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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > N54 Water Pump



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      05-31-2012, 12:57 PM   #23
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DIY DIY DYI DIY!! lol

hope i dont need it soon.... still running on original water pump and thermosthat...90K
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      05-31-2012, 12:59 PM   #24
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this might help http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=water+pump
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      05-31-2012, 01:15 PM   #25
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Thanks crazylegs! I will save this thread in case I need it.
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      05-31-2012, 01:33 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
DIY DIY DYI DIY!! lol

hope i dont need it soon.... still running on original water pump and thermosthat...90K
Not sure if the N54 and N52 water pumps are the same but here's a DIY for an N52: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565770

EDIT: The part numbers are definitely not the same, but the install procedures should match.

Last edited by BoostedE90; 05-31-2012 at 01:40 PM.
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      05-31-2012, 05:55 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by ETS Michael View Post
I could see how this could screw someone over. Especially with the limp mode during rush hour or on the freeway where you have no shoulder.

Yes it could screw you over, but it can also help your car in the long run.

Think about it, since its an electric waterpump there are various things that tell the driver there is something wrong. Sometimes a CEL, limp mode, coolant light, or temp light. Yes it is an inconvenience for sure. However, imagine if you had a car with a mechanical waterpump. The warnings are not always the same, if any at all (depending on the car, year etc) So it could be MUCH MUCH worse.
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      05-31-2012, 05:59 PM   #28
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Mine went out @ 35K miles aprox.
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      05-31-2012, 06:11 PM   #29
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This thread is making me nervous, mine hasn't yet, but I'm at 41k miles.
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      05-31-2012, 06:12 PM   #30
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136k on the original pump, but my car has been freakishly reliable.
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      05-31-2012, 06:41 PM   #31
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136k on the original pump, but my car has been freakishly reliable.
Dang! I hope I can join you...I am at 90k miles so far...
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      05-31-2012, 09:16 PM   #32
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Hi Guys just wanted to know how often the N54 water pump fails,if this is a common issue and if BMW have come up with a fix for that.
Cheers.
Mine just failed last week at 40K .. I understand the pump will fail as its is a mechnical/electric part but 500 for the new part is effin nuts.. also its seems like the life of the pump is like 4 years max. Overall it is not a reilable part at ALL.
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      05-31-2012, 11:32 PM   #33
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got the pump out today.. Everything is smooth sailing until you get to the point of removing the clamps on the hoses. It's roulette on which direction they put the clamp, mine happen to be in a very awkward spot.

I have pictures all the way up to the point of getting the clamps off. Once you hit that point it's a free for all. Than it goes back on the same way it comes off.

Bottom bolts on the water pump are cake, the top 1 bolt is a pain, but it's super easy to move the radiator fan out of the way and take off the intercooler. Than you have all the room in the world to get to the top bolt. I will post up pictures tomorrow once i'm all finished.

I purchased Thermostat, Water Pump and 3 new bolts. 1 of my bolts was missing from the bottom though.

I would say the job should take less than 4 hours total. Less if your clamps are easily accessible. Also i recommend draining the radiator fluid before you pull off one of the hoses or it's shower time.

Michael
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      06-01-2012, 11:39 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETS Michael View Post
got the pump out today.. Everything is smooth sailing until you get to the point of removing the clamps on the hoses. It's roulette on which direction they put the clamp, mine happen to be in a very awkward spot.

I have pictures all the way up to the point of getting the clamps off. Once you hit that point it's a free for all. Than it goes back on the same way it comes off.

Bottom bolts on the water pump are cake, the top 1 bolt is a pain, but it's super easy to move the radiator fan out of the way and take off the intercooler. Than you have all the room in the world to get to the top bolt. I will post up pictures tomorrow once i'm all finished.

I purchased Thermostat, Water Pump and 3 new bolts. 1 of my bolts was missing from the bottom though.

I would say the job should take less than 4 hours total. Less if your clamps are easily accessible. Also i recommend draining the radiator fluid before you pull off one of the hoses or it's shower time.

Michael
Thank you Michael. Congrats on your water pump replacement. Although I have N52 engine not sure if its that big difference between the procedures. Keep us posted with the pics. TGIF!
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      06-01-2012, 12:55 PM   #35
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ETS Michael. No need to remove the fan or intercooler. All you need to do to get enough room is unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the sway bar bushings to the frame. it will drop it down enough so you can pull the pump and thermostat out.

I hear you on the clamps. Its easiest to take the T stat out first, this gives you much more access to the clamps for the pump. That one clamp towards the top of the Tstat sometimes is positioned funny. If you cant get at it, leave it attached, unbolt the Tstat from the pump, this will allow you to twist the Tstat and you will be able to get at it no problem. Obviously you are done, but a tip for next time

Also a swivel 1/4 6mm with long extensions and a swivel E-Torx with a long extension makes life MUCH easier!
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      06-01-2012, 12:57 PM   #36
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How did you get to the top bolt on the water pump? did you put it back in?
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      06-01-2012, 01:57 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETS Michael View Post
How did you get to the top bolt on the water pump? did you put it back in?
You need to fully remove the Thermostat first. Once the Tstat is out of the way its an almost straight shot with an extension and swivel to the top bolt, I think its either an E10 or E12 for those Torx bolts. I always put all the bolts back in
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      06-01-2012, 02:34 PM   #38
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I tried tackling this on a N54 X drive model and it was ROUGH! The AWD really gets in your way and makes this job very difficult. It probably isn't too bad on the RWD cars, but still a very time consuming effort and very confined space.
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      06-01-2012, 02:35 PM   #39
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Your a ninja man. I tell you what.t That thermostat didn't seem like it wanted to come out w/o the pump coming out first.I'm just glad it's 1/2 way over.
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      06-01-2012, 05:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Your a ninja man. I tell you what.t That thermostat didn't seem like it wanted to come out w/o the pump coming out first.I'm just glad it's 1/2 way over.
Always take the Tstat out first

To make matters worse, in the dealership field, warranty only pays us around 1.5-1.9 hrs depending on if its RWD or AWD!
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      06-01-2012, 05:27 PM   #41
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Man.. I would pay 2 hours of labor to have it done
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      06-01-2012, 05:37 PM   #42
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Did mine on an xi last weekend, 76k miles, it was a bit of a pain and the procedure is slightly different for it. On the xi it is 100% necessary to remove the fan and shroud (two bolts), the FMIC (2 bolts, 2 clamps), remove the sway bar (4 bolts on 2 brackets, then disconnect from endlinks), I removed front bumper, it is MUCH easier with it off (assorted bolts in fender liners and under lip), remember to first pull out the headlight washers to remove the painted covers. Then the power steering loop needs to be pulled over the bracket to get it out of the way (2 bolts). We then removed the T stat from its clamps which were a bit hard to access but it is doable with extensions and swivels, drained the coolant out from there (and into my hair...)and then reached up and unbolted the e torx bolts to remove the pump. Reassembly is the reverse. Use new aluminum bolts.
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      06-01-2012, 06:38 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratplaya06 View Post
Did mine on an xi last weekend, 76k miles, it was a bit of a pain and the procedure is slightly different for it. On the xi it is 100% necessary to remove the fan and shroud (two bolts), the FMIC (2 bolts, 2 clamps), remove the sway bar (4 bolts on 2 brackets, then disconnect from endlinks), I removed front bumper, it is MUCH easier with it off (assorted bolts in fender liners and under lip), remember to first pull out the headlight washers to remove the painted covers. Then the power steering loop needs to be pulled over the bracket to get it out of the way (2 bolts). We then removed the T stat from its clamps which were a bit hard to access but it is doable with extensions and swivels, drained the coolant out from there (and into my hair...)and then reached up and unbolted the e torx bolts to remove the pump. Reassembly is the reverse. Use new aluminum bolts.

It is not 100% necessary to remove the fan or IC at all, nor the bumper on an XI. Everything is accessable from underneath. Only things that have to come off are the lower plastic main shield, the metal shield that bolts to the subframe, and the 4 sway bar bushing bolts, endlinks do not need to be unbolted and the swaybar stays in the car. Trust me I have done this replacement MANY times.

This is the 2nd time I heard of someone taking the bumper off, I do not know know why. The Tstat and pump come out the bottom directly in front of the subframe, only need to lower the sway bar down about 1/2 inch.
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      06-02-2012, 06:07 AM   #44
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BMW water pumps have always sucked, but at least the old ones were both cheap and super easy to replace. Now they are expensive and unholy painful to change, especially without a lift - I would definitely pay the 2 hours at the dealer if that is all they would charge off warranty!
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