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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Doing some maintenance -walnut blast and oil pan gasket pics



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      01-29-2016, 08:44 PM   #1
mankytron
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Doing some maintenance -walnut blast and oil pan gasket pics

Now that winter is here I have some time to work on my car. It started with intake valve cleaning but I have since noticed other issues. The oil pan was leaking a lot, which is likely were my oil usage is from, and my right front strut is leaking (I am guessing it is bent due to a blow with a pothole last year. That would explain camber issues on that front wheel.

Just snapped a few pics of the oil pan job as it seems less common to see on here. I was very happy to see no sludge in the pan, that car has 193k or 120k miles. Will adjust both wastgates while I am at it, cause the rattle is starting to drive me crazy. Also doing the oil filter/cooler housing gaskets.

I did not take any pics of my gunked up valves but they are like many pics I have seen. I used brake cleaner, dental pics, and a small hand held blaster. The combination of three worked well.

P.S. The specs of dirt in the pan are just some walnut shell that fell in as I broke the pan free.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...921/e39gI8.jpg

Last edited by mankytron; 01-29-2016 at 09:40 PM.
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      01-29-2016, 09:17 PM   #2
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cool. i plan on doing my oil pan soon. any tips or tricks? lol
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      01-29-2016, 09:38 PM   #3
mankytron
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Hoist helps lol. I left the suspension bolted up to hold the sub frame. Unbolt steering rack and front coolant line from sub frame Oil pan has three bolts horizontal from bell housing.
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      01-30-2016, 10:20 AM   #4
muncie21
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How far did the subframe have to drop? I'm considering doing this, but I have a 4-post drive on lift. So I would be unbolting the subframe and then jacking up the frame, to lower the subframe.
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      01-30-2016, 08:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muncie21 View Post
How far did the subframe have to drop? I'm considering doing this, but I have a 4-post drive on lift. So I would be unbolting the subframe and then jacking up the frame, to lower the subframe.
I think you will be ok working with the four post hoist. The subframe drops 4-6 inches hanging from suspension.
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      02-01-2016, 01:46 PM   #6
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ive read as long as you can drop the subframe low enough you don't need to remove it from the hubs.
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      02-01-2016, 08:17 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by MadeInPhilly View Post
ive read as long as you can drop the subframe low enough you don't need to remove it from the hubs.
Not sure what you mean by "hubs"?....
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      02-02-2016, 10:59 AM   #8
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I just got an oil change and they said my oil pan is leaking. Cost of repair is $1600.
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      02-02-2016, 10:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLIEN View Post
I just got an oil change and they said my oil pan is leaking. Cost of repair is $1600.
That's a crazy price, is that from bmw stealer? It is a pile of labour though.
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      02-03-2016, 12:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mankytron
Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLIEN View Post
I just got an oil change and they said my oil pan is leaking. Cost of repair is $1600.
That's a crazy price, is that from bmw stealer? It is a pile of labour though.
Shouldn't be more than $500 at your local Indy. Get new motor mounts while your at it, and new water pump and tstat if your over 60k in miles and it hasn't blown up yet.
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      02-03-2016, 11:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mankytron View Post
That's a crazy price, is that from bmw stealer? It is a pile of labour though.
Yea, dealer price. Also wanted $600 for rear brake rotors and pads which are coming up and $560 for a thermostat.
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      02-03-2016, 11:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
Shouldn't be more than $500 at your local Indy. Get new motor mounts while your at it, and new water pump and tstat if your over 60k in miles and it hasn't blown up yet.
Cool. What's the deal with motor mounts? Are there specific symptoms or just do it while stuff is disassembled.
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      02-03-2016, 12:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLIEN View Post
I just got an oil change and they said my oil pan is leaking. Cost of repair is $1600.
Thats at least twice what it should be..

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      02-03-2016, 01:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com View Post
Thats at least twice what it should be..

Mike
Cool. I knew it sounded a bit rich.
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      02-03-2016, 10:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLIEN
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
Shouldn't be more than $500 at your local Indy. Get new motor mounts while your at it, and new water pump and tstat if your over 60k in miles and it hasn't blown up yet.
Cool. What's the deal with motor mounts? Are there specific symptoms or just do it while stuff is disassembled.
If your up there in miles, you should replace one side mount with the 335is mount and their other replace with a new mount. One side was redesigned because the original mounts can fail and cause the ps pulley to hit the subframe which shreds your belt and then gets sucked into the front of the engine blowing it up. Bmw engineering at its finest lol.
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      02-04-2016, 12:23 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
If your up there in miles, you should replace one side mount with the 335is mount and their other replace with a new mount. One side was redesigned because the original mounts can fail and cause the ps pulley to hit the subframe which shreds your belt and then gets sucked into the front of the engine blowing it up. Bmw engineering at its finest lol.
Ok. I got a quote for $2300 from a reputable indie for the oil pan gasket, thermostat install, walnut blast and rear brake pads and rotors. I will kick around the motor mounts too.
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      02-04-2016, 06:33 PM   #17
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Make sure tstat includes the water pump - gotta do both or you'll regret it!!

Mounts I think are around $80 each and they should not add any labor due to overlap.
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      02-05-2016, 01:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
Make sure tstat includes the water pump - gotta do both or you'll regret it!!

Mounts I think are around $80 each and they should not add any labor due to overlap.
My waterpump failed the same day I bought the car. It was CPO and they replaced it under the warranty but guess what? They did not use a new thermostat. This was about 23,000 miles ago so I would hope to be good with the current waterpump.
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      02-05-2016, 01:27 PM   #19
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You don't need to replace the thermostat with the waterpump. It's just recommended since it isn't that much additional work to do both at the same time. If you didn't replace the t-stat don't sweat over it.
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      02-05-2016, 03:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02 View Post
You don't need to replace the thermostat with the waterpump. It's just recommended since it isn't that much additional work to do both at the same time. If you didn't replace the t-stat don't sweat over it.
Agreed. That's why I am furious that when they replaced the waterpump under warranty that they did not throw in a new thermostat. I have the service engine soon light on with the code for the thermostat which is the reason why I am getting it done. I am tempted to try it myself but for the $356 that the indy is charging I will let them handle it.
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