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      11-30-2011, 11:52 PM   #1
Julesandtrish
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MAF sensor

Has anyone tried cleaning the MAF sensor yet? (with cfc sensor cleaner) I did this on my e39 M5 every 20K and it seemed to help the responsiveness of the engine. Or Is this a mute point with the D?
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      12-01-2011, 10:37 AM   #2
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Have you checked to see if your sensor is dirty? After about 10k miles, mine still looks good as new.

I'd say there's probably no harm in cleaning it either way.
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      12-05-2011, 10:33 PM   #3
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Yeah. I've got 43k on the clock now. I think I'll clean it this weekend. I'll post afterwards if I notice a difference.
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      01-16-2012, 03:44 PM   #4
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What does a clean involve and what every day substances can you use to clean??

What do you look for when checking dirtyness of maf??
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      01-31-2012, 04:54 PM   #5
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Anyone done this?? Is it worthwhile?
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      02-01-2012, 12:26 AM   #6
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Have not got around to doing this yet. Been busy. I will try in the near future and post results.
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      02-01-2012, 10:48 PM   #7
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Not a mute point, unless you can't hear it. Maybe a moot point though....
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      02-02-2012, 09:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasimodem View Post
Not a mute point, unless you can't hear it. Maybe a moot point though....
Don't you mean a soot point? Ha ha......
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      02-03-2012, 08:42 AM   #9
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Moot point. Not enough on the road to know whether its a common malady @70k miles or more.
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      02-04-2012, 04:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julesandtrish View Post
Don't you mean a soot point? Ha ha......
I apologize if my response wasn't sootable.
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      04-20-2012, 12:22 PM   #11
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Someone post up a pic of the MAF and where it's at. Getting an Air Mass Sensor SES lately, and I need to see if it's just dirty, or if I need to take the car in (and, if anyone knows, is the MAF covered under the emissions warranty?).
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      04-21-2012, 09:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
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(and, if anyone knows, is the MAF covered under the emissions warranty?).
I believe it should be. if it throws an SES light, that light is emissions related.
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      06-19-2013, 05:13 PM   #13
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So, this week I started getting a P0101 MAF code. Only at higher engine loads. Using the Torque App I could quantify a ~10-15 hp loss compared to "normal" and lower peak boost readings (it uses the MAF readings to calculate boost). So... something strange was afoot.

Removed the MAF and noticed a small piece of cottonwood pollen clinging to the very middle section of the mesh screen on the air box side that protects the hot film element from debris. I replaced the air filter earlier this spring and perhaps that contaminant found its way in there during the process? Not sure. I removed that from the screen, and since it was already detached, decided to "clean" the sensor with CRC fluid. Sprayed it and the electrical connector, let dry, re-assembled.

Cleared code and road tested. No more codes at full fueling and the lost power was back.

Since I did two things at once I'm not sure which "fixed" the issue. Question for those with MAF experience: Could the pollen blockage directly in front of the hot film element cause enough turbulence/blockage to the air stream that the MAF reading at higher air utilization was out of whack? Or is it more likely that the CRC cleaning was the more likely cause for the improvement?
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      06-19-2013, 05:29 PM   #14
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@TDIwyse , the other reason for the mesh screen is to more evenly distribute the airflow over the film. A decent sized bit of anything sitting there-on could certainly cause enough turbulence to yeild unstable readings. This coupled with a slightly dirty sensor was your likely culprit. Like you said, though...no way to conclusively determine how much of which was the cause.
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      06-19-2013, 05:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIwyse View Post
So, this week I started getting a P0101 MAF code. Only at higher engine loads. Using the Torque App I could quantify a ~10-15 hp loss compared to "normal" and lower peak boost readings (it uses the MAF readings to calculate boost). So... something strange was afoot.

Removed the MAF and noticed a small piece of cottonwood pollen clinging to the very middle section of the mesh screen on the air box side that protects the hot film element from debris. I replaced the air filter earlier this spring and perhaps that contaminant found its way in there during the process? Not sure. I removed that from the screen, and since it was already detached, decided to "clean" the sensor with CRC fluid. Sprayed it and the electrical connector, let dry, re-assembled.

Cleared code and road tested. No more codes at full fueling and the lost power was back.

Since I did two things at once I'm not sure which "fixed" the issue. Question for those with MAF experience: Could the pollen blockage directly in front of the hot film element cause enough turbulence/blockage to the air stream that the MAF reading at higher air utilization was out of whack? Or is it more likely that the CRC cleaning was the more likely cause for the improvement?
Anybody have any pics showing where said MAF is?
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      06-19-2013, 05:39 PM   #16
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It's just to the right of where the air filter is, into the center of the pipe that funnels the air from the intake to the turbos/engine.
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      06-19-2013, 06:15 PM   #17
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@335dFan
http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/s...hString=filter (part#1)

Name:  335d_MAF2.png
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Last edited by FormerRotor; 06-19-2013 at 07:22 PM.
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      06-19-2013, 06:20 PM   #18
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Thanks for the responses guys. If nothing else, it's something for the forum members to look at if they get a similar code ...
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      06-19-2013, 11:06 PM   #19
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Does anyone know what is needed to remove the MAF. Special tools or what?
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      06-20-2013, 07:30 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Anyone done this?? Is it worthwhile?
Uh..no.

It's called wrench boredom.
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      06-20-2013, 08:03 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atam12 View Post
Does anyone know what is needed to remove the MAF. Special tools or what?
There's 2 Torx bolts (T-30 if my memory is correct) that holds the MAF housing to the air box (and there's a large, thick rubber o-ring at the interface as well) and then a standard metric bolt worm/clamp on the other end of the housing/air duct interface.
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      06-20-2013, 08:43 AM   #22
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It is easy to remove, another thing if your running K&N be carefull oil doesnot run thru the piping and gets your MAF otherwise it will render it w/o warranty this happened to me with my 02 MCS I had a K&N look alike and iol messed up my MAF
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