[mccannable]

had the music off on the way to work this morn(rare) and heard/felt a slight vibration from back when light braking. thought it was just rust from a wash w/o driving for a day. so did some hard stops and it felt like it went away for a bit. driving home it was back but still very light. When i got home i looked at the rotors and the seemed to have areas on them like the pads were resting for a long time in multiple spots. both rear rotors are the same as this issue goes. both are stoptech w/ stoptech pads about 4 months old.

im going auto x this weekend and don't have time to get new rotors pads mailed to me. I just dont want this to be an issue.

pics.
bottom left

[mccannable]

i think its called deposits.

[DallasBoosted]

Its not going to be an issue at an autox.

But, you need to properly bed the pads when you get them. These uneven deposits are the result of improper or lack of bedding.

[mccannable]

i did the bedding when i installed them. i am going to try to re bed them tomorrow. seems to be a commin issue the more i search. just doesnt seem to be any solution.

[DallasBoosted]

Originally Posted by mccannable

i did the bedding when i installed them. i am going to try to re bed them tomorrow. seems to be a commin issue the more i search. just doesnt seem to be any solution.

Best solution would be to have a set of very abrasive pads (like Hawk blues) and do a stop or two with those to scrape the junk off the rotors.

Failing that, rebedding is really the only thing you can do.

[Johnny D]

Im no brake expert, but to me it looks like you got the rotor and pads wet while they were hot.

[mccannable]

Originally Posted by Johnny D

Im no brake expert, but to me it looks like you got the rotor and pads wet while they were hot.

Maybe in rain. But when I wash car is cold

[Meeni]

This is a very common issue, not brand specific. You can try to scrap the rotors with a hooning head and redo the bedding process. It may or may not solve the issue.

This is not a problem for autox, but it can be quite anoying when driving in town.

[mccannable]

Could I have them turned?

[TSM330i]

It looks to me like you drove the car hard and then parked it with the ebrake on. This will cause issues as you're feeling with a pad transfer and if they're really hot, could cause slight warping.
Try what Meeni said with a hooning head to get the deposits off and then rebed the pads.
I don't think you'll need to have them turned at this point.

[DallasBoosted]

Most normal places won't turn drilled rotors anyway.

[David1]

Originally Posted by TSM330i

It looks to me like you drove the car hard and then parked it with the ebrake on. This will cause issues as you're feeling with a pad transfer and if they're really hot, could cause slight warping.
Try what Meeni said with a hooning head to get the deposits off and then rebed the pads.
I don't think you'll need to have them turned at this point.

The car does not use the caliper for the parking brake. Some pads do not like to get wet. My cool carbons are horible for this. Even driving the car after a wash to clean off the rotors does not help. This is what my front cool carbons do the fronts (washed when cold) after sitting for an hour after washing then driving the car.

It almost seems like that the pad material gets scraped off when it gets wet and then it bunches up on the pad and the meterial eats at the rotor. Hard breaking removes it, but it shouldn't happen. My Hawk or Performance Friction pads never had this problem.

[kevin @ eas]

You can get away without the anti-rattle clip and the piston clip but we advise against this in general- additionally the piston clip holds the pad against the piston face and the piston withdraws slightly after each brake application pulling the pad away from the rotor.

The photos shown for the CC pads look like any other pad that we have seen after washing the car and allowing to sit for a period of time.

It does appear that the pads are not making complete contact as the rotor appears to be shinny only at the top.

Suggest to check caliper pins for parallelism and note also that there are a number of mentions now on the forums that BMW is denying warranty for painted calipers that have been disassembled for painting

WE run CC pads without any issue and also many happy customer.

[David1]

Originally Posted by kevin @ eas

You can get away without the anti-rattle clip and the piston clip but we advise against this in general- additionally the piston clip holds the pad against the piston face and the piston withdraws slightly after each brake application pulling the pad away from the rotor.

The photos shown for the CC pads look like any other pad that we have seen after washing the car and allowing to sit for a period of time.

It does appear that the pads are not making complete contact as the rotor appears to be shinny only at the top.

Suggest to check caliper pins for parallelism and note also that there are a number of mentions now on the forums that BMW is denying warranty for painted calipers that have been disassembled for painting

WE run CC pads without any issue and also many happy customer.

Keep spewing the same BS. The car has 7900 miles on it. It does not take a period of time. Less than an hour for what you see. Pads make complete contact once the pile of shit on the rotors from the pad scrubs off. In fact, I can take a putty knife and scrape it off. BMW has no issue with painted brakes. There are just a few dumb ass dealers out there.

[DZeckhausen]

This should not be a problem at all. A series of hard braking events from 60mph down to a near-stop, repeated back-to-back about 7 or 8 times, should take care of the judder. Make sure you brake as soon as you get up to 60mph and don't just cruise in between each braking event. You want to get those rotors HOT and they cool off pretty quickly. So BRAKE, accelerate, and BRAKE again. (Lather, rinse, repeat!)

Since it's rear rotors, it's a little harder to get them heated up. So a second bedding session, after a brief cool-down period, may be the ticket.

If you're not an aggressive driver, braking late and hard, the abrasive StopTech pads may wear away their transfer layer over time, necessitating an occasional re-bed at the first hint of judder. If that's the case, you may be better served with Posi Quiet Ceramic or Hawk HPS. Both are fine for the occasional autocross. But if you're taking the car to the track, then forget those two pads. Then again, if you're tracking, you want slotted rotors instead of drilled.

Hope this helps!

Dave Z.

[jeguth1s]

I put the same stop techs on with CC pads. Horrible vibes. Just removed the CC's and installed stop techs and the vibes still exist....

[mccannable]

Originally Posted by DZeckhausen

This should not be a problem at all. A series of hard braking events from 60mph down to a near-stop, repeated back-to-back about 7 or 8 times, should take care of the judder. Make sure you brake as soon as you get up to 60mph and don't just cruise in between each braking event. You want to get those rotors HOT and they cool off pretty quickly. So BRAKE, accelerate, and BRAKE again. (Lather, rinse, repeat!)

Since it's rear rotors, it's a little harder to get them heated up. So a second bedding session, after a brief cool-down period, may be the ticket.

If you're not an aggressive driver, braking late and hard, the abrasive StopTech pads may wear away their transfer layer over time, necessitating an occasional re-bed at the first hint of judder. If that's the case, you may be better served with Posi Quiet Ceramic or Hawk HPS. Both are fine for the occasional autocross. But if you're taking the car to the track, then forget those two pads. Then again, if you're tracking, you want slotted rotors instead of drilled.

Hope this helps!

Dave Z.

It will be double auto crossed this weekend and its a fast track. That should burn them off. I got drilled cause they looked cool.

[mccannable]

12 back to back runs seemed to clear up all the vibes.