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      06-29-2012, 03:06 PM   #1
badfish718
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Help. Rusted Bolts on Downpipe Removal

Hey guys, started installing my VRSF dp's last night, went out and got a jack, jackstands, and creeper set after cleaning out the garage and figured I would give it a go.

Had a tough time getting the upper O2 sensors off but eventually they broke loose. Moved on to removing the 4 bolts that connect the stock downpipe to the midpipe and well, they are very corroded to say the least.



The nuts require a 12mm socket, but after trying for an hour on the lower two the 12mm is not even catching anymore. The upper two are not as rusted as the lowers but they still won't budge.

Yes- I have sprayed the hell out of them all with PB Blaster and let them sit for 12 hours.

At this point I know I can do this install, I don't want to let 4 rusty bolts cost me $300 to have a shop install the DPs.

You guys have any ideas? I've read that heating with a torch is the best way, but I'd really like to avoid that if possible....
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      06-29-2012, 03:25 PM   #2
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Cut them off with a die grinder.
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      06-29-2012, 03:59 PM   #3
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Just keep trying, if it breaks then buy a tool for removing broken bolts.
Or just hammer it out(with a screw driver)
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      06-29-2012, 05:11 PM   #4
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Liquid wrench for a starter? Then monkey wrench?
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      06-29-2012, 06:08 PM   #5
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Cut it off. You may be able to use a Dremel as well.
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      06-29-2012, 07:50 PM   #6
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Cut them off.

Or hammer on an impact socket and hit it with an air gun. No matter what you do, they are going to most likely snap. They are replaceable though if you ever want to put the stockers back in
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      06-30-2012, 05:11 AM   #7
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I would also suggest cutting them off by whatever means. I always go to a hardware store and replace fasteners especially nuts/bolts for exhaust with grade 8 hardware.
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      07-01-2012, 10:12 PM   #8
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EDIT: OP just realized you have an 07 335i, which has an N54 engine so you're posting this thread in the wrong section of the forum

Blow torch. I had the same problem: the bolts connecting the OEM DPs (which use studs on the N54 DPs) were in a similar condition & no matter what we did, we couldn't loosen them up. The mechanic go fed up & took a blow torch just to the bolt. After heating it up, the bolt expanded & loosened itself up from the corrosion + stud.

**Just make sure to not heat up the stud, then the bolt + stud will expand together and then you won't be able to remove the bolts
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      07-01-2012, 10:38 PM   #9
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Sorry for posting this in the N55 section, mods please move it to the N54....eventually i let out a caveman shriek gave it hell and the bolt broke, same thing for the second one. I had to wrap my legs around the wheel for leverage. Was 99% finished with this nightmare install, went to tighten final bolt on the rear vband clamp and saw it was too low to get a socket on it. now can't reattach the band. i have been under this car for the past 4 days, please someone just come kill me.

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      07-02-2012, 07:50 AM   #10
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sorry to hear this...just brutal. DIY nightmare.
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      07-02-2012, 08:17 AM   #11
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Lol at the caveman shriek but yeah, thats a bitch to do on an N54!
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      07-02-2012, 08:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badfish718 View Post
Sorry for posting this in the N55 section, mods please move it to the N54....eventually i let out a caveman shriek gave it hell and the bolt broke, same thing for the second one. I had to wrap my legs around the wheel for leverage. Was 99% finished with this nightmare install, went to tighten final bolt on the rear vband clamp and saw it was too low to get a socket on it. now can't reattach the band. i have been under this car for the past 4 days, please someone just come kill me.

The bolt or stud broke?? If the stud broke, that OEM DP is useless now. If it's the bolt, who gives a shit
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      07-02-2012, 09:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzy89 View Post
The bolt or stud broke?? If the stud broke, that OEM DP is useless now. If it's the bolt, who gives a shit
I need to take a look at the OEM's again, the way things have been going I am sure they are ruined! Went at it again last night round round 4. I have a extra board of sheet rock in my garage, lets just say I now have 2 smaller boards of sheet rock today

I eventually got the vband clamped again, thought my problems were all over but went to re-connect the DP to the midpipe and they just wouldnt line up. When I readjusted the DP to line up with the midpipe holes, but the clamp would not tighten enough to screw closed. I would think its a fitment issue but like I said earlier I did have it fully attached at one point, so not really sure what I need to do now.

Would it be safe to drive with one of the DP's separated from the midpipe? Just to try and get it to a mechanic at this point...or do i need a tow?
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      07-02-2012, 10:11 AM   #14
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From a performance standpoint it'd be okay to drive around with just the DPs on (prob be very loud and droning out the azzzz). BUT I wouldn't want to drive very far, just in case by freak chance a rock or something git kicked up into the DP + hits the turbo.

Have you tried loosening up the mid-pipe bracket, and then wiggling the DPs around + seeing if that'll get things to line up? When we did my Akras (which use studs), we basically had to slide the CBE back a couple inches for everything to line up. Huge pain in the ass, but it was the only way we got everything to bolt-up leak free.
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      07-02-2012, 11:10 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzy89 View Post
From a performance standpoint it'd be okay to drive around with just the DPs on (prob be very loud and droning out the azzzz). BUT I wouldn't want to drive very far, just in case by freak chance a rock or something git kicked up into the DP + hits the turbo.

Have you tried loosening up the mid-pipe bracket, and then wiggling the DPs around + seeing if that'll get things to line up? When we did my Akras (which use studs), we basically had to slide the CBE back a couple inches for everything to line up. Huge pain in the ass, but it was the only way we got everything to bolt-up leak free.
I have the mid-pipe bracket off per all the DIY's I came across. Do you mean getting another bracket off more towards the rear of the car?
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      07-02-2012, 11:18 AM   #16
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buy a dremel
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      07-02-2012, 11:33 AM   #17
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This guy


You might need a second set of hands: have 1 person line up the DPs while the other pulls back on the midpipes to free up some space. Obviously this is A LOT easier on a lift, so be careful if your car is on jacks & not rhino ramps (don't want to unbalance the car).


Just to Confirm: The VRSF DPs are finally in (now that you were able to get the rusted bolts off), but you're having trouble lining up the DP to Midpipe connection AND the V-Band clamp on one of the DP to Turbo Connections isn't 100% tightened.
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      07-02-2012, 11:55 AM   #18
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haha yea i have that guy off.

and yes the Rusted bolts are off, the long pipe is fully bolted up and ready, sensors and all. the shortpipe, at one point last night, was in the v-band clamped to the turbo but would not align with the holes on the mid-pipe. if i maneuvered the DP to line up with the midpipe holes, there became about a 2mm space between the DP and the turbo and it would not clamp tightly enough to bolt it closed. it could only be connected properly at one end at a time.

right now the DP is not connected to either, i tried rotating it and the clamp came off. i gave up trying to re-attach the v-band and both my arms are black and blue today lol, i will get it back on later though.

hope i explained this well enough and thanks so much for the help man
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      07-02-2012, 12:26 PM   #19
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The Short DP is a bitch, between the Long Pipe being installed & the shitty angle it's really a pain to get it installed. You basically need to get the bottom & "closed side" to line up and then slowly tighten it from there -- hopefully the V-Clamp will catch and close the DP-Turbo seal as you slowly tighten it.

This might be another 2-person job
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      07-03-2012, 12:12 PM   #20
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Benzy tried your method but the clamp would not "click". After another 6 hours I have given up!

Currently I have both v-bands clamped and tightened, all o2 sensors tightened up, but only the long pipe bolted in to the midpipe, the short pipe just seems like a bad fit. The holes are about an inch off, I will try to post a picture but I literally have been on this thing for 20+ hours and have tried everything...I'm not a BMW Master Tech but I'm also not a dimwit.. Anyone in the Staten Island area willing to come take a look?
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      07-03-2012, 12:41 PM   #21
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Well it's good that both DPs are 100% installed and bolted in. Get some pics up & maybe we can free up some space
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      07-03-2012, 01:34 PM   #22
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Ok here are a few pics...there is no give in either end once clamped in.




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