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DIY: TVandNav2Go
Published by xcalibr
07-01-2006
DIY: TVandNav2Go

There are 4 parts (so far) to this DIY.
Part 1: Wiring the module
Part 2: More details on wiring power (somewhat obseleted now with the new info provided in part 1)
Part 3: Hard-wiring audio
Part 4: Backup Camera

Part 1 (The other parts are different posts throughout this thread)
Time: about 2 hours

Tools needed:
Torx #10, #15, #20
Phillips head screw driver, flat head screw driver (BMW screwdriver)
Wire cutters/stripper
Multimeter (optional)

Materials needed:
14-18 Gauge wire to run power and ground
Tape (electrical)
Wire Butt connectors


1. Unscrew the two screws (Torx #10) above the iDrive screen.


2. Pull the screen forward from the top edge to remove.


3. Disconnect the two cables in the back.



4. (OPTIONAL) You can skip the next couple of steps, but it makes it a bit easier to maneuver things around if you take out the center console trim. Start by removing the shift knob (unclip the boot and pull up HARD on the knob).



5. (OPTIONAL) Pull up on the center trim starting from the bottom part of the shift knob hole (toward the iDrive knob). It should pop right out.


6. Now with the iDrive screen out, remove the dash trim starting next to the start button. You can use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry it out to start, but once you get a little gap, you can pull it straight off pretty easily.


7. Pull on the middle and the right side next to the passenger door (open the passenger door) to remove the rest of the trim.


8. Unplug three sets of wires behind the dash trim.


9. With the dash trim removed, the top of the climate control panel is exposed and can be pulled out.


10. Unplug the wires on the climate control panel.


11. The top of the plastic faceplate of the dvd/cd drives is now exposed. Gently pull back on it to remove the faceplate.


12. With the faceplate off, take out the four screws holding the silver radio unit in, then pull the entire unit (including drives) straight out.



13. (OPTIONAL) The next step makes running the wires easier, but you can skip it if you have small hands and can reach through the trim and tiny holes. Using the Torx #15, remove the 4 screws holding the plastic surround around the radio hole. Unbolt the two bolts (8mm) on the bottom. The whole surround can now be removed.




14. Remove the panel beneath the glove box by removing the two torx #20 screws.




15. Now it's finally time to run some wires. Run the LCD wire provided in the kit from the iDrive screen hole, down to below the glovebox.




16. Run the IR reciever the same way from the iDrive hole down to below the glove box.


17. (OPTIONAL) Remove the speedometer in a similar way as the iDrive screen was removed (two torx #10 screws).



18. Remove the stock LCD cable (silver L-shaped connector, purple on one end, blue on the other). This is now going to run from the silver headunit to below the glove box to the nav2go module. This is a little easier to reach and manipulate with the spedometer removed. There is a clip in there that is holding the cable in place, but if you jiggle it hard enough, it will come off. Once you have this cable removed, run it from the headunit slot over to under the glove box.


19. Now it's time to plug stuff in! Plug in the LCD cable provided with the kit into the LVDS out (white dot up), the stock silver L-shaped LCD connector into the LVDS in, and the IR reciever into the IR connector.


20. Now it's time to wire up the harness. Wire the black wire from the harness to your ground. A good ground is one of the 8mm bolts from step 13.


Connect the red ACC to a remote source, and the yellow, fused power wire to the hot +12V source. I used my remote line from my Line-output converter with built-in low voltage trigger, and wired the yellow wire directly to the fuse box using an add-a-circuit fuse-tap from autozone.



There are a few options for the remote... My method utilize a low voltage trigger that I already had for my sound system. Long used the middle pin from accessories power in the center console. This source is on when the engine is one --not in radio mode. Long also suggested that we use radio power. I could not find a source for this --I belive the radio may work like the factory amp does --constant +12V on, but +5V signals off, and +12V signals on. So I think maybe the best solution is the low voltage trigger --do a search on the forum... the low voltage trigger has been brought up many times before. The proper way to wire it is to wire the ACC to the trigger and the fused yellow wire to a constant +12V (i.e. the battery or the fuse box).

Edit: BMW06 has since discovered that the 7.5A mini-fuse in slot #5 in the fuse box acts as a great remote source that is on in radio mode. Use a fuse-tap for mini-fuse slots in this slot and wire it to the RED ACC line.

21. Now you can plug in the power harness and the AV input/output harness to the module.


22. Now you can start putting everything back together loosely so you can test your module. Plug in the provided LCD cable into the iDrive screen with the white dot to the rear of the monitor.

23. The last thing to do once it works, is to tape the IR reciever to the inside of your iDrive screen housing so that it's nicely hidden.


24. Finished! I'm using a PS2 for now... there really is no good place to put it because the slim PS2 has a flip-up dvd bay.


I'll add more to this DIY once I splice in the sound connection... for those who don't want to do it that way, you can just use one of those mini-jack to stereo RCA connectors to hook up the module to the AUX in in the center armrest.
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  #1  
By LWL on 07-01-2006, 05:56 AM
Thanks for the DIY. I look forward for your DIY on sound source.
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  #2  
By BenMW on 07-01-2006, 06:55 AM
WOW Your amazing.... This looks a litlle too complicated to me but im hoping i can print these directions out and bring them to one of those Car toys stores or something.

Im hoping this will be the same deal considering I will have an e92 with a reverse backup camera from bmw.

Thanks Xcalibr
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  #3  
By ZuerstBMW on 07-01-2006, 07:12 AM
Great DIY step by step instructions. Thats alot of damn work. Kudos.
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  #4  
By Sedan_Clan on 07-01-2006, 09:23 AM
Great DIY. Nice, and clear-cut.
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  #5  
By ctgazer on 07-01-2006, 09:53 AM
im about to go attempt this thing right now....lets see how that goes..i think the only problem is trying to find power for me cause i aint that great of an electrician
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  #6  
By AW330i on 07-01-2006, 10:24 AM
Nice! I can't wait to put mine in! I am leaning on having it installed though...
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  #7  
By KL2DC on 07-01-2006, 10:40 AM
A well-done DIY...

Definitely something for the DIY master list
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  #8  
By xcalibr on 07-01-2006, 12:20 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenMW
WOW Your amazing.... This looks a litlle too complicated to me but im hoping i can print these directions out and bring them to one of those Car toys stores or something.

Im hoping this will be the same deal considering I will have an e92 with a reverse backup camera from bmw.

Thanks Xcalibr

There is an RCA input that says "Rear-C' for rear camera I guess. And on the power harness there's a signal wire labeled for the rear camera trigger as well. So you can just hook up the +12V from your reverse light to that trigger and it should automatically switch over to your backup cam.
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  #9  
By xcalibr on 07-01-2006, 12:22 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctgazer
im about to go attempt this thing right now....lets see how that goes..i think the only problem is trying to find power for me cause i aint that great of an electrician
Good luck ctgazer! It really helps to have a multimeter handy... actually I should add that to the list of tools. PM me if you need any help.
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  #10  
By ctgazer on 07-01-2006, 01:50 PM
oh man..just spent 4 hours playin around...havent even gotten half way yet...its way tougher than it looks...i cant seem to get step 18 done...and also cant figure out how where to get power from for the tvandnav unit and the dvd unit...totally when it comes to electronics in beemy...any help would be greatly appreciated xcalibr
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  #11  
By saini023 on 07-01-2006, 07:55 PM
nice write up..hope to do this on monday...
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  #12  
By magamaga on 07-01-2006, 08:08 PM
I have been attracted to this product for some time now but haven't decided on getting it. I was just now thinking about the additional dvd player that has to be bought to be able to play the movies. Since music dvds can also be played on the *new* dvd unit, wouldn't it be better to move the BMW DVD player ( with the NAvigation CD in it) to a hidden location and place the newly acquired DVD in its place?

I came to thinking that because I am also attracted to the idea of having the ability to watch TV on the I-Drive screen. I am not really attracted to the idea of viewing DVD movies on the I-Drive ( my daughters are) but would probably enjoy the ability to listen and be able to watch TV ( as a passenger of course).

Wouldn't that work?
Last edited by magamaga; 07-02-2006 at 10:40 AM.
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  #13  
By xcalibr on 07-01-2006, 10:41 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctgazer
oh man..just spent 4 hours playin around...havent even gotten half way yet...its way tougher than it looks...i cant seem to get step 18 done...and also cant figure out how where to get power from for the tvandnav unit and the dvd unit...totally when it comes to electronics in beemy...any help would be greatly appreciated xcalibr
Okay, for step 18 you've gotta push on the bottom L-shaped silver thing (blue head) that was connected to the head unit (silver box + drives) toward the speedometer hole. If you can grab this cable through the speedo hole, then you can jostle it back and forth until the clip unclips itself. Then you can just pull the rest of it through. Pushing the nav side would work also, except it's wrapped on that side, so it's a bit tougher to move it through the small space.

For power, Long used the middle pin in the center console... this is an okay power source --but it only turns on when the engine's on.

And for the ground, the one I pointed out works great.
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  #14  
By diesel007 on 07-01-2006, 11:17 PM
Very nice DIY.
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  #15  
By edawg on 07-01-2006, 11:52 PM
man i am definately going to have this thing installed by someone.!...
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  #16  
By xcalibr on 07-02-2006, 04:53 AM
DIY: TVandNav2Go part 2 (power)

So I kinda skipped past how exactly to run power to the module in the first DIY... I did this because there are a few options, and I chose one that is not readily available to most people. But due to request, I am adding this section of the DIY to show how to connect power to the nav2go module.

METHOD 1... this method only works when ignition is on.

This is what I'm calling the "Long Tran" method, because this is how he wired it in his original pix... I don't know if he managed to find another power source yet.

1. Take out the center console trim, and you find this connector that powers your 12V cigarette adapter/accessories power socket.



2. The center pin is the one carrying the +12V hot (THE JUICE!). So cut the center wire to splice into it...


3. Since I am not powering this way this red wire will now represent that center wire:


4. Strip both ends you just cut, and twist in the RED ACC wire from the power harness (represented here by the blue wire). The YELLOW power wire from the harness can be twisted in here as well... but the right way to do it is to use this as a remote source, and wire the yellow wire directly to the fuse box.


5. Connect the ends together with a butt connector and crimp.


Here's a pic of Long's wire splice:



Regarding step 4: Since there may be some distance you need to run the wire, You might want to connect just the "blue" wire and then wire it as in DIY part 1, step 20.


METHOD 2... this method works really well if you already have a low voltage trigger (such as the PAC trunk-LOC for an aftermarket amp install)

This is the PAC Trunk-LOC with built in low voltage trigger I have installed in my trunk



Here is a basic diagram of how the low voltage trigger works. The red +12V line is connected to your car battery, the black ground wire is connected to a suitable ground in the trunk (NOT the negative terminal of the battery), and the green low voltage signal wire is connected to a source that generates a low voltage signal (i.e. speaker wires). The speaker wires produce a low 5V signal when the radio is turned on. This is enough to tell the low voltage trigger to turn on power to the blue REMOTE line. This remote line carries a +12V signal which should be connected to the RED ACC wire on the power harness. The yellow, fused wire on the power harness should be connected to the fuse box.


You can search on ebay or on google for "low voltage trigger" to find the part.


I hope this helps out some of you that don't know too much about electronics and wiring... IMPORTANT: IF YOU ARE STILL CONFUSED. STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING. Phone a friend that knows how to do this kind of stuff, or take it to a competent car-audio shop. I personally don't trust shops with my car... and I've done enough car-audio installs to know what I'm doing. But if you don't even know the basics, you shouldn't be messing around with your car... my instructions may not be absolutely perfect, so I don't want anyone coming to me saying, "you told me to do this... and it messed up my car." PLEASE, if there's anything you don't understand, ask a buddy who might know about this stuff to come over, have a beer, and help you out real quick.
Last edited by xcalibr; 08-08-2007 at 12:21 AM. Reason: picture links
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  #17  
By BMW06 on 07-02-2006, 09:56 AM
power source

For all who are looking to neat and clean (without any splicing) way of getting power for TVANDNAV2Go unit / DVD player / or any other electronics in E90.
Please refer to following post ;

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17506

where it gives step by step info on how to use fuse tap for hard-wiring V1.
Remeber we are installing everything pretty close to this fusebox.

See attached one picture from that post....
Attached Images
 
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  #18  
By xcalibr on 07-02-2006, 01:58 PM
YES! Thanks, that's the add-a-circuit fuse tap available only at Autozone. Connect the YELLOW, fused power wire on the power adapter to that. Except I believe every source in the fuse box is wired directly to the battery? So it's a constant +12V... your module would always be on if you also wired the RED ACC line to this. The proper way to do it (as I mentioned before) is to splice in the YELLOW, fused power wire to the fuse box, and then find another source for the remote line to connect to the RED ACC line.
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  #19  
By Scarabeo on 07-02-2006, 02:36 PM
Guys - I have a much simpler solution - the Sony PSP....works great for me (only takes 30 minutes to convert a DVD to mpeg4) and it can be placed anywhere on the windshield and even the top of the sun roof so people in the back can watch.....
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  #20  
By xcalibr on 07-02-2006, 04:27 PM
DIY: TVandNav2Go part 3 (AUDIO)

Quote:
Originally Posted by LWL
Thanks for the DIY. I look forward for your DIY on sound source.
Just for Elaine... here is the audio hook-up DIY for the TVandNav2Go module:

Tools needed:
BMW Screwdriver
Wire cutter/stripper
Soldering iron/solder (optional, but recommended)

Materials needed:
Electrical tape
Stereo Mini-jack extension cable (I got one at Radio Shack)


Stereo Mini-plug to Stereo RCA cable (also at Radio Shack)



1. Open the armrest storage compartment and pry between the plastic panels to pop off the center console/rear vent panel.


2. Close the storage compartment and gently pull on the panel from the top down. The bottom is hooked in by the side flaps of the center console --push outwards at the bottom and pull steadily to completely remove the panel.


3. With the panel off, the AUX audio connector is now exposed. This is where we'll be making our connection.


4. Take the Stereo mini-jack extension cable and cut off the male plug end.


5. Strip off the outer sleeve and the inner shielding to expose the 3 wires --Left (red), Right (black), and common ground (silver uninsulated wire).


6. Splice into the 3 wires of the AUX audio connector. From the top down, RED to the BLACK (left), BLACK to the YELLOW (right), and SILVER to the other BLACK (common ground).


If you buy a different mini-jack extension cable, it will be different, and you'll have to figure out which wire is which.

7. Now run the white mini-jack extension cable toward the glove box along the passenger side of the center console (just stuff it under the plastic trim), and connect the female end to the mini-plug of the stereo mini to RCA cable.


8. Finally, connect the stereo RCA's to the audio out of the TVandNav2Go module.


Now the aux audio input for the module is totally invisible while retaining your stock aux input.. The only problem with two devices plugged into the same aux source is that if both devices are on, it will cause reduced sound quality even if one device is not playing any audio at all. The RIGHT way to do this is to put a switch in between the two sources... BUT if you just remember to turn off your ipod (or unplug it) when you're using the module, or turn off your module when you're using your ipod, then it should be fine... not bad at all for a cheap hack.
Last edited by xcalibr; 08-08-2007 at 12:21 AM.
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  #21  
By ksfrogman on 07-02-2006, 04:29 PM
Thanks for doing this. Was going to do the same (DIY), but you've spared me the trouble
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