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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > Coolant flush



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      10-25-2012, 08:24 PM   #1
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Coolant flush

I'm looking to flush my coolant for the first time and I was wondering if the car absolutely needs to be level or if using service ramps will be ok?

I was looking at flushing with Prestone super radiator cleaner or the super flush. Is there any benefit from one over the other?

Also, my car has 124k miles on it (all highway) so any extra tips to help the longevity of my cooling system would be appreciated.
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      11-09-2012, 09:15 PM   #2
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Did you do this? I'm interested in doing it too... would be interested in knowing how you did it. Thanks!
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      12-01-2012, 03:46 AM   #3
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Replace the thermostat. Even if it might not have failed, you'll never know if it does or not because there's no CEL or error code produced from it. Check all hoses for dryness, cracking, rips etc. And keep an eye on the water pump if you haven't changed it yet
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      12-01-2012, 08:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi29 View Post
Replace the thermostat. Even if it might not have failed, you'll never know if it does or not because there's no CEL or error code produced from it. Check all hoses for dryness, cracking, rips etc. And keep an eye on the water pump if you haven't changed it yet
This is backwards. The T-stat will throw a code and will illuminate the SES light, so you will know when it goes bad. But "going bad" only means the heating element has failed in it, the t-stat will still operate properly. The only way to "keep an eye" on the waterpump is to scan the ECU for shadow codes that indicate a slow waterpump speed, which do not illuminate the SES. Once you find the code for a slow waterpump it means the pump is on the way out.
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      12-01-2012, 06:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
This is backwards. The T-stat will throw a code and will illuminate the SES light, so you will know when it goes bad. But "going bad" only means the heating element has failed in it, the t-stat will still operate properly. The only way to "keep an eye" on the waterpump is to scan the ECU for shadow codes that indicate a slow waterpump speed, which do not illuminate the SES. Once you find the code for a slow waterpump it means the pump is on the way out.
Thanks for the correction!
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Driving is like having sex.
It really is. You can read up all you want about how to please a woman, you can look at all the diagrams in the world, but just like the clitoris, you won't know what the hell an apex is before you actually find it.
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      12-01-2012, 06:52 PM   #6
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I wouldn't sweat the thermostat by its self. Most electric water pumps die eventually.... And as preventative maintenance I would replace the pump and thermostat at the same time you drain the coolant with that type of mileage.

Yes, expensive but its better than being stranded somewhere when you don't want to
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