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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Random vibrations between 1500-2000rpm (N52)



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      05-11-2014, 01:41 PM   #1
Bangarang_Rufio
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I have an automatic N52 in my 07 328xi. Sometimes when I'm driving and lightly press the gas peddle the front of the car starts to vibrate, shake, shutter for a few seconds and then stops once I give it more gas. It almost feels like when I used to drive stick and was trying to accelerate in too high of a gear. It's been about 10 years since I drove stick so I could be making this up in my head haha. Everytime I look at the rpm's when this happens they are between 1500-2000.

I've had the car for about 2 months now and it's got 75k on it. This issue has been occurring pretty much since I got the car but didn't notice it until I drove off the lot (of course). I brought it from a private dealer which included a 3mo/3k powertrain warrenty but they're about an hour away so I am trying to figure this out on my own first. Especially because those types of warrenties are junk and won't cover anything unless you need your entire engine or transmission replaced.

The car idles fine and I never experiance the above issue from a cold start. It only happen after driving for at least 15-20 minutes and when the oil is at a normal temp. I've waited this long and have looked at endless posts on here of people talking about similar vibrations and shaking at lower rpm's but that seems to be only commonality as everyone else mentions additional symptoms that I am not experiencing. The car runs perfect otherwise and no check engine or SES lights. Not sure about codes because I don't have a scanner yet but figured I'd have a light on if I had a serious code. Not really sure how that all works to be honest.

Here is a list of everything I have done to the car since I got it.

1. Checked intake filter and connections. Found that it contained an oem filter and was basically brand new. Did not replace.

2. Checked cabin air filter since this service light was on to replace it. It was dirty so I replaced it with an oem filter from bav auto. (Figured this has nothing to do with the issue but just mentioning it anyway)

3. Checked tire pressure. Was set to 38psi on all 4. Reduced all 4 to 34psi. (Brand new kumo all season non run flares by the way). Rims are oem 17".

4. Pulled apart intake box again and cleaned MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner. Also did a charcoal delete while I was at it.

5. Installed BMS powerbox yesterday for performance reasons only.

If anyone has any input on what the problem is and how to fix it, it would be greatly appreciated! Especially if you have experianced this exact problem without any additional symptoms as described in other similar posts.
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      05-11-2014, 03:04 PM   #2
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Also I forgot to add this issue happens at varying speeds. I've noticed it anywhere from 15-65mph.
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      05-12-2014, 07:35 AM   #3
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I hate doing this but I'm desperate. Bump.
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      05-12-2014, 08:48 AM   #4
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I had these symptoms when I fueled up with crap petrol once because I was late for work, it would do exactly what you were describing, I didn't realize this as the time but I called my Indy and he asked if I changed fuel, I said yes, then was told to run the car dry and fill up with what I always do (98 premium) my car just gotten so use to the food fuel that the computer didn't know how to compensate, maybe the guy who had it before was filling up something different I don't know, long shot but o guess you can try, hope it works out bro!
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      05-12-2014, 09:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjf430
I had these symptoms when I fueled up with crap petrol once because I was late for work, it would do exactly what you were describing, I didn't realize this as the time but I called my Indy and he asked if I changed fuel, I said yes, then was told to run the car dry and fill up with what I always do (98 premium) my car just gotten so use to the food fuel that the computer didn't know how to compensate, maybe the guy who had it before was filling up something different I don't know, long shot but o guess you can try, hope it works out bro!
Yeah I was thinking along those lines at first too. I have been filling up with BP 93 which is the highest I can get around here. I ran it dry several times and fillies it up to be safe. I have also added a 12oz bottle of the Techron fuel cleaner consentrate to an empty tank then filled up to 12 gallons as recommended on the label. I've done this twice now with the latest one last week. I'm dumb founded right now that I can't figure this out.
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      05-12-2014, 09:18 AM   #6
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Coils and plugs?
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      05-12-2014, 09:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzo23 View Post
Coils and plugs?
Not sure if the previous owner had them done or not. I brought the car with a little under 74k and I haven't opened everything up to get to them yet. I read a DIY on how to get to them and seemed a little out of my league when it comes to getting into the engine. I've gotten a lot better with learning about engines and maintenance in the last few years and I just put a PBX in the other day so maybe I'm under estimating myself and shouldgive it a shot and check. The car starts up perfectly and the idle is good starting at 1000rpm and then down to 600 after a minute. If the plugs or coils were bad wouldn't I have a problem here as well? Just basing that off some other threads I've read but I really have no idea otherwise.
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      05-12-2014, 09:49 AM   #8
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Try this: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486201

Don't necessarily replace them, but pull them and clean them. I've used just compressed air, and MAF Cleaner and compressed air a different time. And by compressed air, I mean an actual air compressor with a high psi output nozzle. Blast all of the oil and sludge out of it.

I'm surprised you don't have any codes, but I got an Engine Check light combined with the symptoms you're describing, and this fixed it. Now I do it when I change the oil to be proactive. It's about a 5-10 minute process, free, and doesn't drip anything, even with the oil in the engine.
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      05-12-2014, 09:54 AM   #9
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After owning 2 N52's, one to 100k and the other to 43k youre getting close to that mileage where plus and coils could play a role in it. BUT youre correct that if its smooth at idle and 600-1k then it might not be them. Try cleaning your vanos. Only other advice I have for you is start putting money to the side for future repairs, oil leaks from the valve head cover and oil filter housing, plugs, coils, water pump, thermostat, brakes, and fluid flushes. its all coming up.
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      05-12-2014, 11:42 AM   #10
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Are you sure it's not from the drive train?

Sounds like your guibo is getting worn. Takes a couple min to check underneath the car, the rubber will be frayed and cracked if its the problem.
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      05-12-2014, 12:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alarbus View Post
Try this: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486201

Don't necessarily replace them, but pull them and clean them. I've used just compressed air, and MAF Cleaner and compressed air a different time. And by compressed air, I mean an actual air compressor with a high psi output nozzle. Blast all of the oil and sludge out of it.

I'm surprised you don't have any codes, but I got an Engine Check light combined with the symptoms you're describing, and this fixed it. Now I do it when I change the oil to be proactive. It's about a 5-10 minute process, free, and doesn't drip anything, even with the oil in the engine.
I saw that DIY and was thinking of giving that a shot. I've never done something like that and wanted some feedback from others that had the same issue as me to see if that did the trick. Thank you for mentioning that. It's good to know that worked for you. Just curious, were you experiencing any other symptoms (besides check engine light) or was it just the symptoms as I described?

Quote:
Originally Posted by benzo23 View Post
After owning 2 N52's, one to 100k and the other to 43k youre getting close to that mileage where plus and coils could play a role in it. BUT youre correct that if its smooth at idle and 600-1k then it might not be them. Try cleaning your vanos. Only other advice I have for you is start putting money to the side for future repairs, oil leaks from the valve head cover and oil filter housing, plugs, coils, water pump, thermostat, brakes, and fluid flushes. its all coming up.
I think I'm going to try cleaning the vanos first because that seems like an easier next step in the diagnosis. If that doesn't work then checking the plugs and coils will be my next step unless anyone can tell me exactly what is going on. Thank for the advice! That's all great stuff to keep in mind. The brakes were all done by the dealer before I bought the car so they're good for a while but I have no idea if any of the other stuff was recently done because the carfax only showed reported maintenance from the BMW dealer up to about 50k. I figured that is when the free maintenance period ended. Based on the first 50k service mentioned in the carfax is seemed that the previous owner (only 1) did a great job keeping up with everything so I only assume he did the same for the next 25k with an indy shop that does not report to carfax, before he traded it in.
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      05-12-2014, 12:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stupenal View Post
Are you sure it's not from the drive train?

Sounds like your guibo is getting worn. Takes a couple min to check underneath the car, the rubber will be frayed and cracked if its the problem.
Honestly I'm not sure. I am open to any suggestions here. I only know that the vibrations/shaking symptoms are being generated from the front of the car. I think the weirdest thing here is that it only happens once the car is warmed up with the oil temp between 210-230ish. It has never happened when the engine is still "cold". Just an observation I've made while trying to nail down the problem. By the way, never heard of the "guibo". Not going to lie, at first I read that as "Guido" LOL. I'll do some searching to educate myself on that one.
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      05-12-2014, 12:59 PM   #13
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Okay did some searching and I am now educated on the guibo. I will add that to my list of things to check when I'm done work today.
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      05-12-2014, 03:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangarang_Rufio View Post
I saw that DIY and was thinking of giving that a shot. I've never done something like that and wanted some feedback from others that had the same issue as me to see if that did the trick. Thank you for mentioning that. It's good to know that worked for you. Just curious, were you experiencing any other symptoms (besides check engine light) or was it just the symptoms as I described?

I did have a check engine light, but the throttle was sluggish and it vibrated a bit at certain RPMs. It's been a while, so my memory isn't going to be very accurate. That said, it definitely felt "off" once or twice before throwing the engine light.
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      05-12-2014, 03:52 PM   #15
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If this problem as anything to do with the previous owner using crap low octane fuel and somehow the ecu got screwy and is not recognizing that I am using 93 now, is there a way to reset the ecu to start fresh? Would disconnecting and reconnecting the battery work? If so, is there any weird drawback from doing this?
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      05-13-2014, 12:10 PM   #16
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if it occurring at a certain rpm at various speeds, then guibo is unlikely. it will rotate at a fixed ratio to the actual speed you are going.

if it is an actual chassis vibe(vs an engine issue) I would also look at your engine and trans mounts.


and yes, if you have a proper diagnostic tool or obd cord with software you can reset adaptations in your dme. and yes, it can make a noticeable difference in the way the engine runs(although not sure in your case).

and change your transmission fluid and reset trans adaptations. maybe your torque converter is acting up.
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      05-13-2014, 08:28 PM   #17
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Update: yesterday I didn't have the time to do much since I worked later than expected so did the quick transmission adaptation reset using the following steps.

(NEVER TOUCH BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL STEP 7)
1. Insert key
2. Press start button once
3. Hold down gas pedal for 30 seconds
4. Without releasing gas pedal press the Start button once
5. Release gas pedal
6. Wait 2 minutes
7. Start car normally

This also reset my powerbox to map 0 so I just drove for about 30 mins but still got the same symptoms when the engine got warm. Pulled over and set PBX back to map 3 and continued driving with the same result.

Today I had more time so I pulled the vanos solenoids and cleaned both of the them with CRC MAF cleaner and the put them back into the opposite slots. I saw this as a suggestion on other threads. Toughest part of that whole job was getting the darn screws back in due to tight quarters. Car started up with still no check engine lights on which was a good sign I didn't screw anything up I started to drive and first thing I noticed after going about a 100 yards was the car felt VERY sluggish while accelerating. I kept driving figuring the oil just needed to flow through everything for a minute. After a couple minutes of driving that went away and all of the sudden I felt this amazing throttle response like I haven't felt since I got the car except technically after installing the PBX. But this was even more to say the least. Didn't get a chance to drive enough to get the engine completly warmed up so I will check back tomorrow after my hour drive to work and see if this did the trick.
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      05-14-2014, 05:44 PM   #18
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Update #2: I drove for a good hour going to and from work today. I did not experiance the issue going to work even with car warmed up. Coming home 8 hours later however, I DID experiance the issue when the car warmed up. Oil temp gauge showed temp between 230-240. Was driving in steady moving traffic with occasional spurts getting up to 50mph or so. Did not run AC at all.

Back to the drawing board. So I have come to conclusion that this problem is 100% due to SOMETHING warming up. Let's examine that and look at the possibilities. Oil, AT trans fluid, brakes, air intake temp, or new vanos solenoids needed maybe? Anything else I'm not thinking of that this car could be affected by when warmed up that would cause a vibration on light acceleration? Again still not getting any SES or CEL lights.
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      05-15-2014, 02:47 PM   #19
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Any additional input would be greatly appreciated here If the vanos solenoids were bad would I get CEL or SES lights?
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      05-16-2014, 10:33 AM   #20
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Bueller...anyone...Bueller...
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      05-18-2014, 07:51 AM   #21
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bump
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      05-19-2014, 05:28 PM   #22
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Help...I'm ageing 1 year for every day I go without being able to figure this problem out from the stress! I don't care if you're an expert, DIY'er, master mechanic, or if you just stayed at a holiday inn express last night. I could use the input
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