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      08-27-2012, 05:27 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335i E92 View Post
Having trouble with my wastegateS too... Had the rear wastegate tightened recently which got rid of the rattle but now the wastegates aren't closing properly under load.

Car is laggy, exhaust is boomy and generally feels like a dog. Going back in to Woods next week to take the dp's off and try to properly adjust the front & rear turbo and check vacuum pressures are as they should be.

Either looking at a lazy actuator that isn't closing properly, an ill adjustment of the actuator rod or possible faulty vacuum pump not providing enough vacuum to close wastegates.

I suspect its a mechanical fault with the actuator rod (too much play causing the wastegates not to seat properly) in which case if the adjustment doesn't work its new turbos.

Well out of warranty = Not appy!!
More likely a split hose - common and simple to fix?

The BMW is opposite to many Japs, the wastegate 'fails safe' to open.
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      08-27-2012, 05:30 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil200tdi View Post
Im at 88k and had been considering a change next year.

Threw £1k at valve cleaning and service recently.

Have brakes to fit, clutch slightly whirring. Rear tyres are getting low. Potential for new turbos means that I could get a crap trade in value and Be better off than fixing and selling privately later..
Exactly where I got to when I gave up with it.

Got a good price from an ignorant dealer a long way from home.

Caveat emptor
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      08-28-2012, 02:29 AM   #25
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H, sounds like a vac leak.

At the weekend I left the main rigid vacuum line unplugged by accident after taking the air filters off, engine boomed like hell when started due to open wastegates.

Didn't get far though, its the same vacuum for turbo actuators and brake servo so the brake pedal would barely move!
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      08-28-2012, 06:24 AM   #26
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I have a bit of wastegate rattle and am now a bit worried that I need to do something like this. At least it would be a good excuse to get catless dp's fitted. I have done 50k miles with 10 tuned.

How do I know if my wastegates are not closing properly or acting up as the car feels ok, unless I have got used to it.
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      08-28-2012, 09:10 AM   #27
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The rattle is not usually a performance issue, its just annoying.

As long as the car can get the boost it requests, then all will be fine.

If they wear so much that they don't close properly then you'll get fault codes for under boost.

But having DPs fitted is the best time to get them adjusted
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      08-28-2012, 09:30 AM   #28
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Thanks for the reassurance Doughboy. Would the fault codes cause a warning on the dash or would I have to have to put a code reader on?
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      08-28-2012, 11:05 AM   #29
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I think underboost gives a limp mode, so you'll know about it, but really to be 100% you need a code reader like a JB4 or BT cable.
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      08-28-2012, 12:02 PM   #30
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I have the evolve cable and code reader so I'll have a check. This is good to know though, that there is an possible option to try before having to replace the turbos.
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      08-28-2012, 12:06 PM   #31
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JB4 has a feature to reduce the wastegate rattle.

Mine isnt rattling but I'm getting low/high boost faults..
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      08-28-2012, 05:43 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doughboy
H, sounds like a vac leak.

At the weekend I left the main rigid vacuum line unplugged by accident after taking the air filters off, engine boomed like hell when started due to open wastegates.

Didn't get far though, its the same vacuum for turbo actuators and brake servo so the brake pedal would barely move!
Mike

Pretty sure it isn't a vac leak as I had all my vac lines replaced a few months back, also if I unplug the main vac connector at the front of the intake box I get a whoosh of air as it decompresses even a good few hours after the engine has been switched off.

When it goes in on Thursday Mike's gonna check vacuum pressure as well as readjust the wastegates.

The brakes are strong and the exhaust flap in the back box is working fine, I'm convinced it's either a dying actuator or the actuator rod / wastegate linkage has too much play and isn't closing the wastegate properly.

The car is pretty crappy do drive, unresponsive / boomy & I've noticed it's running hotter than it used to, probably because of raised air intake temps from the wastegates not closing properly.

Funny thing is its never once thrown an underboost code, I've given it wot on a few occasions but not done any prolonged spirited driving since I've had the issue as I've not wanted to cook the turbo's.

Do you agree that the slightly higher running temps could be related to the wastegate issue?

Hopefully I'll get it sorted on Thursday, praying the fix won't be in the form of brand new turbos.
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      08-29-2012, 02:14 AM   #33
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Are Woods open on a Saturday?
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      08-29-2012, 02:34 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicktyler View Post
I have the evolve cable and code reader so I'll have a check. This is good to know though, that there is an possible option to try before having to replace the turbos.
Even if they're completely knackered, I wouldn't buy new ones, they'll the same bad design!

Once they're off, get them overnight couriered down to Turbo Dynamics and they do a better-than-new-repair in same day turn around.

They remove the wastegate arm and fit a glass hard metal bearing sleeve in the turbine housing and put it all back together, so it will never wear again. About 200 per turbo I think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by phil200tdi View Post
Are Woods open on a Saturday?
Yes, you'll need to book a few weeks out, but give them a call. Mike is the N54 expert, so ask to speak to him and have a chat about your issues.

It you tell them H (335i E92) off the forum sent you, he's their best customer

If you do go, just don't expect anything too Glamorous!
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      08-29-2012, 03:32 AM   #35
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Sending them to TD sounds like a good option. If I was to send mine though I wouldn't just want the wastegate operation upgraded I'd want a general overhaul as they've done 80k and I know they have a little play in the shafts.

Need to speak to TD directly but I think a general overhaul & wastegate fix would be more than new turbos. In the below link they talk about replacing turbine wheels with larger diameters for improved performance, will that still work ok with my Evolve map?

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/services/turbo-repairs/

I'm sure a read one of Tonys post from ages ago n he had strange boost problems with his upgraded turbos from TD. Not sure if he resolved it?
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      08-29-2012, 05:04 AM   #36
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The TD pukka hand built upgraded turbos are about 2 grand each!

I think that's why Idnan got the RB units instead.

TD will do a 'standard' overhauled exchange unit with the wastegate fix though, best call them for a price.

Ideally you'd want them to ship refurbed units first, as your engine will be out, then get a deposit back when you send your old ones.
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      08-29-2012, 05:16 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doughboy
The TD pukka hand built upgraded turbos are about 2 grand each!

I think that's why Idnan got the RB units instead.

TD will do a 'standard' overhauled exchange unit with the wastegate fix though, best call them for a price.

Ideally you'd want them to ship refurbed units first, as your engine will be out, then get a deposit back when you send your old ones.
Ahh, 2k a turbo... Never gonna happen!!

I'll speak to TD n get a price for recon turbos with wastegate upgrade. Will also request they send a set up and I'll ship my old ones back down as cant be without the car for too long. Will report back with prices.

Mike, going back to my previous point, do you agree that my increased engine temp is probsbly down to the wastegate not closing on boost?
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      08-29-2012, 05:36 AM   #38
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Can't think why temps would go up with low boost? The engine would logically run cooler with less boost, but the thermostat should keep it constant anyway for similar drivning in similar weather.

If a wastegate is not shutting, the ECU will be aware that it is not getting the expected boost for its usual amount of PWM (vacuum solenoid activation / duty cycle). The ECU will adapt and give more duty cycle to get the boost it wants within limits.

So, if it is bad enough you should get an 'under boost' code. The ECU won't know why, it could be a leak for all it knows, it just knows the boost isn't what it should be.

Remember on WOT runs the wastegates won;t be fully shut anyway as they will be part open to control the boost, if they were shut at WOT high revs the car would overboost massively!

They'll generally only be shut at idle and for low revs pickup to build boost quickly, and will start to open as things get going, so it could cause lag, but shouldn't effect WOT really.
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      08-29-2012, 06:52 AM   #39
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As Mike mentioned, the TDs were really expensive and needed custom oil lines so I went for RBs. Unfortunately I've still got small puffs of blue smoke on deceleration from time to time.

I'm not 100% happy with my car neither, I've removed the meth and it feels sluggish and I did have a weird limp mode under full boost in 4th. Car made a loud pop, got the reduced power message and 10 seconds later everything was back to normal. Haven't had anything similar since. The JB4 G5 has made a difference to performance though and it has felt better since.
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      08-29-2012, 07:09 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idnan View Post
As Mike mentioned, the TDs were really expensive and needed custom oil lines so I went for RBs. Unfortunately I've still got small puffs of blue smoke on deceleration from time to time.

I'm not 100% happy with my car neither, I've removed the meth and it feels sluggish and I did have a weird limp mode under full boost in 4th. Car made a loud pop, got the reduced power message and 10 seconds later everything was back to normal. Haven't had anything similar since. The JB4 G5 has made a difference to performance though and it has felt better since.
Darren wood compared your car to his friend's ferrari and he said on a straight it feels very similar...

Not too happy with my car either as I can only run the Drive map from Cobb...Sports or Aggressive maps, I get error codes and misfiring, and engine sounds weird...like air escaping through the engine bay!!!...
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      08-29-2012, 07:51 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zltm089;125****4
Darren wood compared your car to his friend's ferrari and he said on a straight it feels very similar...

Not too happy with my car either as I can only run the Drive map from Cobb...Sports or Aggressive maps, I get error codes and misfiring, and engine sounds weird...like air escaping through the engine bay!!!...
Making me blush

That was with an open diff and no meth. With the LSD, meth and the car running properly it is genuinely scarily fast. My car ran at its best when I was running meth but I removed the system and a month later I had a big washer fluid leak. Call it luck maybe but I could've lost my pride and joy if I hadn't made the decision. Once my HPF stage 2 clutch is in, the engine niggles are sorted and meth fitted I will be a very happy bunny.

I also get that air escaping sound from under the bonnet from time to time and I also get some overboosting issues at times
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      08-29-2012, 07:57 AM   #42
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Idnan,

OT - Just got my ER charge pipe BTW, very shiny... http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737725

Meth leaks are what worries me a bit, where did your washer system leak?

If you stick to the 50/50 weight mix (60m/40w by volume, is that right?) is it still flammable, or more flammable than winter washer fluid anywy?
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      08-29-2012, 08:06 AM   #43
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The ER CP is really good quality and good to see you got the later type which gets rid of the crappy rubber accordion on pre 2009 cars.

My WW bottle was leaking from the seal on the lower of the two pumps. That sort of leak isn't too bad, a leak in the filler piping is much more dangerous as it passes over the front turbo. I was using a higher meth conc as I was pushing the RBs quite hard. I think It was 75:25 volume mixture and will continue to do so when I finish my boot mounted setup. I'm not too sure about the comparison with winter washer fluid but as long as you're careful and check for leaks every few weeks then you shouldn't have any issues.
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      08-29-2012, 08:24 AM   #44
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I'll stick to 50/50 meth I think!

Re the ER pipe, it is a very fine piece of fabrication indeed.

Instructions seem very clear too and all the bits / hoses / clamps are good quality.
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