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      08-22-2015, 10:21 PM   #1
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2C7C and 2C2E error codes, few questions..

Ok so I used my OTG cable and MHD to read the code and it says 27C7, 2C2E, and 29D1.

27C7 - Lambda probe behind catalytic converter 2, signal
2C2E - Lambda probe in front of catalytic converter 2, control failure or cable transmission failure?
29D1 Misfirings, cylinder 5

And I know that 29D1 can be diagnosed rather simply by swapping the coil around but for the other two, is there a chance that it could be something else causing these codes to trigger..??

For instance, I just drove 250 miles and burned through a quart of oil, topped my oil off when I got to my destination and just drove home and burned through another quart of oil.. It smokes upon cold start and sometimes when I'm at a stop sign or red light just idling..

I'm thinking valve seals or turbos, however 3 different BMW dealerships all diagnosed my car and said the turbos are fine but I have a leaking oil pan gasket, and I need a carbon cleaning.. Could these two make my car smoke and burn that much oil..? Also could my car smoking as bad as it is and burning through oil trigger the first two codes to go off..??

Any input is greatly appreciated..
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      08-22-2015, 10:29 PM   #2
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Trims and or AFR , depending on fuel
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      08-23-2015, 12:54 AM   #3
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Since I just replaced all 6 injectors last week and changed my oil should I reset my adaptations?
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      08-24-2015, 02:03 AM   #4
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burning oil and smoking.... I would check my plugs and injectors for oil to rule out a bad piston ring. then move forward to a gasket else where.
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      08-24-2015, 06:43 AM   #5
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Just curious, if one or more rings were shot wouldn't I be losing compression and throw a check engine light for that..?

Thanks!
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      08-24-2015, 08:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Just curious, if one or more rings were shot wouldn't I be losing compression and throw a check engine light for that..?

Thanks!
check this out.

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32981
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      08-24-2015, 10:56 PM   #7
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Wow, wish I didn't just read that lol... But thanks for the warning!
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      08-25-2015, 12:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Wow, wish I didn't just read that lol... But thanks for the warning!
I felt the same way when I read it . I bought a $20 borescope, removed injectors/plugs and checked for oil. Granted, it's not as in depth as removing everything and looking at it directly but it's something.
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      08-25-2015, 10:43 AM   #9
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I think maybe i'll attend to these items first before I rip the head off and keep my fingers crossed the entire time..

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      08-25-2015, 07:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
I think maybe i'll attend to these items first before I rip the head off and keep my fingers crossed the entire time..

Oil pan gasket it easy enough to check, but a real bitch to replace. Did one about 18 months ago - you have to drop the front subframe to get to it. Big $$ repair at a shop.
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      08-25-2015, 08:12 PM   #11
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Oil filter housing gasket can be done in less than an hour. I need to replace my oil pan gasket, a local shop quoted me $900 to get it done.
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      08-25-2015, 08:29 PM   #12
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Oil filter housing gasket can be done in less than an hour. I need to replace my oil pan gasket, a local shop quoted me $900 to get it done.
Yup, about $60 in parts and the rest labor. I did it in my garage - it was fun :-)
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      03-06-2017, 04:38 PM   #13
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Just to update this thread, it ended up being a clogged drain on my rear turbo.. New turbos fixed the issue, the codes, smoking, etc.. Car's been running fine ever since..
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      03-06-2017, 05:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Just to update this thread, it ended up being a clogged drain on my rear turbo.. New turbos fixed the issue, the codes, smoking, etc.. Car's been running fine ever since..
Thanks for the update. I was going to say turbo related just because of the amount of oil it was drinking every couple hundred miles. Curious about the oil change history since I wouldn't expect clogged lines coming off the turbo if normal oil changes were done.

This is one of the reasons why I'm going to put some Berryman B-12 into the crankcase a couple hundred miles before my next oil change. CarFax showed the first 4 or 5 oil changes on my previously-owned 134k miler as being done every 15k miles or so. That's way more miles than I would've done it at, especially on a turbo-charged vehicle.
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      03-06-2017, 05:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticRob View Post
Thanks for the update. I was going to say turbo related just because of the amount of oil it was drinking every couple hundred miles. Curious about the oil change history since I wouldn't expect clogged lines coming off the turbo if normal oil changes were done.

This is one of the reasons why I'm going to put some Berryman B-12 into the crankcase a couple hundred miles before my next oil change. CarFax showed the first 4 or 5 oil changes on my previously-owned 134k miler as being done every 15k miles or so. That's way more miles than I would've done it at, especially on a turbo-charged vehicle.
Yeah and what's even more crazy is my car was CPO and Braman West Palm BMW said it was "meticulously kept up with", until I sent the Service Manager a picture of the solidified oil stuck in the rear turbo drain, then he replied with something along the lines of a catastrophe lol.. I'm like, yeah... sure.. I bet that's what it was..
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      03-06-2017, 06:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Yeah and what's even more crazy is my car was CPO and Braman West Palm BMW said it was "meticulously kept up with", until I sent the Service Manager a picture of the solidified oil stuck in the rear turbo drain, then he replied with something along the lines of a catastrophe lol.. I'm like, yeah... sure.. I bet that's what it was..
My Dad, a 40+ year dealership mechanic always told me not to trust anyone in the Sales or Service Depts.
Exaggeration I knew, but still good advice to be weary of anyone when money and job security are involved. There are a LOT of unscrupulous types in the automotive industry, especially some independent shops.
I've seen what happens first hand on unmaintained vehicles so I try to take excellent care of mine, both from a preventative, but also a performance, perspective.
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      03-07-2017, 10:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticRob View Post
My Dad, a 40+ year dealership mechanic always told me not to trust anyone in the Sales or Service Depts.
Exaggeration I knew, but still good advice to be weary of anyone when money and job security are involved. There are a LOT of unscrupulous types in the automotive industry, especially some independent shops.
I've seen what happens first hand on unmaintained vehicles so I try to take excellent care of mine, both from a preventative, but also a performance, perspective.
I agree with your pops.. Scruples are definitely lacked by many in that field, and sadly it's all we really have to rely on because the higher ups "BMWNA" says that the dealers are their eyes and ears, so when you have an issue and BMW dealers are helping at all, than it sucks because the owner assumes the bill for work that should be covered by a dealer.. For instance, the whole time my rear turbo was clogged and car was smoking, BMW said "your turbos are fine", knowing that I only had three months left on my warranty.. So about six months later, they diagnosed it with bad turbos, and wouldn't cover it because it was out of warranty.. Yeah, I wanted to blow that place up..
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      03-07-2017, 02:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Just to update this thread, it ended up being a clogged drain on my rear turbo.. New turbos fixed the issue, the codes, smoking, etc.. Car's been running fine ever since..
Thanks for updating this thread - I've been getting the same code, but the car's been running fine for the most part. I haven't had the same degree of oil consumption, but I know there are leaks.

I was worried that the 2C2E was wiring or DME related since I just replaced the O2 sensors, and I still get the failure, which made me think it wasn't reading anything. When I removed that sensor, it was solid black, so I'm hoping its a similar situation as yours since I have new turbos coming soon, and not something internal.
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      03-07-2017, 03:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Just to update this thread, it ended up being a clogged drain on my rear turbo.. New turbos fixed the issue, the codes, smoking, etc.. Car's been running fine ever since..
Thinking about this, I am curious just how much oil is supposed to travel thru those pipes. Is it a steady stream of liquid, or is it more like vapors or small trickles? Is it under high pressure, low pressure, merely a bleed-off, etc?

I wonder just how much of a difference putting some Berryman, or Seafoam, or similar crankcase treatments will help break down this sludge build up in the nooks and crannies N54s have. PCV system on these is a perfect example. How effective might it be, or not be, if left cleaners were left to circulate awhile?

I've put Seafoam in the crankcase on some older cars that I'd just purchased and changed the oil in, and I was amazed at how thick and goopy that new oil was after just a few dozen miles of driving. Apparently it broke down that sludge well enough to liquefy it, mix it, and allow me to drain it. Subsequent oil changes with more Seafoam appeared much cleaner, and since the cars ran smoother I figure it had to be doing something good.
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      03-07-2017, 04:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticRob View Post
Thinking about this, I am curious just how much oil is supposed to travel thru those pipes. Is it a steady stream of liquid, or is it more like vapors or small trickles? Is it under high pressure, low pressure, merely a bleed-off, etc?
It's a lot, it's a high flow feed/drain system, so even with a little leak you'll notice a huge puddle..

Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticRob View Post
I wonder just how much of a difference putting some Berryman, or Seafoam, or similar crankcase treatments will help break down this sludge build up in the nooks and crannies N54s have. PCV system on these is a perfect example. How effective might it be, or not be, if left cleaners were left to circulate awhile?
I used Rotella T6 for my first 1k mile oil change after the new turbos, then I changed oil again with T6 @ 3k miles, and then now I'm at about 5k miles and going to change it again with T6.. Went from thick sludge after the first drain, to a nice light brown tinted fluid during the rest of the oil changes.. I stuck a borescope in my oil cap on top of the engine and its like night and day in there compared to before I used T6 and was still using that Mobil 1..

Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticRob View Post
I've put Seafoam in the crankcase on some older cars that I'd just purchased and changed the oil in, and I was amazed at how thick and goopy that new oil was after just a few dozen miles of driving. Apparently it broke down that sludge well enough to liquefy it, mix it, and allow me to drain it. Subsequent oil changes with more Seafoam appeared much cleaner, and since the cars ran smoother I figure it had to be doing something good.
I did seafoam prior to my first T6 oil change, I also used a little bowl with a brush, and was dipping the brush into the seafoam and scrubbed my cam covers and crevices with it to get as much sludge out as I could.. After a few short oil changes, the car not only runs way better, I feel better knowing that that the sludge has been eliminated..
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      03-07-2017, 05:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by langsbr View Post
Thanks for updating this thread - I've been getting the same code, but the car's been running fine for the most part. I haven't had the same degree of oil consumption, but I know there are leaks.

I was worried that the 2C2E was wiring or DME related since I just replaced the O2 sensors, and I still get the failure, which made me think it wasn't reading anything. When I removed that sensor, it was solid black, so I'm hoping its a similar situation as yours since I have new turbos coming soon, and not something internal.
You're welcome buddy.. Yeah I had that code lurkin for a while, but luckily all the codes I had went away after I did that huge maintenance on my car.. I replaced every gasket and seal when I did my turbos including the trans, oil pan, mechatronic sleeve, valve cover, oil filter housing, oil cooler housing, pcv valve, etc.. Literally spent like $1k on gaskets and seals.. But now I have peace of mind knowing all those things that "typically" leak or break, have been replaced..
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      03-07-2017, 05:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
It's a lot, it's a high flow feed/drain system, so even with a little leak you'll notice a huge puddle...

I did seafoam prior to my first T6 oil change, I also used a little bowl with a brush, and was dipping the brush into the seafoam and scrubbed my cam covers and crevices with it to get as much sludge out as I could. After a few short oil changes, the car not only runs way better, I feel better knowing that that the sludge has been eliminated..
That's good to hear. I figure Berryman and/or Seafoam types of treatment, if done regularly, should help keep things flowing better pretty much everywhere then. Even with the PCV system being more on the vaporous side, I figure the cleaners themselves when mixed will then also become vaporous and hopefully still do something useful up there. Looking at my own 134k mile engine I KNOW it has to be needing work ASAP.
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