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      03-28-2012, 01:06 PM   #23
MrQuickR1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kolyan2k View Post
so its a vert ? you are complaining that AUTO + Vert is not responsive ? You do know that vert is extra 465lbs...thats 3900lbs car + your ass combined with GM tranny on N52 engine w/230hp and 200lbs.tq. You should be happy it moves at all.
LOL yea when ya put it that way, I am surprised lol.
But my mistake, it's not a vert. I meant the sunroof...it's my first ever vehicle with a sunroof. Used to trucks and stuff without them.
I know the old "you should have gotten a 330/335" That really doesn't resolve the issue at hand. I'm actually looking at 335's since the 28 is such a slug.

So it seems what I gather here is,
the adaption reset will not really work.
Airbox mod is a very slim difference.
PBX could possibly be defected.
I should have gotten a 335.
Spark plugs should be changed out.
Active autowerke stage 2 flash tune with simon tool.

I guess this is all necessary to do on a vehicle already at $40k new.
Is it so hard to do it right the first time without having to modify things?
I will continue to google and take everyone's advice here, yesterday had really upset me cause it was so bad going home that it made not even want to drive it anymore. I was more mad at myself for pulling the trigger without doing my extensive research I normally do.
Thank you guys, all of your comments are really helpful, even the smart ass ones, makes me laugh at least lol.
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      03-28-2012, 01:19 PM   #24
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^ here is another advice. i've done this before.....

Since you really dont know if this is your car and if its malfunctioning. I suggest test driving a similar car and see if its any different from yours. This way at least you know if its 328 that you are not happy with or something else going on. Just take a different car to the dealership where you do the test drive
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      03-28-2012, 01:21 PM   #25
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These are the kinda stories that are scaring me while I look at used 335's / 328's the maintenance nightmares my old german car brought along with it. ( it was a vw not apples to apples )
I love the driving dynamics and just hope I dont encounter any major issues. My Infinity im selling has had 0 probs in 4 years and 40k miles warranty claims are pretty non existent with them.

Best of luck, What dealer are you working with? Im also in NJ also hopefully the dealer takes care of you. 328's appear to be more reliable than 335's maybe besides the transmission issue your having.
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      03-28-2012, 01:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QUiKSR20 View Post
These are the kinda stories that are scaring me while I look at used 335's / 328's the maintenance nightmares my old german car brought along with it. ( it was a vw not apples to apples )
I love the driving dynamics and just hope I dont encounter any major issues. My Infinity im selling has had 0 probs in 4 years and 40k miles warranty claims are pretty non existent with them.

Best of luck, What dealer are you working with? Im also in NJ also hopefully the dealer takes care of you. 328's appear to be more reliable than 335's maybe besides the transmission issue your having.
I bought mine from lester Glenn in toms River, yes, not a BMW dealer, it was on a trade in. My advice to you if you are concerned that much, look at the 335's first. There are so many 28's for sale and I am beginning to realize why.
Also, Kolyan, good advice, i was even thinking about taking it to a dealer and ask if they can quickly drive it and tell me if it's worth diagnosing or if it seems somewhat normal, but I am sure they wont do that for free as well. So I have to prepare myself with a knot of bills in hand before I roll into the dealer. also finding a good one is not easy either. As we have Paul Miller in Wayne, NJ, their prices are through the roof compared to the next BMW dealer. Also not as helpful, I hung up on 2 different occasions when calling.
Quik, I don't mean to bash BMW, the car itself is so nice, the drive, the stereo system, etc... I just can't accept dealing with this issue on the throttle lag, it's dangerous and ridiculous...
I contacted BMS, I will await what they think if my symptoms sound like a bad box or not.

EDIT: this is the nice response I get back from BMS....
Perhaps I should do the AA Tune and smash the pbx on the ground and ship it back to them and ask them to kindly shove it up their ass!

Hi Billy,

MB does buy from us in bulk.

RE: The throttle it should not be changing maps on its own. You can do
a side by side comparison of map 0 vs. map 3 for example to get a
feeling for the differences with the PBX. It's the best at what it
does so if you are not happy with the throttle on PBX map 3 it might
be time to move up to a 335..

Best,
T

Last edited by MrQuickR1; 03-28-2012 at 01:59 PM.
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      03-28-2012, 02:52 PM   #27
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I'd take the suggestion above and go to a dealer and see if there are any e9x 328i's left on the lot that you can test drive and see if the problem is specific to your car. In my experience, the 328i throttle response felt better than the 325i's (both autos). I'm not talking about power, just the response of the pedal.

But after the 325i got the BMS power box, it felt WAY better than before, and much better than the 328i. It made it feel like it had a real cable controlling the throttle, as in very small changes in your right foot actually did something.

Anyway, yes the AA tune will definitely help, as they remap the throttle and get you real hp gains, but if you have a pre-existing issue, it may not cure it.
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      03-28-2012, 05:55 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrQuickR1 View Post
I know the old "you should have gotten a 330/335" That really doesn't resolve the issue at hand. I'm actually looking at 335's since the 28 is such a slug.
Cheaper and bulletproof way to solve it without going for 330 or 335 is ... manual transmission. Stop throwing your money away and accept the only solution available - even if you don't like it. Going for other more "likable" solutions will
a) not solve your problem
b) cost you way more than swapping your car for one with MT
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      03-28-2012, 06:32 PM   #29
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I have the same car as you do. Here are a couple things to try...

You should be able to reset the adaptive transmission yourself. Make sure the car is off and put your key in the ignition. Without hitting the brake pedal press the start button twice to turn the ignition on without starting the engine. Press your gas pedal all the way down for at least 25 seconds. Let off the gas, hold the brake, and start the engine. You should find the shifting to be more responsive.

Now the second suggestion involves a bit of investment. Both Active Autowerke and Eurocharged offer tunes for your car whereby they replace some of the programming controlling the engine. I have the Active Autowerke tune installed on my car. Stage 2 refers to their second version of the tune that also takes advantage of the valvetronic system to increase valve lift to let the engine breathe better at higher rpms. AA also advances timing and likely adjusts fuel curves among some other improvements. I don't have any experience with Eurocharged but their tune is a little cheaper. Active has a good reputation here. Either will require you to run premium fuel all the time to support the advanced timing.

The PBX that you referred to does add some horsepower, but from reading here, the amounts seem negligible. What it also does is adjust the responsiveness of the accelerator. For example if you push it a quarter of the way down, the PBX may tell the computer that it's at the halfway position. You could effectively simulate this by just pressing the accelerator further and faster than you normally would.

You can check out the NA engine mod thread concerning the available tunes. Active Autowerke (AA) has a large thread with several pages of posts on it.

AA can upload their tune to your car several ways. The cheapest route is to just pay for the tune and ship your computer module to them. They have instructions on removing it and your car will be down until they ship it back to you and you reinstall it in your car.

Alternatively, they have distributors around the country that can upload the tune through your OBDII port in a few hours.

That said, you may not have one of these near you. So, AA also offers the simon programmer. It costs $350 in addition to the tune but has several advantages. It's a hand held device that plugs into your OBD II port. You download the associated software to your computer and update the device. You then use it to download your car's stock tune in about 50 minutes via the aforementioned OBD II port. Download that file to your computer and e-mail it to AA. AA will send you your tune quickly. Sometimes in as little as an hour. You upload the tune to the device, plug it into your car, and then upload it through OBDII. You also need to buy a battery tender ($30-50) to make sure the battery doesn't run down during the process. I did this and promptly returned it afterwards.

Advantages of Simon are being able to update your car yourself no matter where you are, very little downtime, and being able to reflash the software if BMW ever updates your car wiping our your tune. Simon will also allow you to revert to your stock tune if you wish. I've asked for my stock file in case my wife or I ever mistakenly fill up with 87 octane.

So, my impressions with AA being in my car for about a month are very good. It improved overall driveability and added more power. The throttle lag is about 90% gone. The transmission is still a little slow to downshift, but I think BMW programmed it that way to increase milage. Sport mode is also improved with more power. There is a significant increase above 4,000 rpm, but low end torque is also noticeably improved. The feeling that you get at 2,700 rpm is available at 2,000 rpm with AA.

The tune will cost money. Try resetting the transmission using the procedure I described and see if that gets it to where you want it. In the end, it's all about expectations. If you want your car to be grossly overpowered try a 335i. I find my car is now plenty entertaining with the AA tune. That's coming from the previous owner of a couple of Z28's with 300+ horsepower.

Last edited by Wrngway; 03-28-2012 at 06:37 PM.
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      03-29-2012, 12:35 PM   #30
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Wrngway, thank you for taking the time to respond in such detail. I did try the "reset the adaptive transmission" thing but it only lasted a day or two. I read somewhere also it isn't really an adaption reset, it just does something along the lines as putting it in DS mode or something like that.
If I were to try that again, the question would be, would it screw up my bms map? I was so happy the day I read about resetting the trans, it worked and was running nice, but that was short lived.
I am going to try to weigh out my options, I am curious about the AFE drop in filter and remove the fixed carbon filter (secondary) in the airbox. It's weird, today it seemed to drive a lot better, like it has a mind of it's own.
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      03-29-2012, 01:18 PM   #31
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The PBX might add hp but even if it did it would only do that WOT, other than that it would just make it seem as if you're pressing the pedal harder. Also eventually the car will adjust to the powerbox inputs. The AA stage 2 tune actually tunes the engine to produce more power smoothly throughout the rev range, you'll feel a lot more pick up with it. You dont' need to buy the simon tool to save money, just get it flashed at a nearby active dealer. you will like it for sure. You can sell the PBX to offset the tune costs
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      03-29-2012, 03:32 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cultr3 View Post
The PBX might add hp but even if it did it would only do that WOT, other than that it would just make it seem as if you're pressing the pedal harder. Also eventually the car will adjust to the powerbox inputs. The AA stage 2 tune actually tunes the engine to produce more power smoothly throughout the rev range, you'll feel a lot more pick up with it. You dont' need to buy the simon tool to save money, just get it flashed at a nearby active dealer. you will like it for sure. You can sell the PBX to offset the tune costs
I'm beginning to lean towards just what you said. the pbx to me is a gimmick and it was rushed to the public to make money. Their customer service is garbage as well as you can see how they respond to my simple question if it could be defected. They say get a 335, asses!
Philly isn't too far from me to get the AA, it would be worth the trip unless I find something closer in or around NJ.
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      03-29-2012, 03:56 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrngway View Post
You should be able to reset the adaptive transmission yourself. Make sure the car is off and put your key in the ignition. Without hitting the brake pedal press the start button twice to turn the ignition on without starting the engine. Press your gas pedal all the way down for at least 25 seconds. Let off the gas, hold the brake, and start the engine. You should find the shifting to be more responsive.
My guess is the previous owner drove like a granny and the transmission adapted to their driving style. Doing the reset above should give the adaptive transmission a "fresh start" and it should start adapting to your driving style. I think I saw a post from you after trying this saying that it felt better, so maybe its working....also after doing this, don't forget to set the pbx to map 3 again.
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      03-30-2012, 01:20 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlivaresAnthony View Post
My guess is the previous owner drove like a granny and the transmission adapted to their driving style. Doing the reset above should give the adaptive transmission a "fresh start" and it should start adapting to your driving style. I think I saw a post from you after trying this saying that it felt better, so maybe its working....also after doing this, don't forget to set the pbx to map 3 again.
Yes I did say it made a difference, I was so happy that night, I was all proud saying it's fixed. But it faded away.
I'll try it again, what the hell, can't hurt.
I was talking to a guy I work with who has the 335i, he too feels slight delay on his but says you get used to it, but we're talking different tranny and all plus 390hp car vs my little 230hp. I'm going to keep seeing what can be done, if it gets worse or I don't adapt to it, I will have to start looking for the 335 down the road. Not that I have all this money to throw away but if I am not happy, why waste time.
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      03-30-2012, 03:00 PM   #35
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BMS just increases the signal for throttle, not make it faster. The Steps in 328s suck, 335 have much better ATs but only way to buy a 3 series is in a manual
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      03-30-2012, 03:48 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndog14 View Post
BMS just increases the signal for throttle, not make it faster. The Steps in 328s suck, 335 have much better ATs but only way to buy a 3 series is in a manual
Sorry to threadjack but what is this charcoal filter you guys keep talking about? How restrictive is it? And is there any reason to keep it? Thanks.
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      03-30-2012, 05:54 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedB View Post
Sorry to threadjack but what is this charcoal filter you guys keep talking about? How restrictive is it? And is there any reason to keep it? Thanks.
The reason to keep it in is to comply with environmental rules. Such rules didn't exist in the EU as evident by the fact that the EURO-spec air intake does not have the filter.

In my case, instead of cutting it out, which could give a picky dealer reasons to refuse warranty repair on "related" systems, I just bought the euro intake and swapped it out. The euro air intake fits in the exact same place as the US one, and uses a cone filter. The most noticeable difference is that the whole intake does not have to come out to change the air filter like the US one, you just pop off the lid and replace the filter. Some people say it has better flow and sound, but I have no solid data other than gut feeling
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      03-30-2012, 07:47 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrQuickR1 View Post
Yes I did say it made a difference, I was so happy that night, I was all proud saying it's fixed. But it faded away.
I'll try it again, what the hell, can't hurt.
I was talking to a guy I work with who has the 335i, he too feels slight delay on his but says you get used to it, but we're talking different tranny and all plus 390hp car vs my little 230hp. I'm going to keep seeing what can be done, if it gets worse or I don't adapt to it, I will have to start looking for the 335 down the road. Not that I have all this money to throw away but if I am not happy, why waste time.
Honestly, I've heard people complain about the lag before but not as bad as you...maybe there's something wrong with your car? My 325 doesn't feel bad at all and my wife's 335 feels like a beast.

What octane fuel are you using? It's also possible that the previous owners of your car only used regular on it or that you are doing so as well. I would imagine that a lower quality fuel would make the car run sluggish.
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      03-31-2012, 02:14 AM   #39
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Check MAF
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      03-31-2012, 06:34 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beneliezer View Post
Check MAF
I use ONLY premium gas.
Since I have had it, I fill it with Shell V Power, I have used techron FI cleaner, made a difference but can't put a bottle in at fill up every time.

ben.... "MAF"
This is very interesting you bring this up. What made you think of the maf? similar issue?
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      03-31-2012, 09:30 AM   #41
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I have been searching like crazy, it's consuming so much time.
The bad thing is, it could be so many things.

Would bad ignition coils and spark plugs be a culprit?
Air flow restrictions?
Exhaust restrictions?
Electronic throttle body?
Dirty/damaged/degrading MAF sensor?

Apples and oranges here but I had a thought too, on my older sport bikes, it has an exup valve...a small butterfly in the exhaust that is open 1/4 at idle for noise pollution, it opens the more throttle you give it. On my sons GSXR I removed the motor and cables leaving it open as far open as it could be. It helped smoothen things out. Same as for my 06 R1, My 09 doesn't have that valve. It's useless and restrictive as the same as the airbox restriction on the 09 for noise pollution.
Euro models do not have these restrictions.
After my mods on the bikes, it is night and day better.
So my thoughts were, do we have restrictions on the exhaust? I don't know as of yet.
I'm thinking maybe try plugs first, then maybe coils?
This shit is adding up already in my head, shouldn't have to be this way.

Also I made another post last week about stumbling noise when starting the car, just as it turns over it's like a clunk/stumble sound for a fraction of a second before it turns over. Could this be a sign of a problem? Some say it's normal but it's quite disturbing and noticeable.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667042
Damn, sorry for sounding crazy but this is making me crazy lol.
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      03-31-2012, 11:40 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SERI335 View Post
Sorry to hear that. I don't have a fix to your problem, but what you should've done is drive a 335 instead. I'm two months in as well and not regretting it at all!
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      03-31-2012, 11:49 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrQuickR1 View Post
I have been searching like crazy, it's consuming so much time.
The bad thing is, it could be so many things.

Would bad ignition coils and spark plugs be a culprit?
Air flow restrictions?
Exhaust restrictions?
Electronic throttle body?
Dirty/damaged/degrading MAF sensor?

Apples and oranges here but I had a thought too, on my older sport bikes, it has an exup valve...a small butterfly in the exhaust that is open 1/4 at idle for noise pollution, it opens the more throttle you give it. On my sons GSXR I removed the motor and cables leaving it open as far open as it could be. It helped smoothen things out. Same as for my 06 R1, My 09 doesn't have that valve. It's useless and restrictive as the same as the airbox restriction on the 09 for noise pollution.
Euro models do not have these restrictions.
After my mods on the bikes, it is night and day better.
So my thoughts were, do we have restrictions on the exhaust? I don't know as of yet.
I'm thinking maybe try plugs first, then maybe coils?
This shit is adding up already in my head, shouldn't have to be this way.

Also I made another post last week about stumbling noise when starting the car, just as it turns over it's like a clunk/stumble sound for a fraction of a second before it turns over. Could this be a sign of a problem? Some say it's normal but it's quite disturbing and noticeable.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667042
Damn, sorry for sounding crazy but this is making me crazy lol.
If the MAF sensor is dirty then the engine may not be getting the correct fuel to air ratio, that could be a reason, usually you observe low fuel mileage with this. It only cost like 7 dollars for a can of cleaner, so you might as well try it. Next cheap and quick thing to try is sell the pbx to offset the cost of the aa tune, as if you can't fix the car you'll have to remove it anyway. If these two steps still doesn't fix your problem you probably have bigger problems that might not be worth hunting down and should trade in (either the car needs bigger repairs, or you won't ever be happy with a NA i6). I can honestly tell you that even in my de-tuned 328i (I have the low compression n51 engine), the aa tune made it very responsive, kind of like being in DS without the jerky roughness.

Another idea is to test another 328i at a dealer of the similar age and miles as your car, so you can compare, if they're all bad, then trade in, but if only some of them or none of them, then you might've gotten a lemon
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      03-31-2012, 03:04 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMCU View Post
If the MAF sensor is dirty then the engine may not be getting the correct fuel to air ratio, that could be a reason, usually you observe low fuel mileage with this. It only cost like 7 dollars for a can of cleaner, so you might as well try it. Next cheap and quick thing to try is sell the pbx to offset the cost of the aa tune, as if you can't fix the car you'll have to remove it anyway. If these two steps still doesn't fix your problem you probably have bigger problems that might not be worth hunting down and should trade in (either the car needs bigger repairs, or you won't ever be happy with a NA i6). I can honestly tell you that even in my de-tuned 328i (I have the low compression n51 engine), the aa tune made it very responsive, kind of like being in DS without the jerky roughness.

Another idea is to test another 328i at a dealer of the similar age and miles as your car, so you can compare, if they're all bad, then trade in, but if only some of them or none of them, then you might've gotten a lemon
I did spray some MAF cleaner on the MAF last week, made no difference. If it is the MAF, it could just be slowly on the way out. You're right though, everytime I drive it, I feel like I got it up the keester with no lube.
I'm liking the sound of the AA tune, this pbx is such a pos.
By the time I am done hunting down these things and replacing or cleaning, and it still isn't the remedy, It's going cliff diving lol
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