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      10-13-2015, 04:51 AM   #1
austin
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DIY Intake manifold 1/4" vacuum nipple install

This is my first attempt at writing up a DIY for any of my activities over the years, so please don't hesitate to ask for more info/clarity.

There may be a DIY here for this already, but I didnt find it.

Please be careful when following any DIY, and before attempting this read through the instructions and make sure it's something you're comfortable with.

Sorry I didnt take more pics, I needed to get the job done as fast as i could this time.

If you've swapped your stock DV's out for a TiAL BOV like I have, you will want to do this fairly simple mod. In the spring pressure chart from TiAL it states that anything less than a 1/4" line to the manifold will result in reduced response time, and that is exactly what I experienced. I also have an evo 8 with the older 50mm TiAL so it was immediately apparent to me that it was not only delayed but venting less than it should.

After completing this, I couldnt be happier with the valve. I highly recommend that anyone installing the TiAL Q do this mod at the same time. The valve opens nearly instantaneously and vents as it should. It's a bit louder because of this, but still not as loud as a Synapse or HKS valve.

There are other DIYs for the BOV/CP install, and its very simple anyhow so I won't get into that, just the manifold removal and mod.


Just to be safe, unplug the negative terminal on the battery before starting.
No need to jack the car up to do this.

First, the intake manifold should be removed to avoid allowing any bits of plastic to get into the engine and to make it easier to drill and tap for the new fitting. So, that's where I'll start.

1. Remove your cowl, microfilter, intake, engine cover and charge pipe, and zip tie the wire looms out of the way to make room for pulling the manifold out. At this point you may notice a depressing amount of oil in your intake system, and begin planning your OCC install. Should look like this when you're here.


2. Remove these two connectors.
-The one on the oil filter housing is an oil pressure sensor. It was not attached in any way to the manifold, but it makes more room to get the manifold out without damaging anything.
- On the oil sensor, just push that little metal clip down against the plug with your thumb and slide the plug off. No need to pull the clip up or remove it.


3. (optional) Remove the throttle body. I tried getting the little electronics box off the bottom of the manifold without removing it, but it's much easier with the throttle body off. (sorry no pics of this)

-First unplug the vacuum line on the firewall side
-Unplug the electrical connection underneath it. This was annoying at first, but just slide a small screwdriver between the male and female parts on the underside of the plug and it should slide off fairly easily. This might be easier to remove once the TB is off so you can see it better.
-Remove the 4 10mm hex screws holding it in place and it should just fall off.

note: If you do not remove the TB, you'll still need to remove the plug on the bottom and the vacuum line.

4. Remove the little black box from the bracket under the manifold. It just slides off, but it will put up a fight. I slid a small screwdriver under the loop closest to the engine to help. This pic is obviously after the manifold was removed, but it gives a good view of the black box I'm talking about.


5. Grab a deep 11mm socket and remove the 6 hex nuts, and the one hex bolt securing the manifold to the cylinder head.

6. Remove the manifold. I had to push on the rear inlet a little to get the manifold to clear the circled pcv thing. Other than that just try not to get it snagged on the vacuum lines and wires near the oil filter on it's way out.


Once the manifold is out make sure to plug the intake ports so no debris can fall in.

7. Cut off the manifold's existing plastic nipple with whatever you have at your disposal. then cut/file off the little block of plastic that was bracing it on the top side.

Be VERY careful not to cut into the intake plenum. Take your time.

The details from now on depend a bit on your choice of fittings. I used this guy, its a 1/4" barb with 1/8"-27 NPT threads I had sitting around the shop.


8. You'll need to drill a hole to be tapped for the fitting. I used an "R" bit, but an 11/32 will work just fine.

9.Tap the hole with a 1/8-27 NPT tap
-Clean up the inside of the hole with a small file or deburring tool to make sure no burrs are left that could fall into the manifold later.
-I used a drum grinder to make some room for the hex part of the fitting.
-Use some sandpaper to rough up the area around the hole to ensure that your epoxy or JB weld will adhere to it well.

Here's what mine looked like, and the deburring tool I used in case you don't know what I meant. This is before I hit it with the drum grinder for clearance.


10. Apply 2 part epoxy or JB weld to the threads of your fitting and install it into the manifold. I then spread a little more around the outside of the fitting just for some security.


keep whatever excess mixed up adhesive you have off to the side, that way you dont have to touch the stuff around the fitting to check if it's cured.

If you used epoxy, you won't be waiting long, maybe like 5-10 minutes depending on which kind you used. If you used JB weld, you can install the manifold, but I wouldnt run the car until it has completely cured. If I remember correctly JB weld takes like 24 hours.

Once it's cured, clear the manifold of any plastic that fell into it. An air hose helps, but you can do this just by being meticulous with rags and cleaning solution. Clear every port, check everywhere inside for debris.

Installation is reverse of removal.

When installing the manifold and throttle body, clean off the rubber seals and the surface they'll be mating to first. Carb or brake cleaner can dry out some rubber seals, and I dont know what material this is so i would suggest something else. I also like to put a very light film of grease on the rubber seals just before installing.

Torque specs for reassembly:
Throttle body to intake manifold- 8nm / 70 in-lb
Intake manifold to cylinder head- 15nm / 11 ft-lb

Now enjoy your BOV working as it should!
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      10-14-2015, 11:19 AM   #2
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Simple enough

Thanks for the DIY man! I will be doing this for sure once I get my charge pipe setup.
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      10-16-2015, 02:29 PM   #3
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Any chance you can do a video clip of how the TiAL sounds now?
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      10-18-2015, 09:42 AM   #4
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As the nipple has threads a corresponding nut can be found somewhere.
Better install the nipple with nut and gasket. Do not use glue. Epoxy appears to be strong but only at room temperature. In the engine bay it gets very hot and the glue softens allowing the nipple eventually to just popp off under charging pressure.

Give it a try: Mix up some epoxy, let it cure. Now apply some heat with a hair dryer and see what you get
If you use more heat (heat gun) the epoxy will get as fluent again as the resin it was before.
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      10-19-2015, 03:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteblue View Post
As the nipple has threads a corresponding nut can be found somewhere.
Better install the nipple with nut and gasket. Do not use glue. Epoxy appears to be strong but only at room temperature. In the engine bay it gets very hot and the glue softens allowing the nipple eventually to just popp off under charging pressure.

Give it a try: Mix up some epoxy, let it cure. Now apply some heat with a hair dryer and see what you get
If you use more heat (heat gun) the epoxy will get as fluent again as the resin it was before.
If someone were to use a nut and gasket I'd just use a straight thread pipe fitting with an o-ring and a nut on the backside. But, I might also put the fitting in a flat spot of the manifold instead. The manifold is not very thick, and I'd be wary of clamping even a small flat surface on one of it's contours.

Besides that, if you do decide to put a nut on the other side make sure you either use a different kind of adhesive, a threadlocker, or a locking nut. Because now you have something inside the manifold capable of falling off and making its way into an intake port.

Good point about the epoxy though, I hadnt thought of that. I bet JB weld would be more resilient to heat. I'm going to look up specs for the epoxy I used, but I imagine the intake manifold would actually stay cooler than other parts in the engine bay because of the charge air passing through it all the time.

I think I'll get it hot, run it hard and then pull over and give the epoxy a feel. I'll let you guys know how it goes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmertt View Post
Any chance you can do a video clip of how the TiAL sounds now?
Yeah some time this week I can make a sound clip. Wish I had a vid with the original vac line, but honestly it would probably have been hard to hear.
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      10-22-2015, 11:08 AM   #6
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What did you use to cut the plastic nip? did you just cut it off flush with the manifold to drill out the larger hole?
Thanks
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Last edited by Jarronbwall; 10-22-2015 at 12:12 PM.
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      10-22-2015, 04:05 PM   #7
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Thanks for this write up, just had to do this.
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      10-22-2015, 09:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WEBY View Post
Thanks for this write up, just had to do this.
No problem man, glad it helped.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarronbwall View Post
What did you use to cut the plastic nip? did you just cut it off flush with the manifold to drill out the larger hole?
Thanks
I just used a hacksaw to get the nip off, then used a small cutting wheel to get rid of that square block of material that was like a brace for it, then files and sandpaper to clean it up. There are many ways you could do it depending on what you get get at your disposal though. You could probably just use a small saw to get everything off.

But like i said, be very careful not to take off too much material and weaken the manifold.



And FWIW I tested the rigidity of the epoxy after both running it hard, then after letting it idle a while. In both cases it was still very hard, so I'm going to leave it as it is for the time being. That said, it wouldn't be a bad idea to find something that calls out a higher resistance to heat.. at least 250 maybe. Shouldnt ever get that hot on the manifold but it couldn't hurt.

Been really busy at school, but when I have a chance I'll make that sound clip.
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      08-26-2016, 07:34 AM   #9
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Anyone try this instead?

https://store.034motorsport.com/quic...um-nipple.html

Perhaps used with an O ring or gasket - seems like a good solution?
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      08-26-2016, 08:41 AM   #10
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Cheers for this, used it a while back


^ not the best looking but should do its job

^ epoxy applied and sealed
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      08-26-2016, 08:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlovesm View Post
https://store.034motorsport.com/quic...um-nipple.html

Perhaps used with an O ring or gasket - seems like a good solution?
well this would have made life very easier... haha remember i went to like 10 stores to get all the equiptment just to tap this thread and get the right fitment.. was so annoying.
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      08-26-2016, 12:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlovesm View Post
https://store.034motorsport.com/quic...um-nipple.html

Perhaps used with an O ring or gasket - seems like a good solution?
Yeah that looks perfect for this, thanks for sharing. I might grab something like that and replace the nipple I put in when I have my manifold off for my OFHG soon. And yeah I would use an o-ring or gasket with it, or maybe just use an adhesive sealant.
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      08-26-2016, 12:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335gc View Post
Cheers for this, used it a while back

Looks good! glad I could help.
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      04-06-2017, 04:41 PM   #14
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Figured I'd give an update on this little fitting. I've had it on nearly 2 years now, and it hasn't budged or leaked a bit at around 16 psi. Not to say there isn't a better fitting option, including the one mentioned above. But, if it's all you have around to make a quick fix, it should hold up just fine for a long time.

I also still like that this fitting is entirely external, meaning that if it were to fall apart, it is very unlikely that it would get pulled into the manifold. Worst case scenario it'd just fall into the engine bay causing a boost leak, and i'd replace it.
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      04-13-2017, 11:37 PM   #15
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Where's a good place locally to pick up a fitting to do this?

My ER charge pipe and Tial BOV are coming next week.
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      04-14-2017, 10:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by austin View Post
Figured I'd give an update on this little fitting. I've had it on nearly 2 years now, and it hasn't budged or leaked a bit at around 16 psi. Not to say there isn't a better fitting option, including the one mentioned above. But, if it's all you have around to make a quick fix, it should hold up just fine for a long time.

I also still like that this fitting is entirely external, meaning that if it were to fall apart, it is very unlikely that it would get pulled into the manifold. Worst case scenario it'd just fall into the engine bay causing a boost leak, and i'd replace it.
I just read this thread (i.e. not 2 years ago). I had to laugh at the Poster who said epoxy softens at engine bay temperatures. He doesn't understand what epoxy is. It is a thermo-setting (catalyst) adhesive where the heat used to cure the material comes from the chemical reaction from the catalyst. Ambient heat, once the epoxy sets, has no affect on the properties of the material.

Also, if the nipple used is NPT (National Pipe Thread) there is no corresponding "nut" that would (properly) work to hold the nipple in the hole in the manifold. NPT is a tapered thread type, meaning there is a taper to the threads cut into the pipe. So I agree with you, your solution prevents the possibility of the nut falling off inside the manifold and being ingested by one of the cylinders.

Last year, I replaced my VCG on the '06 N52. I broke the stupidly-designed vent pipe going to the oil separator. I fixed the vent pipe by cleaning it with acetone and denatured alcohol, then epoxying a 1/2 copper water pipe butt joint connector inside the vent pipe. A year later, it's just fine and working as good as the day I jury-rigged in in April 2016; I used JB Weld - love that stuff.
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