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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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HELP. Please. Stud stuck on engine head. during turbo install
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| 11-20-2012, 05:57 PM | #1 |
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Lieutenant Colonel
![]() Drives: e93 2008 Montego Metallic 335i Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: FortWorth, Texas
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Im having major issues with this stud the Star part broke off and im now using a Visegrip to try break it lose its not going in or out
ITS COMPLETLY SEIZED UP i feel like its about to break off i dont want that to happen. Anyone got ideas or anyone local that can help ![]() Page 2 for the heart warming news
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![]() FBO..turbos bolted on too ..METH. ***FREEE SYRIA***Last edited by sammy_0559; 11-26-2012 at 03:27 PM. |
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| 11-20-2012, 06:11 PM | #2 |
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Second Lieutenant
![]() Drives: E92 335i Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: DFW, TX
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Yikes, you might try something like this; autozone might loan them out.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P |
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| 11-20-2012, 06:12 PM | #3 |
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Colonel
![]() Drives: a slow 2009 e90 335i Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Chicago
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I'm no expert, but have you tried heating it ? Maybe someone else will chime in, but you may have to drill and re-tap.
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| 11-20-2012, 06:55 PM | #7 | |
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Formerly (-(ellblazer420
Drives: 2007 E90 335i M/T Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: SF East Bay, CA
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Quote:
If you still have good thread left. Try putting two nuts on the stud. You then tighten the two nuts against each other. Then use the locked nuts to loosen the stud with a normal box end wrench. Hope that helps. |
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| 11-20-2012, 07:02 PM | #8 |
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Captain
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Heat it then hit it with some canned air to shock cool it. If that doesn't work try some wax from a cheap candle while it's hot. Heat is likely the answer, anyway... time to get out the torch
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| 11-20-2012, 07:21 PM | #10 |
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Captain
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find the big ape that tightened it
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- Proven Power Tampa Built 6466 ST - Vargas Head Flanges - Vargas HPFP Upgrade -6466 Build:http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ight=6466+335i
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| 11-20-2012, 08:36 PM | #11 |
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Lieutenant Colonel
![]() Drives: e93 2008 Montego Metallic 335i Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: FortWorth, Texas
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Its aluminum :/ i dunno i will give it a shot tomorrow morning
WIll try tomorrow also thanks everyone for the input
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![]() FBO..turbos bolted on too ..METH. ***FREEE SYRIA*** |
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| 11-21-2012, 12:54 AM | #14 |
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BimmerPost Supporting Vendor
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Common on turbo studs and bolts we see because of the heat. Not only on these cars but many others. If you can get in there take a small hammer and give some nice raps right on the head solid, this shocking really helps in breaking things lose. Make sure you get a nice solid hit directly on the end so you dont snap it off. Then and this is key, you are going to have to work it back and forth. if you get a tiny turn out, take whatever you are using to turn it back the other way, use this method and you can get it turn out a little at a time where if you just tried to back it out, its most likely going to break if it is really seized. I am a firm believer any bolt or stud can be removed without breaking if you give it the proper time and and tools. I do also agree with the propane torch on the head itself not the stud, on turbine housings we use oxy / acy torches as they can take the heat but the aluminum cant. Get it nice and hot, whack it nice and straight and while the its still hot trying turning it out and see if it moves, repeat until you get it out. Good luck
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| 11-21-2012, 06:41 AM | #15 |
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Captain
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A small pipe wrench can work better than vice grips for getting a grip on a stud that is being difficult. (A lot of my wrenching experience is on cars far older than the ones we are discussing here, so dealing with corrosion and stuck fasteners is a way of life.)
Also, not to restart a flame war that's been going on for decades, but WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. Use a real penetrating oil like Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster. Or if ou have some acetone laying around mix it 50/50 with ATF and put it in a hand oiler and use that, it works surprisingly well. |
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| 11-21-2012, 08:37 AM | #16 | |
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Lieutenant Colonel
![]() Drives: e93 2008 Montego Metallic 335i Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: FortWorth, Texas
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Quote:
Thank you so much for your input i really appreciate it and absolutely cannot wait to see how awesome your products come out. if it does break do u think a retap with a M7 Time Sert might work?I was able to get two nuts on it last night but didn't attempt to turn it because i need to apply heat so ill do it this afternoon.
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![]() FBO..turbos bolted on too ..METH. ***FREEE SYRIA*** |
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| 11-21-2012, 11:33 AM | #18 |
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king of the hills
Drives: 335i coupe Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Denver, CO
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Just FYI, might be worth a shot...acetone mixed 50/50 with Power Steering Fluid (PSF, not ATF).
http://www.sterkel.com/papers/vintag...ating_Oils.pdf |
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| 11-21-2012, 12:23 PM | #19 |
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The Coding Guy
Drives: FBO 335i Vert meth/nitrous Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 17,877
iTrader: (5)
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Both those nuts need to be Aligned correctly or the rachet socket will not reach the bottom nut.
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| 11-21-2012, 12:34 PM | #20 | |
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Lieutenant Colonel
![]() Drives: e93 2008 Montego Metallic 335i Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: FortWorth, Texas
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Quote:
heated didnt move anywhere FML. Heating didnt work, also banged with a hammer hard and still wont budge. when i removed the oil lines on the front turbo it was already pre marked with sharpy. "F" im guessing someone else f**ked it up ![]() ANy other ideas
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![]() FBO..turbos bolted on too ..METH. ***FREEE SYRIA*** |
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| 11-21-2012, 03:13 PM | #21 |
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adrenergic stimulation
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heat it with map gas for a good amount of time, 15 mins. after letting it soak in pb blasster for 45 mins
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07 335i. Montego Blue/Saddle Brown. 6 MT.
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| 11-21-2012, 04:19 PM | #22 |
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First Lieutenant
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stud removal tool always saved me. I snapped one on my b7 audi doing the timing belt, back it right out in seconds.
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08' 335xi 6MT Space Metallic Grey Premium, Nav, Cold weather, Sport Procede//PWM Meth//VRSF XI Downpipe//Forge DV//DCI//KW V1//SCOOPS//ETS FMIC//ECS GEOMET ROTORS//HAWK//CDV//PERFORMANCE SPOILER//CSL// |
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