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      08-17-2012, 12:00 AM   #1
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Resolved: Underboost code/PROcede. Help! More to it

I have been having issues with with my 07 335xi 6MT 75k miles. Just got the car about a month ago after working on my roommates for the last 2 years, did and intake cleaning and changed the plugs out. In went a PROcede 2.5SE and an Evolution Racewerks CP with SSQV4. When stock the car runs good and hard with no boost issues/codes. With the PROcede in the first time I had some strange boost issues running the 5-23 maps stage 1.

When the car is in map 1 the car boosts to about 7psi then holds for a second and the procede adds a whole bunch of WGDC correction which brings the boost to about 9psi and not the 14psi where the setpoint was. Put it in map 0 and the car hardly boosts at all and then throws the underboost code and goes into limp mode. Keep in mind stock it has no issues boosting. Sent the unit back to Vishnu and they said there was a issue with the harness so they fixed it and tested the box and sent it back.

Put it back in with the CP and some DCI's and i still have the same problem. Getting 26" of vac at the canisters and the wastegates close under vac and hold well but the boost control solenoids dont hold vac, they slowly bleed out. Ordered and installed new ones and replaced a bunch of vac line. The boost build up is more crisp in map 1 but it still goes to 7psi then about 9 after the compensation is added.

Here is where it gets strange, in map 0 when I go WOT the turbos start to spool up and then make this strange rapid high amplitude oscillating sound while the car falls flat on its face and then it gets to about 5000rpm and throws the code and goes limp. Map1 one this doesn't happen.... I've never heard a turbo car do this before. I'm trying to get a HQ microphone to take some sound clips its very strange...

The problem still stands that I never get my boost up where the setpoint is and the car runs great stock.... Any ideas?
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      08-17-2012, 12:17 AM   #2
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Sounds like something isn't hooked up right... are you getting bad power from the ecu box? I was getting SES and weird issues until i switched the power from one of the pins to the other... The fact you are seeing problems in bypass Map 0 makes me think power or harness problems.

Hope you get your issues worked out.
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      08-17-2012, 12:36 AM   #3
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If there are no issues with the car when procede is not installed. I would bet on the Power not being firmly connected. Had the same issue with a friends car. Had to hold each spade with a two small needle nose pliers and make sure the power connection was seated all the way. Other wise it's a harness issue. I would have guessed boost leak but your saying it's ok stock.
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      08-17-2012, 07:50 AM   #4
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Could the BOV be bad/miscalibrated (the SSQV is a BOV or a DV?)? No boost leak at stock levels, but can't hold the extra pressure? Can you pressure test the system post-turbo at 20psi? I had to make fittings/parts to do it for stock IC/turbo Y-pipe, but you can easily do the same from some of the DIYs here with parts from a hardware store. One of the DIYs tests the pre-turbo suction pipes (easiest method), but you cannot exceed 10psi and/or you get leaks at the turbo compressor inlet. Testing the system after the turbos is best for sniffing boost leaks.
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      08-17-2012, 08:32 AM   #5
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the ssqv is fine, the car acts the same completely stock plus procede.
I've considered the power supply to the procede, is there a good way of actually testing it? The thing that makes me think it's not the problem is that the spade is just as tight as on my car, and that one is fine..
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      08-17-2012, 08:46 AM   #6
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Michael from ETS and I had about the same issue. The vacuum lines get old and crack. I have 63k, not sure about Mike, but after replacing the vacuum lines I'm back to boosting 18 to 19 psi. It started out with a little boost drop and then I found I was only able to hit 8 psi and at wot it would drop to 4 psi. I took the Procede out and it felt as if the car was running fine stock. But after a week I lost all boost. Dealer did a smoke test and found the vacuum lines to the actuators had cracked causing the failure. High temps from the DPs will cause the vacuum lines to fail.
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      08-17-2012, 08:58 AM   #7
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Can you try putting the stock CP w/OEM diverter valves back in to confirm there isn't a boost leak with the ER CP/BOV? Since you've already replaced the Vacuum canister and lines, there shouldn't be an issue there.
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      08-17-2012, 09:09 AM   #8
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I got the same issue at the track yesterday, I know it's not from the Procede.

Im in the middle of my run, everything is fine in 1st and 2nd gear then in the middle of 3rd, the log shows me dropping boost from 16psi and holds only at 8psi till I let off.

First time my car has done that, I guess it's time to start checking all vac connections.
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      08-17-2012, 09:46 AM   #9
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Update: All the vac lines are good and i replaced anything that looked bad. As far as it being the charge pipe, we tried that the first time i had this issue and determined that it wasn't anything to do with the charge pipe or BOV as the exact same issue was there.
We just switch the power pin on the ecu box from 2 to 8 and what happened was very strange... my boost profile in map 1 which used to be go to 7psi then hesitate and go to 9psi when the compensation was added now goes from 3psi to about 5 psi after compensation.... switched it back to pin 2 and the boost went back to its 7->9 PSI routine... this SCREAMS electrical power issues... connectors are all good and together and i checked the power connector on the procede harness and the connection is soldered very well. it doesn't look like my ECU box is getting all the power it needs...
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      08-17-2012, 11:00 AM   #10
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You can wire a relay from the battery positive post just outside the E-Box to power the Procede. Have it trigger off pin 8 of the green power connector. There is a small kit from Vishnu that does this, it's included in the PWM meth kit but not typically needed otherwise.
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      08-17-2012, 03:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesM3M5 View Post
You can wire a relay from the battery positive post just outside the E-Box to power the Procede. Have it trigger off pin 8 of the green power connector. There is a small kit from Vishnu that does this, it's included in the PWM meth kit but not typically needed otherwise.
Good idea, I will try this tonight. Anyone have any idea how much power the PROcede draws? When I called and asked what fuse I should use they said a 30A would work. Does the PROcede really pull over 300W of power? I think that's very high. And if it is high a 30A fuse will provide no protection.
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      08-17-2012, 09:01 PM   #12
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No dice... its worse now actually... only boosts 5psi then to 7psi . PROcede is getting solid power from the 12v jumper post and my boost is still all sorts of messed up in MAP 0... Bad harness/PROcede? even though they sent it back tested and approved? Cars just seem to hate me haha
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      08-17-2012, 09:07 PM   #13
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Send it back again and have them give you a new unit. If the car is fine stock it's clearly the Procede unit
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      08-18-2012, 09:36 AM   #14
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I'll tell you again, I had the same issue and it was a cracked vacuum line. I would get 7psi and at WOT it would drop back to 4psi. Michael at ETS had the same issue. Trust me, it's not the Procede.
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      08-18-2012, 09:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebra99 View Post
Send it back again and have them give you a new unit. If the car is fine stock it's clearly the Procede unit
+1, Not the first time I've heard of piggybacks in general go bad.

Is the unit a rev 2.5 SE? If it doesn't VIN lock, maybe you guys can swap boxes to see if the box is really the issue?
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      08-18-2012, 12:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedge1967 View Post
I'll tell you again, I had the same issue and it was a cracked vacuum line. I would get 7psi and at WOT it would drop back to 4psi. Michael at ETS had the same issue. Trust me, it's not the Procede.
His does not drop as the rpms climb, It increases. It hits a plateau at ~7 and 1000 RPM later it climbs and plateaus at 9.
We also just found out the boost control set point on map 0 is 0 PSI.
Something is messed up with the procede. Gonna reflash the firmware and maps.

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Originally Posted by themyst View Post
+1, Not the first time I've heard of piggybacks in general go bad.

Is the unit a rev 2.5 SE? If it doesn't VIN lock, maybe you guys can swap boxes to see if the box is really the issue?
Mine is VIN locked
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      08-18-2012, 01:02 PM   #17
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Heck, here's another idea, go find a JB4 owner and see if they're willing to lend you their tune for testing purposes. Or even Cobb.
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      08-18-2012, 08:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedge1967 View Post
I'll tell you again, I had the same issue and it was a cracked vacuum line. I would get 7psi and at WOT it would drop back to 4psi. Michael at ETS had the same issue. Trust me, it's not the Procede.
My whole vacuum system checks out though... I get 26" at the canisters, two new boost control solenoids, new vac line and wastegates that close under vacuum and hold any given level of vacuum...


And MAP 0


Quote:
Originally Posted by themyst View Post
Heck, here's another idea, go find a JB4 owner and see if they're willing to lend you their tune for testing purposes. Or even Cobb.
I am, gonna try the COBB out... I've been a big fan out how the PROcede works for a long time, id hate to ditch it for a lesser product
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      08-19-2012, 12:15 AM   #19
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I would reset your adaptations, reset the Procede from Comms, then verify your Start Boost in % is 65. Try that and if it pulls better you know the start boost in % was too low. I actually run mine between 80 and 100%... Just depends on what I'm doing. Just keep tract of your AFR and OLF by logging to make sure you keep your car happy.
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      09-01-2012, 01:37 PM   #20
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Resolved some of the issues

A few things to mention for anyone with similar issues after updating firmware and maps.

1. Make sure you have a solid vacuum system FIRST.
a.) Ensure 26" hg vacuum at the canisters, If not look for vac leaks along the two lines that run from the vac pump on the drivers side under the engine cover to the bottom of the canisters, also check the nipples they can break easy
b.)Boost solenoids hold vacuum from canister side lines (this must be tested with the ignition on and the engine not running) If they do not hold vacuum then they are most likely bad.
c.) Wastegate operation is free and not sticky, check this by hand. The front one is hard to get to, I had to pull the pan and snake my fingers through to make sure the gate moves.
d.) Check that the wastegate actuators hold vacuum without bleeding down. Make sure the actuator arm stops moving (closes) between 6-7" hg vac, if it is higher they arms need to be adjusted, if it is lower the gate is stuck or needs adjustment.
e.) Ensure that all the tubing is in good working order

This can all be done with http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac...ump-39522.html

2.) Pressure test the charge system and make sure there are no leaks here http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

Only after this checks out should you move on to 3. You don't want to overwork the turbos for nothing.

3.) Look at your WG compensation, if it is pinned at +5% start incrementing the Boost Control Gain by +5-10% in the user adjustable parameters of the PROcede tuning software (currently I have to run mine at 80% to hit and stay on boost target default is 45%) This will add a multiplication factor to the WGDC table, anything over 50% will add more WGDC helping to hold the gate shut by giving more vacuum to the actuators. From what I understand with the higher mileage wastegates (my car has 76k on them) the sealing surface is no longer perfect and it takes more effort to hold the gate shut. Once on target if your spool up is still slow you can adjust the Start Boost % setting up a bit to compensate. However at this point there is a good chance your wastegates are on the way out.

I could be wrong as well, If any of this isn't correct please let me know.

Unfortunately my Map 0 boost setpoint is still 0??? And the car doesn't run well in MAP 0 but fine stock... Oh well

Thanks again for everyone's help on this.
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      09-08-2012, 07:08 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TenshiWingusu View Post
Resolved some of the issues

A few things to mention for anyone with similar issues after updating firmware and maps.

1. Make sure you have a solid vacuum system FIRST.
a.) Ensure 26" hg vacuum at the canisters, If not look for vac leaks along the two lines that run from the vac pump on the drivers side under the engine cover to the bottom of the canisters, also check the nipples they can break easy
b.)Boost solenoids hold vacuum from canister side lines (this must be tested with the ignition on and the engine not running) If they do not hold vacuum then they are most likely bad.
c.) Wastegate operation is free and not sticky, check this by hand. The front one is hard to get to, I had to pull the pan and snake my fingers through to make sure the gate moves.
d.) Check that the wastegate actuators hold vacuum without bleeding down. Make sure the actuator arm stops moving (closes) between 6-7" hg vac, if it is higher they arms need to be adjusted, if it is lower the gate is stuck or needs adjustment.
e.) Ensure that all the tubing is in good working order

This can all be done with http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac...ump-39522.html

2.) Pressure test the charge system and make sure there are no leaks here http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

Only after this checks out should you move on to 3. You don't want to overwork the turbos for nothing.

3.) Look at your WG compensation, if it is pinned at +5% start incrementing the Boost Control Gain by +5-10% in the user adjustable parameters of the PROcede tuning software (currently I have to run mine at 80% to hit and stay on boost target default is 45%) This will add a multiplication factor to the WGDC table, anything over 50% will add more WGDC helping to hold the gate shut by giving more vacuum to the actuators. From what I understand with the higher mileage wastegates (my car has 76k on them) the sealing surface is no longer perfect and it takes more effort to hold the gate shut. Once on target if your spool up is still slow you can adjust the Start Boost % setting up a bit to compensate. However at this point there is a good chance your wastegates are on the way out.

I could be wrong as well, If any of this isn't correct please let me know.

Unfortunately my Map 0 boost setpoint is still 0??? And the car doesn't run well in MAP 0 but fine stock... Oh well

Thanks again for everyone's help on this.

So were you. Able to find out what. The issue was or was it a boost leak issue (vacuum)? That made you stock boost? Having the same issue. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ocede+guru%27s
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      09-08-2012, 02:22 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlantedEyeXI View Post
So were you. Able to find out what. The issue was or was it a boost leak issue (vacuum)? That made you stock boost? Having the same issue. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ocede+guru%27s
My issue didn't have anything to do with my vac/boost system, the main issue seemed to be that since my wastegates are getting old and worn out, I needed to set my Boost Control Gain to 80%. This gave the WGA more vacuum to hold the gate shut. How many miles do you have on your wastegates? Try running the 111 firmware with the 5-23 stage 1 maps, leave it all default and make sure you are plugged in to AC power when you update firmware and maps. Start incrementing the BCG up and see if it helps
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