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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > Rear rotor replacement



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      05-24-2012, 05:54 PM   #1
zyce
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Rear rotor replacement

Okay guys, since i had alot of trouble with these brakes, and other people have had these problems aswell I was up to make a tutorial of it.
This is my first one but I hope it's good and it helps you with your problems or just works as a good guide to doing it right.
( if there are some english language mistakes I appoligies. i'm from Belguim and I'm not the best in English)

Step one:
Get all the tools you need before you start!
A lug nut wrench for the tires
A 7 mm allan key
A 16 mm socket + ratchet
A flathead screwdriver
and a car jack and or jack stands but I just use my tire for safety since I don't have jack stands.


Step two:
Remove the wheel and place it under the car for extra Safety.


Step three:
Remove the caliper spring(if ur replacing the pads aswell)


Step Four:
Remove 2 bolts behind the calipar that is holding it into place.
and take off the calipar.



Step Five:
Now take the 7 mm allan key and unscrew the hex nut on the calipar.


Step Six:
Now to remove the ROTOR from the HUB and it's NOT comming off or loose this is what u do: U take a big hammer and u start smakking the sh*t out of it and use some wd-40 and spray it on there.
If the rotor Gives way But it's STILL STUCK on the HUB ur next problem will be that the PARKING BRAKE SHOE is STUCK on the inside(make sure the parking brake is off offcours) To remove this you will need a flat head screwdriver and there is a small star wheel on the insde of the hub that u can rotate on it's not that hard to find if u know where it is !( DON'T FORGET TO ROTATE THE STAR WHEEL BACK WHEN THE NEW ROTOR IS ON)
so here is a picture showing you how it can be found.



Step Seven
Now that the old rotor is off place the new one on and screw back the hex nut.
And mount the Calipar back into it's Original place.
and you shoud be done !


And here my example of the war with the brakes that woudnt come off but in the end ... I won

This is my first DIY I hope you guys can Use this and will help you out so You don't have the have the same problems i did spending 5 hours on 1 brake


Grtz Marco
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      05-24-2012, 06:30 PM   #2
335okc
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thanks for the diy, which way do you rotate the star gear to loosen it?
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      05-25-2012, 02:08 AM   #3
zyce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335okc
thanks for the diy, which way do you rotate the star gear to loosen it?
For me it was rotating up
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      05-29-2012, 06:13 PM   #4
kiwi29
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Do you know how to remove the parking brake shoes since you were also back there?
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      05-30-2012, 08:45 AM   #5
Surly73
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It should be noted that the "star" rotation to loosen it depends on which side of the car you're on. If these aren't loosened properly there's going to be serious issues getting the old rotor off.

It would also be an excellent time to wire brush the hub/bearing before mating the new rotor or any corrosion on the surfaces will result in the rotor not mating properly and wobbling, thus making the whole wheel assembly wobble. A very thin coat of anti seize (not enough to fling off into the p-brake) would also be a good idea. Some anti-seize where the wheels mate too will make sure that wheels never get overly attached. These are issues particularly in salty regions.

The opposing star wheel adjustments, along with the rest of the standard BMW p-brake adjustment procedure seems to be fairly well documented here:

http://www.csfrancis.net/BMW/pbdiy.pdf

Note there are adjustments at the p-brake handle as well.
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      12-19-2013, 12:41 PM   #6
jdbunda
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Just did this project myself, both axles, and this was very helpful. I did run into a couple issues that were not covered here.

1. My rotors were so worn, there was a lip at the outer edge of the rotor that the caliper didn't want to come off over. On the rears, I was able to pry against the pad with a big screwdriver to get them off. For the fronts, I had to crack the bleeder open to allow the caliper to open enough to clear the lip.

2. My car came with the original OEM rotors, which were not coated, and they were rusted pretty well to the hub. The Allen head rotor attach screws came out easily, but still the rotors would not just slide off like they do in all the videos, they were going nowhere. I used penetrating oil, then a block of wood and a big hammer to knock them loose.

Great write-up and pics, thanks.
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      12-19-2013, 11:07 PM   #7
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Okay. Please, please, please, anyone who reads this DIY. THIS IS NOT THE PROPER WAY TO WORK ON A CAR. NEVER NEVER NEVER WORK ON A CAR SUPPORTED BY A JACK (OF ANY TYPE). Lift the frickin car using a proper floor jack using the center jack points and then set the car on four (4) jack stands located at the four (4) lifting points on the rocker panels.

This was extremely dangerous.
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