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      12-14-2012, 01:39 PM   #1
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E92 Coupe Oil change questions

I have a 2012 E92 coupe AT RWD. I've done a great amount of research and this site is very resourceful. I just want to confirm a few things before I purchase the supplies and do it myself:

1) The oil's I have narrowed it down to are either Castrol Syntec 5W-30 and Mobil 0W-40. Either one should be fine as long as they are LL-01. Any specific place I should buy besides autozone or walmart?

2) The oil filter will have 1 big ring, 1 small ring, and a replacement washer for the oil drain plug. Should I be able to purchase this at autozone or walmart?

3) In order to jack up the car, there are 4 jack points as stated in the owner's manual. I should be able to put my jack under one of the 2 points in the front and jack the car up and I should be good? Where would I put my jack stands or I'm assuming they go under the jack points?

Any input is appreciated..
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      12-14-2012, 02:39 PM   #2
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1.I don't know if you will find that oil at those places but yes if under warranty get ll-01.
2. Doubt it. Just get one at a dealer with a coupon or buy one from getbmwparts.com or buy a multipack off amazon.
3. If you jack fits under the center front of the car jack it up from on the central jack point and put the jack stands under the front two jack points. If it does not fit drive the car on two by fours until it is high enough. There is also enough space to drain oil with just one side lifted up.
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      12-14-2012, 02:51 PM   #3
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The easiest I have found is to order oil change kits online from http://getbmwparts.com. BMW OEM (Castrol) oil, filter, O rings, everything you need in one kit, and actually cheaper than most local parts stores. And shipping is free.

[Edit] I see, after posting, TheeGovernor answered these questions pretty well.
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      12-14-2012, 03:04 PM   #4
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Here's a direct link to our Oil Change Kit Specials Page for those interested!

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      12-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #5
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I'm getting ready to attack this in precisely 700 miles.. I know there's different ways of doing this but here's my plan:

1. Parts - picked up 8 qts plus the filter from the dealer. I just like keeping things OEM because there's no reason not to. Total cost - ~$75 without any discounts. Tischer is a good option, they sell everything you'll need at a good price. I believe their oil change kit with 7 qt of the same oil and filter is priced at $76 shipped free. I don't think a brand name oil from Walmart or Autozone with the filter would be much cheaper. Given the assured quality of parts, especially the filter, I would stay OEM..

The official fill volume is 7 qt but I always let the oil drain overnight and every oil change I've done on a Bimmer I've needed more than the prescribed fill to get the right reading. This is the first car without a dipstick I'm changing oil on, so that should be interesting..

2. Jackstand vs. ramp - I use my Rhino ramps and I get plenty clearance. You should consider picking up a pair, they run around $30 last I checked, and definitely worth it if you plan to work on your car(s) a few times a year. I also picked up a nice 5 gal drain pan with a snout and handles from Lowe's on sale for $2.00 during Black Friday - woo hoo!

3. Special tool - the filter cap uses a 86 mm/16 flute tool. My E46 used a standard metric socket, but this car needs a special tool. Picked a generic one off eBay I came across on this forum:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=733678

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370712347942

I just received the tool and it fits fine. I've not really used it, so if you have a couple weeks, I can post a review of the tool (aye/nay)..

Other than that, it should be straightforward. Question for someone more knowledgeable - does this car have an access door in the belly pan for the oil drain plug like the E46s...?
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Last edited by sammk; 12-14-2012 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Corrected price of Tischer kit
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      12-14-2012, 03:14 PM   #6
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Question: Walmart has a 5 qt gallon for $24 bucks, it's 5w-30 Edge Syntec, will this be fine for my car?
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      12-14-2012, 03:15 PM   #7
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OP, I just noticed that your profile mentions 'M3 E92'.. I'm sure you know that if it's an M3 you're doing an oil change on, the oil is are entirely different - not the 5W-30 or 0w-40 you mentioned.. Good luck!
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      12-14-2012, 03:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammk
OP, I just noticed that your profile mentions 'M3 E92'.. I'm sure you know that if it's an M3 you're doing an oil change on, the oil is are entirely different - not the 5W-30 or 0w-40 you mentioned.. Good luck!
Oh sorry, the oil change is for a 335i N55
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      12-14-2012, 03:19 PM   #9
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ok, got it..
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      12-14-2012, 03:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skhmund View Post
Question: Walmart has a 5 qt gallon for $24 bucks, it's 5w-30 Edge Syntec, will this be fine for my car?
Nope.

You ideally want a BMW LL-01 oil. The main four oils readily available in the US that meet this are:

• BMW Branded 5w-30 (at the dealer)
• Castrol Syntec 0w-30
• Castrol Syntec 5w-40
• Mobil 1 0w-40

As you can see NONE of these are the same grades which understandably makes this subject confusing for many people.

Most 5w-30 oils around do not meet the BMW LL-01 oil spec. such as Mobil, Castrol or Valvoline 5w-30.
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      12-14-2012, 03:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CirrusSR22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skhmund View Post
Question: Walmart has a 5 qt gallon for $24 bucks, it's 5w-30 Edge Syntec, will this be fine for my car?
Nope.

You ideally want a BMW LL-01 oil. The main four oils readily available in the US that meet this are:

• BMW Branded 5w-30 (at the dealer)
• Castrol Syntec 0w-30
• Castrol Syntec 5w-40
• Mobil 1 0w-40

As you can see NONE of these are the same grades which understandably makes this subject confusing for many people.

Most 5w-30 oils around do not meet the BMW LL-01 oil spec. such as Mobil, Castrol or Valvoline 5w-30.

What are the consequences of using the Walmart castrol that I'm inquiring about?
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      12-14-2012, 06:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skhmund
Quote:
Originally Posted by CirrusSR22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skhmund View Post
Question: Walmart has a 5 qt gallon for $24 bucks, it's 5w-30 Edge Syntec, will this be fine for my car?
Nope.

You ideally want a BMW LL-01 oil. The main four oils readily available in the US that meet this are:

• BMW Branded 5w-30 (at the dealer)
• Castrol Syntec 0w-30
• Castrol Syntec 5w-40
• Mobil 1 0w-40

As you can see NONE of these are the same grades which understandably makes this subject confusing for many people.

Most 5w-30 oils around do not meet the BMW LL-01 oil spec. such as Mobil, Castrol or Valvoline 5w-30.

What are the consequences of using the Walmart castrol that I'm inquiring about?
Anybody?
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      12-14-2012, 09:31 PM   #13
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If you insist on using it, I definitely would not do a 15,000 mile oil change interval like the car would suggest. I'd probably change it at 5,000 miles. I'd also think twice about beating on the car too hard.

If this was a non-turbo engine like the M54 or N52 I'd say don't worry too much. Just dont track it or drive it ar Autobahn-like speeds. But being a turbo car you probably want to stick with the tougher LL-01 oils.
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      12-14-2012, 10:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammk View Post
I'm getting ready to attack this in precisely 700 miles.. I know there's different ways of doing this but here's my plan:

1. Parts - picked up 8 qts plus the filter from the dealer. I just like keeping things OEM because there's no reason not to. Total cost - ~$75 without any discounts. Tischer is a good option, they sell everything you'll need at a good price. I believe their oil change kit with 7 qt of the same oil and filter is priced at $76 shipped free. I don't think a brand name oil from Walmart or Autozone with the filter would be much cheaper. Given the assured quality of parts, especially the filter, I would stay OEM..

The official fill volume is 7 qt but I always let the oil drain overnight and every oil change I've done on a Bimmer I've needed more than the prescribed fill to get the right reading. This is the first car without a dipstick I'm changing oil on, so that should be interesting..

2. Jackstand vs. ramp - I use my Rhino ramps and I get plenty clearance. You should consider picking up a pair, they run around $30 last I checked, and definitely worth it if you plan to work on your car(s) a few times a year. I also picked up a nice 5 gal drain pan with a snout and handles from Lowe's on sale for $2.00 during Black Friday - woo hoo!

3. Special tool - the filter cap uses a 86 mm/16 flute tool. My E46 used a standard metric socket, but this car needs a special tool. Picked a generic one off eBay I came across on this forum:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=733678

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370712347942

I just received the tool and it fits fine. I've not really used it, so if you have a couple weeks, I can post a review of the tool (aye/nay)..

Other than that, it should be straightforward. Question for someone more knowledgeable - does this car have an access door in the belly pan for the oil drain plug like the E46s...?
I find it interesting that it's $76 for the materials, yet the dealership I went to charges $57.95 (does not include M or diesels). Wondering if they actually do the work, I put a mark on the filter cap, and declined a loaner and watched from a glass window. The SA told me they make zero on the oil change, but it gets customers through the door which is what they're looking for.

I have the Assenmacher wrench, the MANN filter, and the oil. But at $57.95, I'll keep letting the dealer do it.
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      12-14-2012, 10:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CirrusSR22
If you insist on using it, I definitely would not do a 15,000 mile oil change interval like the car would suggest. I'd probably change it at 5,000 miles. I'd also think twice about beating on the car too hard.

If this was a non-turbo engine like the M54 or N52 I'd say don't worry too much. Just dont track it or drive it ar Autobahn-like speeds. But being a turbo car you probably want to stick with the tougher LL-01 oils.
The car is my DD, I do not plan on tracking ever for I am no professional driver. I am a grand tourer so to speak. I don't drive her too hard.
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      12-14-2012, 10:33 PM   #16
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The effect of any particular oil on your engine is really hard to quantify. The oil debate is one that always generates dozens of pages of discussion, because everyone has their opinions about oil. In the end there's no real black/white answer to be honest.

There's a number of failure modes for oil. Time at temperature is the most important one. Shear stress is another. Granted, any oil that meets the official spec should work in the car. But since the OE oil is what was used in the development and validation of my car in the design stage, and I know it has the right physical properties and additive package to work with the rest of the engine system and materials, I stick with OEM.

I have zero experience with the oil brand/type you are mentioned, so I cannot offer up any comments. You might be ok, especially given your duty cycle seems to be fairly mild/medium. Then again, if the oil degrades quickly, you will start to see increased wear of bearing surfaces and sludge formation. But at a minimum, I would pick something that BMW recommends:

http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Conte...ngineOils.aspx

Anything that doesn't meet this, I would be leery about.

On a different note, have you thought about the filter? If you plan to stick to the normal ~15k mi interval, remember that you will be taking a huge risk with a filter that's not OE, or made by one of the OE suppliers (Mahle, Hengst etc.). The filter element gets the full pressure of oil and sees sustained temperatures over 100C long-term when you're driving. The filter element is also designed carefully to trap particles above a certain size. Aftermarket filters may not perform the same way for longevity or filtration. I've seen a lot of paper elements torn or crushed that I would hate to have inside my engine. So pick the right filter that's known to reliably work in your car..
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      12-14-2012, 10:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John 070 View Post
I find it interesting that it's $76 for the materials, yet the dealership I went to charges $57.95 (does not include M or diesels). Wondering if they actually do the work, I put a mark on the filter cap, and declined a loaner and watched from a glass window. The SA told me they make zero on the oil change, but it gets customers through the door which is what they're looking for.

I have the Assenmacher wrench, the MANN filter, and the oil. But at $57.95, I'll keep letting the dealer do it.
That's pretty incredible! I've never seen dealer oil service prices that low - could you post the name and location of your dealer..? Would be good to know.. At that price, there's no incentive to DIY, except to be close to the car and its mechanicals..
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      12-14-2012, 10:47 PM   #18
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at $57.95, I'll keep letting the dealer do it.
No sht. For that price I'd be there too even if they didn't allow loaners. Reminds me of a few years back when I had a 4runner and the dealer near my office did oil+filter for $22. Simply wasn't worth bothering with doing it myself at that price.

It gets people in the door where they can look at all the pretty new cars, plus its a great opportunity for the "oh while I'm here, I'll have them fix..." additional work. Also, and I could be wrong about this at BMW shops, but shop oil is usually bulk and thus somewhat cheaper than the individually packaged quarts.

I'd probably still double check the drain bolt... I wouldn't expect they'd have their top mechanics working the $58 oil changes....
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      12-15-2012, 08:13 AM   #19
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You get free oil changes at the dealer
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      12-15-2012, 08:46 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammk View Post
I'm getting ready to attack this in precisely 700 miles.. I know there's different ways of doing this but here's my plan:

1. Parts - picked up 8 qts plus the filter from the dealer. I just like keeping things OEM because there's no reason not to. Total cost - ~$75 without any discounts. Tischer is a good option, they sell everything you'll need at a good price. I believe their oil change kit with 7 qt of the same oil and filter is priced at $76 shipped free. I don't think a brand name oil from Walmart or Autozone with the filter would be much cheaper. Given the assured quality of parts, especially the filter, I would stay OEM..

The official fill volume is 7 qt but I always let the oil drain overnight and every oil change I've done on a Bimmer I've needed more than the prescribed fill to get the right reading. This is the first car without a dipstick I'm changing oil on, so that should be interesting..

2. Jackstand vs. ramp - I use my Rhino ramps and I get plenty clearance. You should consider picking up a pair, they run around $30 last I checked, and definitely worth it if you plan to work on your car(s) a few times a year. I also picked up a nice 5 gal drain pan with a snout and handles from Lowe's on sale for $2.00 during Black Friday - woo hoo!

3. Special tool - the filter cap uses a 86 mm/16 flute tool. My E46 used a standard metric socket, but this car needs a special tool. Picked a generic one off eBay I came across on this forum:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=733678

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370712347942

I just received the tool and it fits fine. I've not really used it, so if you have a couple weeks, I can post a review of the tool (aye/nay)..

Other than that, it should be straightforward. Question for someone more knowledgeable - does this car have an access door in the belly pan for the oil drain plug like the E46s...?
Dude, the engine holds 7 quarts of oil. Letting it drain for 20 minutes, 2 hours, or 30 days is not going to get any more oil out of the engine than what is already in there when you start to drain it.

Don't rely on the E-dipstick to give you the same level of precision that a mechanical dipstick does. The E-dipstick does not work on the same principle as a mechanical dipstick. Drain the oil, change the filter (suck out the small amount of residual oil in the filter housing), and add 7 quarts of oil. No more or no less. You are thinking about it waaaaay to hard.
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      12-15-2012, 09:26 AM   #21
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Dude, the engine holds 7 quarts of oil. Letting it drain for 20 minutes, 2 hours, or 30 days is not going to get any more oil out of the engine than what is already in there when you start to drain it.

Don't rely on the E-dipstick to give you the same level of precision that a mechanical dipstick does. The E-dipstick does not work on the same principle as a mechanical dipstick. Drain the oil, change the filter (suck out the small amount of residual oil in the filter housing), and add 7 quarts of oil. No more or no less. You are thinking about it waaaaay to hard.
Yep agreed, it's really as simple as that and there's nothing more to it. The extra qt is only if the display reads below the max mark. But actually, the volume of oil that drains out does depend on a number of factors like the oil/engine temp, inclination (ramp vs no ramp), whether or not the filter is pulled first, and of course duration. 95% of the oil will drain out in the first few mins but I have a tried and tested way of doing this which I will stick to, thank you!
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      12-15-2012, 09:58 AM   #22
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Question: Walmart has a 5 qt gallon for $24 bucks, it's 5w-30 Edge Syntec, will this be fine for my car?
Maybe you should go to the dollar store and see if they have some oil. You bought a BMW not a Honda, if you are that cheap trade it in a get a HONDA.
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