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      11-05-2013, 03:16 AM   #2575
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Also congrats to Jay (504medic) for turning multiple 2:07's in a stock TT-S with corded/underwhelming Toyo T1-S tires, LOL. That car is going to be seriously quick with a few modifications.

My friends at TRM were leading the 7 hour race with minutes to spare until a spin + collision with Bimmerworld knocked them out.
Thanks...new tires next week, and maybe an H&R RSB. I guess now is the perfect time to practice drifting. Is there a good parking lot to use for a skid pad?

Looks like from the video, he crossed over into the grass, causing the spin...I have half a mind next time at NOLA to let the pack pull away so I'm by myself, let two wheels go off, and get some practice recovering.
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      11-05-2013, 03:23 AM   #2576
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I was able to meet Jay, ride with both Todd and Ian, and set a new personal best lap time. It was a great weekend and I cant wait to do PCA!
Pleased to meet you too. Great video. Our laps looked pretty similar until you get to turn 4, then you really pull away from the speeds I was carrying. You're about 10mph faster going into and through the esses, and progressively quicker in 14/15/16. Nice run.
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      11-06-2013, 11:38 AM   #2577
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Lesson from Sunday: bald street tires on the rear wheels = better rotation.

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      11-08-2013, 11:10 PM   #2578
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^^ not bad at all man keep it up
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      11-09-2013, 09:49 PM   #2579
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^^ not bad at all man keep it up
Thanks...having watched Ira few times I can see it's riddled with mistakes.

I bought a RSB, which will be installed by the PCA nov/dec weekend, and hopefully by Jan-NASA, I'll be ready for the slicks in my garage. That, plus better braking/throttle control, I think I can get to 2 min flat w/o a tune.
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      11-09-2013, 11:39 PM   #2580
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Thanks...having watched Ira few times I can see it's riddled with mistakes.

I bought a RSB, which will be installed by the PCA nov/dec weekend, and hopefully by Jan-NASA, I'll be ready for the slicks in my garage. That, plus better braking/throttle control, I think I can get to 2 min flat w/o a tune.
Skipping r comps and going straight to slicks?
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      11-10-2013, 04:07 PM   #2581
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Skipping r comps and going straight to slicks?
Sorry, my bad...I have some toto R888s and some Hoosier R6s in my garage, so whichever are most appropriate to experiment with first: after 2-ish more events on streets...and a couple of Chump races I'm planning on doing in Feb/March. (W/Swampshack Maniacs, at Barber and NOLA)

Advice on these things is always appreciated.
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      11-10-2013, 06:57 PM   #2582
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bakeme52I View Post
Skipping r comps and going straight to slicks?
Sorry, my bad...I have some toto R888s and some Hoosier R6s in my garage, so whichever are most appropriate to experiment with first: after 2-ish more events on streets...and a couple of Chump races I'm planning on doing in Feb/March. (W/Swampshack Maniacs, at Barber and NOLA)

Advice on these things is always appreciated.
What car are you doing the chump races in?
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      11-10-2013, 08:41 PM   #2583
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What car are you doing the chump races in?
A 1.8L Honda Prelude...should be quite a change from HPDE.
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      11-10-2013, 08:49 PM   #2584
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A 1.8L Honda Prelude...should be quite a change from HPDE.
Haha it'll be a blast. It'll really teach you about your surroundings that's for sure.

You should notice a descent difference with the RSB but I don't think that car will drift on the street without some snow or serious entry speed. I am not sure of the suspension set up on that car but my moms old S4 and S5 and my cousins B5 S4 had this double wishbone upper control arm O.E set up ($$) and all the force/friction will eat those bearings alive if you try to spin the cars in a parking lot a bunch

Did you find out any information on what you can do alignment wise with the stock suspension? If my suspicion is right and there is room for descent optimization, I see two seconds as the car sits with much more even tire wear vs. the sidewall/outside wear you were having (at the track)

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and i'll be working for you guys. My car isnt finish yet to do HPDE
A stock mini-van with different brake fluid is ready for HPDE !! (no joke)
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      11-12-2013, 06:08 PM   #2585
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Brake Pad advice requested

In August, my first brake upgrade was to switch to Hawk HPS+ up front, and HPS rears...the front pads are ready to be replaced already, and I wanted to find out what the more experienced community here could suggest as the next step in front pads. (I wouldn't mind getting a bit deeper into turns 1&13@NOLA.)

Caveat: this is my daily driver, but I warm them up, and don't mind some squeak. My rotors are ok, but I'll move to slotted once they go.
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      11-12-2013, 06:55 PM   #2586
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Jay it's time for race pads front and rear, and you can't daily drive on these. They can fall a part at cold temps and leave pad deposit on the rotor which gives you that warped/shaking feeling in the wheel when you heat the rotors up and use them

Hawk DTC70/60
Performance Friction 08's
Pagid RS219 (if I remember correctly) they are Yellow's

Money saver?
Hawk HT10 F/R

You'll need to run race compound front and rear. People swear by all these so it's a matter of debate/preference. They all kick ass, and they all will last wayyy longer then a street/track pad. I could've guessed by your lap times it's time to step it up to something that can take the heat

It's kind of annoying to change pads over every event, I did it for 6+ years but once you get the hang of popping the caliper off (I think Audi's require special tools) it becomes a pretty easy/not such a time consuming task.
The alternative is to buy a big brake kit. On my StopTech's it takes 5 minutes to changes both fronts via removing the pad out of the top of the caliper with the wheel on. The stock rears take me roughly 30 minutes though.
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      11-12-2013, 07:28 PM   #2587
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In August, my first brake upgrade was to switch to Hawk HPS+ up front, and HPS rears...the front pads are ready to be replaced already, and I wanted to find out what the more experienced community here could suggest as the next step in front pads. (I wouldn't mind getting a bit deeper into turns 1&13@NOLA.)

Caveat: this is my daily driver, but I warm them up, and don't mind some squeak. My rotors are ok, but I'll move to slotted once they go.
Lol I told y'all that I destroyed HP+ pads in 1 weekend. I again suggest PFC z-rated pads, they should last much longer for you.
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      11-12-2013, 10:13 PM   #2588
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My Z-rated rears are nearly 1/3rd-1/2 way gone after 1 weekend. My HP+ rears lasted 3 weekends, 1 at Road Atlanta but with hotter fronts so they weren't working as hard.

Don't use street pads. In your video you can tell when you transition to the brake pedal you leave some time before you go all in, probably because of fade/lack of feel/lack of confidence @ 125 mph down to 60ish MPH. Race pads will instill some much needed torque to the bottom of your foot to help you out here. I bet with better street tires and race pads you car will will do 130mph before you need to stop for 1
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      11-13-2013, 06:44 PM   #2589
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My pads are pretty worn now, What you reccomend for both street+track? I'm tired of the steering wheel shaking at 60-100.
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      11-13-2013, 10:18 PM   #2590
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My Z-rated rears are nearly 1/3rd-1/2 way gone after 1 weekend. My HP+ rears lasted 3 weekends, 1 at Road Atlanta but with hotter fronts so they weren't working as hard.
Thats because you didn't bed them properly. Also, the HT10 race pads work perfectly fine on the street, arguably as good or better than many street pads. I think Todd can attest to that.

Also, race pads should not have any issue crumbling at low temp and they do not leave deposits unless they are at extremely high temperature, which won't be seen on the street.
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      11-14-2013, 01:13 AM   #2591
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Thats because you didn't bed them properly. Also, the HT10 race pads work perfectly fine on the street, arguably as good or better than many street pads.
Can you explain these two things, mainly how a race pad's functionality is "as good" as street pads, at daily driver temperature ranges?

The car will stop with any type of pad friction, despite 'where they work best' . What you see as 'optimal' for his application is what I think needs explaining.

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Also, race pads should not have any issue crumbling at low temp and they do not leave deposits unless they are at extremely high temperature, which won't be seen on the street.
I've only observed issues of pad deposit. What i've noticed is when people who drive race pads out of range, then suddenly (with a high speed stop) get them at optimal range very quickly, usually more than once, can be followed by issues of pad deposit.


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My pads are pretty worn now, What you reccomend for both street+track? I'm tired of the steering wheel shaking at 60-100.
If you plan on going fast, i'd recommend pads for the track and pads for the street. If you look at graphs good street pads offer a temperature range that's wide, but not optimal for the track for long because the sustained temperatures are at the limits or past the optimal temperature range of the pad (this is why you get reduced feel and fade). Race pads are always optimized for that temperature range and will always work better in those situations. It's a trade off. You can use street pads, and they will stop, but it's not ideal past a certain point
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      11-14-2013, 01:34 AM   #2592
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Can you explain these two things, mainly how a race pad's functionality is "as good" as street pads, at daily driver temperature ranges?
They stop better than my stoptech street pads. That qualifies them to be as good as street pads in my eyes. What else needs explaining? I have done field research and that is my conclusion.
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      11-14-2013, 01:41 AM   #2593
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They stop better than my stoptech street pads. That qualifies them to be as good as street pads in my eyes. What else needs explaining? I have done field research and that is my conclusion.
Ok.
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      11-14-2013, 01:41 AM   #2594
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I've only observed issues of pad deposit. What i've noticed is when people who drive race pads out of range, then suddenly (with a high speed stop) get them at optimal range very quickly, usually more than once, can be followed by issues of pad deposit.
I guess it could depend on the pad, but I don't really agree with this. Are your pads at operating temperature after braking one time into turn 1? I know mine sure aren't. And I don't really see anyone here sprinting to 130 multiple times within a matter of minutes and hard braking.

Do race pads stop better in their defined operating temperature? Of course.

Did I have any issues stoping below the optimal operating temperature and did I notice any loss of pedal feel or stopping power when compared to stoptech street pads? No.


Take my experience with race pads as you please. I still suggest performance friction z rated.
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      11-14-2013, 01:45 AM   #2595
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Are your pads at operating temperature after braking one time into turn 1? I know mine sure aren't. And I don't really see anyone here sprinting to 130 multiple times within a matter of minutes and hard braking.
This is part of the reason why a yellow flag is waving the first lap so drivers can heat stuff up and gradually bring the cars into green flag mode. Nobody goes flat out on the first corner on cold R comps either. When you're on the street, and you decide to stop from 100 and slam on the brakes after driving in traffic, the change in temperature is sudden and can cause pad deposit usually if done repeatedly on a race pad.


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Take my experience with race pads as you please. I still suggest performance friction z rated.
Their great street pads. I got mine on Amazon for $62 shipped.
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      11-14-2013, 01:53 AM   #2596
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This is part of the reason why a yellow flag is waving the first lap. So drivers can heat stuff up and gradually bring the cars into green flag mode. Nobody goes flat out on the first corner on cold R comps either...
That is completely beside the point. The a race pad will not be heated up by stoping from high speed once or even twice. In order for pad deposit to occur, the pads need to be hot enough to transfer the material to the rotor.
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