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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY – Water Pump & Thermostat Replacement (2007 335i w/Automatic Transmission)



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      12-08-2013, 03:08 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I know this is a month old, but dude, you have to remove the big splash shield (front belly pan) and then the small plastic shield covering the radiator. The drain in on the radiator either on the driver's side, or both sides depending on what radiator was used to build the car.

There is a DIY for the manual transmission cars done by Eninty a long time ago.
Lol yea, I finished it a long time ago. I actually did end up taking off the intercooler and use the little blue plastic drain plug.
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      12-12-2013, 10:25 AM   #134
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thanks for the DIY, this with the BAVauto diy on youtube got me back on the road in a few hours.
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      12-29-2013, 04:13 AM   #135
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Thanks for the great article, I had no clue that these cars had issues with the waterpump till my went limp on highway. I found this article ordered the parts and everything went in perfect.

You forgot one very important tool! An ipad or tablet to have this DIY pulled up in the garage right beside you.

Great call on the bolts, the part I ordered on ebay came with the 36mm bolts and had to run to dealership to grab another set.
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      01-03-2014, 06:01 PM   #136
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This is the most f'd up way to put a car together I've ever encountered. Every clamp is facing a blind hole where you can't get any kind of tool on them. Did they install the engine to purposely make people want to kill the design engineers? What unholy demon from hell thought this up?
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      01-03-2014, 06:04 PM   #137
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btw, nice write up. It's just in my case the worse case scenario is playing out.
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      01-06-2014, 02:48 AM   #138
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I was able to complete this along with the OFH gasket & washer fluid pump replacement over 3 days. I had to remove the radiator to gain access to one of the thermostat hoses since they were all stuck on. I'm sure having 214k miles on the orig pump and thermostat have something to do with it.
Nice write up and it did definitely help, although I'm still pissed at BMW for their retarded design.
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      01-14-2014, 11:45 AM   #139
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In the middle of doing this, OFH gasket AND valve cover gasket. Approximately 90k miles on my car and all happened within the last few thousand miles. This guide is great but holy crap this car is a pain to work on. One of the clamps on the u-shaped hose on the thermostat is rotated such that I'm not sure how to get to it. I've ordered a very small ratchet that hopefully does the trick but any suggestions?
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      01-15-2014, 06:34 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tys90 View Post
In the middle of doing this, OFH gasket AND valve cover gasket. Approximately 90k miles on my car and all happened within the last few thousand miles. This guide is great but holy crap this car is a pain to work on. One of the clamps on the u-shaped hose on the thermostat is rotated such that I'm not sure how to get to it. I've ordered a very small ratchet that hopefully does the trick but any suggestions?
I had the same clamp issue. The 1/4" ratchet should do the trick though. Just be super patient and keep resting your arms. Don't exhaust yourself. Try getting to the clamp screw from different angles. Small hands and a bit of finesse go a long ways on this job. All the best.
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      01-15-2014, 06:49 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETexas335 View Post
I was able to complete this along with the OFH gasket & washer fluid pump replacement over 3 days. I had to remove the radiator to gain access to one of the thermostat hoses since they were all stuck on. I'm sure having 214k miles on the orig pump and thermostat have something to do with it.
Nice write up and it did definitely help, although I'm still pissed at BMW for their retarded design.
BMW would call it an efficient use of engine compartment space. If there's a hole, fill it with something. Worry about access later.
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      01-15-2014, 11:41 PM   #142
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Good work!
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      01-16-2014, 03:52 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Built My Way View Post
I had the same clamp issue. The 1/4" ratchet should do the trick though. Just be super patient and keep resting your arms. Don't exhaust yourself. Try getting to the clamp screw from different angles. Small hands and a bit of finesse go a long ways on this job. All the best.
The smaller ratchet was the key, sort of. I got the smaller ratchet up in there, started to turn it and the clamp just snapped. Pulled it off and then worked the hose off.

By the way, I would never do this without removing the radiator fan. It's so easy and gives you so much room on the bolts and hoses near the front of the car plus it's easier to remove the thermostat.

If you are doing the oil filter gasket as well, removing the fan is almost a must anyways.
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      01-16-2014, 04:19 PM   #144
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BMW would call it an efficient use of engine compartment space. If there's a hole, fill it with something. Worry about access later.
Yeah, I call it screw the owners that want to do their own maintenance and encourage them to take their cars to the dealership to pay exorbitant prices. Those design engineers should be forced to come to our houses to fix these cars - that would give them a new perspective on packaging design.
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      01-16-2014, 04:22 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tys90 View Post
The smaller ratchet was the key, sort of. I got the smaller ratchet up in there, started to turn it and the clamp just snapped. Pulled it off and then worked the hose off.

By the way, I would never do this without removing the radiator fan. It's so easy and gives you so much room on the bolts and hoses near the front of the car plus it's easier to remove the thermostat.

If you are doing the oil filter gasket as well, removing the fan is almost a must anyways.
I said in my earlier post that I removed the radiator. I meant radiator FAN. I agree, removal is almost manditory to get this job done. Glad you got through it too!
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      01-16-2014, 11:10 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atinybug
Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I know this is a month old, but dude, you have to remove the big splash shield (front belly pan) and then the small plastic shield covering the radiator. The drain in on the radiator either on the driver's side, or both sides depending on what radiator was used to build the car.

There is a DIY for the manual transmission cars done by Eninty a long time ago.
Lol yea, I finished it a long time ago. I actually did end up taking off the intercooler and use the little blue plastic drain plug.
You can just drain it out of the u shaped hose or any of the hoses you disconnect from the wp or tstat. It's messy but This should get almost all of the coolant out. Dropping the IC and draining from the radiator may help get the last little bit out though.
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      01-31-2014, 05:50 PM   #147
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Doing this on the XI is without a doubt a have PITA, it probably would have saved a lot of time and hassle to just drop the subframe like I did for the downpipe's since I know that only takes a minute having done it twice. I couldn't get at the second thermostat bolt good, so I ended up unbolting the water pump to move it forward far enough to get at it.

Ratcheting wrenches and low profile socket drivers really help. I didn't drop the subframe but if I do this again I definitely will.

The tip about getting at the hoses by removing the passenger front tire is also key!
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      02-16-2014, 01:06 AM   #148
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      02-16-2014, 01:07 AM   #149
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      02-16-2014, 08:20 AM   #150
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Thanks for this!
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      02-18-2014, 09:04 AM   #151
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Thanks for the write up. Taking off some of these hoses were like playing games with the Jigsaw killer from the Saw movies. My hands are all cut up...

As people have mentioned, I found it worth the extra time to remove the passenger side wheel well, radiator fan, and intercooler for the extra room.
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      02-24-2014, 04:44 PM   #152
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Thanks for the Guide, it got me and my best friend (the more confidant auto repair guy) through the whole thing.

on the XI you have to remove the passenger heat shield for the boot of the CV axle, and you have to drop the differential protective plate (neither that hard)

Also there is a heater hose (I think for cooling the differential) that runs along the subframe that you have to release or else you can't pull down the swaybar.

None of these extra steps are that bad..

What is bad is that you can not SEE anything at all. The differential, and the CV axle block your view to everything. Everything we did was by touch and feel, barely seeing anything. That is why the clear pictures in the write up and the good BavAuto youtube video helped too.


However let me say if you are thinking of doing this on an XI (or Xdrive), seriously look around for a local guy...

Just hours after I started this I had last local indy get back to me with with a quote of $750 including parts, and I would have jumped at that...instead of wasting my entire Saturday.

Now saying that... I am confident that we could get this done in about 3/4 to half the time if we had to do it again. (6 hours tops if we had to do it again)

Last edited by carypearson; 02-24-2014 at 04:45 PM. Reason: changed ratings
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      03-22-2014, 01:33 AM   #153
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the original post says the thermostat must come out first, however the bavarian video says the water pump must come out first, then the thermostat.

based on what i see, it would sound like the water pump should come out first after disconnecting the hoses and such. I don't see how the thermostat could come out first without any room.
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      03-22-2014, 07:18 AM   #154
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Originally Posted by nukezero View Post
the original post says the thermostat must come out first, however the bavarian video says the water pump must come out first, then the thermostat.

based on what i see, it would sound like the water pump should come out first after disconnecting the hoses and such. I don't see how the thermostat could come out first without any room.
Having a hoist would have made all the difference (ie; better lines of sight and manoeuvrability/leverage) but for me, the order of steps in my DIY just seemed natural. They were based on what I could and couldn’t do at a given moment while working in a cramped space.

I decided that I could get better purchase on the thermostat hoses (especially the two, hard to remove spring type plastic connections) while the thermostat was still secured to the pump. Then by removing the thermostat before dropping the pump, I was able to create a void which allowed me to see better the upper pump bolt and the discharge hose clamp. I suppose I could have tried harder to get to the upper pump bolt with the thermostat still in place. But then again I really didn’t have any problem slipping the thermostat out between the fan housing and vehicle frame.

It’s always good to know that there’s more than one way to skin a cat. I hope that anyone doing the install will read through the procedure, watch the video and decide on what route might be best for them based on their working environment.
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