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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > N54 335i Outlet DIY Install VTT / MMP



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      04-09-2017, 05:53 PM   #1
DownForce92
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N54 335i Outlet DIY Install VTT / MMP

Hello everyone, thought I'd make an outlet install guide since I haven't been able to find one with pictures. VTT and MMP both have DIY guides but unfortunately they only include one or two photos. This particular install was done with VTT outlets, so if you are going MMP the steps might be a little different. Also this was done on a 335i coupe, so if you have a 135, or a 535 the steps might also be different.
Please do not turn this into a post where everyone just argues about shitty vendor designs, or shitty installs by customer. My goal here is to not offend any vendor, or forum member while providing a comprehensible DIY.
Here is the car, follow me on IG to keep up with the build: e92driver
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A few notes before we begin, you do NOT need to: remove downpipes, remove radiator fan, or lower the intercooler.
I did the job without doing these. Removing these items does add extra space but I had enough space to work with.
Install time is about 5-6 hours. Now that I have done this job I could probably do it in 4 hours. The car does NOT need any tuning changes, its ready to go as soon as everything is in order and you should see a gain of about 10-15 whp from what I have seen from others. This is not a complicated install. Longest part was trimming carefully little by little the outlet because I was paranoid of cutting too small. I would say the difficulty level is in between FMIC install and Downpipes install.

Step 1: prep
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Step 2: Remove 2 10mm bolts holding down the coolant bottle
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Step 3: Remove sensor located at the bottom of coolant bottle
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Step 4: Remove vacuum canisters. I already had mine relocated so here is a picture I found online.
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Step 5: Loosen aftermarket FMIC clamp that connects to the stock outlet. I didn't get a picture, but here is one I found on this forum (ignore the words in red). You only need to loosen the top clamp.
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Step 5 Continued: I used a 11mm wrench, a flexible ratcheting wrench would work much faster
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Step 5b: If you still have the OEM intercooler, you will need to cut here as shown in another picture I found (I doubt any of you still have the factory intercooler if you are planning on installing outlets but ill include just in case.)
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Step 6: Grab your t30 (top one in picture)
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Step 7: Assemble your wrench in a way that will fit the front turbo connection. I used a flexible extension as shown here, and fit it in between the Y section. The positioning on your clamp might be slightly different so you might need to assemble differently.
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And here is what it looks like from the other side.
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Step 8: Remove rear turbo connection to stock outlet. Again, assemble your wrench with the t30 in a way that will fit. Here is what I used for this connection. This is done from the bottom of the car.
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Here is what the connection looks like. The picture was taken after I removed the clamp from under the car.
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Step 9: Now your stock outlet should be ready to come off. Push down toward the bottom of the car to allow room for the outlet-intercooler connection to disconnect, then pull back up. Here is a comparison. The VTT outlet is much longer and will need to be trimmed for the 335i.
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Step 10: Trim your VTT outlet. It will need to be trimmed in 2 locations. First is about 7 inches off the FMIC connection, second is about 4 inches off the front turbo connection. I STRONGLY recommend cutting little by little, test fitting it after every cut to make sure you do not over do it. You do not want to end up with a product that is too short and does not reach the connections. Here is how much I cut from front turbo connection, and FMIC connection. To the left is the silicone connection provided by VTT for size reference.
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Step 11: Connect rear turbo connection, stick your hands in through these spaces (through the side of the downpipes, and through the wheel well). One hand will hold the silicone connection flush to the turbo, and the other will squish together the OEM clamp. Once properly done, let go (it should hold by itself) and screw in the t30. Position clamp in a way that will allow your wrench to fit to tighten it later. Leave loose for now to allow for adjustments.
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Here is my hand sticking out through the other side of the wheel well.
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Here is the space between the downpipes
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And that's what it will look like looking down from inside the engine bay.
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The rear connection on the silicone pipe has an adapter that is securely attached to the pipe, therefore all that is needed Is the OEM clamp that connects the adapter to the turbo. See numbered list to see what I'm talking about.
Rear Turbo:
1) OEM clamp
2) VTT Straight adapter
3) VTT Secure clamp (cant be removed)
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Step 12: Place your curved adapter into the silicone pipe for the front turbo connection, then use OEM clamp to secure it to the front turbo. You will use same technique as the rear connection. Again, one hand will push down on the silicone connection to hold it flush to the front turbo, the other hand will squish together the OEM clamp. Then let go, grab your t30 screw and tighten. Again, place clamp in a way that will allow wrench to reach it, tighten loosely for now.

Step 13: Since the curved adapter does not come securely attached to the silicone pipe (as does the rear adapter), you will need to grab your clamp provided by VTT and secure the adapter to the silicone.
Front Turbo:
1) VTT bolt on clamp
2) VTT Curved adapter
3) OEM clamp
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Step 14: Secure FMIC connection. Slip in adapter provided by VTT and slip it in half way between the silicone outlet, and half way between the FMIC silicone connection using VTT clamp. Secure them using an 11 mm wrench. Ratcheting flexible would be best.
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Here is a sketch in case you don't know what I mean.
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Since I used the silicone coupler and clamp that came with my VRSF intercooler, I didn't have to use the VTT coupler and clamp, thus saving time. The VTT coupler that I didn't use is on the left
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Step 15: Now adjust for spacing, and go back and tighten every connection that you left loose.
Step 16: install parts you took off like coolant bottle and done.


Notes:

Note 1: I got very good fitment from where people usually have them melt on MMP outlets (in between the front turbo, and rear turbo connection.
here is how mine came out.
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Here is where I see most of them melt
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This is from another forum member, NOT MINE. This is too close! I don't know if it was install issue, or MMP design issue, I don't care.
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Note 2: Now, for the front turbo connection, it sits pretty close. This worries me. However I have seen many others with the same spacing between manifold and front turbo connection. And I have only seen them melt from between the rear and front turbo outlet as I stated earlier.
This is one of the pictures that I found with the exact same spacing as I have for the front turbo outlet.
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And here is another picture with the same spacing as me incase you don't believe me when I say that most of them sit like mine from the front turbo connection.
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And another with the same spacing as me.
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Okay, now lets see why it is near impossible to get a better clearance for the front turbo outlet. Here is a picture from VTT. Look at how close the curved adapter sits to the manifold. The adapter is non flexible and it already sits so close to the manifold. So when putting the silicone over the adapter it is clear that the silicone will be even closer to the manifold because of its thickness of maybe 3 mm?
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Anyway that's all I have, let me know if I missed anything. Thank you for your time.

Last edited by DownForce92; 04-19-2017 at 03:09 AM.
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      04-19-2017, 01:15 AM   #2
autoart
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How long did it take you? Would you say it was hard to do? Did you have to retune the car to feel a difference? Thanks, Its a very helpful diy
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      04-19-2017, 03:17 AM   #3
DownForce92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autoart View Post
How long did it take you? Would you say it was hard to do? Did you have to retune the car to feel a difference? Thanks, Its a very helpful diy
Thanks for the kind words. took me about 5.5 hours. Could do it in probably 4 hours now that I have done this job. Its not hard, downpipes were harder to do. I would say the difficulty level lies between FMIC install and Downpipe install.
You do not need to retune to get some power. If no tuning changes are made you can get about 10-15 whp. If re-tuned my guess would be about 25whp maybe. I updated the post to include this information.
I will dyno within a month or so and report back.
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