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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Active Autowerke BOV questions



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      08-30-2012, 12:59 PM   #1
m1ka
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Active Autowerke BOV questions

I installed an AA BOV the other day. Install was straight forward and nothing appeared flawed when I finished. Took it out for a drive and felt it wasn't working properly bc I couldn't really hear it "woosh" when shifting. Felt like it was working to 30% of its potential. I was shifting at about 5,500 RPMs.

Brought it home assuming I had a leak in the system. Double checked everything was tight and even retightened/reinstalled the reducer that connects to the IC pipe.

Started car and it seemed to help a bit however I feel its still not quite 100%.

Please LMK if this is correct below:

While idling the "valve" (sorry if that is not correct terminology) is closed similar to this pic i found online.

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When my friend revved to approx 5000-5500 RPMs (in nuetral) and I looked inside the BOV, it appeared that valve slightly cracked thus I heard a faint "whoosh." Still I feel its not working properly bc Ive heard these before and they respond better.

Yes the vacuum line is connected to the top nipple and the lower one has nothing connected.

Please chime in if you have any suggestions or if something similar has happened and you were able to correct.

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      08-30-2012, 01:45 PM   #2
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Did you install a new vacuum line or did you use the existing OEM one? If you installed a new vacuum line you have to be really careful not to break the nipple on the TB housing. It is really simple to do.

Also what tune are you running? If you are still stock you aren't going to hear much of a blow off sound.

http://www.activeautowerke.com/pdf/A...ff%20valve.pdf
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      08-30-2012, 01:51 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedE90 View Post
Did you install a new vacuum line or did you use the existing OEM one? If you installed a new vacuum line you have to be really careful not to break nipple on the TB housing. It is really simple to do.

Also what tune are you running? If you are still stock you aren't going to hear much of a blow off sound.

http://www.activeautowerke.com/pdf/A...ff%20valve.pdf
I never unhooked the vacuum line off the TB. Instead I capped one end at the "Y" connecter and extended a new line on the other output on the "Y" to the top nipple on BOV.

Engine Mods:
Split Second Turbo Tune (Gen 1) (+3.5 psi)
AFE Dual Cone intake w/ scoops
SuperSprint mufflers
*AA BOV

Thanks
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      08-30-2012, 02:02 PM   #4
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I know you said you doubled checked all the CP connections but I would check them again. Also I would be a little leery of the capped Y connector. If you don't feel comfortable pulling the OEM line of the TB housing to run a single line of vacuum house, then maybe try going to an auto parts store and and getting a straight connector.

I am not familiar with the AA BOV but is the screw on the top a spring tension adjuster?
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      08-30-2012, 02:50 PM   #5
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something's not right......At idle, the AA BOV should be OPEN and blowing out air!! I know because I use to have one.

So either the BOV's diaphragm is sticky, or there's something up with the connection/install.....

Just my .02.
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      08-30-2012, 03:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1ka View Post
I never unhooked the vacuum line off the TB. Instead I capped one end at the "Y" connecter and extended a new line on the other output on the "Y" to the top nipple on BOV.

Engine Mods:
Split Second Turbo Tune (Gen 1) (+3.5 psi)
AFE Dual Cone intake w/ scoops
SuperSprint mufflers
*AA BOV

Thanks
I'm not sure I follow.

When you say vacuum of the TB, do you really mean the intake manifold?

There should be a line from the intake manifold to the BOV.

If your SSTT needs a vac line then you could "Y" off the intake manifold.

PS we need to get you a new tune that SSTT is ancient technology
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      08-30-2012, 05:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions View Post
I'm not sure I follow.

When you say vacuum of the TB, do you really mean the intake manifold?

There should be a line from the intake manifold to the BOV.

If your SSTT needs a vac line then you could "Y" off the intake manifold.

PS we need to get you a new tune that SSTT is ancient technology
Correct, the vacuum line connects on the side of the throttle body. Its the stock vacuum line and nothing was removed on that side. I only removed at the "Y."

The SSTT (Split Second Turbo Tuner) connects to the BOV (sort of). Its in between the OEM sensor and the plug that normally would plug into OEM sensor. So it goes: OEM plug --> SSTT --> OEM Sensor --> BOV

SSTT does NOT need a vacuum line.

And yes it is prob time for an upgrade!!! BTW I received all the parts I ordered from you!!! Thanks
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      08-30-2012, 05:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedE90 View Post
I am not familiar with the AA BOV but is the screw on the top a spring tension adjuster?
Yes that is an adjuster however I am a bit worried about removing as I don't have any idea how that adjustment functions.

I feel VERY good about the cap on the "Y." You are right, a coupler is much better situation than a "Y" & cap however, when I went to my parts store they did not have the coupler so i bought the cap. Its strong/durable and on very tight.

I have felt for air leaks and nothing.

--------------

So are you saying that the "trumpet" should be blowing air when car is idling? BC my valve/plunger is closed at idle thus NO air is blowing out (at idle).
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      08-31-2012, 03:07 PM   #9
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OP,

Did you buy the AA BOV used or new? I would call AA and consult them regarding your issue.....When I had issues with my AA BOV(the valve stayed open half way when under full boost, therefore, my boost was only reaching ~11psi when it should really be ~15psi), I called them and they told me that the diaphragm does get worn with time and it is replaceable, costs about ~250 IIRC.

So I decided to opt for the Stett CP with DVs.......Couldn't be happier.
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      08-31-2012, 11:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstmx_ryder View Post
OP,

Did you buy the AA BOV used or new? I would call AA and consult them regarding your issue.....When I had issues with my AA BOV(the valve stayed open half way when under full boost, therefore, my boost was only reaching ~11psi when it should really be ~15psi), I called them and they told me that the diaphragm does get worn with time and it is replaceable, costs about ~250 IIRC.

So I decided to opt for the Stett CP with DVs.......Couldn't be happier.
I bought used from a guy on the forums (e90post) and he was local LA area. Kinda sux bc I bought a couple months ago but never installed until now bc I had to buy the 1" end caps, vacuum line, reducer, clamps, etc.....

I did contact AA and they said it sounds like a diaphragm as it is a common issue. They quoted me at $35 so I really hope that wasn't a typo bc $35 and $250 is a big difference.

Wishing AA would either upgrade the diaphragm, warranty it, or offer free replacements since it is a common issue. When paying $600-$700 new and $400+ used for a BOV, you should rest assure its not going to have common part failures...... especially at $250. I can live with $35 no probs.
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      09-01-2012, 12:14 AM   #11
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OP,

I was told that the whole horn had to be replaced, which meant the whole top piece that's connected to the actual charge pipe......but if they only quoted you for 35 bucks then that's awesome! But I would suggest that you make sure they tell you how to replace the diaphragm because they were telling me that the horn they quoted me would be a direct swap/replacement of the original one.

GL
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      09-01-2012, 09:17 AM   #12
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Did you try adjusting it first? You can take the "horn" apart and adjust it to some degree. I had to do that with mine a short time ago...

Did not know about he premature failures though... is it possible to mount a synapse BOV on the AA charge pipe? Or would that take modification?
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      09-01-2012, 11:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoosyJoos View Post
Did you try adjusting it first? You can take the "horn" apart and adjust it to some degree. I had to do that with mine a short time ago...

Did not know about he premature failures though... is it possible to mount a synapse BOV on the AA charge pipe? Or would that take modification?
Good question.... Im not really sure. I think I am going to replace the diaphragm and go from there.
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      02-01-2014, 06:15 AM   #14
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Hey did you ever do this? Im watching this video here and i can never hear the bov in forst gear and typically can only hear it slightly if i floor it and let off at around 4k
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      09-13-2014, 11:47 PM   #15
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I have the complete opposite problem. Mine is going off like crazy anytime I let off the gas in any gear above 2000 rpm. Ready to chuck it.worked great for about a month.
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      09-14-2014, 08:28 AM   #16
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Super old thread but to update, I did NOT replace the diaphram.... instead I replaced my turbos under the extended warranty and it resolved any/all issues.
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      09-14-2014, 08:35 AM   #17
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I have an AA bov and it works perfect. The sound is great and not super loud. the picture above posted with the valve in the down position when idle looks a lot like mine. someone above posted that it should be open at idle, thats wrong that means contaminants would get inside the engine.

sounds to me like you had an air leak somewhere cause when they replaced ur turbos everything worked fine
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      09-15-2014, 01:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techmaster05 View Post
I have an AA bov and it works perfect. The sound is great and not super loud. the picture above posted with the valve in the down position when idle looks a lot like mine. someone above posted that it should be open at idle, thats wrong that means contaminants would get inside the engine.

sounds to me like you had an air leak somewhere cause when they replaced ur turbos everything worked fine
No, it's NOT wrong, AA BOV should be open and blowing out air at idle.....Ask me how I know
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