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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY EASY way for N54 Vacuum Lines replacement of Front Turbo Actuator



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      11-17-2017, 01:38 PM   #1
DarkNemesis
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DIY EASY way for N54 Vacuum Lines replacement of Front Turbo Actuator

This Guide is ONLY for the REALLY Tough Front Turbo Vacuum line.
Rest are pretty Self explanatory.

replaced my Lines with 3.5mm (Inner Diameter) Rubber tubes from local autostore. (Lordco) they said it is used for turbo cars and Windshield washer lines also....LOL
you will need 13 feet but ordered 15 feet.

Now those Rubber Hoses worked, my Boost Code disappeared but rattle was still there coming to a actuator rod....

so, I decided to replace all lines with COOL RED color and Black color Silicone Vacuum lines.
RESULT: ok....rattle was significantly reduced but still there and not as loud.
made a big difference.

so use good stuff. PS: I replaced them on both sides of the engine....meaning all Lines....right to the Turbo actuators.
Front Turbo is a PITA.... but I figured out a Ingenious way to get it OFF and ON.

This Link has the Best Prices I found and very good Product:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot

DO NOT Replace the Plastic Lines on top of Engine. else you may get a burning spell in the Cabin.

Front Turbo tips:
1- to remove old lines, I used a Safety blade to cut them.....then twist and pull off...(this is for all connectors and T joints)
2) Front Turbo, un-Mount Vacuum canisters and Coolant Reservoir. No Need to Remove.....just get it out of the way, and give your Hand and Arm more room.
3) with LEFT HAND - Now you can ONLY get 1 Hand in there, and can only get 2 fingers on the line....so...
4) Get an EXACTO knife that is fully functional and NOT too Thick in width.
dollar store stuff will work.
5) with RIGHT HAND - Slide Exacto knife from front of Engine and then extract the Blade so it touches the vacuum line. (with your left hand in there.....try to visually see your hand from the front of the engine....that will be your entry point for the Exacto Knife.)
6) with Left Hand( Fingers) push on back of blade to cut the OEM Line. (don't worry about damaging actuator.....it's the only vacuum connector that is metal.)


Now to get the Line back on.....its a PITA cause the Vacuum line does not keep a Bended shape and you can only do so much with 2 fingers

so....my way... go to homedepot wiring department and take a 1 inch length vacuum line with you. (just 1 Inch will do, and just to test in the store)
Ask for a SOLID STRAND wiring. (50 cent per METER)
now, strip the insulation off the wire to see it easily fits into the Vacuum line.
if so....Buy it. 1 meter will do. (coat Hanger is tooo Thick. and tooo Rigid) you want a Line, that is thinner than a Coat Hanger.


1) Cut the exact length of vacuum line you need for front turbo. (you wont be able to measure it later)
2) from the Front of the Engine, get your New Sold strand wire into the Front actuator vacuum connector. (Fish your solid strand from the same spot that you used for the Exacto Knife.) With Left Hand make sure your Solid Strand is INSERTED into the Turbo actuator Vacuum Connector.

3) Slide your vacuum line onto (on top of) the SOLID Strand wire.....that is your Fool proof guide and all you need to do is push it on the vacuum connector. when it feels line it is in all the way......just pull the solid strand out.

Good Luck, and Enjoy quicker Throttle Response.
Just paying back to the community that helped me out.
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      12-11-2017, 09:03 AM   #2
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So you're using the solid strand wire to as a guide? It makes the new hose follow it down to the connector?
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      12-11-2017, 12:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarronbwall View Post
So you're using the solid strand wire to as a guide? It makes the new hose follow it down to the connector?
correct.... else it's a Pain the in the rear.
also note to put i the solid strand in from the front of the engine rather than the side. use left hand to guide into the turbo actuator connector.

good luck.
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      12-11-2017, 04:04 PM   #4
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Gosh, I wish I had this in June when I did mine. I fiddled with the front actuator for a couple of hours trying to get the new line on. I ended up having to whittle out the opening a little in the front part of the line just so I could have a better chance of getting the line on the actuator tube. It worked, but this would be a whole lot easier, thats for sure.
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      12-12-2017, 09:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Gosh, I wish I had this in June when I did mine. I fiddled with the front actuator for a couple of hours trying to get the new line on. I ended up having to whittle out the opening a little in the front part of the line just so I could have a better chance of getting the line on the actuator tube. It worked, but this would be a whole lot easier, thats for sure.
LOL .... I did what you did the first time with the rubber lines.... yeah it took me 2 hours also.
2 second time..... I could not get the new Silicon line to bend as easily as the rubber lines. and it would just miss it's mark. and I was trying from the front also. but by the time you put pressure on the line, ....it slipped....wtf.

So, I decided to learn how not to let it slip off.... then wola.

mweisdorfer I found something when I removed my rubber lines.....you should check this....the line was not in all the way....so....feel the actuator's metal connector and see if your new line is in all the way.
feel the metal connector's bottom...and how far up is the new line?
also if you used Silicone lines, then the wall thickness is bigger.....so you see a point where you can not push any further.

but other than rattle noise reduction, i had huge lag reduction also..... big difference.
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      12-12-2017, 09:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkNemesis View Post
LOL .... I did what you did the first time with the rubber lines.... yeah it took me 2 hours also.
2 second time..... I could not get the new Silicon line to bend as easily as the rubber lines. and it would just miss it's mark. and I was trying from the front also. but by the time you put pressure on the line, ....it slipped....wtf.

So, I decided to learn how not to let it slip off.... then wola.
I think one of the reason you guys struggled is because its a thick walled 3.5mm hose. I used a 4mm hose for the wg barbs. Those are fat barbs and 4mm hose works much easier and snug.
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      12-12-2017, 09:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
I think one of the reason you guys struggled is because its a thick walled 3.5mm hose. I used a 4mm hose for the wg barbs. Those are fat barbs and 4mm hose works much easier and snug.
never even considered this.
but the oem hose line is 3.5mm right?....or we wrong there also?
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      12-12-2017, 09:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkNemesis View Post
never even considered this.
but the oem hose line is 3.5mm right?....or we wrong there also?
Well, i have tried the 3.5 and its too hard and too tight. Believe oem is 3.5, its not silicone tho so not as sticky and springy. It will be also be interesting to measure the id of your hose.
Ordered (this was some time ago) 4mm silicone hose from mc master carr, works great on the wg barbs. Ended up using it everywhere except the intake manifold barb where i use a 3.5.
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      12-12-2017, 10:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkNemesis View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Gosh, I wish I had this in June when I did mine. I fiddled with the front actuator for a couple of hours trying to get the new line on. I ended up having to whittle out the opening a little in the front part of the line just so I could have a better chance of getting the line on the actuator tube. It worked, but this would be a whole lot easier, thats for sure.
LOL .... I did what you did the first time with the rubber lines.... yeah it took me 2 hours also.
2 second time..... I could not get the new Silicon line to bend as easily as the rubber lines. and it would just miss it's mark. and I was trying from the front also. but by the time you put pressure on the line, ....it slipped....wtf.

So, I decided to learn how not to let it slip off.... then wola.

mweisdorfer I found something when I removed my rubber lines.....you should check this....the line was not in all the way....so....feel the actuator's metal connector and see if your new line is in all the way.
feel the metal connector's bottom...and how far up is the new line?
also if you used Silicone lines, then the wall thickness is bigger.....so you see a point where you can not push any further.

but other than rattle noise reduction, i had huge lag reduction also..... big difference.
I'll check it next time I'm in there. I used the 3.5mm platinum cured silicone lines from Verocious Motorsports. Very nice set of lines.
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