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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Cannot find the Golf Tee Mod for 335i



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      07-26-2007, 02:09 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperM3 View Post
You squeeze the metal clip against the connector. However, You DONT want to do this mod this way. This will throw codes and possibly set off your Service Engine Soon light.

DO THIS MOD WITH THE BALL BEARING!!!
I've had this done for a few weeks w/o a the service light coming on. Thanks for the heads up though.
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      07-26-2007, 07:52 PM   #200
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Used the ball bearing method and it works great, but for some reason i guess it just feels to me that the car seems slower...I guess with all that added noise when you do a WOT it just feels different then with the divertor on...The car makes less noise and JETS!!! I know this is only my opinion and my mind is probably playing games but i went back to the original setting...
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      07-26-2007, 11:15 PM   #201
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I have tried yet another approach to this modification. This approach allows it to be turned on or off with the turn of a valve. I bought the small valve at Home Depot in the sprinkler section. It is used with 1/4 inch drip systems. It could initially only be closed when the engine was off or had been running long enough for the solenoid to close and shut off the vacuum at idle. After driving on the freeway for a while with the valve closed I noticed at an idle the diverter was rattling a bit at idle since the valve did not seal perfectly and there was some vacuum on the diverter diaphragm closing it partially. This may also be occurring with the ball bearing or cable tie mods also if they do not seal perfectly. The solution was to do as Orb suggested and punch a small hole with a pin in the hose between the valve and the diverter. This will prevent a vacuum from forming if the valve does not seal completely. If the valve is closed while the solenoid is providing a vacuum the pressure will slowly equalize and the diverter will open. I think the small hole is not enough of a vacuum leak to cause a problem when the valve is open. I will try some more testing this weekend.
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      08-01-2007, 12:34 AM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orb View Post
You will need a 5/32" ball bearing. It should cost $0.08.

You should push/work the ball right up to the frame hose clip which it can't pass.

If you do place the hose back on the valve then you should pin prick (2-3 times) the hose past the ball bearing towards the exhaust valve. This also applies to caps!! You will need to do this as changes is ambient temperature may create a vacuum and positive pressure.

Orb
i'm confused, mainly due to my stupidity, but do you want the ball near where you disconnect the tube (distal), or more proximal/front of the tube?
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      08-01-2007, 05:22 AM   #203
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as close as possible to the valve nipple. you can use the nipple to press the ball into the tube.
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      08-01-2007, 07:23 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinkoh View Post
i'm confused, mainly due to my stupidity, but do you want the ball near where you disconnect the tube (distal), or more proximal/front of the tube?
You must be a doc. Anyhow, 1. place it near the distal or end part of the tube where you disconnect it from the nipple, and 2. you don't have to use a ball bearing; I plugged the hose with a proper size screw, screwing it in the end of the hose to seal it...it works great!
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      08-01-2007, 02:31 PM   #205
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Well, I did it. I didn't hear any difference, maybe I did it wrong.

I twisted/wriggled the black tubing out, and placed the 7/32" BB at the end of the tube. I did not need to advance the BB down with a hex or anything. When I inserted the tubing back up, the valve tip pushed it down and the BB was flushed against it.

I hope I did it right.
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      08-01-2007, 02:33 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinkoh View Post
Well, I did it. I didn't hear any difference, maybe I did it wrong.

I twisted/wriggled the black tubing out, and placed the 7/32" BB at the end of the tube. I did not need to advance the BB down with a hex or anything. When I inserted the tubing back up, the valve tip pushed it down and the BB was flushed against it.

I hope I did it right.
you probably have an e90
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      08-01-2007, 02:35 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinkoh View Post
Well, I did it. I didn't hear any difference, maybe I did it wrong.

I twisted/wriggled the black tubing out, and placed the 7/32" BB at the end of the tube. I did not need to advance the BB down with a hex or anything. When I inserted the tubing back up, the valve tip pushed it down and the BB was flushed against it.

I hope I did it right.
Its not like you just put a 3inch straight pipe from the cats back. Most people have a placebo affect and think they hear something. When I did it, I hardly heard anything. I didnt think it was really worth it.
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      08-01-2007, 02:53 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperM3 View Post
Its not like you just put a 3inch straight pipe from the cats back. Most people have a placebo affect and think they hear something. When I did it, I hardly heard anything. I didnt think it was really worth it.
Although it's not a new cat-back exhaust or anything, the moment I did this mod, I heard a significant difference (louder and slightly deeper exhaust rumble); both at immediate start-up and while cruising between 2k-3k rpm. I have an E92 335i Coupe though.
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      08-01-2007, 02:59 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiXst3r View Post
you probably have an e90
Yup. It would be nice to have something little bit louder. Oh well, fun to try though.
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      08-02-2007, 03:47 PM   #210
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I have read just about every page of this thread, but i am a little confused about one thing. I understand that disconnecting the solenoid in the trunk stores an error but does not show a visible error light. But what are the effects of this stored error??
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      08-02-2007, 05:58 PM   #211
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disconnected the cable in trunk .. easy ... sound is better....no errors.
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      08-03-2007, 09:50 AM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTJ View Post
I have read just about every page of this thread, but i am a little confused about one thing. I understand that disconnecting the solenoid in the trunk stores an error but does not show a visible error light. But what are the effects of this stored error??
I don't think anybody has run the cable method for more than a month, so it's speculation at this point. But I think most agree that you shouldn't get a SES or CEL light unless the car detects an emissions problem. That sort of problem, were it to occur, would manifest itself with both the cable method and ball bearing method.

So the only difference is that a BMW technician servicing your car will see faults pertaining to the exhaust flap. Therefore the mod is not "undetectable".
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      08-03-2007, 07:58 PM   #213
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Okay, help me out here.

I just decided to try this mod.
I pulled the rubber hose off the nipple on the drivers side exhaust.
I cut a 1/4 inch long screw off and shoved it about 1/2-3/4 inch up the hose.
I placed the rubber hose back over the nipple.

The screw that I used was snug going up the hose. Required me to use an allen wrentch to shove it up there.

Before doing all this I looked inside the exhaust pipe and noticed the valve was open. After doing the mod, I started my engine noticed no real difference in sound, but decided to look into the exhaust pipe again while the engine was running.
The valve was CLOSED!

I thought this mod was suppose to keep the valve OPEN?

Did I do something wrong?

Thanks

EDIT:

Ok I solved the problem.
Cut off the piece of hose I stuck that screw up and this time used a bit larger screw.
It was harder to shove up into the hose, but got it up there a good 3/4 inch.
Then attached it back onto the nipple.

This time the flap stayed open when I started the car.
Time for the test drive, at idle it seemed 10-15% louder with a bit more burble.
Will report back after the drive.

Last edited by Driver72; 08-03-2007 at 09:19 PM.
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      08-03-2007, 09:25 PM   #214
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does this mod had less of an effect on the e90 335i?
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      08-03-2007, 09:28 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quickshift3r04 View Post
does this mod had less of an effect on the e90 335i?
yes, because the e90 has an exhaust resonator that the e92 does not have. The resonator makes the exhaust quieter even with this mod.
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      08-03-2007, 09:29 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driver72 View Post
Okay, help me out here.

I just decided to try this mod.
I pulled the rubber hose off the nipple on the drivers side exhaust.
I cut a 1/4 inch long screw off and shoved it about 1/2-3/4 inch up the hose.
I placed the rubber hose back over the nipple.

The screw that I used was snug going up the hose. Required me to use an allen wrentch to shove it up there.

Before doing all this I looked inside the exhaust pipe and noticed the valve was open. After doing the mod, I started my engine noticed no real difference in sound, but decided to look into the exhaust pipe again while the engine was running.
The valve was CLOSED!

I thought this mod was suppose to keep the valve OPEN?

Did I do something wrong?

Thanks

EDIT:

Ok I solved the problem.
Cut off the piece of hose I stuck that screw up and this time used a bit larger screw.
It was harder to shove up into the hose, but got it up there a good 3/4 inch.
Then attached it back onto the nipple.

This time the flap stayed open when I started the car.
Time for the test drive, at idle it seemed 10-15% louder with a bit more burble.
Will report back after the drive.
I PM'd you. No need to reattach the hose; plug it with a larger screw, and actually screw it in tightly so it seals the end.
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      08-03-2007, 09:30 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflgator View Post
I PM'd you. No need to reattach the hose; plug it with a larger screw, and actually screw it in tightly so it seals the end.
+1, this is what I will do the second time around, and actually I'll do it in the trunk where the actuator is, not under the car
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      08-03-2007, 09:36 PM   #218
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Quote:
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+1, this is what I will do the second time around, and actually I'll do it in the trunk where the actuator is, not under the car
Why?
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      08-03-2007, 09:50 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiXst3r View Post
+1, this is what I will do the second time around, and actually I'll do it in the trunk where the actuator is, not under the car
Thanks guys.

I solved the problem with a slightly larger screw.
But as I stated, I cut off the fat head part of the screw so I could shove the other end up the hose about 3/4".
Just far enough to leave enough room to reattach the hose back onto the nipple.
That solved the problem and the valve stayed open.

I personally prefer that way to unplugging the electrical actuator.
Plugging the hose "tricks" the system into keeping the valve open.

Unplugging the electrical actuator not only could log an electrical issue on the ECU but seems more likely to throw a code as the system can no longer READ that it's connected to the solenoid that opens and closes the valve.
I'd much rather just take the extra 20 seconds to trick it manually rather than electrically removing or unplugging anything.
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      08-03-2007, 09:53 PM   #220
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BTW, I agree with the people who said the sound increase isn't REALLY noticeable.
I'd say it's 10% louder and deeper.

But to me that's perfect. I liked the fact the coupe's exhaust note was 5-10% deeper and more aggressive than the sedans, and now like it even more that it's another 10% louder and deeper.

Much louder and it gets annoying. Still perfectly subdued when driving gently tho.
Couldn't ask for a more perfect sounding stock exhaust for this car.
Subtly aggressive with just a hint of bark. Kind of like a Lion or Tigers low end growl.

No drone or increased noise when cruising on the freeway at 75 mph. Sweet.
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