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      02-10-2013, 02:42 PM   #1
oshusttoley
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got some money to spend, need some advice

ok so i got some extra cash that i would like to finally use on my car. I am installing the jb4 (g5) this friday. Now i am on the fence of buying either an intercooler, bov kit or meth kit. Now since i already got my mind set on jb4, should i get only the bms meth kit? a shop was trying to sell me the aqua mist kits.... also if i run meth, i would not want to run the meth map that iv heard of, i dont feel safe with that much boost and feel like so much more can go wrong. i already have full bastuck exhaust and ar design catless dp's. thanks and any opinions are welcomed!
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      02-10-2013, 03:06 PM   #2
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I would go with the intercooler. Do you have access to e85 fuel in your area? Personally I would rather run e85 blend than meth.
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      02-10-2013, 03:21 PM   #3
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Intercooler and E85 blend would be the cheaper, easier, safer route. Meth is great but it's just a more involved mod.
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      02-10-2013, 03:27 PM   #4
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intercooler! let's hear that engine spool
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      02-10-2013, 03:30 PM   #5
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Intercooler and E85 i got the vrsf 7" intercooler on the way
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      02-10-2013, 06:20 PM   #6
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Intercooler and E85 i got the vrsf 7" intercooler on the way
i was looking at the vrsf 7'. its so cheap compared to other ones, how could you say no lol do you recommend i get an OCC when upgrading intercooler?
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      02-10-2013, 06:22 PM   #7
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I would go with the intercooler. Do you have access to e85 fuel in your area? Personally I would rather run e85 blend than meth.
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Intercooler and E85 blend would be the cheaper, easier, safer route. Meth is great but it's just a more involved mod.
only thing is i know nothing about e85 mixtures. i heard though its more harsh on your injectors and HPFP's. correct me if im wrong but meth just lowers AIT? so wouldnt that be safer mod for longevity or the motor?
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      02-10-2013, 06:27 PM   #8
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You should start looking at brakes and suspension too before putting too much power in.
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      02-10-2013, 08:48 PM   #9
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You should start looking at brakes and suspension too before putting too much power in.
I think the factory brakes and sport suspension are pretty good. If anything, I'd put good money into some good rubber before those two.

Knowing what I know now, I'd buy an oil catch can before the tune, the intake, and the intercooler.
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      02-10-2013, 11:40 PM   #10
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I think the factory brakes and sport suspension are pretty good. If anything, I'd put good money into some good rubber before those two.

Knowing what I know now, I'd buy an oil catch can before the tune, the intake, and the intercooler.
I agree on the tires and the catch can, but I can max the suspension in my 328i ZSP which is the same. I know the brakes are upgraded on the 335i but a common mistake is to think a 400+ hp car, which i think is where the op is heading, doesn't need more stopping power.

Some better bushings and at least an upper strut bar will help cornering a mean machine. I am a fan of go fast bolt ons but the chassis needs some love too.
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      02-11-2013, 12:23 PM   #11
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[quote=rorkor;13460576Some better bushings and at least an upper strut bar will help cornering a mean machine. I am a fan of go fast bolt ons but the chassis needs some love too.[/QUOTE]

+1
There is a lot more to good driving than just going really fast in a straight line. If you can corner better, and stop better, than you can keep your mean speed higher throughout (faster time from point A to point B, where ever that may be)
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      02-11-2013, 12:28 PM   #12
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also depending on how many miles are on the car you might want to consider cleaning the intake ports; i.e. walnut blasting. I know spending extra cash on maintenance probably wasn't what you had in mind but it does help, considerably
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      02-11-2013, 12:30 PM   #13
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      02-11-2013, 12:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenewrick
Intercooler and E85 blend would be the cheaper, easier, safer route. Meth is great but it's just a more involved mod.
+1
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      02-11-2013, 07:35 PM   #15
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You still have Runflats? If so, ditch them.
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      02-14-2013, 01:03 PM   #16
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I have michelline super sport non run flat. Great tires.
I love them. I just think buying an intercooler for 600+ seems like a lot for such a little gain. And walnut blasting isn't on my list. My car doesn't have the symptoms for that yet lol
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      02-14-2013, 01:09 PM   #17
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I would invest the money and make more money
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      02-14-2013, 01:12 PM   #18
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I would invest the money and make more money
Lol
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      02-14-2013, 01:43 PM   #19
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I agree on the tires and the catch can, but I can max the suspension in my 328i ZSP which is the same. I know the brakes are upgraded on the 335i but a common mistake is to think a 400+ hp car, which i think is where the op is heading, doesn't need more stopping power.
Agreed on better stopping power needed for high HP cars, but it's a common mistake to think stopping power is improved with upgraded brakes. In almost all non-track scenarios, the main determinant of stopping power is TIRES, not brakes. The reason is that until the brakes overheat (which would only happen during a track session), they can usually grip hard enough to stop the wheels very quickly, which you can see in non-ABS cars as wheel lockup. The problem is that you don't WANT wheel lockup (since that leads to a slide, which means very little grip and thus longer stopping distance, in addition to difficulty controlling the car), so of course modern cars have ABS. But the problem with ABS is that it requires the brakes to ease up on the wheels to allow the tires to maintain their grip. What you WANT is for the brakes to be able to continue gripping the wheels nonstop as hard as they can AND for that not to send the car into a slide.

Since wheel lockup (and thus ABS intervention) happens when the tires can't grip the road anymore under the extreme braking load, the solution is....you guessed it, grippier tires! Incidentally, this is why track people who switch to extremely grippy tires, particularly R-compounds or slicks, often end up also having to upgrade their brakes -- when the tires can continue gripping the road and avoid lockup even under extreme braking, ABS doesn't kick in, which means the brake pads stay in constant contact with the rotors and thus your braking system overheats faster.

The ONLY reasons you should be upgrading brakes are if your braking habits overheat your brake system or you need to perform hard stops from speeds so high that the brake system wouldn't be able to lock up the wheels or trigger ABS very quickly -- but as I said, neither of those two scenarios happens anywhere except the track, or maybe emergency maneuvers on the autobahn in the latter case.
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      02-14-2013, 10:14 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Agreed on better stopping power needed for high HP cars, but it's a common mistake to think stopping power is improved with upgraded brakes. In almost all non-track scenarios, the main determinant of stopping power is TIRES, not brakes. The reason is that until the brakes overheat (which would only happen during a track session), they can usually grip hard enough to stop the wheels very quickly, which you can see in non-ABS cars as wheel lockup. The problem is that you don't WANT wheel lockup (since that leads to a slide, which means very little grip and thus longer stopping distance, in addition to difficulty controlling the car), so of course modern cars have ABS. But the problem with ABS is that it requires the brakes to ease up on the wheels to allow the tires to maintain their grip. What you WANT is for the brakes to be able to continue gripping the wheels nonstop as hard as they can AND for that not to send the car into a slide.

Since wheel lockup (and thus ABS intervention) happens when the tires can't grip the road anymore under the extreme braking load, the solution is....you guessed it, grippier tires! Incidentally, this is why track people who switch to extremely grippy tires, particularly R-compounds or slicks, often end up also having to upgrade their brakes -- when the tires can continue gripping the road and avoid lockup even under extreme braking, ABS doesn't kick in, which means the brake pads stay in constant contact with the rotors and thus your braking system overheats faster.

The ONLY reasons you should be upgrading brakes are if your braking habits overheat your brake system or you need to perform hard stops from speeds so high that the brake system wouldn't be able to lock up the wheels or trigger ABS very quickly -- but as I said, neither of those two scenarios happens anywhere except the track, or maybe emergency maneuvers on the autobahn in the latter case.
:

OK, not getting to deep into it but OP already stated he has upgraded his tires. I never said he had to go BBK, as he didn't say he had 4 or 5k left to spend. By upgrading to steel lines, putting Porterfield or other improved pads on, for a couple hundred bucks, he will have a better system. He does not have M3 brakes as you do so it would serve him well to pay mind to them.

I know many people that can overheat and warp their brakes without the track or autobahn, which the latter should never lead to crazy braking unless it is an emergency or you are a total idiot. I doubt this guy keeps it under 3k rpm around town. Breaking traction can happen long before wheel lock, which really has nothing to do with why I made my suggestion.

I am one of those "track people" and I bought my dot-r compounds for grip when I achieved high lateral G and would break the rear end out or when pushing through esses where the paint makes harder tires slip, not for improved braking as that is what the brakes are for. I use my brakes for 2 reasons, in-line braking before turn in, or trail braking (which when done properly is the most fun) and find the soft lines and scorched pads to be a higher risk than superheated rotors as I am not racing at 200mph and slamming to a 5mph hairpin like an F1 car.

I still firmly stand behind doing a couple grand worth of modest suspension and brake system upgrades & preventative performance replacements whenever pushing a cars limits. It is the ultimate driving machine, not the ultimate drag racing machine.
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      02-14-2013, 10:18 PM   #21
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Aquamists are great kits. We had one on our 2004 STi and is performed flawlessly. We picked up 50 TQ with just the meth! (built motor, build heads, big turbo)

Anyways, I recommend the Cobb AP, Aquamist Meth Kit, or E85! Let us know if you have any questions and I would be more then happy to help you out!

-Chris
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      02-14-2013, 10:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
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OK, not getting to deep into it but OP already stated he has upgraded his tires. I never said he had to go BBK, as he didn't say he had 4 or 5k left to spend. By upgrading to steel lines, putting Porterfield or other improved pads on, for a couple hundred bucks, he will have a better system. He does not have M3 brakes as you do so it would serve him well to pay mind to them.

I know many people that can overheat and warp their brakes without the track or autobahn, which the latter should never lead to crazy braking unless it is an emergency or you are a total idiot. I doubt this guy keeps it under 3k rpm around town. Breaking traction can happen long before wheel lock, which really has nothing to do with why I made my suggestion.

I am one of those "track people" and I bought my dot-r compounds for grip when I achieved high lateral G and would break the rear end out or when pushing through esses where the paint makes harder tires slip, not for improved braking as that is what the brakes are for. I use my brakes for 2 reasons, in-line braking before turn in, or trail braking (which when done properly is the most fun) and find the soft lines and scorched pads to be a higher risk than superheated rotors as I am not racing at 200mph and slamming to a 5mph hairpin like an F1 car.

I still firmly stand behind doing a couple grand worth of modest suspension and brake system upgrades & preventative performance replacements whenever pushing a cars limits. It is the ultimate driving machine, not the ultimate drag racing machine.
Pads and lines don't do anything for you if the ones you have now arn't worn out, especially on the street. The only way you will see a gain in breaking performance is with a bigger/larger count of pistons in your calipers, AKA BBK.

While the suspension portion could be upgraded even on a stock car, it's not needed. The only thing this car really needs is an LSD and good tires to perform well on the street.
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