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      11-02-2012, 10:34 AM   #1
james008
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Bought Moded car learning the ropes

I just got an 09 335i slightly modded by previous owner. Can't get ahold of previous owner so I am digging around learning.

Got under the car yesterday learned I have catless DP's, already knew I had fabricated exhaust.

How do I find out how they did the DP fix? Do all catless DPs throw codes?

I would like to add vibrant resinators to quiet it down or should I put OEM DPs back in. The custom exhaust is DP back no mid cats, even has a bypass to eliminate mufflers. Ran it yesterday, for fun, bypassing everything, crazy loud but felt wide open.
Will post pics when I get home. Thoughts or suggestions?
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      11-02-2012, 10:40 AM   #2
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all catless dps will throw codes and a cel, if its not there the previous owner put in a dp fix or was running a map like cobb stg2 that auto clears it.
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      11-02-2012, 10:42 AM   #3
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Keep the dp's on and run a tune that auto clears cat codes (if not allready present)...
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      11-02-2012, 10:43 AM   #4
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How do I find out what map or fix is being run? I bought a coding cable and plan or learning INPA and some light coding.
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      11-02-2012, 10:51 AM   #5
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Pop open the ECU and see what is inside

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      11-02-2012, 10:51 AM   #6
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Buy my stock dp and put it back on
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      11-02-2012, 10:53 AM   #7
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probably running a tune with the DPs or else you would have CELs every time.
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      11-02-2012, 10:55 AM   #8
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Congratulations on your purchase! Yes, all catless downpipes will throw codes. Is your CEL on? If not, you're probably tuned or have a DP fix. Most likely you have a piggyback in your ECU compartment. The easiest way to check is to double tap the DTC button. If the CEL light flashes or the tachometer suddenly shifts positions, you have a PROcede. If you push down on the volume down and channel down buttons (I think) on your steering wheel at the same time and something similar happens, then you have a JB4.

It's very likely that the previous owner sold the tune separately, but its worth opening the ECu box to check and load the latest firmware and maps onto whichever tune you have (if any).
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      11-02-2012, 10:59 AM   #9
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Here's a video of how to get into your ECU box.


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      11-02-2012, 11:06 AM   #10
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Thank you for the replies, love this site. I have had the car for about a month and no CEL light. However I do have seatbelt and Airbag lights on, which is why I bought the coding cable. One hurdle, which I am learning is pretty big, is that the previous owner also removed the oem radio and put in a Kenwood 8120 which I was excitted to have with navi and bluetooth and dvd and ipod and so on but learning that the radio is tied in with the main computer. My steering wheel controls do not work. I tried them to see if I had JB. I will try the DTC next.

If I get into the ECU what should I look for?
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      11-02-2012, 11:17 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james008 View Post
If I get into the ECU what should I look for?
Any wiring that does not look stock. Might be simpler to just snap a pic and post it.

Both the JB4 and Procede are pretty big so they would be hard to miss. The DP fix if installed in the ECU compartment is about 3 wires and pretty small but should be obvious.

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      11-02-2012, 12:06 PM   #12
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DTC didnt do anything probably just a DP fix will check tonight.
Will JB4 work if my steering wheel controls don't? I have been told I can't get updates installed from dealership without a oem radio unit?
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      11-09-2012, 02:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james008 View Post
Thank you for the replies, love this site. I have had the car for about a month and no CEL light. However I do have seatbelt and Airbag lights on, which is why I bought the coding cable. One hurdle, which I am learning is pretty big, is that the previous owner also removed the oem radio and put in a Kenwood 8120 which I was excitted to have with navi and bluetooth and dvd and ipod and so on but learning that the radio is tied in with the main computer. My steering wheel controls do not work. I tried them to see if I had JB. I will try the DTC next.

If I get into the ECU what should I look for?
Something like this....
Not a good sign if your steering wheel controls dont work either...
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      11-09-2012, 04:07 PM   #14
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Gonna have to crack open the DME container. Also possible that you have a flash based tune installed (COBB, GIAC). If you have a COBB tune installed, you've got a real problem because it doesn't sound like you have the AccessPORT that's "married" to the car.

If you've got a GIAC code, try calling up them directly with your VIN number, they might be able to see if they've flashed anything on your vehicle.
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      11-10-2012, 04:36 AM   #15
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why are seatbelt and airbag lights on? did you get a carfax before purchasing? car might have been in a wreck, and previous owner may not have cleared codes after replacing bst and seatbelt.
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      11-11-2012, 12:08 AM   #16
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Car was transported from Cali to North Carolina. Bought in dealer auction, seller says lights weren't on, transporter says it isn't their problem. My guess is that a seat belt pretensioner is blown horn works and it's an aftermarket stereo so steering wheel controls aren't linked to the headunit or speakers. Carfax shows no accidents.
Just recieved my coding cable in the mail yesterday, going to start on that next.
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      11-11-2012, 12:24 AM   #17
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Sounds like you have some issues here, some could be major. The stock stereo is more then sufficent to make you happy source a new unit. Removing the stock system will disable the steering wheel buttons, dont worry just swap the stock back in for the return of functionality. As for airbag could be as simple as a reset, an accident, or a general fault.
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      11-11-2012, 06:47 AM   #18
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I had the same airbag and seatbelt light because my car was once in a crash and it turned out to be a able that connect to the battery and breaks off when your car gets into an accident so it disconnects from your battery
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      11-18-2012, 03:36 AM   #19
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Pretensioners are fine. Got my coding wire, going to start learning how to code and reset SRS. Took a picture of the ECU, it just has the DP fix. But while getting in there to check things out I notice obsurdity. Neither pipe running from my intake had a hose clamp on it and they were not even connected. Now I may have bumped them off when I was removing the cabin filter but wtf. Last owner must have had DCI and put stock back and decided the clamps weren't worth the hassle. Made a 1am trip to walmart, those pipes are a pain to re-attach.

Going back towards stock, trying to find a OEM radio to install either in the glove compartment or the trunk. Picked up stock speakers all the way around.

It's getting there.
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      11-19-2012, 09:43 AM   #20
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Someone gave me a bluetooth ODBII reader, I downloaded an app called torque and it has a boost guage. I used it driving to work yesterday and the highest it ever got was +2.7psi and lowest was -11.2 give or take. What should I take fromt that?
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      11-19-2012, 01:02 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james008
Someone gave me a bluetooth ODBII reader, I downloaded an app called torque and it has a boost guage. I used it driving to work yesterday and the highest it ever got was +2.7psi and lowest was -11.2 give or take. What should I take fromt that?
The lowest doesnt mean much, but your max seems low. On stock ECU with the Torque app and BT reader i was getting 4-5
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      11-19-2012, 01:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james008 View Post
Pretensioners are fine. Got my coding wire, going to start learning how to code and reset SRS. Took a picture of the ECU, it just has the DP fix. But while getting in there to check things out I notice obsurdity. Neither pipe running from my intake had a hose clamp on it and they were not even connected. Now I may have bumped them off when I was removing the cabin filter but wtf. Last owner must have had DCI and put stock back and decided the clamps weren't worth the hassle. Made a 1am trip to walmart, those pipes are a pain to re-attach.

Going back towards stock, trying to find a OEM radio to install either in the glove compartment or the trunk. Picked up stock speakers all the way around.

It's getting there.
Not sure if you took off filters for this picture but if you didn't you're problem is bigger then you think.

Those hoses are not to be connected.

They should have a filter on each end. One filter to each turbo.

Your car is currently breathing in open air, which can ingest dirt and debris ruining your turbo's and or engine.



A quick fix is to pick up some Dual Cone Intakes, they are relatively inexpensive.

I also have an OEM air box with about 100 miles on it if your interested too.


Whichever route your go you will still need to source the clamps as neither comes with them.

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