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      07-06-2016, 04:27 PM   #1
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Looking for Silicone Inlets Installation DIY

I've been searching this forum and google for a while and not having much luck. Is there a step-by-step instruction anywhere for installing Silicone Inlets? I have a 335xi if that makes a difference for the rear inlet.

This is the best thread I've found but it's not really a step-by-step:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ighlight=inlet
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      07-07-2016, 09:51 AM   #2
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      07-07-2016, 07:31 PM   #3
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http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35626
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      07-07-2016, 08:10 PM   #4
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Has anyone tried doing both from the top? My jouneyman mechanic buddy and i, are considering it.
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      07-07-2016, 09:33 PM   #5
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Impossible on the rear inlet. Need to cut from bottom if you even hope on getting it out and getting it in will be a whole different battle. Although with two people it may be easier since you can simultaneously push and pull the inlet through
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      07-07-2016, 09:36 PM   #6
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Thanks!
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      07-07-2016, 09:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredcase
Has anyone tried doing both from the top? My jouneyman mechanic buddy and i, are considering it.
The front is easily done from the top but I really don't see how the rear can be done without pulling the dps and going underneath. If you have any thought of doing outlets too I would suggest doing both at the same time and saving yourself a lot of extra labor, that's what I did. I've found it usually ends up up being the better decision to remove more and fight less. Now that I've done both it would be "easy" to do again. IMO the dps and radiator fan are a given. There's a DIY on N 5 4 tech .com for inlets on a 535 that has some good info. The speaker wire trick works well, I used it. Have or fabricate a small T30 torx head, as long a reach as possible to reach the rear inlet bracket screw. I found it to be the most difficult part of the whole install.
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      07-07-2016, 10:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMB335IS
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredcase
Has anyone tried doing both from the top? My jouneyman mechanic buddy and i, are considering it.
The front is easily done from the top but I really don't see how the rear can be done without pulling the dps and going underneath. If you have any thought of doing outlets too I would suggest doing both at the same time and saving yourself a lot of extra labor, that's what I did. I've found it usually ends up up being the better decision to remove more and fight less. Now that I've done both it would be "easy" to do again. IMO the dps and radiator fan are a given. There's a DIY on N 5 4 tech .com for inlets on a 535 that has some good info. The speaker wire trick works well, I used it. Have or fabricate a small T30 torx head, as long a reach as possible to reach the rear inlet bracket screw. I found it to be the most difficult part of the whole install.
how long would you say it takes start to finish?
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      07-08-2016, 08:15 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMB335IS View Post
The front is easily done from the top but I really don't see how the rear can be done without pulling the dps and going underneath. If you have any thought of doing outlets too I would suggest doing both at the same time and saving yourself a lot of extra labor, that's what I did. I've found it usually ends up up being the better decision to remove more and fight less. Now that I've done both it would be "easy" to do again. IMO the dps and radiator fan are a given. There's a DIY on N 5 4 tech .com for inlets on a 535 that has some good info. The speaker wire trick works well, I used it. Have or fabricate a small T30 torx head, as long a reach as possible to reach the rear inlet bracket screw. I found it to be the most difficult part of the whole install.
Could the 'hot side' inlets be installed without removing the downpipes?
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      07-08-2016, 08:25 AM   #10
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I just did vrsf inlets last weekend for my brother in my garage on jack stands.2010 335 x drive Downpipes have to come off in order to make the rear inlet sit perfectly. Also the subframe needs to be lowered along with the engine to make room to pull the rear inlet out. There is a small gap between the firewall and engine, and when frame and engine is dropped that gap increases and u can pull it out

And for that rear torx bolt, I used a 8mm wrench I beleive and torx bit, taped the bit to the wrench and it was small enough to reach back there and loosen the 2 bolts

Last edited by mojobmw_e90; 07-08-2016 at 09:28 AM.
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      07-08-2016, 09:18 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Is there any difference between an install on a 3 series xi vs the 5 series rwd in this thread?
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      07-08-2016, 10:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbecerra View Post
Is there any difference between an install on a 3 series xi vs the 5 series rwd in this thread?
Biggest difference with the xi is having to drop the subframe to remove the DPs. On my RWD I can get my DPs in and out in a hr so it's a no-brainer. AWD is much more involved from what I understand. Also on the 535 the DIY removes a waste gate and that's not necessary on the 335.
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      07-08-2016, 10:09 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reaper0995
Quote:
Originally Posted by LMB335IS View Post
The front is easily done from the top but I really don't see how the rear can be done without pulling the dps and going underneath. If you have any thought of doing outlets too I would suggest doing both at the same time and saving yourself a lot of extra labor, that's what I did. I've found it usually ends up up being the better decision to remove more and fight less. Now that I've done both it would be "easy" to do again. IMO the dps and radiator fan are a given. There's a DIY on N 5 4 tech .com for inlets on a 535 that has some good info. The speaker wire trick works well, I used it. Have or fabricate a small T30 torx head, as long a reach as possible to reach the rear inlet bracket screw. I found it to be the most difficult part of the whole install.
Could the 'hot side' inlets be installed without removing the downpipes?
Maybe but since I haven't installed that style I don't know for sure. The thing about removing the DPs is it gives you the access to cut the stock rear inlet at the bend so it can be pulled out in two pieces. It's not coming out in one piece unless you're dropping the subframe, pulling the intake manifold, or combo of both. Either is more work than pulling the DPs.

The other thing is having good access to the rear turbo snout and making sure the inlet is fully on and square and that the clamp is properly positioned. It's not something you want to have to go back and redo because the inlet slipped off. Take the pain and do it right the first time and save yourself the headaches down the road. A lesson learned many cars ago.
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      07-08-2016, 08:02 PM   #14
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which side of the transmission bolt in the photo should the rear down pipe be on? I'm guessing it is on the wrong side because the inlet doesn't want to line up with the turbo, but I thought I'd make sure before attempting to slide it to the other side (which looks impossible).

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      07-08-2016, 09:47 PM   #15
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well, i pushed the hose to the other side of the transmission bolt. That was even a worse fit so that must have been wrong.

I got the hose back to the correct side again and got it clamped to the turbo. The amount of flange on the turbo doesn't give me much confidence in the joint. When I tried leaving an 1/8" of hose past the clamp, tightening the clamp forced the hose off the flange. I ended up leaving the clamp at the very end of the hose, which means I can't see how well it was seated as I was tightening the clamp. Applying higher torque to the clamp seams to force the hose off even when installed at the very end of the hose.
Has anybody had this joint fail?
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      07-09-2016, 09:26 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tb30570 View Post
well, i pushed the hose to the other side of the transmission bolt. That was even a worse fit so that must have been wrong.

I got the hose back to the correct side again and got it clamped to the turbo. The amount of flange on the turbo doesn't give me much confidence in the joint. When I tried leaving an 1/8" of hose past the clamp, tightening the clamp forced the hose off the flange. I ended up leaving the clamp at the very end of the hose, which means I can't see how well it was seated as I was tightening the clamp. Applying higher torque to the clamp seams to force the hose off even when installed at the very end of the hose.
Has anybody had this joint fail?
Did u clean the turbo inlet with break cleaner. Any oil or residue on the turbo will prevent the inlet to clamp right. I always use hairspray with rubber couplers. Very old trick that still works. Hairspray when dries becomes very tacky especially with pressure on it from the clamp
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      07-09-2016, 02:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMB335IS View Post
Biggest difference .... Also on the 535 the DIY removes a waste gate and that's not necessary on the 335.
Didn't have to cut the front inlet to remove on the 3 series either
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      07-09-2016, 03:02 PM   #18
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while taking off the inlet the coolant hose that goes from the pump to just below the oil filter housing fell off at the top. I could slide the hose on and off by hand so I assumed it needed a new clamp. Turns out the flange was cracked. I'm trying to figure out where to buy a new one. There are two numbers molded into the flange, 7544789 and pa66-gf30.

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      07-09-2016, 03:11 PM   #19
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U need to buy the entire hose and flange. It's not a separate piece. Mine broke as well and pushed my finish date 4 days
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      07-09-2016, 03:14 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90 View Post
U need to buy the entire hose and flange. It's not a separate piece. Mine broke as well and pushed my finish date 4 days
I found an aluminum version of just the flange on ebay (not the whole hose). The part number listed is 11537541992.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-335i-115...FUdSD-&vxp=mtr

Here is a thread about it:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1117422
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      07-09-2016, 03:28 PM   #21
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Didn't have to cut the front inlet to remove on the 3 series either
Nope. That was a given
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      07-09-2016, 03:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Has anyone tried doing both from the top? My jouneyman mechanic buddy and i, are considering it.
Not advisable. It's much, much easier to do with access from the bottom too.
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