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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Got downpipe insall time down to 80 minutes.



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      07-10-2012, 01:45 PM   #1
MontegoChris
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Got downpipe insall time down to 80 minutes.

In the past few weeks I have taken my AFE's off 2 times, and decided to put them back on for good. so I decided to start timing it...Just over 80 minutes last night. From start to finish on removing stocks and putting the AFE's back on. If anyone in the bay needs downpipe install help Im here.
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      07-10-2012, 02:01 PM   #2
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Ok

Need some help! Can you come over
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      07-10-2012, 02:27 PM   #3
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It's not a bad job but sucks the first time you do it. A little 1/4 air wrench really helps.
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      07-10-2012, 02:29 PM   #4
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Wow that's pretty damn impressive, might need to hit you up if I'm back up north!
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      07-10-2012, 02:30 PM   #5
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When im gonna be up north might need your help haha :-P
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      07-10-2012, 05:04 PM   #6
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Come to ATL I'll supply pizza and beer. Hehe.
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      07-10-2012, 07:21 PM   #7
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FML, where were you a week ago lol damnit!
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      07-12-2012, 08:14 AM   #8
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I was expecting to hear the secrets of your install ?
Do you do anything special? Remove or loosen the motor mount for instance?
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      07-12-2012, 08:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniter View Post
I was expecting to hear the secrets of your install ?
Do you do anything special? Remove or loosen the motor mount for instance?
+1
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      07-12-2012, 09:11 AM   #10
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You do not need to loosen the motor mount. You need to move the steering rack for access and be patient with what you're doing. FWIW, after the steering rack is moved, I can also swap downpipes in under 60 minutes. More than half that is just prying off the midpipes from the stock DPs due to the studs. If you want to spend that time more wisely, remove the midpipes all together and have a stress free install
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      07-21-2012, 03:40 PM   #11
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are rhino ramps enough lift on the car to do the swap?
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      07-21-2012, 04:50 PM   #12
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      07-22-2012, 06:21 PM   #13
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My secret is just having done it a few times I figured out how to speed it up. When removing the two steering rack nuts, take the closed end of a 16mm wrench, and while turning your ratchet with a 16mm socket on the bolt, get the wrench to seat on the nut, then you can effortlessly remove them.
When re-installing the nut and bolt combo, my trick is to use both hands and get the nut up on top of the steering rack and looking through the bolt hole make sure it is perfectly lined up with the hole. Then try keeping a finger on the nut while sliding the bolt through, and then turn the bolt a time or two and it will begin threading the nut. Then you can do your wrench/ratchet trick.
Tzu may be right about the motor mount, because my AFE's cleared with me using a bit of wiggling and forceful pushing and pulling.
In term of lining the downpipes up to the midpipes I undo all the rear and middle bolts and nuts securing the exhaust, only leaving this one bracket attached to the car about 3/4 of the way back, that way you dont have to wrestle with raising your heavy ass exhaust off the ground. It is loose, but still hanging off the ground, giving you the ability to go forward/back, up/down to line up the holes.
If anyone in the bay ever needs a hand, im probably down.
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      07-22-2012, 09:48 PM   #14
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Also a decent set of 1/4 impact swivel socket for the turbo clamps or a 1/4 air ratchet make a hell of a difference. Either way the first time you do it and you've never had experience with how little wiggle room these clamps have it cam be frustrating especially hearing the stories of people not putting them on quite right and having them interfere with the waste gates.
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      07-24-2012, 05:21 AM   #15
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Brusk makes a good point, it is tight around the turbos. I used a 1/4" ratchet and 13mm short socket, and had no problem with removal and installation of the clamps. Do make sure you have them on correctly. They have the tendency to interfere with mating of the downpipe and turbo unless you spread them open wide enough, then mate dp and turbo, finally closing clamp and begin re-threading the bolt.
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      07-24-2012, 12:23 PM   #16
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I did mine yesterday, 2 hours with a break for water and i had to walk the dog. Normally I do it quicker, but I just had RB turbos put on and the damn bolts were tight as hell from where the dealer reattached them last week. I find it is much easier on jack stands and not ramps mainly because you can turn the wheel all the way to the driver side and that gives you a lot more movement with the rack to pivot.
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      07-24-2012, 12:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toms335i View Post
are rhino ramps enough lift on the car to do the swap?
Done mine plenty of times, also when moving the steering rack if you push on one side as far as it will go then barely more your steering wheel the rack will drop all the way down and allow a ton of working room.
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      07-24-2012, 12:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chefcg1 View Post
turn the wheel all the way to the driver side and that gives you a lot more movement with the rack to pivot.
totally true!
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      07-24-2012, 02:43 PM   #19
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yeah I got it done on the ramps although I honestly thought the most difficult part was taking off the heat shield, hard getting to the bottom two screws.

but I hear the turbos spooling up much louder now!

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Originally Posted by Rioter View Post
On my old 335i I used rhino ramps. Wasn't too difficult.
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      09-16-2012, 01:27 PM   #20
MontegoChris
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Just noticed I spelled install as insall in thread title, not cool. sorry.
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      09-16-2012, 02:04 PM   #21
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I remember wheningotnthem down to this time to, practice makes perfect
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      09-16-2012, 02:05 PM   #22
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I remember when I got them down to this time too, practice makes perfect
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