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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > VRSF 3" DP's



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      09-15-2012, 03:03 PM   #1
Zebra99
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VRSF 3" DP's

Getting these installed as we speak. Space is ridiculously tight and we've adjuster twice already....still leaning up against the subframe wall/lining on passenger side. (I think this is common)

Anyone else have similar fitment issues? I'm hoping the go on without a rattle; that would piss me right off lol.

I have to say tho...I'm excited to get her started and test it out
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      09-15-2012, 03:05 PM   #2
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mine fit perfect!!!!
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      09-15-2012, 03:11 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bme30
mine fit perfect!!!!
:'( not mine. They're right up against that shield and bolt.

Hopefully my WG rattle is louder than my DP rattle lol..

Gotta figure this out, unacceptable.
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      09-15-2012, 04:15 PM   #4
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Seen plenty of threads about VRSF DP's rattling.
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      09-15-2012, 04:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBoosting
Seen plenty of threads about VRSF DP's rattling.
Ivo mentioned that if we remove the shield/bolt then I'll have the necessary space. He said it won't cause any harm cause apparently the 2011+ i or is doesn't have that shield.

I'm just paranoid, but still I shouldn't have to remove that. Got to discuss this with Tiago

Edit: anyone have recommendations for JB4 maps. I felt like map 5 picked up a bit quicker than map 2. I'm just concerned that the last time I dynoed map 1 made 15trq. more than Map 5.
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      09-15-2012, 04:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebra99 View Post
Ivo mentioned that if we remove the shield/bolt then I'll have the necessary space. He said it won't cause any harm cause apparently the 2011+ i or is doesn't have that shield.

I'm just paranoid, but still I shouldn't have to remove that. Got to discuss this with Tiago
You can bend back or remove the heatshield with Cat**** downpipes, so you will be good. It's there for the heat from the cats
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      09-15-2012, 04:49 PM   #7
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All DP's are tight there. I installed mine loose and wedged a pry bar in there, tightened everything down and removed the pry bar afterwards. There should be a 1/8 to 1/4 space between the DP and subframe. No rattle! I think most problems people have with DP's are install related.
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      09-15-2012, 05:04 PM   #8
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On a side note, I just got some VRSF's also (ceramic coated) and I noticed that the weld on the mating piece on the interior of the pipe kind of sticks up some on both pipes and intrudes into the interior of the pipe where exhaust will be flowing; it's a little worse on one than the other (see bottom dead center of inner pipe in pic). I'd say it sticks up about 3/16" and I would just file it down but the corresponding spot on the outside of the pipe here is already kind of thin and indented so i'm afraid to make it too thin here. Did you notice this on your pipes? I'm wondering if this is a big deal and worth sending the pipes back for; could it cause some airflow blockage or turbulence or something or is it nothing to worry about? Maybe others can chime in. Also, the second pic shows about a one inch long spot where the ceramic coating was scraped off when I got them. Should I send these pipes back or no big deal?
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      09-15-2012, 05:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikitino25
On a side note, I just got some VRSF's also (ceramic coated) and I noticed that the weld on the mating piece on the interior of the pipe kind of sticks up some on both pipes and intrudes into the interior of the pipe where exhaust will be flowing; it's a little worse on one than the other (see bottom dead center of inner pipe in pic). I'd say it sticks up about 3/16" and I would just file it down but the corresponding spot on the outside of the pipe here is already kind of thin and indented so i'm afraid to make it too thin here. Did you notice this on your pipes? I'm wondering if this is a big deal and worth sending the pipes back for; could it cause some airflow blockage or turbulence or something or is it nothing to worry about? Maybe others can chime in. Also, the second pic shows about a one inch long spot where the ceramic coating was scraped off when I got them. Should I send these pipes back or no big deal?
Too much headaches for everything you listed. I wouldn't touch inside if it's minimal, airflow will be fine.

Ivo ended up having to grind the inside a little bit where the O2 sensors screw in, it was protruding the sensor screwing all the way in.

As for noise....seems to be okay, minimal rattle. I hear my WG a bit more though lol.
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      09-15-2012, 06:24 PM   #10
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Try leaving the brace the holds the cat back up a little loose. In my experience, if you tighten it like its supposed to be it pulls everything in, in a weird way and rattles.
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      09-15-2012, 06:36 PM   #11
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No issues with my install. As for the weld, You can get a cheep high speed grinder at like harbor freight or if you know someone with a Dremel you can get down inside and clean up that weld. Shouldn't cause much issue. Nice that you got them coated. I wish I would have coated mine, but I don't track my car so it doesn't get ran hard too often. Good luck...
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      09-15-2012, 07:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebra99 View Post
Ivo mentioned that if we remove the shield/bolt then I'll have the necessary space. He said it won't cause any harm cause apparently the 2011+ i or is doesn't have that shield.

I'm just paranoid, but still I shouldn't have to remove that. Got to discuss this with Tiago

Edit: anyone have recommendations for JB4 maps. I felt like map 5 picked up a bit quicker than map 2. I'm just concerned that the last time I dynoed map 1 made 15trq. more than Map 5.
Go with Map 5. I'm boosting 17 psi, probably CDP is what wakes up Map 5.
I ran Map 2 the other day and it was nothing compared to Map 5.
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      09-15-2012, 08:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebra99 View Post
Ivo mentioned that if we remove the shield/bolt then I'll have the necessary space. He said it won't cause any harm cause apparently the 2011+ i or is doesn't have that shield.

I'm just paranoid, but still I shouldn't have to remove that. Got to discuss this with Tiago

Edit: anyone have recommendations for JB4 maps. I felt like map 5 picked up a bit quicker than map 2. I'm just concerned that the last time I dynoed map 1 made 15trq. more than Map 5.
Go with Map 5. I'm boosting 17 psi, probably CDP is what wakes up Map 5.
I ran Map 2 the other day and it was nothing compared to Map 5.
Ya feels better. I'm gonna run the car like that for a while to prep her for Cayuga on sept 23rd. I need to break 12's lol.
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      09-16-2012, 03:03 AM   #14
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switch that bolt out for one with a lower profile head, and just bend and reform that heat shield.
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      09-16-2012, 05:32 AM   #15
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Mine rub on turns... Really annoying in the process of upgrading. Guess u get what you pay for.
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      09-16-2012, 05:51 AM   #16
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the fitment scared me too. but my friends shop that he recommended did an awesome job. i was going to do it at home but after reading so much about the struggles and time it would take with out a lift. i said il just have speedelement do it. did it in under 2 hours. no rattle. they have dont plenty of downpipes for n54 so i knew i could trust them. i contacted vrsf about it and they said well hey we can fit them and if u cant just return it for full refund. great downpipe. bang for ur buck. fitment problems are the one in a couple hundred downpipes. well fits for everyone else.
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      09-16-2012, 06:31 PM   #17
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I know a couple people who had that same issue. I had to bend my heatshield a bit also during my first DP install. Either way though Ivo is the man and can make everything work haha.

Keep running map 5, it never does well on the dyno, but I've done a lot of testing on the street with our petro 94 on map 2 vs map 5 and map 5 is HANDS DOWN the winner.
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      09-16-2012, 07:50 PM   #18
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Here's the problem. 99% of the people who install these aren't aware that there's a an adjustment for the catback hanger that moves side to side. Every car has different tolerances which is why this adjustment is in place. Even the OEM tolerances aren't perfect, which is why the adjustment is there.

I've returned a few sets of downpipes for "rattling" and I've test fitted each and everyone on our shop car and while there is the occasional dud, (3 out of the 308 we've sold), the rest fit perfectly by adjusting that mid pipe hanger. You can remove the heat shield which I've had to do with plenty of the big $ downpipes or you can adjust the mid pipe hanger. There's usually a few ways to fix the problems, it just requires the knowledge/experience to do so.

Any 3" downpipe is going to rattle if it's not adjusted correctly. There's just not enough room in there to bolt the DP's up without clocking them correctly first.

The first time someone installs a set and it rattles, they generally post about the rattle, then I reply with the appropriate corrections and then the rattle is resolved, yet the it never gets posted publicly so when you see people complaining about rattling, you have to keep in mind that in most cases the problem is solved & you're just not seeing the response posted. There's also the instance of the downpipes enhancing the sound of the wastegate rattle which the untrained ear won't be able to differentiate.

Whether it's fitment or installation, we're more than happy to help customers with their installs and we stand by our product 100%. Rattling/rubbing/touching is not an acceptable standard to us and it's not how these downpipes are meant to be installed.

If you're having trouble, shoot me an e-mail and I'll be happy to help
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      09-18-2012, 03:39 PM   #19
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I have rattlin issues as well. Can someone point to me what would normally cause it?
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      09-18-2012, 03:44 PM   #20
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I have rattlin issues as well. Can someone point to me what would normally cause it?
Look above your post!
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      09-18-2012, 04:45 PM   #21
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I have rattlin issues as well. Can someone point to me what would normally cause it?
It could be WG rattle or DP rattle on the subframe heat shield. You'll find that the DP's sit very close or right on the heat shield/bolt on your passenger side.

I'll likely be removing the heat shield because I don't have cats anymore.
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      09-18-2012, 05:42 PM   #22
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The mid pipe hangar has fixed almost every instance of rattling I've seen so far.
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