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      02-06-2014, 09:28 PM   #1
stashtrey
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Valve Cover Gasket - planning to DIY. Aside from gasket...what other parts needed?

I have read the DIY 50x+ from Robc.

Have also read many comments about getting new bolts....spark plug seals?!?....and some other little gaskets.

I have the gasket. I don't want to tear it apart more than once but don't want to miss anything.

Any last minute recommedations? I imagine I have a 50/50 chance the cover itself is cracked. Already did the OFH gasket myself.

Trying to save $$ after water pump/t stat and two tows last month.

Any advice is appreciated.
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      02-06-2014, 09:57 PM   #2
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Here is my DIY

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=775317
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      02-06-2014, 10:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
Oh yeah....I've read your DIY many times. Looks like you opted to reuse the old bolts. Also looks like you simply replaced the VCG....

Would you recommend anything else?
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      02-06-2014, 10:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stashtrey View Post
Oh yeah....I've read your DIY many times. Looks like you opted to reuse the old bolts. Also looks like you simply replaced the VCG....

Would you recommend anything else?
to be honest, I would get the valve cover kit from ECStuning (bolts, gasket and brand new cover) all in one kit and then you should also put the RB valve and cap in at same time. Actually, I am going to go order a kit right now. Thus ensued you have a healthy PCV system that is free flowing and not clogged.
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      02-06-2014, 10:45 PM   #5
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I recomend getting the rb valve. My BMW tech who installed it recently said it will definitely help some.
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      02-06-2014, 11:38 PM   #6
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I recently added the RB PVC valve. Not the cap. Also new PCV hose although I run the BMS OCC.
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      02-07-2014, 12:00 AM   #7
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There is no need for new bolts as they are steel. Examine valve cover for cracks especially by spark plug 3 or you will be doing it again. Do not overtightning the bolts (10 Nm) starting from centre bolts. Also use some glycerin on the gasket surface for the gasket to sit it self correctly on the cylinder head.
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      02-07-2014, 01:31 AM   #8
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Going to do this soon, do I need to get a new valve cover?
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      02-07-2014, 08:42 AM   #9
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I'm with Rob. I would just pony up and get the new valve cover kit. It sucks that it's so pricey, but chances are, if your cover isn't cracked already, you'll crack it taking it off. The gasket just bakes onto the cylinder head so bad that getting the cover off is just a pain in the nuts.
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      02-07-2014, 08:50 AM   #10
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I did VCG at 50K at the actual cover was in good shape. Gasket was on the way out and leaky but no obvious cracks when I did a pretty thorough visual inspection. I used new bolts and swapped the gasket but that was it.

At 75K or pending visual inspections i'll replace the actual cover.
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      02-08-2014, 09:10 AM   #11
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I'm curious: Why replace the valve cover if there are no cracks or deformities? And even the bolts?

Valve Cover: ~$360
28 Various Bolts: ~$110

Almost $500 extra for what gain if nothing but the gasket is bad?

Just curious.
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      02-08-2014, 10:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augster;*****551
I'm curious: Why replace the valve cover if there are no cracks or deformities? And even the bolts?

Valve Cover: ~$360
28 Various Bolts: ~$110

Almost $500 extra for what gain if nothing but the gasket is bad?

Just curious.
Most of the time the pcv system is clogged, this can cause crankcase pressure issues and even turbo oil supply issues. On a regular not modded car this may not be needed, on a modded car I would. The valve cover for $360 comes with bolts.
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      02-08-2014, 11:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976;*****712
Most of the time the pcv system is clogged, this can cause crankcase pressure issues and even turbo oil supply issues. On a regular not modded car this may not be needed, on a modded car I would. The valve cover for $360 comes with bolts.
I was going to also replace the PCV valve with an RB one, but is there a non-replaceable filter in the cover itself?

I didn't know a new cover comes with bolts; good to know.

I have no valve cover leaks but am thinking of replacing the gasket as preventative maintenance so I'm not quite sure why there are so many recommendations to replace the cover itself if there are no signs of damage or leaks due to warped cover.

And yes, my car will eventually be modded.
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      02-08-2014, 03:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augster;*****915
I was going to also replace the PCV valve with an RB one, but is there a non-replaceable filter in the cover itself?

I didn't know a new cover comes with bolts; good to know.

I have no valve cover leaks but am thinking of replacing the gasket as preventative maintenance so I'm not quite sure why there are so many recommendations to replace the cover itself if there are no signs of damage or leaks due to warped cover.

And yes, my car will eventually be modded.
It's EXTREMELY easy to break the VC when you take it off...i did :/ The gasket gets baked to the cover and the head and really grabs hold of both.
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      02-08-2014, 04:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwr hungry View Post
It's EXTREMELY easy to break the VC when you take it off...i did :/ The gasket gets baked to the cover and the head and really grabs hold of both.
That certainly sounds like a reason to change the valve cover! But it puts you in a bind: if you don't buy it first and you break the old one, you either have to wait for an online shipment while your car is deadlined, or bite the bullet and pay list price at a local dealer (assuming they have one in stock). If you don't break it and it's still perfectly usable it seems a waste of product to still replace it.

Knowing the potential fragility of the valve cover, I think I'll now wait until it leaks before attempting a VCG R&R, probably buying the whole valve cover just to have it on hand in case I end up breaking it (either through removal or over tightening of bolts). If not, then I could always decide to return it and eat the cost of return shipping as it would certainly be much cheaper than spending $360 if my old valve cover is completely serviceable.
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      02-08-2014, 06:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augster View Post
That certainly sounds like a reason to change the valve cover! But it puts you in a bind: if you don't buy it first and you break the old one, you either have to wait for an online shipment while your car is deadlined, or bite the bullet and pay list price at a local dealer (assuming they have one in stock). If you don't break it and it's still perfectly usable it seems a waste of product to still replace it.

Knowing the potential fragility of the valve cover, I think I'll now wait until it leaks before attempting a VCG R&R, probably buying the whole valve cover just to have it on hand in case I end up breaking it (either through removal or over tightening of bolts). If not, then I could always decide to return it and eat the cost of return shipping as it would certainly be much cheaper than spending $360 if my old valve cover is completely serviceable.
Or post it for sale to offer it up to other forum members...
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      02-08-2014, 09:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augster;*****915
I was going to also replace the PCV valve with an RB one, but is there a non-replaceable filter in the cover itself?

I didn't know a new cover comes with bolts; good to know.

I have no valve cover leaks but am thinking of replacing the gasket as preventative maintenance so I'm not quite sure why there are so many recommendations to replace the cover itself if there are no signs of damage or leaks due to warped cover.

And yes, my car will eventually be modded.
I am reffering to the ports in cover and in head that breath into cover. If you have low mileage than maybe not...anything over 50,000 I would replace.
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      02-08-2014, 09:46 PM   #18
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just did this today as a starter for oil filter housing and oil pan . I will attest the cover could easily be damaged on removal . use a very thin putty knife around as much area as you can get to then go back and CARFULLY pry up on it . my only other recommendation is to install the spark plug sleeves after the cover has been installed makes it much easier to get the cover back in place .hate to say it im pretty good with a wrench and it still took me 5 hours start to finish with maybe 1/2 hour break. not a quick job so the ofhg will have to wait for another day .
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      02-09-2014, 06:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
I am reffering to the ports in cover and in head that breath into cover.
Yes, I saw those photos and your comments in your DIY. Are those holes such that they could not be cleaned if they are filled with buildup and/or debris?
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      02-13-2014, 12:50 PM   #20
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I too am tackling this VCG replacement next week after reading up on Robc DIY guide and plan to buy just the gasket and rb pcv valve and hopefully i won't crack the cover. I have a complete stock engine, and never really run it hard and has 105K miles. Do you guys think i should install an occ to further reduce oil contaminants in the car or should i just do a periodic valve cleaning now and then and stick with just installing the rb pcv?…btw this is a pic of the oil sitting on top of the valve cover along the coil packs so i assume its main leak is from the middle location of the valve cover (inside the "U" shaped gasket)…hopefully the install goes well
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      02-13-2014, 01:47 PM   #21
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I plan on doing the BMS OCC (will now install it along with an RB PCV but not do the VCG until it shows signs of leaking). Even though I will be doing the periodic valve cleaning at 40-50k intervals, the BMS OCC should still help in keeping the buildup to a minimum so the deterioration in performance should not be as pronounced by the time a valve cleaning interval has been reached.

It will be more periodic maintenance (i.e. emptying out the can) but depending on how often it needs to be drained, I'll first stick to emptying during my oil changes unless it fills up much faster than that.
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      02-13-2014, 07:24 PM   #22
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That sounds like a good idea, I'm willing to try everything I could to maintain my car as best as possible...does the bms occ ever give people problems, like throwing error codes etc...? Also where is the PVC located at? I thought it was located next to the fuel rails on the surface of the head, but speaking to the guys at ecs tuning they said its located on the valve cover itself
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