This is a DIY for installing a VRSF Charge Pipe on an N55 335i, this may be applicable to other aftermarket Charge Pipes as well. Read thoroughly before taking anything apart, and feel free to PM or comment with any questions/concerns.
- Torx T30
- Torx T20
- 10mm Hex Socket (extender would be useful)
- Flathead screwdriver
- A bit for the two Boost Sensor screws provided with your CP
- Gloves (optional, things are pretty hot)
First Stage: Removing Air Intake
Remove OEM airbox lid by unplugging MAF sensor connector, unsnapping 4 clips holding it down to airbox, and removing the single screw holding it to the OEM rubber elbow.
After you pull out the intake you will be left with a box that needs to be pulled out. The only thing keeping this box attached is two rubber grommets and some tubes attached in the rear.
You will begin by detaching the 3 hoses behind the box by pulling up on them (Green Circles). There is a 4th small hose held down by a clip, unclip it. Now the box is only held down by two rubber grommets, push them down and pull up on the box (Red Cirlces)
Second Stage: Removing stock Charge Pipe
Now you should have access to the stock Charge Pipe. The pipe is held down in 3 locations as well as the attached boost sensor. First remove the boost sensor with a Torx T20. (pull it out gently, donít want to damage this)
Next you will remove the stock Charge Pipe
- 1. Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp
- 2. Use a Torx T30 to take off this bolt (you will no longer need this bolt)
- 3. Use a Flathead screwdriver to pry this piece off (You will need this, keep it)
Time to pry the CP off, detach at location #3 and give a solid pull at location #1.
Third Stage: Installing the VRSF Charge Pipe
Place the new O ring on the new CP. (VRSF provided a new O, if you do not have one then transfer your old one over to the new CP) It is recommended that you oil up the O ring.
Place a T-Clamp (or whatever you were provided) onto the smaller end of the Rubber connector, and ease it onto the connection pictured below.
Attach the Charge Pipe and the other T-Clamp to the larger end of the rubber connector, do not tighten the clamps yet.
Maneuver the top of the Charge Pipe to fit onto the top connection shown below, this may take some time just be patient.
Place the piece that was originally keeping the stock CP connected at the top onto the new CP, this should keep the new CP in place so that you can connect the Boost Sensor and tighten the T-Clamps below.
Attach Boost sensor. You should have been supplied two small screws with the new Charge Pipe that will be used to attach the Boost Sensor. Be very careful not to drop these screws, and to align them perfectly straight before screwing them in. (Providing same image, couldn't take a picture)
Final Stage: Tightening T-Clamps
If you do not attach the clamps correctly the CP will pop off during your first major boost peak. (This happened to me)
The rubber connector must be pushed as far onto each connection as possible, after you are sure you cannot feed anymore pipe into either end of the rubber connector you will move each of the two T-Clamps to the furthest edge of the rubber connector. Make sure when you tighten the T-Clamp with the 10mm socket that the clamp does not move to the sides. If you are not sure if the clamp is tight enough then it is not tight enough, keep tightening until you canít anymore. It should look like this at the end.
Congratulations: You have installed your new Charge Pipe!!
Yank it around a little bit to make sure it is as secure as possible, then begin putting everything else back together. I highly recommend using a code reader such as Cobb AP to clear all codes then take it out for a good hard run and read codes afterwards. If you hear a pop then the rubber connector most likely popped off, just stay off the boost and return home slowly to re-attach it.
Comments are welcome, sorry for the blurry photos and noob terminology.