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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Car started violently shaking, check engine light came on....help



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      04-26-2012, 07:33 PM   #23
Stangorang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08-335 View Post
If i take my car to a BMW service center to service the codes, do you think they will try to say i voided my warranty with the DP's and therefore can't do the work under warranty?

I am going to be bringing me car in soon anyways to repair some damage to my fender (stupid people with their SUVs) so i would just say "I have noticed that my car has been misfiring lately."

Would they then complain about my DP's?

Regards
Assuming you remove the Cobb tune completely (unmarry it from the car), it will automatically erase all those codes and you will be taking what amounts t0 a codeless car to the dealer and they will do nothing.
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      04-27-2012, 08:43 AM   #24
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Ok, I have answers for all codes:

H29CE- Combustion misfire cylinder 2
-Solution- Replacing all coils and spark plugs (its a used car, why not).
H2F6C- Exhaust fumeflap
-Solution- No idea.
H29F4- Catalyst System Effeciency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
-Solution- Is this caused by my catless DP's?
H29F5- Catalyst System Effeciency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
-Solution- Is this caused by my catless DP's?

Regards
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      04-27-2012, 08:44 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by djjasper View Post
Google search without the "H" in the code.
THANKS!
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      04-27-2012, 08:54 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08-335 View Post
Ok, I have answers for all codes:

H29CE- Combustion misfire cylinder 2
-Solution- Replacing all coils and spark plugs (its a used car, why not).
H2F6C- Exhaust fumeflap
-Solution- No idea.
H29F4- Catalyst System Effeciency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
-Solution- Is this caused by my catless DP's?
H29F5- Catalyst System Effeciency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
-Solution- Is this caused by my catless DP's?

Regards
do you have a dp fix ? if yes remove it. No need with Cobb stage 2.
Fumeflap: nothing important just detects the stock fumeflap is not working.
Missfire :how many miles ? change plugs first.
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      04-27-2012, 09:12 AM   #27
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[quote=enrita;11844394]do you have a dp fix ? if yes remove it. No need with Cobb stage 2.

Fumeflap: nothing important just detects the stock fumeflap is not working.
Missfire :how many miles ? change plugs first.[/QUOTE]

I assume you know how to swap out your coils? No need to change anything until you determine if it is a bad coil or not. Mine was a bad injector by the way, not a coil, but you may get lucky.
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      04-27-2012, 10:10 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enrita View Post
do you have a dp fix ? if yes remove it. No need with Cobb stage 2.
Fumeflap: nothing important just detects the stock fumeflap is not working.
Missfire :how many miles ? change plugs first.
I do have the DP fix on right now, I am going to remove it this weekend. Is the DME box that white box on the passenger side inside the engine bay?

If so, you have to remove so much shit to get to it!!!!

[quote=djjasper;11844491]
Quote:
Originally Posted by enrita View Post
do you have a dp fix ? if yes remove it. No need with Cobb stage 2.

Fumeflap: nothing important just detects the stock fumeflap is not working.
Missfire :how many miles ? change plugs first.[/QUOTE]

I assume you know how to swap out your coils? No need to change anything until you determine if it is a bad coil or not. Mine was a bad injector by the way, not a coil, but you may get lucky.
I have never swapped out a coil in my life (yes i know pathetic) so i guess its time to learn.

Does the car have a distributer?

Regards.
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      04-27-2012, 10:21 AM   #29
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This is a pretty good tutorial. I used vise-grips- NOT TOO TIGHT! to pull the coils instead of prying with a screwdriver.

http://blog.bavauto.com/10523/diy-vi...o-m54-m62-n62/

But first you need to remove the engine cover. If you have never done this, it is kind of a pain. You have to remove the cowl over the back of the engine in order to reach the 2 bolts in the back.
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      04-27-2012, 10:24 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djjasper View Post
This is a pretty good tutorial. I used vise-grips- NOT TOO TIGHT! to pull the coils instead of prying with a screwdriver.

http://blog.bavauto.com/10523/diy-vi...o-m54-m62-n62/

But first you need to remove the engine cover. If you have never done this, it is kind of a pain. You have to remove the cowl over the back of the engine in order to reach the 2 bolts in the back.

Yea i watched/downloaded a video from Cobb showing you to access the coils.

If things get to crazy though, I am going to take it to the dealer to get fixed as my tech skills are limited and i have a warranty so mine as well use it. Question is, do you think they will complain about my catless downpipes? I will of course completely remove the Cobb tune before pulling in but do you think they will try to blame this problem on the DPs? if so, what should i say back to state that the DP's could not have caused this problem?

Keep in mind that the car was bought used and does currently have over 30K miles.
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      04-27-2012, 10:28 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08-335 View Post
Yea i watched/downloaded a video from Cobb showing you to access the coils.

If things get to crazy though, I am going to take it to the dealer to get fixed as my tech skills are limited and i have a warranty so mine as well use it. Question is, do you think they will complain about my catless downpipes? I will of course completely remove the Cobb tune before pulling in but do you think they will try to blame this problem on the DPs? if so, what should i say back to state that the DP's could not have caused this problem?

Keep in mind that the car was bought used and does currently have over 30K miles.
Btw, if you are going to attempt changing the coils at home might as well remove the DP fix at the same time since you would have to remove all the crap you're talking about for both jobs. it's very simply, just needs patience.
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      04-27-2012, 10:51 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08-335 View Post
If i take my car to a BMW service center to service the codes, do you think they will try to say i voided my warranty with the DP's and therefore can't do the work under warranty?

I am going to be bringing me car in soon anyways to repair some damage to my fender (stupid people with their SUVs) so i would just say "I have noticed that my car has been misfiring lately."

Would they then complain about my DP's?

Regards
Of course they would complain about the downpipes. Any modification has the potential to void a part of your warranty. Remove your tune and dp fix, read the codes, clear the codes, try to get them to replicate, investigate yourself before bringing the car in to determine if you think it's your fault or unrelated.

Based on your description, without reading the codes, I'm leaning towards a fuel pump, or somehow one of your o2 sensors is fouled out.

I guess it could be an injector or coilpack but it's odd they would mysteriously die on you.
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      04-27-2012, 11:25 AM   #33
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Does anyone have insight on these codes:

H29F4- Catalyst System Effeciency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
H29F5- Catalyst System Effeciency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

Are they caused by my catless DP's or are my O2 sensors backwards? I saw a few threads saying if you have catless DP's you will always get these codes.

Just looking for a little more info.


Thanks again.
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      04-27-2012, 11:36 AM   #34
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The fumes flap means someone disconnected the exhaust flap to make it sound a little louder... kinda like the golf tee mod
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      04-27-2012, 11:49 AM   #35
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The fumes flap means someone disconnected the exhaust flap to make it sound a little louder... kinda like the golf tee mod
Yep that was me, hahaha.

Regards.
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      05-10-2012, 01:54 PM   #36
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UPDATE (5/10/12):

I removed the Cobb AP from my car and couldn't get the car to misfire again, did numerous WOT runs.

I loaded Cobb stage1 v301 and it ran flawlessly, never misfired even when doing WOT runs.

I then loaded Cobb stage2 v301 and it ran flawlessly, never misfired even when doing WOT runs.

I loaded Cobb Stage2 401, it misfired right away (this was the map i was running when it first misfired when is started the thread).

Can I safely say that v401 was the cause of my misfires???

Regards
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      05-10-2012, 02:45 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08-335 View Post
UPDATE (5/10/12):

I removed the Cobb AP from my car and couldn't get the car to misfire again, did numerous WOT runs.

I loaded Cobb stage1 v301 and it ran flawlessly, never misfired even when doing WOT runs.

I then loaded Cobb stage2 v301 and it ran flawlessly, never misfired even when doing WOT runs.

I loaded Cobb Stage2 401, it misfired right away (this was the map i was running when it first misfired when is started the thread).

Can I safely say that v401 was the cause of my misfires???

Regards

I'd say it's a pretty good chance. v4.01 is still a beta map so I'd just run v3.01 to be safe. I actually just went back to 3.01 as I was having some weird issues on the track this weekend. Cobb knows about it and they're working on a fix.
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      09-28-2013, 08:30 AM   #38
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I'd say it's a pretty good chance. v4.01 is still a beta map so I'd just run v3.01 to be safe. I actually just went back to 3.01 as I was having some weird issues on the track this weekend. Cobb knows about it and they're working on a fix.
Bringing this back from the dead. I just received my V2 and have the exact same problem as the OP. Stage 1 4.01 map makes the car instantly fall on its face and the car will misfire until the key is turned off. Any chance a fix has come up for this?
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      09-28-2013, 09:56 AM   #39
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Service engine soon

I had this same problem brought it to dealer had it walnut blasted that didn't fix it than I had the injectors replaced after they diagnosed that cylinder 4 was misfiring. Problem solved everything running normal.
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