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      01-21-2015, 12:43 PM   #1
9352e90
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Blower motor question

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I replaced my battery Sunday night with a oem match to the original. Monday morning when I went to take my car out, the blower wouldn't turn on at all, checked the fuse and it's good. About 20 minutes later driving down the highway it suddenly turns on and works for the rest of the day. Today when I start the car, again, no blower. It was replaced once under warrenty in 2011. Any thoughts? Thx in advance.
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      01-21-2015, 12:45 PM   #2
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Your voltage could be low. The ECU turns off high draw items to preserve the battery. I'll check my Bentley tonight to see if the blower is one of those items and what priority to shut off it is. Did you "register" the new battery?
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      01-21-2015, 12:58 PM   #3
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No, it hasn't been registered.
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      01-21-2015, 02:11 PM   #4
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Verify all of your battery connections have been reconnected and you have no fuses blown.

Reference DIY:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...eplacement+E90
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      01-21-2015, 02:16 PM   #5
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My blower motor was having problems and bmw blamed it on a voltage issue caused by a loose battery cable. They fixed it under cpo warranty.
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      01-21-2015, 03:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9352e90 View Post
No, it hasn't been registered.
You need to do this ASAP. Don't argue.
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      01-21-2015, 03:54 PM   #7
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Stopped by my dealer, my service advisor said its likely related to battery not being registered, and as previously mentioned convenience features like the blower might be shut off by the computer as a result of voltage issues. I have an oil changes scheduled for a next week thursday, is that soon enough (they said they can take care of both while the car is in). So is there a consensus that the registration should solve this issue? My advise also said it could be the battery altogether and registering it won't solve it (its a new DieHard Gold that meets all the specs).
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      01-21-2015, 06:21 PM   #8
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Next week is fine. Is your OEM match same cold cranking amps (CCA), Reserve Capacity (RC) and Amp/Hour (AH)? AGM or Lead Acid? There are a lot of specs that need to specified to the ECU if there are any changes. Even if the battery is identical the ECU needs to be told it is "NEW" so that the alternator can adjust its charging profile. Did they give you a price? Expect to pay $100-125 for the 5 minute registration.
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      01-22-2015, 12:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9352e90 View Post
I replaced my battery Sunday night with a oem match to the original. Monday morning when I went to take my car out, the blower wouldn't turn on at all, checked the fuse and it's good. About 20 minutes later driving down the highway it suddenly turns on and works for the rest of the day. Today when I start the car, again, no blower. It was replaced once under warrenty in 2011. Any thoughts? Thx in advance.
Another possibility, it maybe low but good to check, is your blower is again getting rusty and binding sometimes.

Before I had replaced my blower motor, it sometimes was getting stuck, not turning and all of a sudden while driving was turning back on. What was happening at night or when I wasn't driving the car for a few days, the rust between the blower motor axle and bushing was developing enough to bind it. And while driving, some jolt from bumps was sometimes enough to get it free and start rotating again. When I had the blower out to check, which was not working at the moment again, a manually turn had made it started working again. I changed it after this.

But I also had some chirping coming from the blower motor due to the rust there for a while.
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      01-22-2015, 11:48 AM   #10
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Its a possibility, the fact that it started up while I was driving makes me think this is a possibility. I haven't experienced any chirping, but there is a ticking at certain fan speeds. The timing with the battery replacement makes me this its battery related. Im going to swap back in the old battery temporarily to see if the fan comes back on, if it doesn't, I'll pull the blower motor and inspect it.
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      01-22-2015, 05:14 PM   #11
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It's the battery. I had the exact same isue two weeks ago. On one of the coldest mornings of the year (-4 F) the heater blower wouldn't come on. Thankfully the defroster worked OK, so I drove to work with that going full blast the whole time. On my way hime from work the heater worked fine, so I figured the problem in the morning had been a fluke. Then the next day it repeated itself - no heat on the way in to work but pleanty of heat on the way home. So I made an appointment to have it looked into by the dealer. Turns out that if your battery is a bit discharged the electrical nannies start disabling the least essential systems so that the battery has a chance to recharge. For some strange reason heat is considered non-essential, yet other energy hogs such as my heated steering wheel and heated seats continued to work just fine. I ended up having the battery replaced under warranty (it's 2nd replacement battery in a year!), and so far at least no further issues.
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      01-22-2015, 05:53 PM   #12
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Has it rained recently up where you live? If so, I wouldn't rule out a part failure, specifically, the final stage unit that operates the blower motor.

Several months ago, my car showed similar symptoms, the fan didn't turn on initially, but randomly on the drive home it kicked back on.

Rain/Moisture kills the blower motors over time in these cars. Rain/Moisture will kill the final stage unit much faster.

An easy way to rule out the FSU is to pull the kick panel directly below the glove box and check the insulation/carpet on the inside of the panel. In my case, there was an obvious burn in the insulation caused by the FSU.

The entire design of the system is ridiculously flawed from start to finish.

1.) The cabin air filter is housed in a plastic box. The cover of that box is secured with METAL bolts screwed into PLASTIC threads. Overtightening the threads will strip them which means the box is no longer air/water tight.

2.) Consequently, water enters through the cabin filter housing and has a direct path to the blower motor, final stage unit, and wiring. As many have experienced, that leads to a part failure over time.

3.) After water reaches the blower motor/fsu, it collects inside the kickpanel insulation/carpet. The FSU and wiring literally rest on this wet insulation. The water creates a short which causes the wire shielding to melt over time. That eventually leads to two bare wires contacting each other which kills the FSU (and potentially other more expensive parts).

If any of you have ever looked under your kick panel, you probably understand what I'm talking about. I'm actually surprised BMW hasn't had a class-action lawsuit filed against them. It has the potential for the insulation to catch fire if the FSU doesn't burn up first.
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      01-22-2015, 09:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomHero View Post
Has it rained recently up where you live? If so, I wouldn't rule out a part failure, specifically, the final stage unit that operates the blower motor.

Several months ago, my car showed similar symptoms, the fan didn't turn on initially, but randomly on the drive home it kicked back on.

Rain/Moisture kills the blower motors over time in these cars. Rain/Moisture will kill the final stage unit much faster.

An easy way to rule out the FSU is to pull the kick panel directly below the glove box and check the insulation/carpet on the inside of the panel. In my case, there was an obvious burn in the insulation caused by the FSU.

The entire design of the system is ridiculously flawed from start to finish.

1.) The cabin air filter is housed in a plastic box. The cover of that box is secured with METAL bolts screwed into PLASTIC threads. Overtightening the threads will strip them which means the box is no longer air/water tight.

2.) Consequently, water enters through the cabin filter housing and has a direct path to the blower motor, final stage unit, and wiring. As many have experienced, that leads to a part failure over time.

3.) After water reaches the blower motor/fsu, it collects inside the kickpanel insulation/carpet. The FSU and wiring literally rest on this wet insulation. The water creates a short which causes the wire shielding to melt over time. That eventually leads to two bare wires contacting each other which kills the FSU (and potentially other more expensive parts).

If any of you have ever looked under your kick panel, you probably understand what I'm talking about. I'm actually surprised BMW hasn't had a class-action lawsuit filed against them. It has the potential for the insulation to catch fire if the FSU doesn't burn up first.
This is all 100% true. I have the burn marks to prove it too. And two very burned wires leading to the blower fan.
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      01-23-2015, 01:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike3000fl View Post
This is all 100% true. I have the burn marks to prove it too. And two very burned wires leading to the blower fan.
A few things I did that you may consider doing:

1.) Rip off the insulation stuck tot the back of the kick pael and replace it with a butyl based (rather than asphalt based) sound deadener like Dynomat, Raam Mat, etc. That will keep your wires from resting on top of water and will likely improve the level of sound deadening the factory insulation provides.

2.) Check your cabin air filter box. If the screw threads are stripped like mine (Thank you BMW of Austin), it's best to replace them. There are "How-To's" on this forum that invole drilling out the stripped thread hold and installing a metal thread insert in its place. That will provide a better-than-stock seal for the cabin airfilter box.

3a) If your wires are badly burnt/damaged, remove the damaged part and splice in new wires. Or, at the very least clean the existing wires with a wire brush to remove the corrosion.

3b) Mine looked so awful, I chose to replace them. I included a few pictures below. Each pin was crimped (a proper crimper is extremely important) to each wire. The connections were then soldered. I then used a small amount of liquid-based electrical tape/insulation (came in a jar from Home Depot) to coat each connection. I then wraped each individual connection with electrical tape and then wrapped all the wires together (to make it look pretty).

I realize all of that was probably overkill, but I didn't want this to happen again in fear of the damage being worse a second time.


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      01-26-2015, 03:53 PM   #15
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UPDATE: Switched back to the old battery to see if the fan would come on but it didn't, even after having the old battery in for a day. Switched the new battery back in, no fan. Dropper the panel under the glovebox and looked for signs of water leakage, but saw none. Pulled the fan, tested it, and it ran fine. Put it all back together and when I starred the car the fan came back on. It operates at all speed increments so I think I can rule out the resistor. I took a look at the cabin air filter housing (I replaced the filter myself last time) and none of the screws seemed to be striped, but I ay just go ahead and add the metal thread inserts to get a better seal. The fan still quietly ticks at all speeds as it did before. Still going to go ahead with the registration. I will probably end up replacing the blower motor anyway due to the ticking, and judging by how slow it is the come up to full speed I don't think it will last much longer anyway. It's a shame BMW had such a bug design flaw with this system. Thanks for the help.
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