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      10-26-2015, 08:44 PM   #1
RenaissanceMan
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Help! Coolant pump/bleed procedure won't start!

Hey folks just got done doing some cooling system work on my 06 e90 325i and for some strange reason I can't get the bleeding process to begin. I've done this a couple times in the past by following these instructions:

-Connect batt charger
-Insert key
-Turn on accessories using start button
-Set heat to highest temp and fan speed to low
-Push accelerator pedal all the way down for 10 seconds
-Pump should start the 12 min bleed process

For whatever reason my pump will not activate. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be? I've got to get this car running by the morning. Any help greatly appreciated!

As a backup plan, can you manually bleed the system effectively like an older car by running it with bleed screw open until air escapes??
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      10-26-2015, 09:08 PM   #2
Abax335
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Don't believe there is a bleed screw on them but I'd be worried if the procedure isn't starting it won't pump when its running.

you don't hear it running or you don't see a stream ? It will run for 12 minutes.

But yea heat on highest temp, make sure auto and ac are off on the that car and fan speed is on slowest.
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      10-26-2015, 09:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abax335 View Post
Don't believe there is a bleed screw on them but I'd be worried if the procedure isn't starting it won't pump when its running.

you don't hear it running or you don't see a stream ? It will run for 12 minutes.

But yea heat on highest temp, make sure auto and ac are off on the that car and fan speed is on slowest.
Yeah pump never starts running. Makes no sense. A/c and auto are off. Temp is at max. Fan is at lowest speed.
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      10-26-2015, 09:48 PM   #4
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What did you do to the car ?

Hard to say, you can try starting the car and see if you get anything moving in the reservoir.

If the fan kicks 100% probably have a pump issue.
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      10-26-2015, 10:06 PM   #5
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Are you sure you're in the correct "ignition on" position?
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      10-27-2015, 04:57 AM   #6
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Did you pull the codes to make sure DME is communicating with the water pump? Depending on what you did, you could have broken a wire, blown a fuse, or don't have the water pump connector fully plugged in.
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      10-27-2015, 11:08 AM   #7
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Looks like the electric water pump was dead. I used my INPA software to read the error codes and attempt cycle the pump on directly from the program. Still no movement. Got 2 error codes that indicated no communication with pump and pump speed probs. I also checked the voltage at the pump and all was normal, so I'm assuming no blown fuse. Also disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected the connector to pump.
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      10-27-2015, 03:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RenaissanceMan View Post
Looks like the electric water pump was dead. I used my INPA software to read the error codes and attempt cycle the pump on directly from the program. Still no movement. Got 2 error codes that indicated no communication with pump and pump speed probs. I also checked the voltage at the pump and all was normal, so I'm assuming no blown fuse. Also disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected the connector to pump.
Sorry to hear this... my newly replaced Waterpump died with an 2E82 code about 200 miles after it replaced my functioning waterpump @104k miles just because I already had the subframe down and it was probably a good idea to get it done. Had to tow the car back to the Indy
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      10-27-2015, 04:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RenaissanceMan View Post
Looks like the electric water pump was dead. I used my INPA software to read the error codes and attempt cycle the pump on directly from the program. Still no movement. Got 2 error codes that indicated no communication with pump and pump speed probs. I also checked the voltage at the pump and all was normal, so I'm assuming no blown fuse. Also disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected the connector to pump.
That's not necessarily true. I was stupid and didn't disconnect the battery before replacing mine and ended up blowing a 50A DME fuse, forgetting that the pump is powered even when the car is off. I had the same "can't communicate with the pump" error and I was getting power to the pump connector (tested with a a voltmeter). So don't assume the new pump is bad, it can still be a fuse as it was in my case. The problem is there are multiple fuses. I'd tell you what ones to check but I have a 535i so the fuses are different. I never found the right fuse myself, ended up having it towed to my local indy who discovered which one had blown (one I hadn't thought to check, believe in the DME box).
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      10-27-2015, 05:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJtoad View Post
That's not necessarily true. I was stupid and didn't disconnect the battery before replacing mine and ended up blowing a 50A DME fuse, forgetting that the pump is powered even when the car is off.
What exactly did you do to blow the fuse? Did you short the connector or something similar?
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      10-27-2015, 06:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RenaissanceMan View Post
What exactly did you do to blow the fuse? Did you short the connector or something similar?
Exactly. Pushed the connector out of the way with a tool and 'zap'. I thought everything was fine since I still had power to connector on the appropriate pins according to the Bentley manual and didn't know I had a problem until I tried to perform the bleed procedure. After a long, unsuccessful day of trying to track down the problem, I finally threw in the towel and had it flatbedded to my indy a few miles away. Had the car back the next day, but I was $150 or so poorer.
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      10-28-2015, 09:49 AM   #12
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Quick update: I replaced the water pump and thermostat last night and everything is working normally again.
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