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      08-20-2012, 02:21 PM   #1
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Wastegate actuator rod adjustment 335i

Anyone in the UK done this:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176269
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Last edited by phil200tdi; 08-20-2012 at 03:20 PM.
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      08-20-2012, 03:39 PM   #2
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Make sure if you do that to get a boost gauge connected.

That is how to increase boost pressure too.

The wastegate is just forced to stay closed longer.

Last edited by Kerr; 08-20-2012 at 04:02 PM.
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      08-21-2012, 01:48 AM   #3
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My wastegate has too much slop in the arm and I'm getting limp modes!!

Hopefully this will take up some of the play. May shove a washer in there too and grease it all up.

I really don't fancy replacing the turbos!
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      08-22-2012, 06:43 AM   #4
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Having trouble with my wastegateS too... Had the rear wastegate tightened recently which got rid of the rattle but now the wastegates aren't closing properly under load.

Car is laggy, exhaust is boomy and generally feels like a dog. Going back in to Woods next week to take the dp's off and try to properly adjust the front & rear turbo and check vacuum pressures are as they should be.

Either looking at a lazy actuator that isn't closing properly, an ill adjustment of the actuator rod or possible faulty vacuum pump not providing enough vacuum to close wastegates.

I suspect its a mechanical fault with the actuator rod (too much play causing the wastegates not to seat properly) in which case if the adjustment doesn't work its new turbos.

Well out of warranty = Not appy!!
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      08-22-2012, 08:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335i E92
Having trouble with my wastegateS too... Had the rear wastegate tightened recently which got rid of the rattle but now the wastegates aren't closing properly under load.

Car is laggy, exhaust is boomy and generally feels like a dog. Going back in to Woods next week to take the dp's off and try to properly adjust the front & rear turbo and check vacuum pressures are as they should be.

Either looking at a lazy actuator that isn't closing properly, an ill adjustment of the actuator rod or possible faulty vacuum pump not providing enough vacuum to close wastegates.

I suspect its a mechanical fault with the actuator rod (too much play causing the wastegates not to seat properly) in which case if the adjustment doesn't work its new turbos.

Well out of warranty = Not appy!!
I think we have exactly the same problem.

I'm about to do the brakes too and feel the clutch doesn't have long to live.. I'm pretty fed up and very close to just part exchanging the car tbh.
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      08-22-2012, 08:47 AM   #6
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I've invested so much into getting this car right that I almost feel if I ditch it then I've lost a shit load of ££ that I won't get back.

Even if I have to put new turbo's on its £1500 and the car should hopefully then be strong for a good few years. If I px'd it I'd loose a shit load and in all stand to loose alot more than the £1500 turbo outlay.

At 80k miles (which I think yours has also done) having 1/2 of that tuned its kinda expected that the turbo's are on their way out.

Anyway hoping the manual adjustment does the trick next week as tbh I havnt got £1500 to throw at the car right now.
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      08-22-2012, 09:14 AM   #7
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Im at 88k and had been considering a change next year.

Threw £1k at valve cleaning and service recently.

Have brakes to fit, clutch slightly whirring. Rear tyres are getting low. Potential for new turbos means that I could get a crap trade in value and Be better off than fixing and selling privately later..
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      08-22-2012, 10:38 AM   #8
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The problem is the linkage wears where the rod locates. So you have a cock in a sock arragement. You can take up the slack so the linkage gets full travel, but you still have slack.


Last edited by creepy coupe; 08-22-2012 at 10:43 AM.
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      08-22-2012, 02:10 PM   #9
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^ Yep

Hence I mentionned putting a washer/clip in which will take up the slack. Like this:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAkkIEMm3UQ
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      08-22-2012, 02:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil200tdi
^ Yep

Hence I mentionned putting a washer/clip in which will take up the slack. Like this:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAkkIEMm3UQ
Any idea where to purchase anything like this that will work on our turbos?
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      08-23-2012, 02:13 AM   #11
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Wonder what that clip does to the action of the rod? Given it's only vacuum operated.
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      08-23-2012, 06:31 AM   #12
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Seems to just take up the slack of the rod moving on the pin. I wouldn't expect it to impede the rotation of the Wastegate arm.

These clips are an official Audi fix under TIS. Yet to find anything similar from BMW though...
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      08-24-2012, 12:06 PM   #13
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I'm feeling your pain buddy. Just back from offshore and the car is telling me that a service is overdue so think my warranty could be buggered.

Have taken my missus and I up to Inverness for a weekend and on the way I threw a limp mode when pressing on through the twisties which I reset then when I arrived at the carpark there was a very pronounced rattle which I believe is the dreaded waste gate rattle. Gutted .

Will be monitoring this thread to see how you get on with the adjustment fix as I can't be bothered replacing the turbos unless I upgrade to RB's.
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      08-25-2012, 04:38 AM   #14
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If either of you are jb4 users, try reducing the lag fix. Seems to have eased the over boost symptoms.

I dont get a rattle but can feel the slop in the arm which is concerning me!
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      08-25-2012, 08:39 AM   #15
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Phil,

Sorry to waffle, but i've spent time (and money) on this...

Mine has always suffered from a recurring ticking rattle on warm starts which goes in about a minute.

I've had it adjusted twice properly with a hand vaccum pump (2nd time just this week) with DPs off.

The Mr5 methods is flawed IMO in that he assumes the ECU can control each wastegate separately, this is not the case, there are 2 solenoids, but the output vaccum lines are paralleled up, so there is only 1 vaccuum for both turbos. It is thus very important that both wastegates close exactly the same amount for any given vacuum.

If you over-adjust one actuator only, then that turbo will produce more boost than the other for a given vacuum level. This extra boost will heat up that turbo more and will actually fight against the other turbo's output.

BUT - in practice it seems that the rear turbo linkage wears more (hotter maybe?), in both cases on my car an extra 1/2 turn on the shaft was required on the rear turbo only to get full closure at the specified 200mbar vacuum. The front one was fine. So as long as you are just winding out slack to get back to the correct operation you are ok.

This tightening also fixes the rattle for me, until it wears again. The wear on mine (and all probably) is the wastegate pivot in the turbine housing NOT the actuator arm end pivot. This is as confirmed by Turbo Dynamics who I had a chat with. So ultimately, the shaft will be so loose in the housing it will bind / jam causing under/over boost codes.

Also of concern is the method of adjustment in Mr5s post, the actuator rod is FIXED to the vaccum diaphragm, it does not rotate, so turning it will presumably break / loosen something? We tried to turn mine and they wouldn't budge easily.

The correct way to adjust it is to loosen the lock nut at the pivot end, take the shaft eye off the wastgate arm pin, turn the eye half a turn and put it back on the wastegate arm, then tighten it up.

BTW you can't put any grease anywhere as the temps are so high it will just burn off, the wastegates and linkages have to run completely dry. The turbine housing runs at about 1000degC, so watch anything else too. The suggested copper washers would melt at 905degC!
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      08-25-2012, 04:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doughboy
Phil,

Sorry to waffle, but i've spent time (and money) on this...

Mine has always suffered from a recurring ticking rattle on warm starts which goes in about a minute.

I've had it adjusted twice properly with a hand vaccum pump (2nd time just this week) with DPs off.

The Mr5 methods is flawed IMO in that he assumes the ECU can control each wastegate separately, this is not the case, there are 2 solenoids, but the output vaccum lines are paralleled up, so there is only 1 vaccuum for both turbos. It is thus very important that both wastegates close exactly the same amount for any given vacuum.

If you over-adjust one actuator only, then that turbo will produce more boost than the other for a given vacuum level. This extra boost will heat up that turbo more and will actually fight against the other turbo's output.

BUT - in practice it seems that the rear turbo linkage wears more (hotter maybe?), in both cases on my car an extra 1/2 turn on the shaft was required on the rear turbo only to get full closure at the specified 200mbar vacuum. The front one was fine. So as long as you are just winding out slack to get back to the correct operation you are ok.

This tightening also fixes the rattle for me, until it wears again. The wear on mine (and all probably) is the wastegate pivot in the turbine housing NOT the actuator arm end pivot. This is as confirmed by Turbo Dynamics who I had a chat with. So ultimately, the shaft will be so loose in the housing it will bind / jam causing under/over boost codes.

Also of concern is the method of adjustment in Mr5s post, the actuator rod is FIXED to the vaccum diaphragm, it does not rotate, so turning it will presumably break / loosen something? We tried to turn mine and they wouldn't budge easily.

The correct way to adjust it is to loosen the lock nut at the pivot end, take the shaft eye off the wastgate arm pin, turn the eye half a turn and put it back on the wastegate arm, then tighten it up.

BTW you can't put any grease anywhere as the temps are so high it will just burn off, the wastegates and linkages have to run completely dry. The turbine housing runs at about 1000degC, so watch anything else too. The suggested copper washers would melt at 905degC!
Mike, where did you get the wastegates adjusted?
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      08-25-2012, 04:48 PM   #17
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Also, did you adjust both or just the rear?
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      08-26-2012, 03:11 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335i E92 View Post
Mike, where did you get the wastegates adjusted?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335i E92 View Post
Also, did you adjust both or just the rear?
Mike at Darren wood did them, you need dps off to do it properly.

On both times, we checked both turbos, and on both occasions only the rear was wearing and needed adjusting.

Half a turn each time, which is the minimum adjustment.
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      08-26-2012, 06:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doughboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335i E92 View Post
Mike, where did you get the wastegates adjusted?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 335i E92 View Post
Also, did you adjust both or just the rear?
Mike at Darren wood did them, you need dps off to do it properly.

On both times, we checked both turbos, and on both occasions only the rear was wearing and needed adjusting.

Half a turn each time, which is the minimum adjustment.
Mines booked in for the same with Mike on Thursday, although mine aren't noisy there just not closing properly so on boost!!
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      08-26-2012, 08:24 AM   #20
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I wish they weren't 3 hours drive away!!!!
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      08-26-2012, 11:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil200tdi
I wish they weren't 3 hours drive away!!!!
Worth a drive Phil, I'll let you know the outcome on Thurs.
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      08-26-2012, 02:02 PM   #22
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Good luck on thursday H.

I think you phoned Woods on Tuesday when I was there?

Next time my rattle comes back, we'll just tighten the rear actuator 1/2 a turn without faffing around.

The rear actuator arm is easy to reach, a 10 minute job with some long nose pliers, but the front one is a whole different game....
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