DIY: Retrofit Projectors and Angel Eyes into your LCI Halogen Headlights
DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU MESS UP YOUR HEADLIGHTS FOLLOWING MY GUIDE AS IT SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR REFERENCE. ONLY ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION YOU ARE CAPABLE
*In this guide, I cut the headlights open. My reasoning is because the only part of the headlight that you will see is probably 6 inches that is exposed on the hood. I just taped over the silicone to make the entire headlight presentable. Also, there is a grey trim that covers up the black housing which was cut, so you won't see any sealant at all.
Also, it probably takes 25 minutes to cut the headlights open opposed to 4 hours prying & heating
I also simplified the wiring process because I thought it was easy.
When you get inside the headlights, the painting is up to you and it should be obvious which pieces should be removed, etc.
*Some things to watch out for:
ALWAYS USE CLEAN GLOVES WHEN WORKING ON THE HEADLIGHTS
BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET EPOXY ON ANYTHING
MASK THE PROJECTOR AND HIGH BEAM BOWL SO THEY DON'T GET DIRTY
BE PATIENT THIS MAY TAKE UP TO 3 DAYS, BUT WHO CARES, YOU HAVE TO DO A GOOD JOB
A BETTER FORMATTED VERSION OF THE DIY CONTAINING A FEW PICTURES IS IN THE PDF! PLEASE READ THAT.
I'm sorry if the details are sparse in the guide, but this is what I did.
Retrofitting Projectors and Angel Eyes on E90 LCI Halogen by Dominators 4/6/13
• Dremel or Oscillating tool
• Epoxy (liquid and putty)
• Torx screw driver
• Socket driver / wrench (8mm & 10mm)
• Silicone based sealant (recommend black, but clear works well)
- Check the temperature rating of the silicone and make sure it is > 250
Items required for the retrofit:
• Projector (FX-R or H1 Morimoto Mini*)
- I highly recommend minis because you don’t have to modify the reflector bowl. It was very hard modifying the bowl to fit the FX-R
• Projector shroud with centric rings ( I used e46-r extended shrouds; you should too if you go FX-R)
• Angel Eyes (Umnitza Orion v2/v4)
• HID bulbs (d2s or H1 depending on your projector)
• Wiring Harness
1.) Remove the bumper: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16992 Scroll through; there are criticisms of the DIY that state two screws need to be removed on each side of the bumper which were not listed on the original DIY.
2.) Remove the headlights: http://www.speedstersource.com/INSTA...ALL_B3_E90.pdf
3.) Remove all bulbs.
4.) Cut the headlights open… REFER TO http://www.streetfire.net/video/clea...ght_731685.htm
- To do this you must use your cutting tool at the LOWEST speed. This is to avoid melting the plastic.
- You use the half circular saw if you use the oscillating tool or a reinforced fiber cut off wheel if you’re using a dremel.
- You should cut right at the SEAM where the black housing and the clear lens meet.
- While cutting, cut slowly and carefully; do not rush and go to a faster speed.
- You must not cut at the same spot for too long or else you will melt the plastic.
- After cutting it, clean the cut areas with a knife making sure it is not jagged or making sure it does not have any melted plastic left over.
5.) Once you have the head lights open, you’re going to want to remove the plastic angel eyes and all the trims if you wish to paint them. Make sure to mask the high beam bowl if you do not wish to damage it.
-----FX – R PROJECTOR INSTRUCTIONS --------
6.) After removing the items stated earlier, you must remove the halogen bowl by unscrewing the two screws in the picture. Get a drill and turn the two screws to the right to fully release the bowl from the aiming screws.
7.) After that, take your dremel and cut the areas of the projector as shown
- The reason we have to cut this is because unfortunately, the projector does not fit without modification into a gutted halogen bowl.
8.) After cutting the projector, you are now going to dremel out the majority of your halogen bowl until the projector will fit. Please take your time doing this… You don’t want to have a loose projector because it will make it VERY hard to aim the projector.
9.) This is a very crucial step and will be very hard to do by yourself. You need to be quick in doing this and it depends completely on your epoxy putty’s cure time.
- Mix the epoxy putty to activate it and line the halogen bowl with it; especially the top part.
- You’re going to want to put back the halogen bowl trim if you painted it. Mask it with painters tape so you don’t damage the paint job.
- At this moment, you have to put the halogen bowl back into the headlight housing by lining up the aiming screws and turning the top with your drill to the LEFT.
- After that, hurry and mount the headlight back into your bracket and make SURE the projector is straight and not crooked. We’re not trying to aim the projector now, we just want to make sure it is straight and not slanted; you can do that later with the aiming screw after the fact.
-----End FX-R PROJECTOR INSTRUCTIONS--------
FOR MORIMOTO MINI H1 INSTALL REFER TO:
10.) After that is completed, mount your shroud and assemble the headlight back together minus the clear lens. At this point you have to mount the angel eyes.
*PLEASE DO THIS AT YOUR DISCRETION; THIS IS JUST HOW I DID IT AND DOES NOT NEED TO BE FOLLOWED IF YOU HAVE A BETTER METHOD*
- Using an 11x / 9x ring set up will work well (Orion sizes)
- Epoxy the inner rings right on top of the highbeam. It should have very good fitment.
- A note about epoxying. Do not apply the epoxy right away once you activate it because it’ll still be a liquid mess. There should be a point where the epoxy is viscous enough to work with.
- For the outer rings, you have to get styrene or plastic card and cement them to the top of the Orion rings.
- Once you’ve done that, sand down the styrene until you’re left with a flat even surface.
- Epoxy that flat surface you created to the top of the headlight’s trim (the grey housing trim).
11.) Wiring the angel eyes… Take the original angel eye wires and figure out which side is positive and negative. Refer to the picture.
- The shape of the OEM angel eye power source is a a trapezoid and using that information, use the picture to determine its polarity.
- Holding the connector with the longest side on the bottom with the opening facing you, the LEFT is NEGATIVE while the RIGHT is POSITIVE
12.) Solder the Orion’s wiring box wire to the OEM angel eye connectors.
13.) TAP the solenoid wires on the projector to the H7 high beam wire. Make sure you do not accidently tap into the angel eye wire.
MAKE A NEW DUST COVER FOR THE LOWBEAM
14.) Since you’re using a d2s or h1 connector, you need to take your original low beam dust cover and dremel it all out and make a new dust cover that will fit the HID adapter.
- I used tape to construct an enclosure and cut a star shaped thing to allow the wires to run through
RESEALING THE LENS REFER TO http://www.streetfire.net/video/part...hts_731857.htm
15.) Take the headlight lens and make damn sure that it is clean and free of finger prints then saran wrap the top of the lens to avoid damage.
16.) Seal up the headlights by putting silicone into the gaps that you cut. Make sure everything is sealed and there are no holes. Reopening them is easy once you have them siliconed; just take a knife and slice right through it.
17.) After you seal it with silicone, clamp it or use weights or a rice bag on each headlight to make sure they’re sealed properly.
18.) After headlight is sealed, get black tape and tape over the silicone (not necessary, but I just did it to avoid tearing the silicone when remounting the headlights).
SETTING UP YOUR HID SYSTEM
19.) Wire your HID wiring harness.
20.) Mount your ballasts accordingly so they can reach the wiring harness & headlights.
21.) Connect everything and test your system.
AIMING YOUR NEW PROJECTORS
22.) Aim the headlights using the screws. The up/down screw is accessible by just looking in the hood, but the left/right aiming screw has to be reached from the hole in the fender. It’s wide enough for a screw driver to fit through.
23.) Refer to this aiming guide: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=464202