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View Poll Results: Which clutch would you choose?
ACT Street 8 22.86%
SPEC Stage 2 27 77.14%
Voters: 35. You may not vote on this poll

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      12-13-2012, 02:19 PM   #23
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I too have recently installed the ACT clutch, and have had no major issues. It holds my 410whp/457wtq just fine. I will agree with the low engagement point. The stiffness of the pedal is a positive in my book, but I have missed shifts due to the large pedal throw. Overall, for a college student, the ACT was more affordable and thus my choice. I am yet (knock on wood) to regret this decision.
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      12-13-2012, 03:06 PM   #24
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In my experience, it's not the low engagement of the ACT clutch that caused mis-shifting. But rather the slower acting release mechanism. Shift it slowly and no problem. Shift it fast and it won't go in gear immediately.
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      12-13-2012, 03:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe View Post
I had ACT with stock DMFW, I've driven a Spec 2+ with stock DMFW, I just purchased a Spec 2+ wtih LWFW.

My opinions:
ACT
1. held all the power/torque I threw at it including single turbo.
2. pedal pressure was more than stock and more than Spec 2+ with DMFW (I liked the heavier feel tho).
3. Clutch engaged literally maybe an inch off the floor. I ended up absolutely hating this. It caused so many misshifts as I would engage the clutch before I got into gear when shifting quickly. It made 2-step nearly impossible to use. It made NLS act funny. It started dragging after a while making launching impossible.

Spec 2+ w/DMFW (from the drive I took)
1. Pedal pressure is slightly more than stock, less than ACT (negative in my book).
2. Engaged easily and drove fine.
3. Holds my friends power who is also single turbo.

I have a 2+ with lwfw coming in the mail. My recommendation is to get the 2+. I haven't heard anything bad about it and I am very, very anit-Spec after the BS they pulled on my brother with his SC'd Mustang a few years back.
What kinda RWTQ do you make? My ACT is slipping now, I have about 15k on it, and would've cracked over 500rwtq on my last trip to the dyno if the clutch hadn't slipped during the TQ peak (made 490rwtq and 456whp, stock turbos). I made a few passes at the strip with Hoosiers and cut 1.68-1.65 60's, and it started slipping in 3rd, then in 2nd. And I think there's credibility in what Shiv is saying about a slow release mechanism, because I too will get locked out of 2nd if I shift too fast, and the place where the clutch first started slipping again on the street was when I would quickly shift during a pull (no powershifting here), the revs would jump in the next gear; if I shifted at a more normal speed, or let off and reapplied throttle, it wouldn't slip. Of course, that was in the past...now it will slip just at a moderate roll on in 3rd. I am going SPEC next, despite bad experiences with them in the past, Steel SWFW, and I'm still deciding between 2+, 3 and 3+. Whichever is the least on/off, noisy, and will last longest in a wide variety of driving, as I really don't care if the pedal pressure is 50% stiffer than stock (okay, maybe I'd care a little bit).
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      12-13-2012, 03:40 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe View Post
I had ACT with stock DMFW, I've driven a Spec 2+ with stock DMFW, I just purchased a Spec 2+ wtih LWFW.

My opinions:
ACT
1. held all the power/torque I threw at it including single turbo.
2. pedal pressure was more than stock and more than Spec 2+ with DMFW (I liked the heavier feel tho).
3. Clutch engaged literally maybe an inch off the floor. I ended up absolutely hating this. It caused so many misshifts as I would engage the clutch before I got into gear when shifting quickly. It made 2-step nearly impossible to use. It made NLS act funny. It started dragging after a while making launching impossible.

Spec 2+ w/DMFW (from the drive I took)
1. Pedal pressure is slightly more than stock, less than ACT (negative in my book).
2. Engaged easily and drove fine.
3. Holds my friends power who is also single turbo.

I have a 2+ with lwfw coming in the mail. My recommendation is to get the 2+. I haven't heard anything bad about it and I am very, very anit-Spec after the BS they pulled on my brother with his SC'd Mustang a few years back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe View Post
My last recommendation is to purchase whatever you decide on from Jeff@Topgearsolutions. Top notch service!
Thanks! We appreciate your support! Look forward to more reviews and information about the spec 2+ for more people.
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      12-13-2012, 05:21 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DefactoM6 View Post
What kinda RWTQ do you make? My ACT is slipping now, I have about 15k on it, and would've cracked over 500rwtq on my last trip to the dyno if the clutch hadn't slipped during the TQ peak (made 490rwtq and 456whp, stock turbos). I made a few passes at the strip with Hoosiers and cut 1.68-1.65 60's, and it started slipping in 3rd, then in 2nd. And I think there's credibility in what Shiv is saying about a slow release mechanism, because I too will get locked out of 2nd if I shift too fast, and the place where the clutch first started slipping again on the street was when I would quickly shift during a pull (no powershifting here), the revs would jump in the next gear; if I shifted at a more normal speed, or let off and reapplied throttle, it wouldn't slip. Of course, that was in the past...now it will slip just at a moderate roll on in 3rd. I am going SPEC next, despite bad experiences with them in the past, Steel SWFW, and I'm still deciding between 2+, 3 and 3+. Whichever is the least on/off, noisy, and will last longest in a wide variety of driving, as I really don't care if the pedal pressure is 50% stiffer than stock (okay, maybe I'd care a little bit).
Similar tq. Was FBO+meth prior to singel and put down 475ft-lbs on pump+meth. I ran 50/50 e85/93 too, so I'm sure I was hitting 500 ft-lbs then.

Shiv might be right. Whatever the reason is, shifting into 2nd was always a guessing game. I've blown more shifts at the strip with the ACT clutch than I ever did with the stock clutch in much less passes.
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      12-13-2012, 11:21 PM   #28
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You get used to the ACT engagement point pretty easily. I used to miss shifts at first, but not now. The only really annoying thing about this is that the hill assist thinks you're still holding the clutch down when really you've engaged it, causing it to hold the brakes and you being unable to essily start. This causes me to have to pull the e-brake up slightly whenever I leave from any slope. Very annoying, but again, you get used to it.
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      12-13-2012, 11:39 PM   #29
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i know this thread so far has been just about the ACT and Spec clutches, and I dont know much about the clutches available for our car yet since i havent looked into them much.. but what about the HPF feramic clutches. from what ive been reading on here, they hold decent power/torque and have a feel which is very close to stock.. i know they would be much more pricy but maybe that is an option?
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      12-13-2012, 11:52 PM   #30
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they are twice the price.... not really comparable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abhishriv View Post
i know this thread so far has been just about the ACT and Spec clutches, and I dont know much about the clutches available for our car yet since i havent looked into them much.. but what about the HPF feramic clutches. from what ive been reading on here, they hold decent power/torque and have a feel which is very close to stock.. i know they would be much more pricy but maybe that is an option?
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      12-13-2012, 11:59 PM   #31
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they are twice the price.... not really comparable.
ah ok.. didnt know they were that much more haha
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      12-14-2012, 11:26 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe View Post
Similar tq. Was FBO+meth prior to singel and put down 475ft-lbs on pump+meth. I ran 50/50 e85/93 too, so I'm sure I was hitting 500 ft-lbs then.

Shiv might be right. Whatever the reason is, shifting into 2nd was always a guessing game. I've blown more shifts at the strip with the ACT clutch than I ever did with the stock clutch in much less passes.
Yeah, it just doesn't like going into 2nd. Possibly the SAC setup? Either way, looking forward to a non-SAC PP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp View Post
they are twice the price.... not really comparable.
And they weld themselves at the strip.
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      12-14-2012, 01:43 PM   #33
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Seems like SPEC is the way to go.
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      12-14-2012, 02:45 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abhishriv View Post
i know this thread so far has been just about the ACT and Spec clutches, and I dont know much about the clutches available for our car yet since i havent looked into them much.. but what about the HPF feramic clutches. from what ive been reading on here, they hold decent power/torque and have a feel which is very close to stock.. i know they would be much more pricy but maybe that is an option?
Only other comparable clutch that is popular is the clutch masters fx100 and fx300. Clutch masters makes a couple other versions too. There are few people that have them.

It would definitely be useful for the forum if we can get everyone chiming in about all their experiences good and bad about clutches, flywheel options, and how they intend on using the car.
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      12-14-2012, 06:35 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions View Post
Only other comparable clutch that is popular is the clutch masters fx100 and fx300. Clutch masters makes a couple other versions too. There are few people that have them.

It would definitely be useful for the forum if we can get everyone chiming in about all their experiences good and bad about clutches, flywheel options, and how they intend on using the car.
And even then, I'd say the Spec 2+ is a higher torque rating than the fx100, and the fx300 is kevlar, I believe, which isn't a great option for most, in my opinion.
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      12-15-2012, 01:22 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe View Post
And even then, I'd say the Spec 2+ is a higher torque rating than the fx100, and the fx300 is kevlar, I believe, which isn't a great option for most, in my opinion.
s2+ states its a Hybrid Kevlar and Carbon-Graphite Friction material. Does than mean kevlar on one side and carbon on the other?
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      12-15-2012, 11:48 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe View Post
And even then, I'd say the Spec 2+ is a higher torque rating than the fx100, and the fx300 is kevlar, I believe, which isn't a great option for most, in my opinion.
I agree, and they have an FX400 for this car too.

Here are some notes about it.

Quote:
The FX400 System uses the Power Plus I Pressure Plate with a custom, extremely durable, Sprung Ceramic disc. This is the ultimate extreme duty street and/or road/drag racing system. It is available in a 4,6 or 8 wing (paddle) configuration, with the 4-wing being the more aggressive setup and 8-wing being the less aggressive (please specify which type you prefer). The sprung hub design allows for moderate dampening in high-torque applications, rendering it much more street friendly than solid or rigid designs. This disc is designed for outstanding holding capacity, and rapid heat dissipation. The FX400 ceramic paddle design creates a quick and rapid engagement as well as clutch chatter that may not be ideal for street driven vehicles. #

Warning: Due to the solid (no Marcel) friction rivet design, the FX400 disc engages very quickly and may chatter slightly in first and reverse. To help alleviate this problem, we only use premium ceramic friction material.





All stages come as a complete kit including disc, pressure plate,
throwout bearing, pilot bearing (when applicable), and alignment tool.
(Individual components available upon request)



#Ceramic based clutch disc are not intended to increase the life expectancy of a clutch rather to increase the holding capacity and improve the durability of the clutch. Using a ceramic based material for easy street driving may reduce the life of the clutch kit due to harsh engagement and higher tendency to slip the clutch kit. Ceramic disc are never recommended for stock or near stock vehicle applications.
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      01-08-2013, 12:06 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
Only other comparable clutch that is popular is the clutch masters fx100 and fx300. Clutch masters makes a couple other versions too. There are few people that have them.

It would definitely be useful for the forum if we can get everyone chiming in about all their experiences good and bad about clutches, flywheel options, and how they intend on using the car.
I have had Stock, ACT street, and now the FX100 w/SMFW.
The ACT Street was installed initally after my stocker gave up around 74,000miles. It has the heavier than stock feel and lower take up as others have stated. I didn't mind it so much, but it started slipping after only 7-8000 miles on it. The shop that installed it looked at everything and said the fly wheel portion (what ever has springs in it) was going bad and causing the slipping. This slipping damaged the new ACT to a point where they both needed to be replaced. To go back to stock or change to single mass set up was the same price so I thought better perfomance and went with the FX100
The FX100 was a nusuance from the first drive after install and was in the car for only 1 year, roughly 12,000 miles, before it started slipping. Due to being SMFW it rattles at idle in neutral and even worse if the a/c is on. If you rev past 800-850 rpm it goes away. During driving it causes horrible noises (harmonics) to resonate throughout the car from initial engagment through about 1800RPM. The more you lug it the worse the harmonics and vibrations. If I had known all this prior to install I would haven't choosen this set up, partly my fault for not researching and trusting my shop to recommend and install quality parts. Like I said before the clutch is now slipping any time I accelerate in any gear at 1800 rpms and up (peak TQ band) when it is cold. Once the temp gauge comes up to 150-180 it seems to hold better. Also it seems to have begun slipping and catching under hard acceleration....stuttering for lack of better words. All that being said the FX100 feels just like stock and would be fine without the embarassing rattles at idle and nauseating noise during acceleration (even normal accelerations).
Moral of story ACT street probably OK for most applications, but might be weak for E85, Meth, or a single Turbo setup
FX100=POS
I'm looking for a good replacement now and haven't a clue where to go! I can't even trust my shop anymore
My car: '07 E90 AMS FMIC, AR catless DP's, Custom tune, and other bits and pieces that don't affect this thread.
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      01-08-2013, 12:33 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwanna335 View Post
I have had Stock, ACT street, and now the FX100 w/SMFW.
The ACT Street was installed initally after my stocker gave up around 74,000miles. It has the heavier than stock feel and lower take up as others have stated. I didn't mind it so much, but it started slipping after only 7-8000 miles on it. The shop that installed it looked at everything and said the fly wheel portion (what ever has springs in it) was going bad and causing the slipping. This slipping damaged the new ACT to a point where they both needed to be replaced. To go back to stock or change to single mass set up was the same price so I thought better perfomance and went with the FX100
The FX100 was a nusuance from the first drive after install and was in the car for only 1 year, roughly 12,000 miles, before it started slipping. Due to being SMFW it rattles at idle in neutral and even worse if the a/c is on. If you rev past 800-850 rpm it goes away. During driving it causes horrible noises (harmonics) to resonate throughout the car from initial engagment through about 1800RPM. The more you lug it the worse the harmonics and vibrations. If I had known all this prior to install I would haven't choosen this set up, partly my fault for not researching and trusting my shop to recommend and install quality parts. Like I said before the clutch is now slipping any time I accelerate in any gear at 1800 rpms and up (peak TQ band) when it is cold. Once the temp gauge comes up to 150-180 it seems to hold better. Also it seems to have begun slipping and catching under hard acceleration....stuttering for lack of better words. All that being said the FX100 feels just like stock and would be fine without the embarassing rattles at idle and nauseating noise during acceleration (even normal accelerations).
Moral of story ACT street probably OK for most applications, but might be weak for E85, Meth, or a single Turbo setup
FX100=POS
I'm looking for a good replacement now and haven't a clue where to go! I can't even trust my shop anymore
Good info, thanks for that.
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      01-08-2013, 03:01 PM   #40
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I ended up getting the Spec 2+ from top gear. It's going in next week.
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      01-08-2013, 03:36 PM   #41
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Quote:
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I ended up getting the Spec 2+ from top gear. It's going in next week.
well definitely let us know how this goes and the initial feel as i really need a new clutch also...i think many of us here do.
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      01-16-2013, 07:37 AM   #42
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Yes please do let us know how the Spec 2+ is.

Mine started to slip just now after I swapped from the Stg2Drive -> E30 Map. 2nd gear at 3-4k it would slip, and same with 3rd gear at 3-4k.

Could cold temps cause clutch slip? Its been abnormally cold here lately, 30F degrees approximately when this just happened tonight.

Clutch seemed to hold just find earlier in the day.
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      01-16-2013, 04:49 PM   #43
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I know people have had issues with HPF's feramic clutch melting. I never plan to drag race, so as a day to day clutch running full e85. It's been great for the last 1500 miles. I live in San Francisco and have no issues in regards to driveability. Stiffer than stock, but great engagement and very good as a DD clutch. The downside is that it's super pricey. I am running it with a resurfaced stock DMF.
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      01-21-2013, 11:21 AM   #44
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I had the clutch installed on Friday by GRIDLOCK. If anyone needs shop work done in the south bay area, he is your man. He kept me informed throughout the process and literally sent me 20 photos as he was doing clutch swap. He was very knowledgeable and straight forward with possible problems and most importantly, price. I highly recommend.

Here are pics of my flywheel and new spec clutch. Since my flywheel looked so good, it was not resurfaced. (flywheel had 57k miles on it)
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