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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > 335i won't start... not battery



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      03-30-2012, 09:28 AM   #1
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335i won't start... not battery

I drove my 07 335 last night out to eat. Go to leave and it won't start. No click. All accessories work.

At first I thought it was my key fob (with comfort access). It had been telling me the battery was low. I changed the battery out but still not working. Went and go my spare key w/o comfort access, same thing, not working.

I jumped the battery just in case but again everything works. I imagine its not the starter because I can't even get into accessory/ignition mode to put it in neutral.

1. I put key in. Car tells me key is in ignition. Radio comes on. odo/obc doesn't come on though
2. Push brake and start button, nothing happens and all accessories turn back off as if I wasn't even pushing the brake.

In the past 24hrs I've washed the car, including wiped down the engine bay; but it's ran fine the past day no trouble at all. I also hooked my Active meth kit back up (not injecting though), I had it disconnected for a bit because it was leaking. Only thing I reconnected was the pump turn on back by the battery and physically plug in the water line to the quick disconnect. Some water did spill out under the battery, but I soaked it up and vacuum it right away.

So it sounds electrical to me.... But I just don't know what unless something shorted? But doesn't make sense to me why it ran great for a day, all night, then poof just no crank, click, anything.

I am running JB4 and currently have the ECU disconnected to see if it will go to sleep/reset.

I feel like its still something with the key maybe too because it will tell me the key is either dead or faulty every 5-6 tries.
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      03-30-2012, 09:39 AM   #2
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I had water in my battery tray as well, (rear nut holding tail light was loose, rain would drip in) after swapping out my battery, it still had some charging issues. So i took removed the battery and cleaned up the posts that head towards the front of the car. They were pretty corroded, depending on how long you had water/meth in there that may have corroded the posts too. Worth a look, other then being heavy, it's not that hard to get to.

The reactions you are having are about the same as i had, so its sounds the car just doesn't have enough to start the car.
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      03-30-2012, 10:17 AM   #3
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how does the battery come out? There is a distribution block on top strapped...
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      03-30-2012, 03:25 PM   #4
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Take all that off, pull the cables out of the way, the side towards the rear of the car has a bolt (philips), it has some gray foam on it, it keeps it pinned towards the front of the car. once that is out, the battery moves around, it's heavy and a little awkward, but it will pull out, the cables on the battery, run to the post, you can unbolt them and look for any corrosion.
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      03-30-2012, 10:22 PM   #5
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Not the battery. No idea.... had it towed.
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      03-30-2012, 11:26 PM   #6
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Bad starter perhaps...
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      03-31-2012, 10:37 AM   #7
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Did you remove the JB4?
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      03-31-2012, 10:46 AM   #8
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This is one of 2 things

1) you blew a fuse

2) the more likely situation is your battery is dead




I dont know how you tried jumping your car, and people have told me that you cant jump a BMW ( which is absurd IMHO ), However you need to jump the car from the engine bay.

Look on the left top side of the engine bay and you will see a metal plate sticking up with a red + cap on it. Remove that cap and clamp the + to that metal plate.

Find the nearest largest strut bolt and mount your - to that. Start the jumper car and rev it for about 30 seconds.


Start your bimmer and buy a new battery for $150.

PS the battery is only supposed to last like 3 years until you need to replace it, so if its never been replaced then you got
a few extra years for free. 2-3 months before i returned my 3 it kept dying on me. The car would not even stay alive when i would pump gas
and wait....I would need it to be started so it does not die.

Moral of the story is that it barely lasted 3 years for me.
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      11-02-2012, 01:55 AM   #9
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Ive just had this problem , and unfortunately my car died on the highway..
Earlier on in the day i was at a autoshop, where they pointed out theres water in my battery compartment, they drained it, didnt take the battery out or anything..

I then went somewhere else, where i stopped to and eat the car was fine until i came out and tried to start. wouldnt start. So i had someone come boost me, it worked.

Now... Driving home down the highway, i get charging malfunction, low battery, and check battery terminals. and all every single type of light starts to pop up, and the car slowly dies.. and then i had no choice but to pullover on the highway, someone else tried to come boost me. but would not work this time around...

So I towed it home. Does anyone know what the problem would be? Dead battery? Alternator? or HPFP??
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      11-05-2012, 03:10 PM   #10
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'07 335i w/ the same problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by slopokdave View Post
I drove my 07 335 last night out to eat. Go to leave and it won't start. No click. All accessories work.

At first I thought it was my key fob (with comfort access). It had been telling me the battery was low. I changed the battery out but still not working. Went and go my spare key w/o comfort access, same thing, not working.

I jumped the battery just in case but again everything works. I imagine its not the starter because I can't even get into accessory/ignition mode to put it in neutral.

1. I put key in. Car tells me key is in ignition. Radio comes on. odo/obc doesn't come on though
2. Push brake and start button, nothing happens and all accessories turn back off as if I wasn't even pushing the brake.

In the past 24hrs I've washed the car, including wiped down the engine bay; but it's ran fine the past day no trouble at all. I also hooked my Active meth kit back up (not injecting though), I had it disconnected for a bit because it was leaking. Only thing I reconnected was the pump turn on back by the battery and physically plug in the water line to the quick disconnect. Some water did spill out under the battery, but I soaked it up and vacuum it right away.

So it sounds electrical to me.... But I just don't know what unless something shorted? But doesn't make sense to me why it ran great for a day, all night, then poof just no crank, click, anything.

I am running JB4 and currently have the ECU disconnected to see if it will go to sleep/reset.

I feel like its still something with the key maybe too because it will tell me the key is either dead or faulty every 5-6 tries.
I have an ’07 335i I and just started having the same problem. I was leaving the store, put the key in and pushed the start button … nothing. Lights and all accessories work; no clicking from the starter solenoid, and no DTCs. I was thinking the battery I just replaced was a bad one, but when I had it tested; it’s putting out 12.2 volts and 1000 CCAs. I did have the new battery registered at the dealership.

Next, I pulled out my Bentley service manual (121-14). Too bad the damn starter is under the intake manifold. With the “break point” being the starter, the book says to:

1. Check for battery voltage at the B+ terminal (top post) on the starter solenoid; no power, check the battery, cables, terminals, and ground connections. If you have 12V, go to step 2.

2. Check for battery voltage at terminal X6510 on the starter solenoid (just below the B+ terminal) with the ignition in the “start” position. If voltage is not present, check the wiring between the car access system (CAS) module and the starter terminal.

3. If you have power, it’s the starter; if not, it’s electrical probably related to the CAS module or the clutch/brake control module.

NOTE: If you have a manual, the clutch switch module sends a signal to the CAS and then power will flow to the starter. If you have an automatic, the signal comes from the brake pedal.

I’m thinking if it was the CAS or the clutch switch module I’d get a fault, or that little reminder light on the dash that reminds me to depress the clutch pedal. I suspect the starter has a dead spot, or there may be pitting on the contactor that is interrupting current flow. My problem is I can’t get the problem to duplicate when I have the car at home, and that makes it very hard to troubleshoot.
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      11-06-2012, 09:02 AM   #11
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Could easily be the clutch switch module which is clipped onto the clutch master cylinder. The part has been superceded at least two times, latest part is 61 31 9 231 129, $41 retail. My 2007 makes me sometimes mash the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to start, so I'm beginning to think the pedal position sensor is bad. It's not just a simple switch, it's a non-contact position sensor, which means it can definitely go bad.

Otherwise you'll have to do the Bentley test OR get a BT tool to check the CAS codes.
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      11-06-2012, 10:06 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slopokdave View Post
Not the battery. No idea.... had it towed.
Did you figure out what was wrong? Have similar problems..
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      11-07-2012, 08:08 PM   #13
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Problem solved!

I changed out the starter. Word of caution ... don't buy a starter at the BMW dealer. They quoted me $449.00 just for the part. I went with an Autozone Duralast starter w/ lifetime warranty. Sure it isn't Bosch, but I'm not too impressed w/ Bosch if the damn starter only lasted 66K miles! You will also need an intake manifold gasket set (a $34.00 dealer item), since you have to pull the intake to get to the starter. Another piece of advice, get the Bentley service manual; it came in very handy especially for torque values.
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      11-08-2012, 05:51 PM   #14
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I had a similiar issue recently, idrive was stating ignition wa son but it kept flashing up on the dash service with a pic of the car with its boot up when I went to crank the car. I had a near new battery and wasn't getting a click from the starter at all, so had to have the car towed to the dealer.

Turns out that the voltage was dropping, due to a bad earth. The engine earth strap is grounded to the engine mount and the bolt fastening the strap was corroded. They replaced the bolt and bam she fired up like a charm...
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      11-09-2012, 12:12 PM   #15
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You dont normall see starters just die, they take longer to crank over time until they eventually stop working. This sounds like a corroded/loose power or ground wire to the starter. It could still be the battery as your accessories dont require much power to operate.
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      11-23-2012, 10:09 AM   #16
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It was the battery! I had pep boys test it, they said it was good. So that was when I had it towed to my shop. They changed it out and boom.
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