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      08-13-2012, 10:42 AM   #45
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rite give me you old springs ill get my grinder out and we will get her lower but smooth
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      08-13-2012, 11:56 AM   #46
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holy shit thats slammed lol
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      08-13-2012, 12:09 PM   #47
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Right, off home in the Slammer! Wish me luck!
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      08-13-2012, 12:13 PM   #48
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Good luck!
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      08-13-2012, 01:24 PM   #49
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Got home safe n sound and boyyyyyy am I getting looks left right n centre lol. I can't help think If I was in Non RFTs (given the right damp settings) it would feel smooth as baby's butt lol but RFTS rly do suck. Funny because before lowering I was pleasantly surprised with the ride quality.
Anyways I don't want to spend more on new tyres for now as these are fine for now. When and if I get new alloys which I may do next year, I'll get standard rubber.
For now.. I have to play with the settings and raise it, maybe that will eliminate some of the bumpiness I'm getting. The coils are good bit of kit and with the right settings it mould well be a winner, but getting to that stage will be tough journey.

So far the ride is bumpy and my body is just bouncing all the time LOL but given its slammed, I'm confident with it higher it will improve. Should I adjust the damp thingys to a softer feel or harder? This is done simply by opening the bonnet and turning a dial either anti clockwise or clockwise. Need to look into this though as am a complete beginner lol
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      08-13-2012, 04:36 PM   #50
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Few more pix lol, before it get's raised on Wednes
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      08-13-2012, 04:38 PM   #51
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Way too low rider!!
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      08-13-2012, 05:35 PM   #52
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Thats on its ass, near enough lol. Switching to non RFT will make a big difference. Think you can play with the rebound on those coilies so you can change the damper stroke/length
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      08-13-2012, 05:42 PM   #53
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yeh you can change the damping on them and that should make a big difference mate mate had them on his car n played with them, nerli shattered his teeth on hardest setting haha

could you fit spacers on with it being that low?
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      08-13-2012, 06:15 PM   #54
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yeh you can change the damping on them and that should make a big difference mate mate had them on his car n played with them, nerli shattered his teeth on hardest setting haha

could you fit spacers on with it being that low?
What I was getting at is the BC Racing coilovers are not only adjustable in ride height and damping but also in setting the damper length
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      08-14-2012, 05:16 AM   #55
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How do you adjust Damper length and what will this allow? Sorry am totes noob with this so still learning. Once it’s raised tomorrow, I’m going to spend the following weekend (after Gaydon) fine tuning the setting to my liking as I want to learn this myself and shouldn’t really be rocket science. I’ve been reading many articles on how to lower / raise the coils but still a bit confusing as to which collar to loosen etc etc.

Lastly, do you guys know (and I’ll ask the guy who fitted these in to show me anyways) where / how exactly I can access the damping dial / knobs in the rear of car to adjust the rear coil settings?
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      08-14-2012, 06:42 AM   #56
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I still think it looks awesome!!
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      08-14-2012, 07:55 AM   #57
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LOL - It does look awesome but I need to soften the ride and just raise it a tad bit. If it looks crap after raising a little then hey, can always drop it ... HELLO Coilovers heheh.
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      08-14-2012, 09:30 AM   #58
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I had BC's a few years back and IIRC the damper/rebound setting are on the top of the struts and are 30 way adjustable and same at the rears but you need the little clicker dial that comes with them if not i think an allen key will work.

They really do need to be set up correctly even the relatively small setting difference of 5 clicks say 10 - 15 makes a noticable difference to the way the BC's ride. They can go from near stock comfort to literally rock hard.

Don't forget to get the alignment done, especially as they have camber adjustment!

Last edited by DarkAnt335i; 08-14-2012 at 09:38 AM.
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      08-14-2012, 09:55 AM   #59
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Cheers for that mate – atm it feels rock hard but not sure what the settings are dialled into – I’ll have to check tonight. I’m not sure how to access the the dials in the rear so I’ll have a play witht he ones at the front and yes the dials are there and visible at the front so I’ll adjust them accordingly. Stupid Q – maybe – but will anticlockwise make them softer and vice versa?

10-15 clicks is 1/3 to way so def not a relatively small setting but I know what you mean... atm it feels very firm and I can hear almost every ffff grain on the road LOL. Will soften this up tonight and hoping to notice some difference on the way home! As I’m unable to access the rear dials to adjust the damping settings due to a lack know-how, what should I / one expect from a drive / car with the fronts more softer and the rear – harder? Any negative points to watch out for ?
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      08-14-2012, 10:21 AM   #60
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Cheers for that mate – atm it feels rock hard but not sure what the settings are dialled into – I’ll have to check tonight. I’m not sure how to access the the dials in the rear so I’ll have a play witht he ones at the front and yes the dials are there and visible at the front so I’ll adjust them accordingly. Stupid Q – maybe – but will anticlockwise make them softer and vice versa?

10-15 clicks is 1/3 to way so def not a relatively small setting but I know what you mean... atm it feels very firm and I can hear almost every ffff grain on the road LOL. Will soften this up tonight and hoping to notice some difference on the way home! As I’m unable to access the rear dials to adjust the damping settings due to a lack know-how, what should I / one expect from a drive / car with the fronts more softer and the rear – harder? Any negative points to watch out for ?
2/6th - 3/6th or 4/12th to 6/12th is not that much of a difference IMO. Hope i got my maths correct there, probably not

Its a while back but i think its 1 softest 30 hardest... so yes twist left to soften them. Don't hold me to that though.

Mine where not fitted to my 335 so cant give advice on best settings, in fact they were on a FWD car so no help at all.

I have however fitted my current KW coilovers. So if the adjustment 'stalk' thingeys are still in the struts... to access them you will need to remove the boot lining to get to them. Its a fairly easy job to get off, you just need either a trim puller, flat head screw driver or the like. But a lot more difficult to get everything back perfectly.

This is all assuming that the set up for all BC BR's are the same.

Not sure of the effects, would probably feel pretty weird and reduce the understeer @ a guess? Could be fun.

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      08-14-2012, 10:31 AM   #61
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When i originally installed the BC, like a fool, i assumed that 20 clicks would be OK, it was horrific. Like you say it was like you could feel every single dimple in the road. I think i ended up settling on 11 front and 13/14 rear, which was still firm but bearable.
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      08-14-2012, 11:04 AM   #62
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Abit too low but does look a hell of alot better than when on normal springs. Change to non run flats the difference is so much better and go to a wider tyre as the traction will improve too.

look forward to the updates
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      08-14-2012, 11:14 AM   #63
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Abit too low but does look a hell of alot better than when on normal springs. Change to non run flats the difference is so much better and go to a wider tyre as the traction will improve too.

look forward to the updates
Cheers for this mate it is a bit too low can you recommend how much higher I should raise by for a more subtle look but still keeping to a minimal arch gap? Im really not looking to spend just yet (for the time being) as I need to save but will def get non RFTs once these are no good! If I want the car to sit just literally on top of the tyre with a VERY small hint of nose down (and not much!) what mm would u recommend all round?
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      08-14-2012, 02:22 PM   #64
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UPDATE: So I left work and thought the ride surely cannot be this hard-ridden and stiff so with just a bit of online reading, I thought to give it go! Rolled up my sleeves, opened the bonnet (hard work done lol!) and adjusted the damping settings. Little did I know that I've been driving on the HARDEST (full 30 clicks) setting known to man since picking up the car on Sunday..... I then turned the front dials to 20 clicks towards soft and all I can say is WOW!!! NOW I can finally say I am glad I bought these :-)

Wasn't able to adjust the rears as A) Not sure how to access them and B) Even if I knew I wasn't going to strip the boot at my work car park even though it's probably the most secluded place!

I'm really happy now that I don't have to worry about going over a small bump with my spine and teeth about to break lol. Infect set to 20 soft, it's SO comfortable and noticeable when comparing to OEM. Basically, for me, 20 clicks is around about on par to OEM... Anything more and it starts becoming airy and loopy lol. I've now set it 17 clicks from hard meaning slightly more softer... and rear is definitely more harder as I can feel the bumps more when the back enters a bump or so but this can be adjusted later down the line. As Long as the dashboard doesn't feel like its about to fall off AND my teeth, I'm happy with this for a little while.

Guess I won't be raising it after all ... Well, at least not until before Gaydon! Will bring it up from all 4 corners in a month or two's time ...

Question is, getting it aligned with the hunter machine tomorrow...... If i do decide to raise it after a few weeks / months, will I then need to get it aligned again? I mean to ask, will aligning just the once suffice irrespective of the changes made to the ride height? I'll only be changing the ride maybe 2-3 times a year at the most!! Winters approaching so will be aiming to raise in around Oct / Nov... Cheers all.
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      08-14-2012, 03:32 PM   #65
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Cheers for this mate it is a bit too low can you recommend how much higher I should raise by for a more subtle look but still keeping to a minimal arch gap? Im really not looking to spend just yet (for the time being) as I need to save but will def get non RFTs once these are no good! If I want the car to sit just literally on top of the tyre with a VERY small hint of nose down (and not much!) what mm would u recommend all round?

To be honest without seeing it in person i wouldnt be sure. Im not an expert on suspension as im yet to do my own lol. I would aim to have it sit a couple of mm above the tyre for the pure reason of ground clearance when goin over bumps as it would annoy me keep scraping, it should still sit nose down as the front will have a bigger drop than the front.
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      08-14-2012, 05:56 PM   #66
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UPDATE: So I left work and thought the ride surely cannot be this hard-ridden and stiff so with just a bit of online reading, I thought to give it go! Rolled up my sleeves, opened the bonnet (hard work done lol!) and adjusted the damping settings. Little did I know that I've been driving on the HARDEST (full 30 clicks) setting known to man since picking up the car on Sunday..... I then turned the front dials to 20 clicks towards soft and all I can say is WOW!!! NOW I can finally say I am glad I bought these :-)

Wasn't able to adjust the rears as A) Not sure how to access them and B) Even if I knew I wasn't going to strip the boot at my work car park even though it's probably the most secluded place!

I'm really happy now that I don't have to worry about going over a small bump with my spine and teeth about to break lol. Infect set to 20 soft, it's SO comfortable and noticeable when comparing to OEM. Basically, for me, 20 clicks is around about on par to OEM... Anything more and it starts becoming airy and loopy lol. I've now set it 17 clicks from hard meaning slightly more softer... and rear is definitely more harder as I can feel the bumps more when the back enters a bump or so but this can be adjusted later down the line. As Long as the dashboard doesn't feel like its about to fall off AND my teeth, I'm happy with this for a little while.

Guess I won't be raising it after all ... Well, at least not until before Gaydon! Will bring it up from all 4 corners in a month or two's time ...

Question is, getting it aligned with the hunter machine tomorrow...... If i do decide to raise it after a few weeks / months, will I then need to get it aligned again? I mean to ask, will aligning just the once suffice irrespective of the changes made to the ride height? I'll only be changing the ride maybe 2-3 times a year at the most!! Winters approaching so will be aiming to raise in around Oct / Nov... Cheers all.
nice work mate glad you finally sorted it good work
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