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      06-03-2015, 09:23 PM   #1
mightbaal
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What kind of oil do you guys use? 2008 335xi

I bought my car about 2 weeks ago the dealer says they did an oil change but who knows what type of oil is even in it. I have a bumper to bumper for 48k/48 mo so I have to follow factory recommendations. I know alot of the fluids in the car state lifetime fluids which is odd imo. But oil says every 15k? That seems way to many miles I have always done 3-5k on my cars with full synthetic. I would like to take it somewhere so I have proper receipts in the event of a failure but the BMW dealership is literally 1 hour away. Also any recommendations on coolant flush intervals transmission flushes and my differentials? I have 55k on it currently. I am a aggressive driver.
Thanks
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      06-03-2015, 10:17 PM   #2
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There's about 1,500 threads on this topic. FWIW, I just did my OC with the new Shell formulation on the BMW oil, Twin power turbo (fancy) 5w30 and it seems to run like any other synthetic.

Use Mobil 1, or any other good synthetic you find others using, with a Mann filter, just change it more often if your driving style includes a lot of hard/heavy load driving.

As for the other fluids, change them when you feel necessary. If you're tracking the car a lot, the differential and trans fluid can be changed a bit sooner. I'm the kind of person that doesn't like the word "lifetime", so I'll never let my car run its entire life with the same dirty fluids in it.
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      06-03-2015, 10:19 PM   #3
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      06-03-2015, 11:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335NJ View Post
FWIW, I just did my OC with the new Shell formulation on the BMW oil, Twin power turbo (fancy) 5w30 and it seems to run like any other synthetic.
Me too. And I just now found out that it's sold by the liter, rather than the quart. So it's 6.5 bottles to fill an N52 rather than almost a full 7 quart bottles (6.9 quarts).
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      06-03-2015, 11:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mightbaal View Post
I bought my car about 2 weeks ago the dealer says they did an oil change but who knows what type of oil is even in it. I have a bumper to bumper for 48k/48 mo so I have to follow factory recommendations. I know alot of the fluids in the car state lifetime fluids which is odd imo. But oil says every 15k? That seems way to many miles I have always done 3-5k on my cars with full synthetic. I would like to take it somewhere so I have proper receipts in the event of a failure but the BMW dealership is literally 1 hour away. Also any recommendations on coolant flush intervals transmission flushes and my differentials? I have 55k on it currently. I am a aggressive driver.
Thanks
Hello fellow 335xi owner! Well feel free to PM me about stuff on this car, I have about 103k miles on mine and can share a lot of info with you.

1) The car takes about 6.9 qt's of oil.
2) The car usually says it can do a 15k-18k OCI (Oil Change Interval) on the CBS (Condition Based Sensor) for the oil changes... but don't believe it. I've noticed that my car develops a slight strange "feel" on the motor when it reached the 10k mile mark for the oil. I've been doing 10k OCI's at the dealership up to the 90k mile mark. Since then I've been doing 7500 mile OCI's and using Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro from Walmart 5 qt jugs for $25 a jug and Mann oil filters from Amazon/RockAuto < $10. I've noticed that my oil temps with the Mobil 1 are much better and the car drives smoother.
3) My local NJ dealerships website and service dept's email promotions for oil changes were really cheap $60 OTD so doing frequent oil changes was a bargain. Now a day's those coupons are in the $70 or $80 range for the same oil change. The dealerships keep track of those receipts/records and some are kind enough to upload them to CarFax too!
4) a) Oil temps with dealership oil usually hit about 240*F in the summer with no oil cooler
b) Oil temps with Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro usually hit about 220*F in the summer and max out at 235*F for my car. So the proof is in the pudding.

Other stuff you should know:
A) The run flat tires on these car suck AZZ! They make the drive very HARD, because the sidewalls of RFT's are hard they usually cause the wheels to bend more often than a normal go flat tire.
B) The front shocks have almost no travel in the sport package, I'm at 103k miles and my front shock just blew out and I had a huge puddle in my drive way the next morning after hitting my millionth pothole in the city. I'm now trying to find a decent setup which will allow me to get more travel and refresh all of the suspension.
C) If you have bi-xenon lights, expect that at some point the auto leveling of the headlights will get messed up for the UP/DOWN tilting, there is a ball servo in the housing which pops out or breaks when you hit a hard enough bump and now you have headlights which are always pointing to the ground a few inches away from your bumper.
D) If you are running a square tire setup... make sure you keep the diameter of the tire tread about the same, AWD cars have a tolerance of up to 20% or 2/32" difference in diameter give. For example, if you have a 75% worn tire in the front and brand new tires in the rear... then your front tires have a smaller rolling diameter than the rears and that means on the same road your front tires are spinning faster than your rear tires. on a 2wd car that's not an issue but on an AWD car it matters because all 4 wheels are connected with a transfer case that's expecting them to turn at the same rate. you will end up blowing out your center diff/transfer case because of the strain. So if you can, always change out your tires in sets of 4 OR if you have 3 good tires and need to replace just one tire... order the replacement of the same kind from TireRack and ask for them to have the tire shaved down to the tread depth you need to match the other 3. This will save you the trouble of needing to keep buying sets of 4 tires. Long story short... ditch the run flats!
E) Contrary to popular belief, you don't need a spare tire and you don't need RFT's. I have a '92 eclipse GSX with no trunk cuz I have four 10" subs in the hatch, I've been driving around with no spare for 250k miles on normal go flat tires and no TPMS. I've had nails in my tire and had to be towed twice, thats why I have AAA with 100 mile tow for free... They send a flat bed to me and it takes me where every I want (Including trip interruption coverage) all for $70/year. Please remember AWD cars can only be towed on a Flat bed tow truck only (ALL THE WHEELS must be off the ground to be towed, remember the fronts are connected to the rears... so if 2 wheels are spinning and the other two are bound... then you are going to have a broken drive line really soon).
F) If you ever want to tint your windows, the inside weather strips on the glass will scratch up your new window tints. You will need to get tint protector installed (A simple 5 minute per window DIY) and I would highly recommend getting a tint film from an authorized installer who will cover any tint scratches. Like The Pinnacle F1 film by Llumar, it has a transferable warranty on the tint for install and scratches for the life of the car. the installer will probably require you to have the tint protector already installed or installed by him to keep the warranty.
G) If you have a pre-lci car, these cars are known to chew up the AE LED's every 12-18 months. I'm on my 6th set of AE's in 4 years between places like BMS, Amazon, etc.. and I don't buy the cheap ones either.
H) Buy a cheap coding cable online for about $20 and have a remote coder help you setup INPA and all the other tools so you can diag your own car. Also have the remote coder, code your car for the popular features.
I) Get a JB4 tune ASAP... it really makes the car come alive, then an after market FMIC and OCC, then an after market Charge Pipe and BOV. you now have a really nice/fun car.
J) Tuned cars usually need new spark plugs every 25k miles where as stock 335's can go the full 45k miles. You will also probably need to get carbon blasting done every 50k miles.
K) I'm still on my stock drive line fluids, but I plan to get all of them changed soon. When you change the 6AT transmission fluid, be sure to also change the pan/filter AND replace the Mechatronic sleeve (a stupid $12 part which always leaks every 75k miles). It's always best to do the drive line fluids at the same time as the mechatronic sleeve.
L) These cars are known to have the Waterpump and Tstat go out with no warning at any mileage. Usually what happens is the Oil Filter Housing Gasket (OFHG) starts to leak and bits of the rubber get into the coolant and that blocks up the waterpump or Tstat. So ALWAYS keep on top of your OFHG. Always change both your Waterpump and TStat together if either of those parts fail. The moment you get a yellow ding for the high coolant temp (looks like a sail boat image)... immediately pull over and shut off the motor OR if in traffic... just shut off the car in the middle of the road. Let the motor cool down for a while before attempting to drive again. It's always advised to have it flat bed towed rather than attempting to drive it.

I'm sure there is a lot more... but I think i got the main points.
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      06-03-2015, 11:28 PM   #6
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I use mobil 1 0-40 and change it every 3500 miles. If being tracked I swap it out afterwards. And every fluid had been changed around 64k. But like others have said there are a ton of threads with info on this topic. Lots of battles, and people's opinions not facts so pick n choose what you read. Anything within bmw perameters will work. And obviously frequent changes and not 15k. I don't care what they say that is one thing I will never do.
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      06-04-2015, 12:34 AM   #7
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I use Royal Purple HPS 5W-30
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      06-04-2015, 02:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
Hello fellow 335xi owner! Well feel free to PM me about stuff on this car, I have about 103k miles on mine and can share a lot of info with you.

1) The car takes about 6.9 qt's of oil.
2) The car usually says it can do a 15k-18k OCI (Oil Change Interval) on the CBS (Condition Based Sensor) for the oil changes... but don't believe it. I've noticed that my car develops a slight strange "feel" on the motor when it reached the 10k mile mark for the oil. I've been doing 10k OCI's at the dealership up to the 90k mile mark. Since then I've been doing 7500 mile OCI's and using Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro from Walmart 5 qt jugs for $25 a jug and Mann oil filters from Amazon/RockAuto < $10. I've noticed that my oil temps with the Mobil 1 are much better and the car drives smoother.
3) My local NJ dealerships website and service dept's email promotions for oil changes were really cheap $60 OTD so doing frequent oil changes was a bargain. Now a day's those coupons are in the $70 or $80 range for the same oil change. The dealerships keep track of those receipts/records and some are kind enough to upload them to CarFax too!
4) a) Oil temps with dealership oil usually hit about 240*F in the summer with no oil cooler
b) Oil temps with Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro usually hit about 220*F in the summer and max out at 235*F for my car. So the proof is in the pudding.

Other stuff you should know:
A) The run flat tires on these car suck AZZ! They make the drive very HARD, because the sidewalls of RFT's are hard they usually cause the wheels to bend more often than a normal go flat tire.
B) The front shocks have almost no travel in the sport package, I'm at 103k miles and my front shock just blew out and I had a huge puddle in my drive way the next morning after hitting my millionth pothole in the city. I'm now trying to find a decent setup which will allow me to get more travel and refresh all of the suspension.
C) If you have bi-xenon lights, expect that at some point the auto leveling of the headlights will get messed up for the UP/DOWN tilting, there is a ball servo in the housing which pops out or breaks when you hit a hard enough bump and now you have headlights which are always pointing to the ground a few inches away from your bumper.
D) If you are running a square tire setup... make sure you keep the diameter of the tire tread about the same, AWD cars have a tolerance of up to 20% or 2/32" difference in diameter give. For example, if you have a 75% worn tire in the front and brand new tires in the rear... then your front tires have a smaller rolling diameter than the rears and that means on the same road your front tires are spinning faster than your rear tires. on a 2wd car that's not an issue but on an AWD car it matters because all 4 wheels are connected with a transfer case that's expecting them to turn at the same rate. you will end up blowing out your center diff/transfer case because of the strain. So if you can, always change out your tires in sets of 4 OR if you have 3 good tires and need to replace just one tire... order the replacement of the same kind from TireRack and ask for them to have the tire shaved down to the tread depth you need to match the other 3. This will save you the trouble of needing to keep buying sets of 4 tires. Long story short... ditch the run flats!
E) Contrary to popular belief, you don't need a spare tire and you don't need RFT's. I have a '92 eclipse GSX with no trunk cuz I have four 10" subs in the hatch, I've been driving around with no spare for 250k miles on normal go flat tires and no TPMS. I've had nails in my tire and had to be towed twice, thats why I have AAA with 100 mile tow for free... They send a flat bed to me and it takes me where every I want (Including trip interruption coverage) all for $70/year. Please remember AWD cars can only be towed on a Flat bed tow truck only (ALL THE WHEELS must be off the ground to be towed, remember the fronts are connected to the rears... so if 2 wheels are spinning and the other two are bound... then you are going to have a broken drive line really soon).
F) If you ever want to tint your windows, the inside weather strips on the glass will scratch up your new window tints. You will need to get tint protector installed (A simple 5 minute per window DIY) and I would highly recommend getting a tint film from an authorized installer who will cover any tint scratches. Like The Pinnacle F1 film by Llumar, it has a transferable warranty on the tint for install and scratches for the life of the car. the installer will probably require you to have the tint protector already installed or installed by him to keep the warranty.
G) If you have a pre-lci car, these cars are known to chew up the AE LED's every 12-18 months. I'm on my 6th set of AE's in 4 years between places like BMS, Amazon, etc.. and I don't buy the cheap ones either.
H) Buy a cheap coding cable online for about $20 and have a remote coder help you setup INPA and all the other tools so you can diag your own car. Also have the remote coder, code your car for the popular features.
I) Get a JB4 tune ASAP... it really makes the car come alive, then an after market FMIC and OCC, then an after market Charge Pipe and BOV. you now have a really nice/fun car.
J) Tuned cars usually need new spark plugs every 25k miles where as stock 335's can go the full 45k miles. You will also probably need to get carbon blasting done every 50k miles.
K) I'm still on my stock drive line fluids, but I plan to get all of them changed soon. When you change the 6AT transmission fluid, be sure to also change the pan/filter AND replace the Mechatronic sleeve (a stupid $12 part which always leaks every 75k miles). It's always best to do the drive line fluids at the same time as the mechatronic sleeve.
L) These cars are known to have the Waterpump and Tstat go out with no warning at any mileage. Usually what happens is the Oil Filter Housing Gasket (OFHG) starts to leak and bits of the rubber get into the coolant and that blocks up the waterpump or Tstat. So ALWAYS keep on top of your OFHG. Always change both your Waterpump and TStat together if either of those parts fail. The moment you get a yellow ding for the high coolant temp (looks like a sail boat image)... immediately pull over and shut off the motor OR if in traffic... just shut off the car in the middle of the road. Let the motor cool down for a while before attempting to drive again. It's always advised to have it flat bed towed rather than attempting to drive it.

I'm sure there is a lot more... but I think i got the main points.

Wow thank you for all the information here. I got the extended warranty on the car through my credit union. I have had it for 2 weeks and the HPFP went in the first week (replaced under BMW 10yr/120k HPFP warranty) and right now actually the car is in the shop for the waterpump lol. I have the JB4 I actually had it about 2 days after I got the car lol. The one thing that impresses me about turbo or twin turbo cars is the amount of HP u can get with so little money and this is a BMW which I have owned one years back and loved it. It was the only car I have ever owned for more than 4 years lol. I wonder about the AWD and the added horsepower that is one thing that scares me but I needed a safe car for the winters for family transportation. The windows were tinted when I bought it. Right now I plan on just running the JB4 and I just got my DCI actually but I am going to wait before I get anything else as it would be a pain to remove the mods if I need more warranty work.
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      06-04-2015, 02:03 AM   #9
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After researching this I decided to use BMW's new 5w-30 made by Shell. It seems like my car likes it. I change it every 7500 miles.

Another good choice seems to be Mobil 1 0w-40 which is made for European cars and meets BMW's standards.

Last edited by driverman; 06-04-2015 at 08:46 AM.
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      06-04-2015, 03:28 AM   #10
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mobil one 0w40 every 4/5000 miles. My original N54 engine and turbos last 190k miles and going strong.
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      06-04-2015, 03:30 AM   #11
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Whatever BMW wants to put in, an oil change (including filter) at the BMW service center is cheaper for me than the cost of the oil alone if I were to buy it myself.
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      06-04-2015, 06:08 AM   #12
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If you bought it at a BMW dealer, it has BMW OE oil in it. BMW dealers only stock BMW oil.

Change the oil when you want. You can ask the same question about OCI and oil type that has been asked and discussed on this Forum literally THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS OF TIMES, and you'll get answers from every 3,000 miles to BMW's CBS schedule. And you'll get oil recommendations for every brand from Royal Purple to BMW EO. But since I've been on this Forum for the past 9 years I've not read any thread from any member that personally experienced an engine failure because they followed BMW's extended engine oil service intervals. I'm on this site every day.

Seriously, there is no magic pill here for BMW oil service requirements. Use whatever oil you want and at whatever interval you want, it really doesn't matter. I can tell you that FWIW I've pretty much followed BMW's service intervals for maintenance on my E90 and it currently has 284,000 miles on it. What I will recommend is you should use a BMW original equipment (or an OEM - MANN) oil filter to ensure proper fitment and to meet longevity specifications. I recently bought a 2008 Z4 this past December from CarMax. CarMax changes the oil prior to sale, however with similar concerns as you had, I immediately changed the oil when I got the car home. CarMax used an aftermarket CarQuest filter, which did not fit correctly and was partially crushed in the housing. I've only used BMW OE oil and filters in my E90, the Z4 has the same engine, so I immediately recognized that anything but MANN filters for these engines may not fit correctly.

The good thing about BMW is you can find BMW oil and filters on line shipped to your door for about the same price as aftermarket oil and filters from any of the major retail auto parts stores.

Good luck with the new ride.
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      06-04-2015, 07:45 AM   #13
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Mileage is debatable, but it should be changed at least once a year.
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      06-04-2015, 08:04 AM   #14
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Extra virgin olive oil for me
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      06-04-2015, 08:11 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizm0 View Post
Extra virgin olive oil for me
I went with the regular virgin olive oil cause it was a little cheaper but apparently is slightly used with a slight white tinge to it.
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      06-04-2015, 08:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blown07 View Post
I went with the regular virgin olive oil cause it was a little cheaper but apparently is slightly used with a slight white tinge to it.
You cheap bastard... I prefer using extra virgin, everything feels so tight with it.
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      06-04-2015, 08:26 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
If you bought it at a BMW dealer, it has BMW OE oil in it. BMW dealers only stock BMW oil.

Change the oil when you want. You can ask the same question about OCI and oil type that has been asked and discussed on this Forum literally THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS OF TIMES, and you'll get answers from every 3,000 miles to BMW's CBS schedule. And you'll get oil recommendations for every brand from Royal Purple to BMW EO. But since I've been on this Forum for the past 9 years I've not read any thread from any member that personally experienced an engine failure because they followed BMW's extended engine oil service intervals. I'm on this site every day.

Seriously, there is no magic pill here for BMW oil service requirements. Use whatever oil you want and at whatever interval you want, it really doesn't matter. I can tell you that FWIW I've pretty much followed BMW's service intervals for maintenance on my E90 and it currently has 284,000 miles on it. What I will recommend is you should use a BMW original equipment (or an OEM - MANN) oil filter to ensure proper fitment and to meet longevity specifications. I recently bought a 2008 Z4 this past December from CarMax. CarMax changes the oil prior to sale, however with similar concerns as you had, I immediately changed the oil when I got the car home. CarMax used an aftermarket CarQuest filter, which did not fit correctly and was partially crushed in the housing. I've only used BMW OE oil and filters in my E90, the Z4 has the same engine, so I immediately recognized that anything but MANN filters for these engines may not fit correctly.

The good thing about BMW is you can find BMW oil and filters on line shipped to your door for about the same price as aftermarket oil and filters from any of the major retail auto parts stores.

Good luck with the new ride.
I personally change my oil every 5-6k miles, but that's just me. You are 100% right on the filters though. The MANN filter was designed to go in these cars.. Don't understand why anyone would use an after market filer when MANN filters are already pretty cheap.
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      06-04-2015, 10:21 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mightbaal View Post
Wow thank you for all the information here. I got the extended warranty on the car through my credit union. I have had it for 2 weeks and the HPFP went in the first week (replaced under BMW 10yr/120k HPFP warranty) and right now actually the car is in the shop for the waterpump lol. I have the JB4 I actually had it about 2 days after I got the car lol. The one thing that impresses me about turbo or twin turbo cars is the amount of HP u can get with so little money and this is a BMW which I have owned one years back and loved it. It was the only car I have ever owned for more than 4 years lol. I wonder about the AWD and the added horsepower that is one thing that scares me but I needed a safe car for the winters for family transportation. The windows were tinted when I bought it. Right now I plan on just running the JB4 and I just got my DCI actually but I am going to wait before I get anything else as it would be a pain to remove the mods if I need more warranty work.
Out of curiosity, what size tires are you running on the 219M wheels?
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      06-04-2015, 04:06 PM   #19
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Out of curiosity, what size tires are you running on the 219M wheels?
They are 245/40 all around.
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      06-04-2015, 05:09 PM   #20
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      06-04-2015, 06:00 PM   #22
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