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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > Question about system install



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      12-27-2012, 06:42 AM   #1
Dannyboy
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Question about system install

After about a month of research I've finally gathered up all the components I need to swap out the hi-fi audio in my 06 E90. Thanks to all who posted on here and took time to share their knowledge.

Quick background..I bought the car a month ago after getting into a nasty accident and totaling my RSX. So I'm bringing some pieces from my old car.

List of products"

Alpine cda 117 (yes I know about the issues with swapping out the headunit, however in my situatuion all I would be losing are the chimes. If I ever need to bring it back to the dealer it would take 15 minutes to swap out the head unit)

Audiocontrol DQX w/ DDC for DSP

JL audio xd600/6 to run the fronts and the under seats.

CDT cl42...for the fronts

Jehnert 200xe for the midbass

I may add a sub to the mix since I have an amp and 2 Jl subs laying around.


Anyway on to my question. I'm running at least 4 cables to the trunk already so running four more wouldnt be an issue but I'm wondering if I would need to or not. The four cables I'm referring to are for the speakers. Do I need to run new speaker cable or can I just tap into the oem wiring and go into the amp that way?

The Jehnerts have an adapter so I'm pretty sure all i need to do is tap into the wire at the oem amp and run into the JL. Same with the fronts, but from what I researched the oem fronts have a cap inline. if I tap the fronts would I need to somehow bypass the cap? Or should I say screw it and run new speaker wire to the trunk? Is there a difference in wire oem vs aftermarket? Would I be better off?

Anyway thanks for reading.
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      12-27-2012, 08:02 AM   #2
dmatre
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Get a Tecnics wiring adapter - makes the whole deal plug & play, with no cutting required. Also makes it a snap to go back to stock when your love affair with this car is over...

After that, it's all a no-brainer. There are several good writeups for replacing the door speakers & underseats.

Also, you'll probably want to consider moving the stock radio to the trunk - so that you maintain the chimes, and so that the dealership can check/update software. There are several threads here outlining this as well.

With a good adapter/harness, the total install should be about 5-6 hours (assuming that you've done this type of work before). The first door/underseat will take 2-3 times longer than the other side, so don't get discouraged if it seems to be dragging. Once you figure out exactly how to remove the door cards without damage, they pop right off.

I do recommend to get some of the plastic interior trim removal tools from Harbor Freight/Pep Boys/etc. They make removal of the doors & trunk trim safer and mark-free.

Good luck!
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      12-27-2012, 08:53 AM   #3
Dannyboy
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Hey thanks damtre...looking forward to starting but the weather in the northeast is killing me right now!

I've been all over these boards and got some really good info. Picked up a set of trim removal tools for 6 bucks!

Since i'm changing out the head unit I have to run remote, power and rca's to the trunk anyway so the Technics harness may be overkill for me. I figured I could just tap into the front and under seat speakres at the oem amp. What I'm unsure about is whether the oem wires would be enough or should I just run new speaker wires for the under seats and the doors. I know the doors have a cap inline so I don't know if I tap into the front speaker wires if I can bypass the cap since I have passive crossovers. I saw that getting new wires into the doors may be a pain.
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      12-27-2012, 08:54 AM   #4
Dannyboy
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If I'm wrong about needing the Technics harness please let me know how I could go about wiring the equipment I have. Thanks.
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      12-27-2012, 10:46 AM   #5
dmatre
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I also have the JL600/6 and am using the stock speaker wires without issue.

When you swap out the door speakers, the cap will come out with them - so no problems there. If the cross-over is small enough, you can mount it in the door with some adhesive-backed velcro (available at Lowe's or Home Depot). This means almost no cutting of factory wiring at all. (Run the factory door speaker lead to the X-over, then run individual (new) wiring to the 4" and tweeter).
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      12-27-2012, 10:51 AM   #6
Dannyboy
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Awesome Thanks Dmatre! Thats all I needed to know I was worried about the cap in the doors. This will save me the headache of having to run new wires. I'll just tap into the wires at the oem for fronts and under seats.

Thanks again. Will try to popst some pics when I finally get to installing everything.
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