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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Brakes and Fluid Help



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      10-16-2012, 09:36 PM   #1
Zajac1
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Brakes and Fluid Help

I have to change front, rear brakes and fluid.
What u guys recommend ??
2007 E92 37k
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      10-17-2012, 07:30 AM   #2
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Bump !
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      10-17-2012, 11:04 AM   #3
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just the pads? or pads and rotors?
As for fluid... a standard brake fluid vs "racing" brake fluid is the boiling point... as long as you don't intend on tracking your car every day, a standard DOT4 will be fine.
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      10-17-2012, 11:27 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N0OS3 View Post
just the pads? or pads and rotors?
As for fluid... a standard brake fluid vs "racing" brake fluid is the boiling point... as long as you don't intend on tracking your car every day, a standard DOT4 will be fine.
pads and rotors my friend
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      10-17-2012, 11:54 AM   #5
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for fluid you can use valvoline dot3-4 fluid commercially available. If you can ATE dot 4 which is very common for german cars is available at specialty stores. Get the blue fluid so you can tell that youve cleared out the oem brown colored fluid.

For pads i think textar/jurid do the oem pads.
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      10-17-2012, 01:53 PM   #6
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i recently put Callahan drilled/slotted rotors on my e90, came with ceramic pads and brake pad wear sensors. Search for them on ebay... great price, 1yr guarantee, they dont rust (like regular pads do), hard to warp, and callahan advertises they dont squeal either but i put antisqueal on them anyway. While you're at it, i suggest getting stainless steel brake lines too, stops the spongy feel of braking, reduces brake fade, and you will have more confidence in stopping efficiency.
The blue fluid thing isnt necessary... i hear from experts all the time that say completely flushing the brake system is a waste of time as the only moisture build-up is from either lose connections to the calipers or from the master cylinder not being topped off, neither of which occurs in the middle of the hard lines; bleeding the brakes after taking out the old fluid in the MC and replacing with new DOT4 will do just as much good as flushing the whole system... if it make u feel more comfortable to bleed them with colored fluid, go for it. ^__^
I've also been turned away from generic DOT3/4 combo fluids... supposedly the fluid will "mix" itself over time with the existing fluid in order to come to a common viscosity... this mixture can trap and move moisture with it in the process as well as affect the boiling point of the fluid (not typically the case)

sorry for the long reply... just passing info along
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      10-18-2012, 07:49 AM   #7
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2007 BMW 328xi  [3.64]
You might get more info / advice over in the Suspension | Brakes | Chassis section. I'm starting to look into rotors and pads for my front and right now leaning towards Centric cryo treated rotors and Hawk HPS pads. I don't track much with the car but do spirited driving from time to time so don't need anything more aggressive but wanted a slight upgrade from stock.
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      10-18-2012, 08:44 AM   #8
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Sometimes people hate it wen BavarianAuto is mentioned but you can buy a complete kit that has every thing you need in one box. Convenient in my opinion.
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      10-18-2012, 09:16 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conrad325i View Post
Sometimes people hate it wen BavarianAuto is mentioned but you can buy a complete kit that has every thing you need in one box. Convenient in my opinion.
Do you mean this ??
RBK E901
Replacement Brake Kit - Full-Car Kit - includes front and rear brakes
$ 517.95
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      10-18-2012, 09:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N0OS3 View Post
i recently put Callahan drilled/slotted rotors on my e90, came with ceramic pads and brake pad wear sensors. Search for them on ebay... great price, 1yr guarantee, they dont rust (like regular pads do), hard to warp, and callahan advertises they dont squeal either but i put antisqueal on them anyway. While you're at it, i suggest getting stainless steel brake lines too, stops the spongy feel of braking, reduces brake fade, and you will have more confidence in stopping efficiency.
The blue fluid thing isnt necessary... i hear from experts all the time that say completely flushing the brake system is a waste of time as the only moisture build-up is from either lose connections to the calipers or from the master cylinder not being topped off, neither of which occurs in the middle of the hard lines; bleeding the brakes after taking out the old fluid in the MC and replacing with new DOT4 will do just as much good as flushing the whole system... if it make u feel more comfortable to bleed them with colored fluid, go for it. ^__^
I've also been turned away from generic DOT3/4 combo fluids... supposedly the fluid will "mix" itself over time with the existing fluid in order to come to a common viscosity... this mixture can trap and move moisture with it in the process as well as affect the boiling point of the fluid (not typically the case)

sorry for the long reply... just passing info along
Thank you for your help : )
Ill check those Callahan brakes : )
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      10-18-2012, 09:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revision2 View Post
You might get more info / advice over in the Suspension | Brakes | Chassis section. I'm starting to look into rotors and pads for my front and right now leaning towards Centric cryo treated rotors and Hawk HPS pads. I don't track much with the car but do spirited driving from time to time so don't need anything more aggressive but wanted a slight upgrade from stock.
I did that already : )
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      10-18-2012, 09:40 AM   #12
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for what it's worth, the stealership told me that my rotors should be able to handle one change in pads, without replacing rotors and they did replace my rear pads at 72k, without rotors and no problem. Wondering, with only 37k miles, do you really need rotors?
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      10-18-2012, 11:03 AM   #13
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at around 80k I did stoptech rotors with the black hubs, ATE racing blue fluid, and akebono ceramic pads on my old e90. It was a nice setup perfect for all of my daily driving and best of all NO DUST. Oh and bought new front and rear sensors from the dealer.
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      10-18-2012, 11:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlifxs View Post
for what it's worth, the stealership told me that my rotors should be able to handle one change in pads, without replacing rotors and they did replace my rear pads at 72k, without rotors and no problem. Wondering, with only 37k miles, do you really need rotors?
i dnt think so i need rotors now but its cheaper to buy a whole new kit.
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