, although I think stiffer springs and shocks will help not raise the front as much (less wheel hop) during spirited acceleration.

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      04-20-2015, 10:53 PM   #3
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I ended up ordering up some from strongflex, haven't gotten around to putting them in yet, will report back when I do. But they are polyurethane.
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      05-04-2015, 02:40 AM   #4
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Did you order directly from StrongFlex? I see ECStuning sell their products but nothing for Control Arm bushings. Nor is there an HD Meyel option for the xDrive, am I crazy or just blind? Where can I find them.
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      05-04-2015, 03:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beamzilla View Post
Did you order directly from StrongFlex? I see ECStuning sell their products but nothing for Control Arm bushings. Nor is there an HD Meyel option for the xDrive, am I crazy or just blind? Where can I find them.
Same here. I'm waiting for someone else to chime in.
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      05-07-2015, 06:31 PM   #6
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have strongflex LCA

I have a 2008 335xi 6spd manual. So I first changed my broken stock lower control arm bushings with new stock ones. Was not happy with how mushy they are. SO I did order the red strongflex. They took over a month to get to CA from Poland.. I installed them they are an improvement. Steering is tighter.

But I think I would have tried the next level of hardness.. Forget the color.

One thing I just found as a big improvement to steering is to check or tighten the preload on the steering rack.

My on center steering feel felt very loose. Some of this is in the actual lower steering linkage. But once I tightened this up it was a nice improvement.

You have to drop the front plastic splash shield. I was able to get a 17mm short socket on it with a 7" extension with a Universal joint.

Its a bear to get it on the nut. Its not that easy to unbolt the rack to lift up so if your patient you can get a socket on there without loosening the rack.

To adjust turn clockwise. Dont go crazy. You only probably need to go about 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. Keep turning the wheel to see how much resistance it takes to turn. It should come back to center a little. It wont do it that much till your driving and the wheels are back on the car (you need to take off to see the adjustment nut).

Also inspect your lower steering linkage (the rod that goes from fire wall to rack) They are known for getting a lot of play in them. I plan to change mine. Its way better since I increased preload on rack but another part that you should not have to change on a car this $$ and under 100k miles.. I think they run around $200
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      05-07-2015, 06:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSRxi View Post
I have a 2008 335xi 6spd manual. So I first changed my broken stock lower control arm bushings with new stock ones. Was not happy with how mushy they are. SO I did order the red strongflex. They took over a month to get to CA from Poland.. I installed them they are an improvement. Steering is tighter.

But I think I would have tried the next level of hardness.. Forget the color.

One thing I just found as a big improvement to steering is to check or tighten the preload on the steering rack.

My on center steering feel felt very loose. Some of this is in the actual lower steering linkage. But once I tightened this up it was a nice improvement.

You have to drop the front plastic splash shield. I was able to get a 17mm short socket on it with a 7" extension with a Universal joint.

Its a bear to get it on the nut. Its not that easy to unbolt the rack to lift up so if your patient you can get a socket on there without loosening the rack.

To adjust turn clockwise. Dont go crazy. You only probably need to go about 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. Keep turning the wheel to see how much resistance it takes to turn. It should come back to center a little. It wont do it that much till your driving and the wheels are back on the car (you need to take off to see the adjustment nut).

Also inspect your lower steering linkage (the rod that goes from fire wall to rack) They are known for getting a lot of play in them. I plan to change mine. Its way better since I increased preload on rack but another part that you should not have to change on a car this $$ and under 100k miles.. I think they run around $200
I actually just did the same thing, hoping that it would cure my steering looseness at center. It did not, but it did make the steering quite a bit heavier, which is nice.
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      05-07-2015, 08:01 PM   #8
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lower steering linkage

I am going to bet a lot that it will go away if you change your lower steering linkage. I plan to do mine also.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidewinderpb View Post
I actually just did the same thing, hoping that it would cure my steering looseness at center. It did not, but it did make the steering quite a bit heavier, which is nice.
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      05-07-2015, 08:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSRxi View Post
I am going to bet a lot that it will go away if you change your lower steering linkage. I plan to do mine also.
Are you referring to the steering shaft with the u-joint? I'm not too familiar with the assembly.
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      05-08-2015, 12:05 AM   #10
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lower steering linkage

yes the part that goes from the firewall to the rack. Mine has some play on the lower joint. I have also heard that linkage from the steering wheel to the firewall can have play. Most of them are the lower linkage under the hood. I looked it up about $200. There are people selling them on ebay but I think thats a risk unless you can confirm it has no play in it
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      05-08-2015, 02:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSRxi View Post
I have a 2008 335xi 6spd manual. So I first changed my broken stock lower control arm bushings with new stock ones. Was not happy with how mushy they are. SO I did order the red strongflex. They took over a month to get to CA from Poland.. I installed them they are an improvement. Steering is tighter.

But I think I would have tried the next level of hardness.. Forget the color.

One thing I just found as a big improvement to steering is to check or tighten the preload on the steering rack.

My on center steering feel felt very loose. Some of this is in the actual lower steering linkage. But once I tightened this up it was a nice improvement.

You have to drop the front plastic splash shield. I was able to get a 17mm short socket on it with a 7" extension with a Universal joint.

Its a bear to get it on the nut. Its not that easy to unbolt the rack to lift up so if your patient you can get a socket on there without loosening the rack.

To adjust turn clockwise. Dont go crazy. You only probably need to go about 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. Keep turning the wheel to see how much resistance it takes to turn. It should come back to center a little. It wont do it that much till your driving and the wheels are back on the car (you need to take off to see the adjustment nut).

Also inspect your lower steering linkage (the rod that goes from fire wall to rack) They are known for getting a lot of play in them. I plan to change mine. Its way better since I increased preload on rack but another part that you should not have to change on a car this $$ and under 100k miles.. I think they run around $200
Thanks for the guide brah, I'm gonna check this out soon!
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      05-08-2015, 09:01 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSRxi View Post
yes the part that goes from the firewall to the rack. Mine has some play on the lower joint. I have also heard that linkage from the steering wheel to the firewall can have play. Most of them are the lower linkage under the hood. I looked it up about $200. There are people selling them on ebay but I think thats a risk unless you can confirm it has no play in it
Yeah mine had some play and an audible clunk, so I had it replaced under warranty. And I actually had it replaced again last week because the dealer had installed a faulty one which began to clunk even worse than the first one. Did not resolve the wiggle.
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      05-10-2015, 08:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSRxi
I have a 2008 335xi 6spd manual. So I first changed my broken stock lower control arm bushings with new stock ones. Was not happy with how mushy they are. SO I did order the red strongflex. They took over a month to get to CA from Poland.. I installed them they are an improvement. Steering is tighter.

But I think I would have tried the next level of hardness.. Forget the color.

One thing I just found as a big improvement to steering is to check or tighten the preload on the steering rack.

My on center steering feel felt very loose. Some of this is in the actual lower steering linkage. But once I tightened this up it was a nice improvement.

You have to drop the front plastic splash shield. I was able to get a 17mm short socket on it with a 7" extension with a Universal joint.

Its a bear to get it on the nut. Its not that easy to unbolt the rack to lift up so if your patient you can get a socket on there without loosening the rack.

To adjust turn clockwise. Dont go crazy. You only probably need to go about 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. Keep turning the wheel to see how much resistance it takes to turn. It should come back to center a little. It wont do it that much till your driving and the wheels are back on the car (you need to take off to see the adjustment nut).

Also inspect your lower steering linkage (the rod that goes from fire wall to rack) They are known for getting a lot of play in them. I plan to change mine. Its way better since I increased preload on rack but another part that you should not have to change on a car this $$ and under 100k miles.. I think they run around $200
Can you post pics of the adjustment nut you tightened please ?
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      05-10-2015, 08:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSRxi
I have a 2008 335xi 6spd manual. So I first changed my broken stock lower control arm bushings with new stock ones. Was not happy with how mushy they are. SO I did order the red strongflex. They took over a month to get to CA from Poland.. I installed them they are an improvement. Steering is tighter.

But I think I would have tried the next level of hardness.. Forget the color.

One thing I just found as a big improvement to steering is to check or tighten the preload on the steering rack.

My on center steering feel felt very loose. Some of this is in the actual lower steering linkage. But once I tightened this up it was a nice improvement.

You have to drop the front plastic splash shield. I was able to get a 17mm short socket on it with a 7" extension with a Universal joint.

Its a bear to get it on the nut. Its not that easy to unbolt the rack to lift up so if your patient you can get a socket on there without loosening the rack.

To adjust turn clockwise. Dont go crazy. You only probably need to go about 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. Keep turning the wheel to see how much resistance it takes to turn. It should come back to center a little. It wont do it that much till your driving and the wheels are back on the car (you need to take off to see the adjustment nut).

Also inspect your lower steering linkage (the rod that goes from fire wall to rack) They are known for getting a lot of play in them. I plan to change mine. Its way better since I increased preload on rack but another part that you should not have to change on a car this $$ and under 100k miles.. I think they run around $200
You mean these
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      05-10-2015, 09:43 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian2485 View Post
Can you post pics of the adjustment nut you tightened please ?
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      05-10-2015, 05:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidewinderpb
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian2485 View Post
Can you post pics of the adjustment nut you tightened please ?
Thank you
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      05-29-2015, 10:03 PM   #17
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Sorry Fellas, Been busy.

I ordered directly from strongflex, the ones that Julian posted. I had to cut them in half to install them, and got the stock bushings pressed out by a local shop. They're noticeably harder than stock, and they're not quiet either. You will get a popping noise when they flex around a bit. I feel the road a bit more but its amazing how tight the car feels under braking, no more loose feeling or random pulling under braking.

However soon after installing these bushings my trans started slipping so I haven't been able to do any WOT pulls to see if it fixed the wheel hop.
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      05-30-2015, 01:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sikh335xi
Sorry Fellas, Been busy.

I ordered directly from strongflex, the ones that Julian posted. I had to cut them in half to install them, and got the stock bushings pressed out by a local shop. They're noticeably harder than stock, and they're not quiet either. You will get a popping noise when they flex around a bit. I feel the road a bit more but its amazing how tight the car feels under braking, no more loose feeling or random pulling under braking.

However soon after installing these bushings my trans started slipping so I haven't been able to do any WOT pulls to see if it fixed the wheel hop.
Did you grease them as stated from the site and why did you have to cut them in half I want to Order them and install but wouldn't want to hear any annoying popping noise all the time. How long did it take for it to be shipped to you and where are you located? How much did they cost you ?
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      05-31-2015, 02:25 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian2485 View Post
Did you grease them as stated from the site and why did you have to cut them in half I want to Order them and install but wouldn't want to hear any annoying popping noise all the time. How long did it take for it to be shipped to you and where are you located? How much did they cost you ?
I ordered these because I was told at 40k my control arm bushing is shot. My car would vibrate like crazy while driving and braking. Figured they were done, I put on a new set of wheels and all my vibration went away. So my old wheels were fucked up I guess. I am at 57k now.

Anyway I have these sitting in my house now. It took about two weeks to get them the total cost was $75 shipped. I am going to have my friend throw them in but after hearing the review from sikh335i about having to cut and the popping noise I might hold off.

Anyone else got any reviews?
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      05-31-2015, 10:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montegokid94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian2485 View Post
Did you grease them as stated from the site and why did you have to cut them in half I want to Order them and install but wouldn't want to hear any annoying popping noise all the time. How long did it take for it to be shipped to you and where are you located? How much did they cost you ?
I ordered these because I was told at 40k my control arm bushing is shot. My car would vibrate like crazy while driving and braking. Figured they were done, I put on a new set of wheels and all my vibration went away. So my old wheels were fucked up I guess. I am at 57k now.

Anyway I have these sitting in my house now. It took about two weeks to get them the total cost was $75 shipped. I am going to have my friend throw them in but after hearing the review from sikh335i about having to cut and the popping noise I might hold off.

Anyone else got any reviews?
I'm weary about the whole cutting in half thing I thought they would just press into the control arm with a machine press. Found another thread where someone put these on his xdrive he said when he grease the heck out of them and it doesn't squeak at all
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      05-31-2015, 01:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sikh335xi View Post
Sorry Fellas, Been busy.

I ordered directly from strongflex, the ones that Julian posted. I had to cut them in half to install them, and got the stock bushings pressed out by a local shop. They're noticeably harder than stock, and they're not quiet either. You will get a popping noise when they flex around a bit. I feel the road a bit more but its amazing how tight the car feels under braking, no more loose feeling or random pulling under braking.

However soon after installing these bushings my trans started slipping so I haven't been able to do any WOT pulls to see if it fixed the wheel hop.
Yup, the first thing you feel is the improvement in breaking and compliance (the car will stay straight under hard braking) because the arms are not moving hardly at all, and when they don't move they keep everythng tight and less strain on your brakes and other suspension componenets too. I only speak from having had many poly bushings in my other cars over the last 15 years. You should not be getting a popping noise though. I 've never had that. "noise" from poly bushings yes, but popping? Not sure about that one.. Did you try to contact the manufacturer to see if it's normal?

Harry
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      05-31-2015, 06:45 PM   #22
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There's no need to cut these in half when installing. You can press the old ones out and press these in in one piece. For noise....did you use the grease and did you tighten the bolts at loaded ride height? I have the red strongflex poly bushings and they are silent.
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