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      08-27-2012, 11:13 PM   #1
sammy_0559
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2008 E93 335i  [1.83]
DIY: 335i N54 CrankShaft Position Sensor Replacement (DME FIX? maybe..)

THis is the link to my original problem.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=736949

Okay Recently ran into this problem from time to time WOT followed by Half engine light and car going crazy. Also car cut off boost, and wouldn't shift out of 3rd. scared the daylights out if me then i read the codes and they are shown below they did not want to clear. Restarted the car LONG crank then started up felt like my torque converter was out.. anyways i also got DME internal error codes. so i started but replacing the crank shaft sensor. and decided to do a DIY since i could not find any and could find anyone sharing their experiences.

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Also got a Transmission code that i could not clear with the JB4 you could use INPA, i used my dads Snap On Diagnostic machine DOhicky thingy. anyways cleared it and it went away AFTER I REPLACED THE SENSOR!

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So far so good car is pulling hard and I'm Code free. now lets get on with the DIY shall we.

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First take your air intake off. (not the manifold!)

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assuming you have your cowl off

Then Lets get started.

Tools:
E8 Torx socket

Small flat head screw driver

A ton of extensions

CrankShaft sensor 13 62 7 525 015, and the Gasket (O-Ring)
(NOT CAMSHAFT!!! my dad ordered that one set me back 3 hours -_-)

Long Mechanics Magnet YOu will Drop the screw, haha i did a ton of times.

Plenty of light or a flash light.


The Sensor is located Under the starter i did it while the car was hot BAD IDEA.

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Use a E8 Socket and about 2 long extensions should be Enough

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After the Removal. pull on the wire to get the Sensor out bring it into reach use a small flat head screw driver to un clip the connector carefully.

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Then after its out put the NEW O-ring on the New Sensor, place it in the Hole. then carefully Fish the bolt into the hole without dropping it in the Bay i did about 3 times.


Tighten the Bolt Just snug not too tight.

then reconnect the wire and your done after you put your intakes on, and cowl on...you can leave the cowl off

hope this helped enjoy.

Last edited by sammy_0559; 08-28-2012 at 04:57 PM.
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      09-12-2012, 11:46 PM   #2
CALWATERBOY
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.
.
Bentley says:

.
  • Crank Sensor Torx Bolt Torque........6 ft lb........8 N/M
.
.

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      09-13-2012, 12:40 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY View Post
.
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Bentley says:

.
  • Crank Sensor Torx Bolt Torque........6 ft lb........8 N/M
.
.

Attachment 750166
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      04-11-2013, 03:08 AM   #4
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Good write up!!!
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      04-13-2013, 04:25 PM   #5
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Thanks for this.... I am currently working on it... Your pictures saved me !
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      04-13-2013, 05:33 PM   #6
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I replaced this a while back just for the hell if it lol! Great DIY man!
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      04-13-2013, 06:08 PM   #7
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That sensor was NOT easy to find... All lights are gone, my car runs great......
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      05-01-2013, 07:28 PM   #8
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Good Info. my water pump was gone 2 weeks ago, when shop replace it(aoch! $1.3K), they mentioned there was a code for CrankShaft Position Sensor. I told them don't bother, because there was nothing wrong. I might end up need to replace it too if I got CEL late on.
Thanks!
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      05-17-2013, 03:20 PM   #9
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Thanks for the write up. I had the same problem, I changed the sensor and unfortunately still experiencing the same problem (code came back). Has this happened to anyone else?
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      07-16-2013, 10:27 PM   #10
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Thanks for this DIY. The sensor is hard to find, lots of hoses/wires in the way. My install went as planned. I didn't drop the screw once! Took almost an hour from start to finish.
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      04-23-2014, 11:00 PM   #11
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I'm getting code P2A98, could it be the crankshaft sensor as well? I saw a Youtube video stating that it was a camshaft VANOS sensor and it was a DIY video to replace the camshaft VANOS solenoid.
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      09-24-2014, 08:37 PM   #12
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What are you using to read the codes? And where can I get it?
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      03-14-2015, 10:05 AM   #13
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I replaced my solenoids. Still having the issue.
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      05-10-2015, 12:05 AM   #14
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Cam bearing ledger may need to be replaced.
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      10-15-2015, 08:18 PM   #15
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Thanks for the pics. Really helped.
Just finished this job. Write is all correct. I had this done on my previous 330 and cost was $450 at an Indy shop. So, it saves you at least $300 bucks and can be done in a couple of hours end to end. Only thing I would add....If you don't want to create extra work and who does (?) tape all sockets and extensions together so nothing drops to the splash guard down below and use some RTV to "glue" the bolt in the torx socket when installing the new sensor. Lose this bolt and your not buying it at Home Depot. When removing the faulty sensor try to incorporate the magnetic pick up with the socket to prevent it dropping down as well. Here are a couple of pics...
Steve
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      11-19-2015, 01:12 AM   #16
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How long should this take??
My 2007 e90 n54 going into engine and transmission limp mode at the same time half way to work.
Then for the next 10-15 minutes of driving her.. I have to force her to go 35-40mph in 2nd gear at 2500-3500rpms. Yes, I've tried pulling over shutting her off for 10-15minutes but she still long cranks and limps the rest of the way to work.


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      11-20-2015, 07:27 AM   #17
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1st time. 3-4 hours
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      12-03-2015, 06:33 PM   #18
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Hey everyone, first time poster here. I've been searching EVERYWHERE to figure out my problem. So I bought a 325i n52 06 that was hit in the front. I repaired everything and at first the car wouldn't crank, and then my buddy told me that BMW's have that fuse on the battery where it blows up in case of an accident and won't start. So I replaced that part and cranked it up and it started and ran perfectly fine for about 10 minutes. I shut it off to put on the MAF sensor and box and now I keep getting error p0341 and p010 which are camshaft sensor errors. But the car won't start anymore. I replaced the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensors as well but still won't start because I am not getting spark to the plugs. Am I missing something here? Maybe I fried the ECU? Maybe the OE quality sensors aren't working like OEM or something? I'm just so lost at the moment. Any help or guidance would be appreciated!
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      02-21-2016, 04:30 PM   #19
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Just completed this, the writeup helped alot! One note was that I bought an OEM Siemens/VDO brand replacement sensor, and the offset notch in the wiring plug part (to prevent the harness from being plugged in upside down) was in a different position than the original BMW sensor. I had to rush to the dealer and grab a genuine BMW one for ~$60 more to complete the job. Hopefully it was just a mix-up with mine only but I thought I'd give folks a heads up.
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      03-11-2016, 02:25 PM   #20
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I just completed this last night. I ran into the same issues with an off brand having the notch slighting off. I ended up running to O'reilly and paid double. But this is a really easy job especially if you have DCI. My had to put the sensor back in place for me, my hands were too big. This writeup helped a bunch
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      03-21-2016, 01:30 PM   #21
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For any who have completed this DIY, how did you deal with clearing the adaptive information of the DME...or was this a non-issue? My indy guy (who doesn't overtly discourage DIY repairs) insisted that the computer adapts to the failing sensor's readings and that popping in a new one can leave the car undriveable unless you zero out all the adaptations...which, as I gather, you need an expensive interface to achieve.

I had the 2A94 and 5E1A codes on my 07 e90 n54--intermittent at first, then in conjunction with long cranking and stalling; the car soon stranded me during a busy week and needed to be fixed immediately. With this argument, he effectively talked me out of DIY (already a daunting prospect in heavy rain with no garage or cover) and into a far more expensive repair in terms of both parts and labor. Now I'm wondering how much of an issue this really is.

Last edited by turbonium; 03-21-2016 at 01:31 PM. Reason: fix ratings
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      03-21-2016, 06:26 PM   #22
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I've done this repair twice and didn't clear anything. Worked fine
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