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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Change coils along with spark plugs



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      08-30-2013, 08:40 PM   #1
GAaaAR
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Change coils along with spark plugs

Think its time to change my spark plugs even though I haven't noticed any stumbling of the engine. I have 36K miles and been modded with Tune/DCI since 5k miles. What is everyone's general take on changing the coils as well? Should I be changing them along with the spark plugs or wait? I guess if coils will go shortly after the plugs, I might as well change them as well while I'm at it?

Sorry if this topic has been beaten to death, just looking for some help. Also where is the cheapest place I can get coils for the n54?


Thanks in advance.
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      08-30-2013, 08:44 PM   #2
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I got brand new ones on Ebay. Check there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-OEM-BOSC...4ac1e8&vxp=mtr
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      08-31-2013, 12:04 PM   #3
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I got brand new ones on Ebay. Check there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-OEM-BOSC...4ac1e8&vxp=mtr
Thanks. Did you change the coils out of necessity or did you preemptively changed it to avoid future issues?
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      08-31-2013, 01:13 PM   #4
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I would leave them unless you get a misfire. And when you get a misfire, it'll tell you which cylinder is was so you can just replace that specific one.

I've found the coils at most car part stores. Got my last one at Carquest for about 25
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      08-31-2013, 01:18 PM   #5
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Thanks. Also I have a torque wrench that can't measure torque settings. How important is it that I follow the exact torque setting of 20-23nm when tightening the spark plugs? Can I just use a torque wrench to tighten it?
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      08-31-2013, 02:11 PM   #6
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No reason to replace coils unless they are bad. A worn coil wont have any inpact on the car its just when the coil goes you need to replace it. Good idea changing the plugs at your mileage with the tune. I tuned my cat at 35k miles and had two misfires, one plug and one coil. I chaned all the plugs and just the one coil. I have a soare coil at my house so if one goes i will put that in.
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      08-31-2013, 02:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Thanks. Did you change the coils out of necessity or did you preemptively changed it to avoid future issues?
I had one failed coil, but I also had about 65k miles on my original coils. So I figured when one went, the others were probably going to follow suite soon, so rather than get stuck on the side of the road and/or needing to limp home I opted to change all six. The inconvenience of one stranded car was not worth the 200 dollars to replace all six.
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      08-31-2013, 03:22 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the feedback. Did you guys change the spark plug yourselves? If so, how important is it to torque it to their spec of 20-23nm? I have a torque wrench but no way of measuring how much I am torquing it.
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      08-31-2013, 03:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAaaAR
Thanks for all the feedback. Did you guys change the spark plug yourselves? If so, how important is it to torque it to their spec of 20-23nm? I have a torque wrench but no way of measuring how much I am torquing it.
I have done 3 plug changes and never used a tq wrench. You just don't want to jam them too tight or too lose. I like to do the two finger tight, as tight I can get while only using two fingers. Obviously if you have access to one that's the best.
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      08-31-2013, 04:58 PM   #10
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No need to change coils unless there is a failed one. Plugs, I personally don't use a torque wrench. I put two fingers on the ratchet and make them snug. Be sure to get a sparking socket, we have the BMS ones if you need it.
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      08-31-2013, 05:15 PM   #11
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No need to change coils unless there is a failed one. Plugs, I personally don't use a torque wrench. I put two fingers on the ratchet and make them snug. Be sure to get a sparking socket, we have the BMS ones if you need it.
Sorry I'm not mechanically savy, you mean you try to tighten the spark plug by using two fingers and turning the socket correct?
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      08-31-2013, 05:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAaaAR View Post
Sorry I'm not mechanically savy, you mean you try to tighten the spark plug by using two fingers and turning the socket correct?
As I mentioned in my response. As tight as you can get them with only two finders on the wrench.
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      08-31-2013, 05:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Sorry I'm not mechanically savy, you mean you try to tighten the spark plug by using two fingers and turning the socket correct?
Yes sir
Quote:
Originally Posted by joec500 View Post
As I mentioned in my response. As tight as you can get them with only two finders on the wrench.
Funny I didn't even notice your response. Great minds think a like lol
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      08-31-2013, 05:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Yes sir


Funny I didn't even notice your response. Great minds think a like lol
Something I learned from Rigging boats. People would crank on the bolts which would then crack the fiberglass/carbon hulls.
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      08-31-2013, 10:41 PM   #15
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I would not think you would need to change the coils unless you get a misfire or perhaps you get to the 125-150k mark and you change them proactively along with a spark plug change.

Bav auto claims to have coils that will give you better MPG and more horse power. They run over $300.00. You can get an OEM set of Bosch on eBay for around 235.00. As far as plugs go, you want to use anti seize paste and torque them down to spec. This way in 45k you can get them out with no issues.
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      09-01-2013, 09:55 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Something I learned from Rigging boats. People would crank on the bolts which would then crack the fiberglass/carbon hulls.
Cool, I come from a boating background too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I would not think you would need to change the coils unless you get a misfire or perhaps you get to the 125-150k mark and you change them proactively along with a spark plug change.

Bav auto claims to have coils that will give you better MPG and more horse power. They run over $300.00. You can get an OEM set of Bosch on eBay for around 235.00. As far as plugs go, you want to use anti seize paste and torque them down to spec. This way in 45k you can get them out with no issues.
I would avoid the Bavauto coils. I had purchased a set for my e46 a few years ago. They were literally the same coil as the Duralast ones from autozone, and they lasted about as long as the Duralast ones. They just had bav auto painted on the tops in red.
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      09-07-2013, 12:04 PM   #17
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Is anti-seize a must do when installing spark plugs? I heard you have to apply spark plug grease so the coil doesn't get stuck on the spark plug. Does anti-seize do the samething or its for something else?
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      09-07-2013, 12:14 PM   #18
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Never used. Changed many times and no issues
Of course oil the plug thread before tightening
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      09-07-2013, 12:20 PM   #19
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Is anti-seize a must do when installing spark plugs? I heard you have to apply spark plug grease so the coil doesn't get stuck on the spark plug. Does anti-seize do the samething or its for something else?
Do not use anti-seize, Bosch specifically indicates that the plug threads are nickel plated to stop seizing issues and the threads should not be lubricated (meaning no anti-seize) or it can throw off the torque reading. You should use a little dielectric grease inside the boots to stop the boots from sticking to the plugs in the future (only use dielectric as it is no conductive - no other type of grease).

Quote:
Originally Posted by GAaaAR View Post
Thanks for all the feedback. Did you guys change the spark plug yourselves? If so, how important is it to torque it to their spec of 20-23nm? I have a torque wrench but no way of measuring how much I am torquing it.
What does this even mean - you have a torque wrench that can't measure torque - that can only mean 1 of 2 things, you don't have a torque wrench or you have a broken torque wrench!
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      09-07-2013, 04:43 PM   #20
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Do not use anti-seize, Bosch specifically indicates that the plug threads are nickel plated to stop seizing issues and the threads should not be lubricated (meaning no anti-seize) or it can throw off the torque reading. You should use a little dielectric grease inside the boots to stop the boots from sticking to the plugs in the future (only use dielectric as it is no conductive - no other type of grease).



What does this even mean - you have a torque wrench that can't measure torque - that can only mean 1 of 2 things, you don't have a torque wrench or you have a broken torque wrench!

Sorry, I have a ratchet no torque wrench. Thinking about using the 2 finger rule
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      09-11-2013, 07:10 PM   #21
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Thanks for the info gentlemen. Helpful
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      09-14-2013, 12:08 PM   #22
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I have 64k on my car and I believe the plugs were never changed since I dont see it in my service records from the previous owners. My car has started to hiccup and misfire more and more often, I guess it is time to do plugs!
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