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      11-01-2012, 04:02 PM   #1
Simon.bmw
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Problems after the new brakes installed. Need Hellllllllp!!

Hi Every,

I just got my new brakes installed today..
I got my new brakes from R1concepts.

F/R Premium Drilled & Slotted Rotors
F/R Posi Quiet Semi-Metallic Pads,

they looked good on the car.

However, I did notice a longer and soft brake pedal travel, It takes longer time to have a complete stop than my factory one's. Is that normal? or it is just the breaking-in period?

Thank you
Simon
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      11-01-2012, 04:25 PM   #2
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Bed the brakes if you haven't already.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...-system-bed-in

The pads you had installed may require higher temperatures to work effectively so when they're cold the bite might not be as good as OEM pads.
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      11-01-2012, 04:56 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ421 View Post
Bed the brakes if you haven't already.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...-system-bed-in

The pads you had installed may require higher temperatures to work effectively so when they're cold the bite might not be as good as OEM pads.
Thank you for ur words, would it be improve if i keep driving for 500km?
I saw it on the instruction that would be better after 500km...
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      11-01-2012, 05:45 PM   #4
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Yep, bed them in first - important to get some proper heat cycles for the friction material to settle as well as the disks. Don't be alarmed at the pungent hot brake smell - kind of essential during this process, just make sure that you allow the brakes to cool off properly before stopping the car, so ideally when doing this keep the car moving at all times - choose a time and day when the roads are not too busy!

I suspect that these brakes might be performance brakes requiring higher operating temperatures for optimum performance - sort of like carbon/ceramic brakes...
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      11-01-2012, 05:55 PM   #5
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You didn't get any air in your system. They may need to be bled also.
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      11-01-2012, 06:03 PM   #6
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You didn't get any air in your system. They may need to be bled also.
That would explain a soft brake pedal.
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      11-01-2012, 06:10 PM   #7
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That would explain a soft brake pedal.
That's what I'm thinking. More likely something along those lines. Especially talking about the long pedal travel also.
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      11-01-2012, 07:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick4345 View Post
You didn't get any air in your system. They may need to be bled also.
Yup, you need to bleed your brakes. This typically happens when you install new pads.
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      11-01-2012, 10:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Yup, you need to bleed your brakes. This typically happens when you install new pads.
hey. I dot quite sure what do u mean by bleed the brakes?

I will try bed my brake tomorrow.

Thank you.
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      11-01-2012, 10:20 PM   #10
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Thank you for all of you.

I will try to bed my brake tomorrow.
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      11-01-2012, 11:00 PM   #11
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Exclamation

bleeding your brakes boils down to having air in the system. brakes work on a hydraulic system. that means fluid forced by pressure when you press the pedal closes the caliper on your brakes. if you have air in that system, it won't function properly, and may even fail on you. bleeding the brakes will remove the air from the system and replace it with fluid. if you don't do this, you're flirting with disaster. if you don't think so, try stopping from about fifty miles per hour. just don't tap you're brakes. you hit one of those air pockets and that is what happens.
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      11-01-2012, 11:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TC Kline Racing View Post
Yup, you need to bleed your brakes. This typically happens when you install new pads.
Why? How would air get into a sealed, locked hydraulic system?

It makes absolutely no difference on which end you push on a hydraulic system. If you get air by pushing in the brake piston, then you should get air by pushing in the brake pedal. If air is getting introduced in your brake system by replacing the pads, I suggest inspecting your brake lines and components.
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      11-02-2012, 04:52 AM   #13
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I also am not so sure about air getting in the system simply from changing pads - only real thing to watch when changing pads is that the brake fluid does not spill over the reservoir and onto the paintwork! But other than that, you are simply pushing the calliper pistons back forcing some brake fluid back into the reservoir (no way that air can get into the system). When you get in your car again you need to pump the brake pedal since the brakes are "relaxed" with the pistons pushed back more than normal, otherwise you have a very soft or next to nothing brake pedal the first time that you try and brake.

Getting back to the air in the system problem, when you changed your disks and pads, did you also change the brake lines to steal or braided?
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      11-02-2012, 07:00 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I
I also am not so sure about air getting in the system simply from changing pads - only real thing to watch when changing pads is that the brake fluid does not spill over the reservoir and onto the paintwork! But other than that, you are simply pushing the calliper pistons back forcing some brake fluid back into the reservoir (no way that air can get into the system). When you get in your car again you need to pump the brake pedal since the brakes are "relaxed" with the pistons pushed back more than normal, otherwise you have a very soft or next to nothing brake pedal the first time that you try and brake.

Getting back to the air in the system problem, when you changed your disks and pads, did you also change the brake lines to steal or braided?
Well nope. Only the rotors pads and sensors are changed.
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      11-02-2012, 07:18 AM   #15
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Strange, maybe have the brakes bled just to play safe...
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      11-02-2012, 12:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vasillalov View Post
Why? How would air get into a sealed, locked hydraulic system?

It makes absolutely no difference on which end you push on a hydraulic system. If you get air by pushing in the brake piston, then you should get air by pushing in the brake pedal. If air is getting introduced in your brake system by replacing the pads, I suggest inspecting your brake lines and components.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I View Post
I also am not so sure about air getting in the system simply from changing pads - only real thing to watch when changing pads is that the brake fluid does not spill over the reservoir and onto the paintwork! But other than that, you are simply pushing the calliper pistons back forcing some brake fluid back into the reservoir (no way that air can get into the system). When you get in your car again you need to pump the brake pedal since the brakes are "relaxed" with the pistons pushed back more than normal, otherwise you have a very soft or next to nothing brake pedal the first time that you try and brake.

Getting back to the air in the system problem, when you changed your disks and pads, did you also change the brake lines to steal or braided?
You guys are absolutely right, that it 'shouldn't' happen, but sometimes it does. From his description it sounds like air in the brake line, just giving him some other options for a possible fix. Won't hurt anything if he does bleed the brakes, it will get some new fluid in there and help towards a safer car on the road.
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      11-02-2012, 01:06 PM   #17
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Won't hurt anything if he does bleed the brakes, it will get some new fluid in there and help towards a safer car on the road.
^^ this +1

--> get a quart of super blue and bleed. once you see the 'blue' then you know ur fluid is changed and no air will be in the system.
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      11-02-2012, 01:37 PM   #18
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Thank you for all of u... So I talked to the shop, and they said there is not way that the air would get into the system. There is not need for a brake bleed, and he helps me to bed my brakes, things god lot more better.. I will try and put more Kms and see what happened..

Thank you again..
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      11-03-2012, 03:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon.bmw View Post
Thank you for all of u... So I talked to the shop, and they said there is not way that the air would get into the system. There is not need for a brake bleed, and he helps me to bed my brakes, things god lot more better.. I will try and put more Kms and see what happened..

Thank you again..

Brake bleedin' is a simple affair, an easy DIY if you like.

Motiv brake bleeder's very useful -- here is a procedure.
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      11-06-2012, 05:15 PM   #20
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Hi folks,

I also have this problem after replacing my rotors, pads, and sensors on a 328xi. I installed Zimmerman OEM rotors, and Axxis semi-metallics and never touched the hydraulics, just used a C-clamp to press in the piston and now I have soft brakes with far pedal travel. I checked the reservoir and it is at exactly the full line and there is no signs of spillage or overflow. How could the brakes become soft if no air could have entered the system? Naturally, I am going to try bleeding them but it doesn't make any sense.
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      11-07-2012, 12:14 PM   #21
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Hi folks,

I also have this problem after replacing my rotors, pads, and sensors on a 328xi. I installed Zimmerman OEM rotors, and Axxis semi-metallics and never touched the hydraulics, just used a C-clamp to press in the piston and now I have soft brakes with far pedal travel. I checked the reservoir and it is at exactly the full line and there is no signs of spillage or overflow. How could the brakes become soft if no air could have entered the system? Naturally, I am going to try bleeding them but it doesn't make any sense.
Hi, in my case, u dot need to bleed them since u didnt open it.. what i did is bed them. hardbrake a bit.. it is getting better after u put more kms on them. i assume that is the brake in-period.
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      11-07-2012, 03:15 PM   #22
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That doesn't really explain the mushy feeling though. I've driven over 100 miles since and it hasn't changed.
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