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      09-27-2012, 01:01 PM   #1
NJ 1161
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Cars not been anywhere few a couple of weeks, and today I stated playing with the wires on my dct gearknob so managed to deaden the battery.

Only had a small battery charger 6 amp so put the car on charge using the under bonnet positive and negative poles.

Came out and car was clicking and middle dash bit just flashing red! What the?.

Stated mild panic so went and got mates big jump pack ( although this only half charged) Hooked this up and ignition all worked and had lights etc but got a red symbol in dash,



Car won't start.

Then I drive chipped in,



Is this just because there's still not enough charge in the battery?..

How do I get rid?...
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      09-27-2012, 01:10 PM   #2
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Is this just because there's still not enough charge in the battery?..
How do I get rid?...
Yes.

Needs a good run,not a good idea to do the run in the evening (lights/heating etc),do the run in daylight and use as little power as poss to give the battery a good charge.

Once charged,the warning lights will disappear.
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      09-27-2012, 01:13 PM   #3
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Problem is I can't start it. Have no faith in the battery charger I have as this seemed to cause issues?
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      09-27-2012, 01:23 PM   #4
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It appears that steering column needs to be replaced. I had mine replaced under warranty few years ago...
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      09-27-2012, 01:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo
It appears that steering column needs to be replaced. I had mine replaced under warranty few years ago...
Surely not! I have read about this but think this is an unrelated issue. I think ( hope) my issue is due to low battery charge, as I completely drained my battery?.

Think your issue happens on a full battery.
Just been on line and ordered a new battery to pick up locally tomorrow. Euro car parts have 15 per cent off so Bosch is £77.

Anyone know if I fit this will my car start and the red padlock vanish? Looks a bit complicated fitting a battery on one of these.
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      09-27-2012, 01:45 PM   #6
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Get the same battery (amperes).
Change the battery and this should go away.
If it does not, just clear the fault codes and it should be fine to drive.

Common fault!
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      09-27-2012, 01:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makkan00
Get the same battery (amperes).
Change the battery and this should go away.
If it does not, just clear the fault codes and it should be fine to drive.

Common fault!
Thanks makkan. Do you mean a battery of he same amperage??

The one I've reserved is a Bosch 90 amp, which I believe to be a direct replacement.
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      09-27-2012, 01:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ 1161 View Post
Thanks makkan. Do you mean a battery of he same amperage??

The one I've reserved is a Bosch 90 amp, which I believe to be a direct replacement.
Yup, thats what I meant.

Check amerage of your current battery and new one. They should be same. As if they are different, then you will be looking to register the new battery.

Best of luck and keep us update.
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      09-27-2012, 01:58 PM   #9
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Read about this registering batteries thing. Thanks for the tip. Will check and make sure same amps. Think it's 90 a/h.
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      09-27-2012, 02:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makkan00 View Post
Yup, thats what I meant.

Check amerage of your current battery and new one. They should be same. As if they are different, then you will be looking to register the new battery.

Best of luck and keep us update.
Sorry to take it off topic OP but is it true that if the batt is same amps then no need to register it to the car?

OP - I would presume the fault code may still be logged in the memory so may need clearing via cable but try it first with the new battery

low battery can play havoc with electronics esp with a car like this and all the sensors etc
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      09-27-2012, 02:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistryn View Post
Sorry to take it off topic OP but is it true that if the batt is same amps then no need to register it to the car?

OP - I would presume the fault code may still be logged in the memory so may need clearing via cable but try it first with the new battery

low battery can play havoc with electronics esp with a car like this and all the sensors etc
A very good hypothesis and I'd really like to experiment it myself.

I have seen my local indy fitting battery in 7 series and it worked fine due to same amperage.

However across the pond, consensus is that you will need to register new battery even if it is of same amerpage.
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      09-27-2012, 02:41 PM   #12
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Ooo, so this is not a proven theory?

How do you actually register a battery?..

I will of course let you guys know how I get on once fitted. Fingers crossed.
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      09-27-2012, 02:52 PM   #13
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From what I read registering is easily done through BMW DIS and shouldnt take more than 15 mins
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      09-27-2012, 03:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ 1161 View Post
Ooo, so this is not a proven theory?

How do you actually register a battery?..

I will of course let you guys know how I get on once fitted. Fingers crossed.

It could be that it is must for USA cars but not for UK versions.

Just replace it and hopefully it should be fine.

In worst case, find a garage with Autologic and ask them to register it.
Or if you have local coder in your region, then worth of getting in touch with that person.

M3 requires 90A so you should be fine with it.
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      09-27-2012, 03:24 PM   #15
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Yup, will try it and see. Problem I have is if it dosnt clear the car won't start!! Kept a close your on the coding thread but no one local as such!
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      09-27-2012, 04:57 PM   #16
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B/W have your tried to charge the current battery?
And checked the voltage (with voltmeter)?
On 14.8 volts, it should start and this error should go away.

If not, then get somebody to clear these codes and try again to start.
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      09-27-2012, 06:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ 1161 View Post
Surely not! I have read about this but think this is an unrelated issue. I think ( hope) my issue is due to low battery charge, as I completely drained my battery?.

Think your issue happens on a full battery.
Just been on line and ordered a new battery to pick up locally tomorrow. Euro car parts have 15 per cent off so Bosch is £77.

Anyone know if I fit this will my car start and the red padlock vanish? Looks a bit complicated fitting a battery on one of these.
Why are you buying a new battery?

Your existing battery is probably fine,just discharged due to lack of use.

I had exactly the same issue as you with my battery,every warning light/audible alarm going off,including steering lock/DSC/DTC/EML/tyre pressure warning etc.

Called out BMW,they jumpstarted the car,and I took it for a good run,and it was fine.

Either get a mate to give you a jump start (from their battery,with their car engine running),or put the battery on charge.
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      09-28-2012, 12:58 AM   #18
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Tried to charge (cheap battery charger admitantly ) and came out and car clicking and centre dash light flashing red. All not good, and worried me about the batt chargers capability. It is rated to 70 amp and cost £18!

In addition to this the way the cars positioned on driver and no jump start unless I get 15ft jump leads. Plus cars got no bumper on so can't really drive to charge!!

But main reason for buying new battery is just as I think it needs one. About the fourth/ fifth time I've had flat battery when tinkering with it, and think its original battery.

All above put together plus the cost of a decent charger, made a battery seem a good choice, and piece of mind it's tip top ahead of winter.
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      09-29-2012, 05:55 AM   #19
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New battery on. Same as before. Clearly power now and just steering lock defective message. Can't start, move or do anything with it.

Not worried about purchase of battery as needed new one anyway.

I have been playing with the gearlnob illumination wires and these are currently half done. Could this be anything to do with it ??

So, opinions please.

I'm thinking gear knob is just coincidence, and I need the fault cleared as suggested by mak.

Help, any coders near Ipswich , Suffolk??
Mak- do you travel that far??
Time to have a re read through the coding thread.
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      09-29-2012, 07:11 AM   #20
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Get the fault cleared and work from there... I had similar issues with my 330d, (battery issue), but once all was cleared and reset, everything was all good.
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      09-29-2012, 07:18 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ 1161 View Post
New battery on. Same as before. Clearly power now and just steering lock defective message. Can't start, move or do anything with it.

Not worried about purchase of battery as needed new one anyway.

I have been playing with the gearlnob illumination wires and these are currently half done. Could this be anything to do with it ??

So, opinions please.

I'm thinking gear knob is just coincidence, and I need the fault cleared as suggested by mak.

Help, any coders near Ipswich , Suffolk??
Mak- do you travel that far??
Time to have a re read through the coding thread.
Sorry to hear that mate.

I would suggest you to finish with gearknob job first and try again.

What year is your car?

This is how I would approach it;

1- Finish your task what you started and got involved into this bussiness. Once that is done, take out negative wire from the battery for 20-30 minutes and let ECU to reset itself. It should take out the errors.
2- Once that is finished, you need to clear all the codes to see if steering lock disappears. A cheap code resetter will help you here (any friend who may have).
3- Step 2 should work and if it does not, you may have to reset your steering angle sensor. You have M3, which has more resettings than the standard car.
4- If step 3 does not resolve your car, then you need to reflash your module and repeat step 3 afterwards.
5- Lastly, if step 4 does not help, then you will be looking to take your car to dealer / indy to change your steering coloumn.

Stay clam, try step 1 and 2 and get back to us.
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      09-29-2012, 01:57 PM   #22
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If you was over Birmingham area I would have scanned/cleared any error codes that you have
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