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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Looking at picking up a D - anything else to look for?



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      12-07-2015, 06:51 PM   #1
afakhori
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Looking at picking up a D - anything else to look for?

So I'm looking at buying an '09 with 75k, fully loaded (I think, spec sheet linked below). One Owner with lots of records asking $17k.
Egr nightmare and paid out of pocket to have it fixed, oil changes every 7500mi, new glow plugs and brake fluid. Test drive revealed little except for an "almost in need of replacement" set of shocks. What else should I look at that might be a bit more specific to the D? Also, Is his valuation about right? I've been looking at the "I just got one" threads and people are picking them up for $13-$15k

Specs/options: https://www.dropbox.com/s/db9m8ul6ul...immer.pdf?dl=0

Thoughts? Thanks mucho
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      12-07-2015, 07:09 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afakhori View Post
So I'm looking at buying an '09 with 75k, fully loaded (I think, spec sheet linked below). One Owner with lots of records asking $17k.
Egr nightmare and paid out of pocket to have it fixed, oil changes every 7500mi, new glow plugs and brake fluid. Test drive revealed little except for an "almost in need of replacement" set of shocks. What else should I look at that might be a bit more specific to the D? Also, Is his valuation about right? I've been looking at the "I just got one" threads and people are picking them up for $13-$15k

Specs/options: https://www.dropbox.com/s/db9m8ul6ul...immer.pdf?dl=0

Thoughts? Thanks mucho
If you've done your homework then you know all the issues this car has. CBU is not really a big deal anymore, but anything with the SCR system can be. As far as "almost in need of replacement set of shocks", I felt this way when the car was brand new. They were way to soft right from the factory to try and compensate for the RFTs.
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      12-07-2015, 07:44 PM   #3
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Bent wheels and beat-up RFT tires.
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      12-07-2015, 09:55 PM   #4
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CEL?
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      12-08-2015, 04:48 AM   #5
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Thanks for the responses! I checked the rims and there is just a little bit of curb rub on two of them, but no noticeable bends. he said he replaced the staggered set up with 245/40/18s all seasons all around. Is that gonna cause problems down the road? Should I swap back to staggered?

I just talked to him and he siad he took it to the dealer because the SES just popped up and they said it might be the HPFP. outside of that and the cost to swap out the shocks I was gonna offer around $15.5k. Insulting or about right on the money? I'm gonna wait until next week when the dealer does the diagnostic. I'll dig around to see if I can find any other trouble spots, but if you guys have any more off the top of your head feel free to let me know!
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      12-08-2015, 09:11 AM   #6
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13K sounds about right. Don't worry about insulting him.
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      12-08-2015, 09:24 AM   #7
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Man these cars have such crazy ranges in price. People picking them up from $13k to $23k. It really depends on the condition, the options, service history, etc.
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      12-08-2015, 09:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afakhori View Post
Thanks for the responses! I checked the rims and there is just a little bit of curb rub on two of them, but no noticeable bends.
Remember rims bend on the INSIDE, the outside is the strongest part of the wheel. Regardless, a minor bend is easily repaired. My dealer has a mobile wheel guy come who can straighten rims without removing the tire.
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      12-08-2015, 10:42 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by kbsilver View Post
Remember rims bend on the INSIDE, the outside is the strongest part of the wheel. Regardless, a minor bend is easily repaired. My dealer has a mobile wheel guy come who can straighten rims without removing the tire.
Didnt even think about checking the lip on the inside! I'll check it out when I see the car again this weekend. Gonna try to put it up on the lift to check underneath
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      12-08-2015, 11:33 PM   #10
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I do not think you can very well check for a bent wheel unless it is really messed up. You either have to take them off and do a machine check. Or have a really well tuned butt dyno. However, there are a lot of thinks that can contribute to vibration while in motion.
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      12-09-2015, 10:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
I do not think you can very well check for a bent wheel unless it is really messed up. You either have to take them off and do a machine check. Or have a really well tuned butt dyno. However, there are a lot of thinks that can contribute to vibration while in motion.
If the car is on a lift you can see a bend pretty easily just by spinning the wheel. A little more difficult for the rear but can be done. Rears can also be done using engine power on the lift.
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      12-19-2015, 07:12 AM   #12
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Haven't had a chance to get it on a lift yet, but the owner just had it serviced - the SES light was on. Turns out something happened to the Exhaust radiator? 600 later and it's up and running.
He mentioned that since he just put a bunch of money into it, he didnt want to go lower than $15.4k.
One thing that I noticed when I talked to him the other day is there is a quarter sized chip on the (fiberglass?) sideskirt about a foot back from the driver's side wheel well. You can kind of see it on the bottom of the first picture.




And a nickel sized ding on the top of the front passenger side wheel well, about 6 inches from the reflector. You can kind of see it in this pic:


Here are a few more:


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      12-19-2015, 01:30 PM   #13
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Look at the red boost hose ( connects turbo output to intercooler input). If it is oil soaked, there is some boost leak. The seal will need to be changed. My car needs this done.

Did the car have the proper EGR valve recall work done?

Did you get good records of service history?
Some of us have noticed our coolant temps are running a little lower than they should be (88C). If you start running too cool, DPF regens will be less frequent and the DPF could start to clog up. I've written on the forums here how to get coolant temp reading from the central cluster of instrument panel. You will need numbers from VIN so as to add up last few to unlock the menus. My car runs low at about 82C. I also have new thermostat waiting to change this as well (this week). I don't have the worry of DPF clogging up though. Read up and you will quickly know what I mean.

Look under trunk and see if there is any white crusty substance anywhere. This would be evidence of urea leak. Ask the guy how often he had to add diesel exhaust fluid. Ask the guy about fuel filter change frequency. My last one was January 2014, so that's getting done this week too.

I hit rear wheel on curb real hard and used alloy wheel repair service in conjunction with discount tire. The only way I could see evidence of bend was wheel being run on balancing machine and seeing radial runout at the rim. Wasn't an inboard/outboard movement. It was radial movement as in evidence of slight egg shape. Wheel problems are not specific to the diesel though. My points above are specific to diesel though. Best of luck on your our purchase.
EDIT: I read top post again and see he has good records and EGR work done. Scratch those from my list. Trans fluid should be changed along with pan and filter if it hasn't been done. Do it yourself cost will be around $250 to $300 depending where you get the kit. Dealer cost substantially higher.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 12-19-2015 at 01:37 PM.
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      12-19-2015, 01:44 PM   #14
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More on the transmission. The filter is built into the pan (which is plastic). You throw away both and get new pan. The pan costs around $100 to $140 depending on source. Fluid is very pricey but make sure and use the real ZF fluid which costs at least $20 per liter. You will need ~ 6 L. The mechatronic sleeve might be leaking so this should be inspected before pan removal. Really good thread on the trans stuff so don't worry. Trying to give you ammo for price negotiation if this work hasn't been done. At 75,000 miles, it is definitely time if hadn't been done yet. BMW will tell you 100,000 miles but I wouldn't wait that long. That thread will show you all you need to know. out!
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      12-19-2015, 02:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
More on the transmission. The filter is built into the pan (which is plastic). You throw away both and get new pan. The pan costs around $100 to $140 depending on source. Fluid is very pricey but make sure and use the real ZF fluid which costs at least $20 per liter. You will need ~ 6 L. The mechatronic sleeve might be leaking so this should be inspected before pan removal. Really good thread on the trans stuff so don't worry. Trying to give you ammo for price negotiation if this work hasn't been done. At 75,000 miles, it is definitely time if hadn't been done yet. BMW will tell you 100,000 miles but I wouldn't wait that long. That thread will show you all you need to know. out!
That's AWESOME!
Thanks!

I know he just had the fuel filter changed, so I'll push him on:
  • shocks
  • transmission flush
  • possible boost leak

I'm hoping to have everything wrapped up by right after christmas. With those things coupled with the dent and chip in the fiberglass I'm going to try to push down to $14K. I think that would be a fair price for the parts and with me doing the work.
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      12-19-2015, 07:56 PM   #16
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Minor redirection please. I'm not a big fan of trans flushing. Drain and fill is my game. Not a fan of a flush possibly knocking a crumb loose from one place and clogging an orifice or valve elsewhere.

Last edited by BB_cuda; 12-19-2015 at 08:02 PM.
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      12-20-2015, 10:23 AM   #17
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I would suggest looking for the door.
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      12-20-2015, 04:22 PM   #18
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The boost leak costs maybe $20 in seals to replace, I wouldn't be a dick about it. I also would get the transmission done as well. I did mine a bit late at 82k miles and still made a pretty good difference in shifting. Most people never get their transmission oil changed as well; so you might be able to knock down the price a little. I wouldn't count on the guy being too amused.
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      12-20-2015, 05:17 PM   #19
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Totally understand. Not trying to be a dick. Just want to make sure I'm not going to be running into a ton of problems that are going to cost me as soon as I plunk down the $$ for the car. I understand that it's a used, almost 7 year old car, but I want to have my research done and as much understanding of common issues as I can. With the current valuation coupled with a few things that are known to be coming up (less than 3k until shocks, brakes and tires) I made my offer.
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      12-20-2015, 06:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afakhori View Post
Totally understand. Not trying to be a dick. Just want to make sure I'm not going to be running into a ton of problems that are going to cost me as soon as I plunk down the $$ for the car. I understand that it's a used, almost 7 year old car, but I want to have my research done and as much understanding of common issues as I can. With the current valuation coupled with a few things that are known to be coming up (less than 3k until shocks, brakes and tires) I made my offer.
oh it will, it's a 335d
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      12-20-2015, 10:34 PM   #21
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If you're looking for Toyota reliability this car is not for you. Better off finding a nice low mileage 328i if bmw and reliability are your top criteria.

The 335d is somewhat of a craft car. It's amazing in its performance and efficiency. But those of us that bellied up to this bar know that happy hour doesn't last all night. This car has its minor issues. But to the enthusiastic owner turning wrenches every so often only adds to our enjoyment and understanding of the car.
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      12-20-2015, 11:40 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Mark M View Post
If you're looking for Toyota reliability this car is not for you. Better off finding a nice low mileage 328i if bmw and reliability are your top criteria.

The 335d is somewhat of a craft car. It's amazing in its performance and efficiency. But those of us that bellied up to this bar know that happy hour doesn't last all night. This car has its minor issues. But to the enthusiastic owner turning wrenches every so often only adds to our enjoyment and understanding of the car.
I bought my e30 to wrench on. This car has been at the dealer 11 times in 15 months (CPO). I love driving it too much to sell it, but i've been very close. 75k miles and still no CBU related check engine light, but the motor doesn't seem to be running right at the moment. Somehow in the back of my mind i'm hoping it'll level off and I can start modding the car when CPO is up
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