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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > what should be replaced @ 60k miles on a 328i?



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      05-14-2012, 04:17 PM   #45
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Your to do list is an overkill in my opinion.

- Spark Plugs are due at 45k and its very likely they were replaced under BMW's maintenaince program (mine were replaced). If your injectors are bad (making ticking noise) then you want to take care of them. Otherwise you're good.
- ATF is due at 100k miles. You are only at 60k. So you are good for another 40k miles. Replace differential fluid when you'd replace ATF.
- Coolant should be good at 60k.
- Water Pump - You're good until it dies.
- Brakes and Rotors - Check your CBS indicator or until you're having issues with brake in genral (I recommend R1 concepts rotors and Axxis or even stock brake pads).
- Belts - Are they making noise at start up? If not, keep driving
- Power Steering Flush - Not needed
- Brake Fluid - Every 2 years or as indicated by CBS

So only thing you really need is probably cabin filter and engine oil/filter.
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      05-14-2012, 05:27 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmer_335 View Post
Your to do list is an overkill in my opinion.

- Spark Plugs are due at 45k and its very likely they were replaced under BMW's maintenaince program (mine were replaced). If your injectors are bad (making ticking noise) then you want to take care of them. Otherwise you're good.
- ATF is due at 100k miles. You are only at 60k. So you are good for another 40k miles. Replace differential fluid when you'd replace ATF.
- Coolant should be good at 60k.
- Water Pump - You're good until it dies.
- Brakes and Rotors - Check your CBS indicator or until you're having issues with brake in genral (I recommend R1 concepts rotors and Axxis or even stock brake pads).
- Belts - Are they making noise at start up? If not, keep driving
- Power Steering Flush - Not needed
- Brake Fluid - Every 2 years or as indicated by CBS

So only thing you really need is probably cabin filter and engine oil/filter.
I'm sorry but I'm not too sure what you mean by ATF? But thank you for responding, I just recently got my oil filter and am waiting for my change. Would I really need the cabin filter though? I usually have my windows rolled down all the time and the nonly time I use my heater for my feet and hardly my AC
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Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-14-2012, 05:59 PM   #47
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Op has a 328 not a 335

Op has a 328 not a 335
If you go with the BMW recommendation for a 328 you wouldn't change the spark plugs till 100k.
Some of the responses on here sound like the guys work for BMW or drank the BMW coolaid.
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      05-15-2012, 01:51 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Op has a 328 not a 335
If you go with the BMW recommendation for a 328 you wouldn't change the spark plugs till 100k.
Some of the responses on here sound like the guys work for BMW or drank the BMW coolaid.
I hear that if you wait til 100k, it'll seiize to the threads. I might just check to be safe. But thank you, I get what you mean. But their help seems to be swaying me to check things I haven't even thought of yet
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Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-15-2012, 07:36 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmer_335 View Post
Your to do list is an overkill in my opinion.

- Spark Plugs are due at 45k and its very likely they were replaced under BMW's maintenaince program (mine were replaced). If your injectors are bad (making ticking noise) then you want to take care of them. Otherwise you're good.
- ATF is due at 100k miles. You are only at 60k. So you are good for another 40k miles. Replace differential fluid when you'd replace ATF.
- Coolant should be good at 60k.
- Water Pump - You're good until it dies.
- Brakes and Rotors - Check your CBS indicator or until you're having issues with brake in genral (I recommend R1 concepts rotors and Axxis or even stock brake pads).
- Belts - Are they making noise at start up? If not, keep driving
- Power Steering Flush - Not needed
- Brake Fluid - Every 2 years or as indicated by CBS

So only thing you really need is probably cabin filter and engine oil/filter.
It's pretty accepted in the enthusiast community that BMW's service intervals are too long. If someone's buying a car as a "keeper" and not just for a couple of years it needs better than the minimum. Fluids break down as well as hold contaminants and wear material in suspension. They no longer work properly and in some cases can actually become abrasive. Keep in mind that most cars on the road which follow the BMW maintenance intervals still have the BREAK IN fluids in there. It's also beneficial to keep fresh fluids in place because they keep the systems seals in proper condition - plump and compliant.

I come from DIY ownership of a 1998 E39 which I kept in top notch condition. Those of us who own the older cars can more easily see the difference in long term reliability when "old school" maintenance intervals are followed. Those with newer platforms may not have discovered this for themselves...yet.

Every time I change a fluid on an "overkill" schedule, I feel an improvement in the operation of that system (MT, diff, transmission, brake, clutch, whatever). Obviously the fluid properties have changed from the original properties and a replacement was due. Sure you aren't going to "feel" a coolant change but if the pH or anti-electrolysis additives are used up you can actually have your head and block being eaten from the inside out - I've seen it before.

Quality fluids aren't all that expensive - take care of your expensive equipment.

I have a 328i that I've just recently purchased with around 60k mi on it. Unfortunately BMW intervals were used but it was the best car I found in weeks of searching and I couldn't look around any longer.
  • the spark plugs were not changed by BMW and it has some rough start issues. Plugs are on the way before I chase issues any further
  • the power steering fluid looks nothing like it's original colour and the pump groans from time to time (CHF-11S is on its way)
  • the shifting is notchy and I think I can hear a slight whine from the diff. The transmission output shaft seal is leaking slightly (just enough to attract dust to the rear of the transmission) - fluid is on the way
  • the oil drain plug had a black varnish coating on the inside surface as if it had black paint on it - factory oil change intervals at work. At least the valve train looks clean. I changed the oil right away, will do another short interval change, and then continue to change twice as often as BMW recommends (probably twice per year).
  • every time I've changed AT fluid on a BMW the shift quality improves. Every time I've changed a pan filter it was filled with clutch wear material
  • I tested my coolant with some coolant test strips and the pH had moved to the borderline of "OK" and it was more brownish in colour than fresh BMW coolant. Replaced.
  • you cannot determine the condition of a belt by listening to it. You must remove it, flip it inside-out and look for cracks. If there's substantial cracking when bent in reverse it must be replaced. A belt system can be perfectly silent until the day it breaks.
  • I replaced the brake/clutch fluid and the feel of both improved noticeably

If you've just bought a "new" used car you plan to keep, do a nose-to-tail fluid change unless it came with clear records indicating that this was already done. Ditto for plugs, belt (depending on mileage) etc... You don't need to change the brakes just because you got a new car - just look at them to determine wear, if they're rusty and if they appear to be operating properly based on the appearance of the swept area of the rotor. If they're fine, wait until they wear out but bleed fresh fluid through.

On water pumps - I have to say the E90's electric pump makes me a little nervous in that it can fail with no warning at all. With the older mechanical pumps usually there is weeping, or noise, or shaft play that you can watch out for. They also cost 1/10th of what the E90 pump costs so preventive replacement was not a financial hardship. I believe my 02/2007 production 328i has "second generation" electric pump so perhaps I'll be lucky. I also plan to eventually get a good scanning system like BT or AE so I'll be able to look for the slightest sign of "soft codes" about the water pump.

I would also suggest a quality, by-the-book (i.e. weight ballast in the seats) four wheel alignment if it has never been done. These cars often/usually come wrong from the factory let alone after 60k on the road.

OP: Enjoy your "new" 328!

Last edited by Surly73; 05-15-2012 at 02:11 PM.
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      05-15-2012, 01:39 PM   #50
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It's nice to see a thread with a lot of positive feedback and contribution. Sticky? :P
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      05-15-2012, 02:07 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
It's pretty accepted in the enthusiast community that BMW's service intervals are too long. If someone's buying a car as a "keeper" and not just for a couple of years it needs better than the minimum. Fluids break down as well as hold contaminants and wear material in suspension. They no longer work properly and in some cases can actually become abrasive. Keep in mind that most cars on the road which follow the BMW maintenance intervals still have the BREAK IN fluids in there. It's also beneficial to keep fresh fluids in place because they keep the systems seals in proper condition - plump and compliant.

I come from DIY ownership of a 1998 E39 which I kept in top notch condition. Those of us who own the older cars can more easily see the difference in long term reliability when "old school" maintenance intervals are followed. Those with newer platforms may not have discovered this for themselves...yet.

Every time I change a fluid on an "overkill" schedule, I feel an improvement in the operation of that system (MT, diff, transmission, brake, clutch, whatever). Obviously the fluid properties have changed from the original properties and a replacement was due. Sure you aren't going to "feel" a coolant change but if the pH or anti-electrolysis additives are used up you can actually have your head and block being eaten from the inside out - I've seen it before.

Quality fluids aren't all that expensive - take care of your expensive equipment.

I have a 328i that I've just recently purchased with around 60k mi on it. Unfortunately BMW intervals were used but it was the best car I found in weeks of searching and I couldn't look around any longer.
  • the spark plugs were not changed by BMW and it has some rough start issues. Plugs are on the way before I chase issues any further
  • the power steering fluid looks nothing like it's original colour and the pump groans from time to time (CHF-11S is on its way)
  • the shifting is notchy and I think I can hear a slight whine from the diff. The transmission output shaft seal is leaking slightly (just enough to attract dust to the rear of the transmission) - fluid is on the way
  • the oil drain plug had a black varnish coating on the inside surface as if it had black paint on it - factory oil change intervals at work. At least the valve train looks clean. I changed the oil right away, will do another short interval change, and then continue to change twice as often as BMW recommends (probably twice per year).
  • every time I've changed AT fluid on a BMW the shift quality improves. Every time I've changed a pan filter it was filled with clutch wear material
  • I tested my coolant with some coolant test strips and the pH had moved to the borderline of "OK" and it was more brownish in colour than fresh BMW coolant. Replaced.
  • you cannot determine the condition of a belt by listening to it. You must remove it, flip it inside-out and look for cracks. If there's substantial cracking when bent in reverse it must be replaced. A belt system can be perfectly silent until the day it breaks.
  • I replaced the brake/clutch fluid and the feel of both improved noticeably

If you've just bought a "new" used car you plan to keep, do a nose-to-tail fluid change unless it came with clear records indicating that this was already done. Ditto for plugs, belt (depending on mileage) etc... You don't need to change the brakes just because you got a new car - just look at them to determine wear, if they're rusty and wear they appear to be operating properly based on the appearance of the swept area of the rotor. If they're fine, wait until they wear out but bleed fresh fluid through.

On water pumps - I have to say the E90's electric pump makes me a little nervous in that it can fail with no warning at all. With the older mechanical pumps usually there weeping, or noise, or shaft play that you can watch out for. They also cost 1/10th of what the E90 pump costs so preventive replacement was not a financial hardship. I believe my 02/2007 production 328i has "second generation" electric pump so perhaps I'll be lucky. I also plan to eventually get a good scanning system like BT or AE so I'll be able to look for the slightest sign of "soft codes" about the water pump.

I would also suggest a quality, by-the-book (i.e. weight ballast in the seats) four wheel alignment if it has never been done. These cars often/usually come wrong from the factory let alone after 60k on the road.

OP: Enjoy your "new" 328!
Actually, I've had my 328I since it came out, it was a new car and still first owner but I just want to do a full maintence because I actually wanna keep the car forever lol and when I mean forever I mean like old folks keeping 1967 mustangs from the let out date. If I need a motorswap by then, ill do so but I just wanna keep this motor as top shape as possible being that I race a lot and most of the time, its a literal uphill battle. I see that my rear rotors and pads need to be replaced soon. But do I technically need a new brake sensor? I understand that some bbks don't use sensors being as it doesn't fit or is not compatable with the system. I tend to check my brakes pretty often now since I've been "on my own" (without warranty) and I started noticing a lot of things more now. I just wish that our parts were cheaper instead of an arm and a leg for simple thingssuch as an oil filter (bmw dealership price is 26 bucks) and a clutch is around 4 k at the dealership. I will probably bevome tischer's best customer starting now because their prices are unbelieveable comparing to the dealerships. But thank you for your insight, it is going to be very very helpful!
Quote:
Originally Posted by JT_Munkey View Post
It's nice to see a thread with a lot of positive feedback and contribution. Sticky? :P
I'm suprised that it jumped off this much, even though it isn't. 10 pages long, it still has very crucial information
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-15-2012, 02:24 PM   #52
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This is an example of what I meant by inspecting the serpentine ribbed belt:

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/ser...57/#post488507

The cracking isn't always visible until removed and bent in reverse.
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      05-15-2012, 02:35 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
Actually, I've had my 328I since it came out, it was a new car and still first owner but I just want to do a full maintence because I actually wanna keep the car forever lol and when I mean forever I mean like old folks keeping 1967 mustangs from the let out date.
Here's what my maintenance intervals were like from my E39. If I were buying a new BMW, I would still follow this to keep it pristine. Yes, they're a little excessive, but I'm a fairly low mileage driver (9-10k mi per year) and I DIY so the cost isn't really a big deal.
  • oil change every 10k km (6k mi) which is 6 months for me. I did lab analysis of the used oil every 2-3 changes to check for excessive wear, contaminants (like coolant) and confirm that the additive pack (for things like acid-fighting) were still good under these conditions
  • brake/clutch fluid annually
  • coolant every 2-3 years
  • transmission and diff fluid every 2 years
  • "turkey baster" change steering fluid every oil change (no need to pull a drain bolt and "flush" if you are constantly renewing the fluid)
  • cabin and engine air filters every couple of years
  • plugs every 40-60k mi I'd say
  • If AT, fluid change every 50k km (30k mi) at most. Pan drop and filter replacement first time and every other time after that. In reality I would probably drain/replace every two years - the AT cars belonged to family not me personally

Quote:
I see that my rear rotors and pads need to be replaced soon. But do I technically need a new brake sensor? I understand that some bbks don't use sensors being as it doesn't fit or is not compatable with the system. I tend to check my brakes pretty often now since I've been "on my own" (without warranty) and I started noticing a lot of things more now.
AFAIK the sensor is a $15-20 item. If the sensor isn't "tripped" you technically don't need to replace it, but they tend to get brittle, may break when you try to move them to the new pads, and might simply fail out in the field. I usually just bought new ones. I also replaced the pin guides every 60k miles just to keep things tight (another cheap item).

Quote:
I just wish that our parts were cheaper instead of an arm and a leg for simple thingssuch as an oil filter (bmw dealership price is 26 bucks) and a clutch is around 4 k at the dealership. I will probably bevome tischer's best customer starting now because their prices are unbelieveable comparing to the dealerships. But thank you for your insight, it is going to be very very helpful!


I'm suprised that it jumped off this much, even though it isn't. 10 pages long, it still has very crucial information
No need to go to the dealer for all parts. Check out places like AutohausAZ.com. Learn was OES/OEM parts are and use more of those, especially if you DIY. They are the same thing, just a lot less expensive. You'll learn from the DIY community that some brands are better than others. On my E39, you wanted to make sure to get Lemforder suspension parts instead of Meyle, Karlyn, Febi even though they were all technically "Original Equipment Supplier" brands. For other parts from the steering on 540s TRW were the best. The Lemforder parts I used were absolutely identical to the BMW parts and the BMW logo had been ground off of the castings.

Filters, pads, rotors, bushings, suspension arms, end links etc...etc... are easily found at OES suppliers for a fraction of dealer cost (even good dealers).
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      05-15-2012, 05:26 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
This is an example of what I meant by inspecting the serpentine ribbed belt:

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/ser...57/#post488507

The cracking isn't always visible until removed and bent in reverse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly73 View Post
Here's what my maintenance intervals were like from my E39. If I were buying a new BMW, I would still follow this to keep it pristine. Yes, they're a little excessive, but I'm a fairly low mileage driver (9-10k mi per year) and I DIY so the cost isn't really a big deal.
  • oil change every 10k km (6k mi) which is 6 months for me. I did lab analysis of the used oil every 2-3 changes to check for excessive wear, contaminants (like coolant) and confirm that the additive pack (for things like acid-fighting) were still good under these conditions
  • brake/clutch fluid annually
  • coolant every 2-3 years
  • transmission and diff fluid every 2 years
  • "turkey baster" change steering fluid every oil change (no need to pull a drain bolt and "flush" if you are constantly renewing the fluid)
  • cabin and engine air filters every couple of years
  • plugs every 40-60k mi I'd say
  • If AT, fluid change every 50k km (30k mi) at most. Pan drop and filter replacement first time and every other time after that. In reality I would probably drain/replace every two years - the AT cars belonged to family not me personally



AFAIK the sensor is a $15-20 item. If the sensor isn't "tripped" you technically don't need to replace it, but they tend to get brittle, may break when you try to move them to the new pads, and might simply fail out in the field. I usually just bought new ones. I also replaced the pin guides every 60k miles just to keep things tight (another cheap item).



No need to go to the dealer for all parts. Check out places like AutohausAZ.com. Learn was OES/OEM parts are and use more of those, especially if you DIY. They are the same thing, just a lot less expensive. You'll learn from the DIY community that some brands are better than others. On my E39, you wanted to make sure to get Lemforder suspension parts instead of Meyle, Karlyn, Febi even though they were all technically "Original Equipment Supplier" brands. For other parts from the steering on 540s TRW were the best. The Lemforder parts I used were absolutely identical to the BMW parts and the BMW logo had been ground off of the castings.

Filters, pads, rotors, bushings, suspension arms, end links etc...etc... are easily found at OES suppliers for a fraction of dealer cost (even good dealers).
wow... i never thought of the belt actually cracking like that! My only worry is not taking the belt off, more or less, it's putting it back on correctly. I don't have an AT, I have manual so what's the oil change intervals on that? i heard that every 60k is good on almost every car. My friend tends to change his oil every month (about 4k miles) just to keep his car @ maximum potential. I see it as an over kill but how his car runs in the canyons, the proof is in the paint. I need to start doing brake and clutch fluid flushes, now that Im really not sure about. As with power steering and everything else of that nature. I can only do simple things as change my brakes and rotors and my own oil. you can basically say im a rookie when it comes to DIY but im willing to learn. And about the BPS, do you happen to know the part number? I think if i just code it to not read the pads itself it wont be too much of a bother anymore. Where could i buy new pin guides? ill definitely start trying to find OES so i could start being more intouch with my car. thank you for all of your help!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-15-2012, 06:08 PM   #55
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I think its been mentioned but if you definitely want to keep the car forever, you should contact Mike Miller and get his old school maintenance schedule. Its a super comprehensive list of just about everything you should or shouldn't do for long term maintenance.

His email is: AUSPUF2002 at aol dot com.

It may even be an automated response because I sent an email and pretty much instantly received the pdf file. Tons of good info.
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      05-15-2012, 07:11 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by velvetaudio View Post
I think its been mentioned but if you definitely want to keep the car forever, you should contact Mike Miller and get his old school maintenance schedule. Its a super comprehensive list of just about everything you should or shouldn't do for long term maintenance.

His email is: AUSPUF2002 at aol dot com.

It may even be an automated response because I sent an email and pretty much instantly received the pdf file. Tons of good info.
Are his books/guides free? Could you forward me his manual? My email is fheng3293@gmail.com
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-15-2012, 07:30 PM   #57
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Are his books/guides free? Could you forward me his manual? My email is fheng3293@gmail.com
Just sent you an email and for anyone else interested, its totally free. He has a copyright on it so he asks that it isn't posted as he is constantly updating it, but if you shoot him an email he will send it to you no questions asked.
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      05-15-2012, 10:41 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by velvetaudio View Post
Just sent you an email and for anyone else interested, its totally free. He has a copyright on it so he asks that it isn't posted as he is constantly updating it, but if you shoot him an email he will send it to you no questions asked.
Thank you sir!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      05-17-2012, 08:54 PM   #59
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So I just changed the diff fluid on my ~65k 328i. It didn't look mortifying but it was solid glitter when visible in the sunlight. My 6 y/o daughter could have done crafts with the used fluid.

The new fluid is Amsoil SVG (Severe Gear 75W90). On the test drive the whole rear end of the car is noticeably quieter. Now I need to get to the 6MT and the noisy alternator bearing and I'm all set.

I really, really want to get the 6MT fluid changed, but the rear transmission seal is leaking just enough to attract dust to the rear of the transmission. I have ~1yr left on a third party extended warranty which is in the process of being transferred from the previous owner to me. I'm not sure I want non-OEM fluid in there if I get it repaired under that warranty (seal replacement). On the other hand, fresh fluid may clean and recondition the seal (especially if I used Redline) and no repair may be necessary.

I noticed a little bit of dampness on the diff near the seal too. My overmaintained E39 which always had fresh fluids never had a single leak of any kind except for the PS fluid cap o-ring and they all do that....
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      06-07-2012, 04:34 PM   #60
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I hear that if you wait til 100k, it'll seiize to the threads. I might just check to be safe. But thank you, I get what you mean. But their help seems to be swaying me to check things I haven't even thought of yet
My 330i was at 97k when I replaced them, id highly recommended not to go that far, mine where pretty bad and in my personal opinion it puts stress on coils. I'm going to do 50k besides some ngks are cheap not big deal.
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      06-08-2012, 06:53 PM   #61
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My 330i was at 97k when I replaced them, id highly recommended not to go that far, mine where pretty bad and in my personal opinion it puts stress on coils. I'm going to do 50k besides some ngks are cheap not big deal.
I've been broke lately and thought of just waiting til 67000 miles before replacing them, is that still good? Or would it do a lot of harm to wait?
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I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      10-09-2012, 07:01 PM   #62
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I put 2400 miles / month. I have 57k since February 2011. I do oil changes every 7500miles. but have not touched any fluids until finding the bavauto checklist posted on here. Do i have special fluid change requirements since I do high mileage?
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      10-10-2012, 08:00 AM   #63
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I just want to say, i really appreciate this thread. It has motivated me to have everything checked. Had my 06 since 08 and snout to hit 100k. I want to have this car forever.
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      10-10-2012, 01:58 PM   #64
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I put 2400 miles / month. I have 57k since February 2011. I do oil changes every 7500miles. but have not touched any fluids until finding the bavauto checklist posted on here. Do i have special fluid change requirements since I do high mileage?
I would say just check the coolant, brake fluid, and possibly the transmission/ rear diff. fluids around 60k, they should be fine but it doesn't hurt to check
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I just want to say, i really appreciate this thread. It has motivated me to have everything checked. Had my 06 since 08 and snout to hit 100k. I want to have this car forever.
I never thought this thread would help this much, I'm glad its helping you as well!
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I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      10-11-2012, 05:04 AM   #65
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I love this thread. I am canceling my warranty with BMW now they have replaced my Turbos and I need to be on top of things to prevent failures. I have a good indie but I will try and do most things my self.
I have just filled out the Bavarian Otto’s Ultimate Maintenance Schedule...

I am at 64,000 miles and 6 years old. My car has been in and out for servicing for BMW...
Everything honestly looks fine and they haven't brought anything up that requires attention.

Is it worthwhile sorting the following?
Fuel filter
Accessory drive belts
Coolant hoses
Oxygen sensors

I think I need to do my automatic transmission fluid, BUT do you think they changed that when the dropped my engine out the car to do my turbos?

Btw what is a charcoal canister....

Thanks for all who have contributed to this thread.
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      10-11-2012, 11:15 AM   #66
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I love this thread. I am canceling my warranty with BMW now they have replaced my Turbos and I need to be on top of things to prevent failures. I have a good indie but I will try and do most things my self.
I have just filled out the Bavarian Otto’s Ultimate Maintenance Schedule...

I am at 64,000 miles and 6 years old. My car has been in and out for servicing for BMW...
Everything honestly looks fine and they haven't brought anything up that requires attention.

Is it worthwhile sorting the following?
Fuel filter
Accessory drive belts
Coolant hoses
Oxygen sensors

I think I need to do my automatic transmission fluid, BUT do you think they changed that when the dropped my engine out the car to do my turbos?

Btw what is a charcoal canister....

Thanks for all who have contributed to this thread.
I am guessing that you have an n54 ? Well the usual thing that everyone says to check on n54s are the fuel and water pump ( around 70k and 100k), check the fuel filter at 100k, the drive belts around 60k and once again at 100k, o2 sensors (oxygen) at 100-150k and I'm not to sure about coolant hoses, id say check every yearor signs of cracking.

I doubt they changed your transmission oil for kicks, bmw is very cheap and didn't even want to change my break-in fluids when I bought the car. I forgot where I read but at 1500, the dealership has to do a complete flush of all fluids to get all the metals out of the engine, transmission, and differential. Bmw's transmission oil is for a "lifetime" but in car terms, that means 100k. Just make sure when you do change your oil though, you add a few drops of mineral oil and a few drops of assembly lube in your rear diff. Oil stabilizer works too
Btw, I have no clue what a charcoal canister is lol
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I'm going to use a very simple analogy, I hope you'll understand.
Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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