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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY E90 N54 Valve Cover Gasket



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robc1976's Avatar DIY E90 N54 Valve Cover Gasket
by Robc
robc1976
11-28-2012
Seems this DIY has never been done but it needs to be. It's really not that hard and the dealer charges $1000+ to do this. Ridiculous.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your car following this tutorial. Worked perfectly for mine so it...
  #110  
By najin23 on 05-07-2014, 10:15 AM
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great! Troubleshoot, and that's how you become an expert!
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  #111  
By Jklad on 05-16-2014, 07:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by najin23
great! Troubleshoot, and that's how you become an expert!
Hi, How much should you tighten the strut bolts, and the fuel lines?
Assuming good and tight, but any further info?

I didn't see this answered in the thread.
Thanks.
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  #112  
By Jhe on 05-20-2014, 10:54 PM
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They protect the coils from heat.
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  #113  
By MalcolmV8 on 05-20-2014, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
Hi, How much should you tighten the strut bolts, and the fuel lines?
Assuming good and tight, but any further info?

I didn't see this answered in the thread.
Thanks.
Fuel lines are 17 ft-lb but you need a special tool that goes around the nut on the fuel line for the torque wrench to fit into.

The strut braces use torque to yield bolts (one time use and must be replaced).

Strut brace to chassis
stage 1 - 74 ft-lb
stage 2 - + additional 100*

Strut brace to strut tower
stage 1 - 30 ft-lb
stage 2 - + additional 60*
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  #114  
By Jklad on 05-20-2014, 11:48 PM
Thanks for the info - I just did this repair and all went well.

I find it hard to believe everyone is replacing the strut star bolts each time they remove them, though.
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  #115  
By allan on 05-22-2014, 06:05 PM
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oil in heat shield / tray AFTER repair

After replacing the cracked valve cover (compl set) I have the following phenomenon - see below pictures -
After every drive I can see oil accumulating on the heat shield/tray on top of the turbos. I checked the Valve Cover / Gasket. All is dry.
Now I realized that the oil "bubbles" out of the fold of the heat shield/tray. The shield is bolted on only. Where the heck is the oil coming from ??? Any idea?

Picture 1:
.
Picture 2:
.

Heat shield - pos. 3 - part # 13717649693
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...75&hg=11&fg=45
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  #116  
By adostrom on 05-23-2014, 12:58 PM
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Updated suggestions for a 2009 N54

I did this job on my 2009 335i xDrive sedan last week. I found the tutorial very helpful, but I also found some items missing from both the tutorial and the Bentley manual. I'll add the caveat that I don't know if these will apply to any other years or models than my '09 N54.

First, people have been discussing replacing/not replacing the valve cover bolts. I talked to the dealer and they do not suggest routine replacement. The bolts on my valve cover are NOT aluminum, they're steel (put a magnet on one, and you'll see), even though they sort of look like aluminum bolts.

After following the Bentley manual I could not get the cover to come out. I found that loosening the fuel rail was required, and to get to the bolts holding the fuel rail I had to remove the air cleaner box (what BMW calls the "intake muffler"). This was beneficial in another way -- if provided additional slack in the cables which clip to the side of the box, which eliminated the need to disconnect any electrical connections. Thus, I also did not disconnect the battery.

My recommendation would be to remove the cabin air filter housing, the engine cover, and then the air filter box. At that point I stuffed the intakes with shop towels and gave the engine a good cleaning with some degreaser, which made checking for leaks after completion of the job a lot easier. Similarly, cleaning all the cavities on the top of head, once the valve cover was removed, will help me know if I have a leak in the future.

I had a lot of trouble with the new gasket falling out of the cover when re-installing, even after cleaning the groove carefully. I was going to use Permatex "High Tack" to hold it in place, but all I had was a spray can, so instead I carefully brushed a thin layer of Permatex "Aviation Form-a-Gasket" into the groove, which held the gasket in place nicely.

After torquing the valve cover to the spec I reassembled the engine enough (coils and injector/coil wiring) to get it running and then I ran it until it got up to operating temp. I let it cool (while reassembling as much as I could) and then re-torqued all the bolts. By running it with the cover and air cleaner out I had a much better chance of spotting any leaks, too.

[To be honest, I felt that the spec'd torque felt really loose (maybe the spec is for aluminum bolts) so I did some research on the torque specs for M6 bolts, and ended up torquing everything to 95 in.lb., which "felt" about right. I can't recommend anyone do anything other than what's in the book, but I've been doing this a lot of years, and decided to go with my gut on this one.]

The Bentley manual says to replace the bolts holding the strut brace, but none of the dealers in the Boston area had them in stock, so unless yours are better, plan ahead. I re-installed the old bolts while waiting for new ones to arrive.

With six new coils I ended up spending under $400 for the whole job. Like many jobs, doing it the first time took me a lot longer than it should; for example I spent at least an hour trying to finagle the valve cover out, once I decided to take out the air cleaner and loosen the fuel rail it was done in five minutes...
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  #117  
By robc1976 on 05-23-2014, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adostrom View Post
I did this job on my 2009 335i xDrive sedan last week. I found the tutorial very helpful, but I also found some items missing from both the tutorial and the Bentley manual. I'll add the caveat that I don't know if these will apply to any other years or models than my '09 N54.

First, people have been discussing replacing/not replacing the valve cover bolts. I talked to the dealer and they do not suggest routine replacement. The bolts on my valve cover are NOT aluminum, they're steel (put a magnet on one, and you'll see), even though they sort of look like aluminum bolts.

After following the Bentley manual I could not get the cover to come out. I found that loosening the fuel rail was required, and to get to the bolts holding the fuel rail I had to remove the air cleaner box (what BMW calls the "intake muffler"). This was beneficial in another way -- if provided additional slack in the cables which clip to the side of the box, which eliminated the need to disconnect any electrical connections. Thus, I also did not disconnect the battery.

My recommendation would be to remove the cabin air filter housing, the engine cover, and then the air filter box. At that point I stuffed the intakes with shop towels and gave the engine a good cleaning with some degreaser, which made checking for leaks after completion of the job a lot easier. Similarly, cleaning all the cavities on the top of head, once the valve cover was removed, will help me know if I have a leak in the future.

I had a lot of trouble with the new gasket falling out of the cover when re-installing, even after cleaning the groove carefully. I was going to use Permatex "High Tack" to hold it in place, but all I had was a spray can, so instead I carefully brushed a thin layer of Permatex "Aviation Form-a-Gasket" into the groove, which held the gasket in place nicely.

After torquing the valve cover to the spec I reassembled the engine enough (coils and injector/coil wiring) to get it running and then I ran it until it got up to operating temp. I let it cool (while reassembling as much as I could) and then re-torqued all the bolts. By running it with the cover and air cleaner out I had a much better chance of spotting any leaks, too.

[To be honest, I felt that the spec'd torque felt really loose (maybe the spec is for aluminum bolts) so I did some research on the torque specs for M6 bolts, and ended up torquing everything to 95 in.lb., which "felt" about right. I can't recommend anyone do anything other than what's in the book, but I've been doing this a lot of years, and decided to go with my gut on this one.]

The Bentley manual says to replace the bolts holding the strut brace, but none of the dealers in the Boston area had them in stock, so unless yours are better, plan ahead. I re-installed the old bolts while waiting for new ones to arrive.

With six new coils I ended up spending under $400 for the whole job. Like many jobs, doing it the first time took me a lot longer than it should; for example I spent at least an hour trying to finagle the valve cover out, once I decided to take out the air cleaner and loosen the fuel rail it was done in five minutes...
I didn't put removing cabin because I figured that was common knowledge that it would have to be removed lol! I took fuel rail off. Don't think to much is missing though...hehe give over 20 of these the exact same way as guide. Be VERY careful using permatex as it could clog holes from head to valve cover.
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  #118  
By grayghost69 on 05-28-2014, 03:58 PM
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strut brace bolts

What are the part numbers for the strut brace bolts?
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  #119  
By MalcolmV8 on 05-28-2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grayghost69 View Post
What are the part numbers for the strut brace bolts?
M10 07146963730 $1.83 each

M12 07146954965 $3.50 each

Those prices are from getbmwparts.com
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