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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > ER Charge pipe long not fitting properly - Keeps popping off



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      06-17-2016, 01:39 AM   #1
mzafar
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ER Charge pipe long not fitting properly - Keeps popping off

I have a 2008 e92. Purchased the ER charge pipe long version.
Installed it as per instructions. The ER charge pipe didn't fit easily.
I had to really pull on the Intercooler pipe to make it fit.

A couple or runs with Map 1 JB4 and my clamp on the charge pipe on the intercooler side came off. Attached it again. Another couple of runs, it came off again.
The third time, I really tightened the nut on the clamp. But I feel like since I've had to pull on the intercooler pipe there is a lot stresses there. Did anyone else experience the LONG version not fitting on the 07 or 08 properly?

Any tips on how I can stop the clamp coming off during high boost?
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      06-17-2016, 01:45 AM   #2
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Take a picture of chargepipe installed. Specifically where your clamps are. Are the couplers clearing the bead on the aluminum piping?
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      06-17-2016, 02:09 AM   #3
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I'll take one tomorrow and upload it. The coupler I got was pretty short (About 4 inches). I got the coupler to get all the way to the bead on my 3rd time. It still hasn't come off yet.
Can I clamp the coupler really hard on the Aluminum charge pipe? I am afraid of over tightening it.

Also forgot to mention, for some reason I didn't get screws for mounting my charge pipe onto the car frame like the stock one did. Also, the screws didn't line up. They were about 2 inches apart. Is that normal?

Thanks a lot btw
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      06-17-2016, 02:28 AM   #4
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Are you running an aftermarket Fmic? Try adjusting the pipe coming up from your front mount. The 4" coupler is plenty to between the chargepipe and the Intercooler piping, but the two pipes should be close to each other. I think I have about an inch gap between my chargepipe and intercooler piping.

Also, It's possible that your chargepipe is not clocked correctly and that's why you have that gap between the tab on the chargepipe then hole for the screw.

All my clamps are tighten down very hard. Just be patient, and cautious. The clamps should be on the opposite side of the bead, and you should be able to see the shape of it surface as you tighten down your clamp.
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      06-17-2016, 04:17 AM   #5
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Weird, I needed a short ER CP to fit my ER FMIC..
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      06-17-2016, 04:56 AM   #6
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I have literally no gap between the FMIC and the charge pipe in the coupler. It was a pain as I had the same problem with it popping off, but when you push both together and tighten it to within an inch of it's life it won't pop off again.
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      06-17-2016, 09:29 AM   #7
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Pictures attached.
Hope you can see the gap. I'll try clocking the charge pipe again.
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      06-17-2016, 09:44 AM   #8
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I'd get rid of that t bolt clamp on the actual charge pipe and go with a standard worm clamp. T bolt clamps are smooth inside and any vibration and such will slide right off. A worm clamp etchs into the rubber and stays in place. I have them and at 24psi doesn't pop out
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      06-17-2016, 09:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90 View Post
I'd get rid of that t bolt clamp on the actual charge pipe and go with a standard worm clamp. T bolt clamps are smooth inside and any vibration and such will slide right off. A worm clamp etchs into the rubber and stays in place. I have them and at 24psi doesn't pop out
That's a good idea. Gonna give it a try today.
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      06-17-2016, 09:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzafar View Post
That's a good idea. Gonna give it a try today.
Also clean the area with some alcohol and spray some hair spray onto the coupler. When dry hairspray is very tacky, old trick used long ago still does the job.
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      06-17-2016, 11:17 AM   #11
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I have the same problem as OP. Ended up just getting a 6" coupler and cranking down on some t-bolt clamps on both sides of it. Works now. I am not happy with the ER CP, it doesn't fit on the mid-mounting bracket either. But it works, so whatever.
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      06-17-2016, 03:50 PM   #12
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Depends on the lower cp used. That's where these problems arise usually with cp fitments.
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      06-17-2016, 04:13 PM   #13
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I installed the ER charge pipe a few weeks ago and it blew off once or twice because I heeded the instructions about not making it too tight. Finally I said phooey and cranked it down. Now it doesn't come off. I wouldn't use a standard worm clamp. That coupler is soft silicon and you'll chew it all up. Just crank down the T clamp a bit more. I can tell by the amount of thread sticking past the nut that yours are not as tight as mine, especially on the end where the coupler ties to the lower charge pipe (referring to the part of the charge pipe you didn't replace and goes downward to tie into your intercooler coupler).
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      06-17-2016, 11:06 PM   #14
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I had this problem a month ago when I upgraded to ER charge pipe long version with diverter. Contrary to what people say, the ER charge pipe initially seems like a bad fit. The bracket doesn't line up well and you have to muscle that thing onto the throttle body.

There's a reason why both the long and short stock charge pipe has this flexible accordion section on it, which allows it to flex during the install and give it easeness to install.

It is technically possible to get the bracket to align to the bolt but everything has to be muscled and pushed inward and towards the alternator to do so.

Frustrated with the fitment, it takes an hour to muscle this thing on and align correctly. That is just terrible by design.

But here's a solution for you that i learned from someone on here! Take the throttle body off the intake manifold. YES! Do it, there's only 4 10mm bolts and you disconnect the sensor and vacuum line to it.

With the square throttle body off, now connect it to the ER charge pipe first on the table. Then bring the whole thing and insert it into the silicone coupler and then leaving the throttle body hanging. Align and insert it. Now is the time to align that bracket. You should be able to do it now.

Finally, mount the throttle body back into the intake manifold. It will look like it doesn't align well. That is true. But as you pull up, it's heck of a lot easier now because you get one bolt inserted and you're good to go. As you begin to tighten, the charge pipe will naturally be forced to apply pressure towards the intercooler piping.


It's not a perfect fit, it's still gonna put some pressure on the intercooler pipe, but it won't break it and this is the easiest way to install it. The time it takes to muscle the ER charge pipe on and align it, is not worth it. I found that it's best to take 10 minutes to remove the throttle body and 10 minutes to put it back. Trust me your arms will take you for it.
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      06-18-2016, 06:33 AM   #15
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