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      04-27-2012, 11:53 AM   #1
Matrez
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Just thought I would share my unfortunate experience with you so you can avoid it :)

Hi everyone,

A few weeks ago I thought I would change my standard side lights to these SMD LED ones for better look at night but guess what...
I bought the first set on eBay, here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2509603148...84.m1439.l2649
Built in resistors, canbus error free etc etc... Got it the other day and guess what... There were no errors on the dash but while switching the car on and off the LED were flickering for around 5-10 secs.. It was really annoying so I returned it for a refund and tried some other, "better" ones :P I also got these load resistor to go with these LEDs, here they are :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1808095550...84.m1439.l2649 with http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1904645578...84.m1439.l2649
All fine, received it with seller's assurance for correct working and it was still flickering. I thought to myself lets give it one more try, I returned the LEDs but kept the load resistors for next super generation LEDs over here :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2708342509...84.m1439.l2649

These super tech LEDs were also fliskering with or without the load resistors.
I returned everything and gave up totally.

I wrote a message to Scott about my issue and the response was :
,, It sounds liek LED bulbs just may not be compatable with your vehicle. Some vehicels need an exact resistance from the bulb to stop the error messages rom comming on. It may be that your vehicle needs an exact resistance from the bulb, as you may have a very specific system. I do not know if these would work as i think you will need a specific resistance and too much or to litle will triger the system. "

So if you are trying to change your sidelight bulbs for a LED ones, dont
Also avoid LED number plate lights, mine were about 15 from XTEC, here :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Xtec-C5W-L...item5642effe48
These also flicker a little but tried once and left them, its not so annoying as cant see it :P

Hope your winter wheels are off and you are enjoying the summer ones

Best Regards,

Mat.
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      04-27-2012, 12:57 PM   #2
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Flicker is cause by the lighting control module testing the bulbs are ok. Using low voltage is enough to flicker the led bulbs whereas the OEMs dont. System is very sensitive.
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      04-27-2012, 12:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matrez View Post
Hi everyone,

A few weeks ago I thought I would change my standard side lights to these SMD LED ones for better look at night but guess what...
I bought the first set on eBay, here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2509603148...84.m1439.l2649
Built in resistors, canbus error free etc etc... Got it the other day and guess what....
These specifically state that they should not be fitted next to headlights. They are for interior or numberplate use only.

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      04-27-2012, 01:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil@JuicedUpTuning View Post
Flicker is cause by the lighting control module testing the bulbs are ok. Using low voltage is enough to flicker the led bulbs whereas the OEMs dont. System is very sensitive.
+1

Had some experience with this on caravan lights when using the BMW dedicated wiring box.
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      04-27-2012, 02:11 PM   #5
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So does that mean Neil that all the LED ones flicker?
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      04-27-2012, 03:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awfully_Polite View Post
These specifically state that they should not be fitted next to headlights. They are for interior or numberplate use only.

Ohhhh the seller must have changed the discription. Its in red letters now, so visible. Yes I would think you need special LEDs with protection to heat like the other 2 I bought.

When you change lights inside the car there are no problems, I have done them all - boot light, glove box light, under door light, above feet light etc Not a problem !
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      04-27-2012, 03:05 PM   #7
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So does that mean Neil that all the LED ones flicker?
Resistors and ballasts are employed to prevent the errors and flicker on some.
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      04-27-2012, 04:18 PM   #8
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Has anyone tried putting a capacitor across the bulbholder connections?
By this, I mean the two wires from the cars loom which normally go to the bulb.

The lighting control module should get fooled then, when it sends pulses, to check the lamp is not blown.
The capacitor 'snubs' the pulses which also stops the leds flickering.

You would have to experiment with the values but they are only pennies to buy.
A standard Tantalum capacitor, say 35Vdc, 22uF may work. It's quite small and wouldn't dissipate any heat so won't get hot.
(Tantalums are polarised, so get it the right way round).

I might have to try this at sometime, when I have another go at fitting the led H8 replacements for the DRLs on mine.
I couldn't get the damn things in physically when i bought them, and haven't been arsed to try again since.

But it must be worth a shot?
Even the cheapo leds would work then......
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      04-27-2012, 04:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBanana View Post
Has anyone tried putting a capacitor across the bulbholder connections?
By this, I mean the two wires from the cars loom which normally go to the bulb.

The lighting control module should get fooled then, when it sends pulses, to check the lamp is not blown.
The capacitor 'snubs' the pulses which also stops the leds flickering.

You would have to experiment with the values but they are only pennies to buy.
A standard Tantalum capacitor, say 35Vdc, 22uF may work. It's quite small and wouldn't dissipate any heat so won't get hot.
(Tantalums are polarised, so get it the right way round).

I might have to try this at sometime, when I have another go at fitting the led H8 replacements for the DRLs on mine.
I couldn't get the damn things in physically when i bought them, and haven't been arsed to try again since.

But it must be worth a shot?
Even the cheapo leds would work then......
I havent tried it but seems like a good idea. To do that you would need to buy load resistors as I did so you can strip them and solder on a capacitor in parallel with the resistor and as you said you need to get the polarity correct otherwise you can damage the capacitor in some way. The load resistors I had got really hot when the lights were on - I didnt know the spec of these as covered by the plastic box to protect wiring inside from getting too hot or some other components. Also the ends of the load resistor adapter did not quite fit the hole in the headlamp for the side light - it was a bit loose so had to put some heat resistant tape once or twice over it so it was tight then.

If you try it let us know the outcome

Regards,

Mat.
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      04-28-2012, 02:45 AM   #10
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So what will you do now mate?
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      04-28-2012, 09:56 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awfully_Polite View Post
So what will you do now mate?
BigBannana has a good idea so lets hope it will work. Here I found the righ capacitor : http://uk.farnell.com/kemet/t356k226...ohm/dp/1167603

Use the load resistors from eBay with the connection adapter, strip it out and solder the capacitor in parallel with the load resistor. Resistor also could be bought separately for pennies but the problem is there is no way you can solder it to the wiring inside the headlamp so you need to mess with the adapter.

Its the only way it might be working as all of the LEDs available flicker.

Best Regards,

Mat.
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      04-28-2012, 11:48 AM   #12
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Sounds like a fair bit of work. Did the LED's look better in your opinion ( minus the obvious flickering)?

Good luck with the mod though.

Let us know how you get on.
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      04-28-2012, 12:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awfully_Polite View Post
Sounds like a fair bit of work. Did the LED's look better in your opinion ( minus the obvious flickering)?

Good luck with the mod though.

Let us know how you get on.
I could have taken some photos so you could see but it looked a lot better than standard yellow side lights. The ones I bought 3rd time were 2W ones so very bright Even having H7s in yellow the combination was very nice with side light white LEDs

I will surely do let you know.
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