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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > MMP-E Silicone Inlets Installed- 335xi



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      06-09-2016, 02:21 AM   #1
Sikh335xi
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MMP-E Silicone Inlets Installed- 335xi

The following is my experience with MMP's stock location silicone inlets.

Back in February I finally went and ordered up a set of inlets for my 2008 335xi, I went with MMP simply because I wanted stock location inlets at the lowest price I could find. I chose to go with stock location because I did not want to deal with re-locating the coolant reservoir or dealing with anything coolant related as I've had poor experiences with my past E46's and cooling systems.

I emailed Mauricio with questions about the inlet size as I am still considering a turbo upgrade in the future and wanted to be able to use these on new turbos. I was very concerned with the fact that MMP was a newer vendor in my book, but after he answered my questions, I ordered up the silicone inlets from the MMP-E website and they showed up in about 5 business days. I planned to do the install myself, then I decided to add a VRSF 7" Intercooler and a VRSF Charge Pipe along with a BMS 4 Bar Map sensor. After all of my parts arrived they sat in a corner til' the last week of May lol. Then I had a headlight ballast go out... And I knew the bumper had to come off so I decided to knock it all out. I knew the install was going to be brutal... And it was. It took me about 20 hours of actual labor to get this all done, I worked on it a few hours a day for about a week and got it done without too much blood shed or skin loss.

Helpful Tips:

-For the xi guys, Google the "xi Downpipe install - subframe method -" by Mattsfeir on another forum, this will get to where you need to be for the rear inlet as well as how to get the downpipes off. I had used these steps to do my downpipes a few years ago and it was really helpful.

-As for the front inlet, you'll have to get the fan out. Which involves taking out the Intercooler.

-Once the above steps are done and you have the sub frame hanging, you'll have plenty of room to get the job done. The hardest part will be squeezing the rear inlet between the firewall and engine and securing the front inlet to the turbo because it's done blind for the most part.

-No matter how hard you try, on the xi you won't be able to do this without dropping (or somewhat lowering) the sub frame. You'll waste valuable time dicking around.

Anyways, those are just some helpful tips.

As for the product.

-They come bagged nice and neat, along with hose clamps and some plastic fittings/adapters depending on what you're using, like recirc or not as well as a fitting for the PCV (Works with BMS OCC). The inlets themselves are pretty sturdy and are reinforced enough so they don't collapse. As far as the fitment, it's just like all of the others you hear about, the front inlet is close to the pulleys and the rear is a snug fit. I had an issue initially with the alternator pulley rubbing against the front inlet, I reached out to Mauricio and he suggested how to get around this. Yes, I had to use zip ties.

Before making my choice to go with MMP's inlets I remember reading somewhere "lol, $500 silicone tubes and they need to be zip tied" though this was about another reputable brand, it stuck with me when i purchased these.

Lets be honest, unless you're doing a hard pipe upgrade, silicone inlets are going to move around a bit with heat and vehicle vibrations, so get over having to use zip ties. If you have half a brain, you'll find a way to make it look clean and not let it bother you.

Once Terry helped me sort out a problem with the 4 Bar MAP sensor, I was able to take the car for a spin, immediately I noticed a faster spool up, and the power holding higher into the RPM range, I messed around with MAP 6 and was able to hit higher than 21psi at peak on my stockers with almost 115k miles on them. (Been beating on them since 40K) I'll have to do some more logging to get a clean full run in, as well as get back to the dyno, but like everyone has said there is a noticeable difference.

The following are just some pictures of the bay after the install, and the zip ties.

I'll be happy to answer any install questions, as I'm sure the install quotes for an xi are outrageous.

Edit: I would also like to point out the price has dropped on these by about $30 since I purchased them earlier this year. Interesting.










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      06-09-2016, 03:25 AM   #2
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Note about zip ties: My RB inlets didn't need zip ties.
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      06-09-2016, 07:12 AM   #3
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Nice install man. I did mine a couple months ago. What a pain it was. Rear is what took forever. Btw you dont have to take intercooler off to get fan off.

Im thinking on getting the 4 bar tmap. Ill wait to see if your stocks blow up first! Lol
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      06-09-2016, 10:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawhiz View Post
Note about zip ties: My RB inlets didn't need zip ties.
I guess I could change that to "use zip ties if need be"
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      06-09-2016, 12:13 PM   #5
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I'd still use zip ties with any brand, it's not worth a potential shift in the pipe for whateve reason to have it get eaten by the belts.

As more and more companies copy the original makers of these pipes, the price keeps dropping. Welcome to competition (Good for the buyer).
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      06-09-2016, 12:45 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sikh335xi
The following is my experience with MMP's stock location silicone inlets.

Back in February I finally went and ordered up a set of inlets for my 2008 335xi, I went with MMP simply because I wanted stock location inlets at the lowest price I could find. I chose to go with stock location because I did not want to deal with re-locating the coolant reservoir or dealing with anything coolant related as I've had poor experiences with my past E46's and cooling systems.

I emailed Mauricio with questions about the inlet size as I am still considering a turbo upgrade in the future and wanted to be able to use these on new turbos. I was very concerned with the fact that MMP was a newer vendor in my book, but after he answered my questions, I ordered up the silicone inlets from the MMP-E website and they showed up in about 5 business days. I planned to do the install myself, then I decided to add a VRSF 7" Intercooler and a VRSF Charge Pipe along with a BMS 4 Bar Map sensor. After all of my parts arrived they sat in a corner til' the last week of May lol. Then I had a headlight ballast go out... And I knew the bumper had to come off so I decided to knock it all out. I knew the install was going to be brutal... And it was. It took me about 20 hours of actual labor to get this all done, I worked on it a few hours a day for about a week and got it done without too much blood shed or skin loss.

Helpful Tips:

-For the xi guys, Google the "xi Downpipe install - subframe method -" by Mattsfeir on another forum, this will get to where you need to be for the rear inlet as well as how to get the downpipes off. I had used these steps to do my downpipes a few years ago and it was really helpful.

-As for the front inlet, you'll have to get the fan out. Which involves taking out the Intercooler.

-Once the above steps are done and you have the sub frame hanging, you'll have plenty of room to get the job done. The hardest part will be squeezing the rear inlet between the firewall and engine and securing the front inlet to the turbo because it's done blind for the most part.

-No matter how hard you try, on the xi you won't be able to do this without dropping (or somewhat lowering) the sub frame. You'll waste valuable time dicking around.

Anyways, those are just some helpful tips.

As for the product.

-They come bagged nice and neat, along with hose clamps and some plastic fittings/adapters depending on what you're using, like recirc or not as well as a fitting for the PCV (Works with BMS OCC). The inlets themselves are pretty sturdy and are reinforced enough so they don't collapse. As far as the fitment, it's just like all of the others you hear about, the front inlet is close to the pulleys and the rear is a snug fit. I had an issue initially with the alternator pulley rubbing against the front inlet, I reached out to Mauricio and he suggested how to get around this. Yes, I had to use zip ties.

Before making my choice to go with MMP's inlets I remember reading somewhere "lol, $500 silicone tubes and they need to be zip tied" though this was about another reputable brand, it stuck with me when i purchased these.

Lets be honest, unless you're doing a hard pipe upgrade, silicone inlets are going to move around a bit with heat and vehicle vibrations, so get over having to use zip ties. If you have half a brain, you'll find a way to make it look clean and not let it bother you.

Once Terry helped me sort out a problem with the 4 Bar MAP sensor, I was able to take the car for a spin, immediately I noticed a faster spool up, and the power holding higher into the RPM range, I messed around with MAP 6 and was able to hit higher than 21psi at peak on my stockers with almost 115k miles on them. (Been beating on them since 40K) I'll have to do some more logging to get a clean full run in, as well as get back to the dyno, but like everyone has said there is a noticeable difference.

The following are just some pictures of the bay after the install, and the zip ties.

I'll be happy to answer any install questions, as I'm sure the install quotes for an xi are outrageous.

Edit: I would also like to point out the price has dropped on these by about $30 since I purchased them earlier this year. Interesting.










Did you get the 1.75" or 2" one?
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      06-09-2016, 01:56 PM   #7
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Good review. The install guidelines have always stated that a zip tie may be needed for some to ensure the inlet stays of the pulley. Also at a couple hundred bucks these inlets area bargain and now available in 1.75" and 2" connection size to the turbo for this with stage 2+ turbos and the 2" will work with my stage 3 hybrid turbos.
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      06-09-2016, 04:28 PM   #8
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Mine are the 1.75", seeing Pure has a stock snout option and RB Next gems are stock snout size as well, I went ahead and ordered the 1.75" ones knowing they would work for future turbo options as well as my stockers.

Let's see how long they last lol. I'm loving the upgrades, before this and before downpipes I made 411whp and 538wtq (E85 and Meth) hopefully I can get to a dyno soon hoping for high 4's
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      06-09-2016, 05:16 PM   #9
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Thanks for the post. Looking to install a similar set of yet to be released inlets on my car for beta testing for a manufacturer. My tech will find this info helpful.
I'll also be part of the zip tie brigade as well.
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      06-09-2016, 05:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sikh335xi
Mine are the 1.75", seeing Pure has a stock snout option and RB Next gems are stock snout size as well, I went ahead and ordered the 1.75" ones knowing they would work for future turbo options as well as my stockers.

Let's see how long they last lol. I'm loving the upgrades, before this and before downpipes I made 411whp and 538wtq (E85 and Meth) hopefully I can get to a dyno soon hoping for high 4's
Whp your xi right ?
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      06-09-2016, 10:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian2485 View Post
Whp your xi right ?
Yes, corrected numbers to the wheels at MAC Autosport.
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      06-10-2016, 02:07 AM   #12
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Did you have to unbolt the trans from the engine to get the rear inlet in place?
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      06-10-2016, 02:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antoniogaj View Post
Did you have to unbolt the trans from the engine to get the rear inlet in place?
No, it's possible to get the rear inlet in without unbolting the trans, it helps to lower the engine though, to widen the angle between the firewall and engine. I suggest using a lubricant, because the silicone has a "grippy" feel to it. I also used a 2x4, a rag to prevent damage and a hammer to push the inlet down.
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      08-12-2016, 03:36 AM   #14
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Excellent write up. Thanks much!
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